Mudge

The suggested back space is 1/2 rim width + .5"

Maybe I am confused. As for the OEM T56 trans mount, its pretty much the same as the one offered by JTR, other than being 'ribbed' stamped steel instead of flat stock, although of course the floor boards wont be as durable in the 240 car.

Tim, wasn't your mount like thier automatic trans mount?

I dont know of anyone running past 7k or so on the LS1 (PCM can take it to 8500!), but I do know of 470 RWHP LS1 cars (heads/cam/program). When Tunercat finally has something to offer instead of $550 LS1 Edit, then we have something that I will really be interested in. 6.0L truck LS1 heads are also capable of LS6 flow numbers, comparing a ported head to ported head. When you rip into the heads and start welding, I have heard of 360cfm or thereabouts on LS6 heads. Not very difficult to get a streetable 650 HP out of one of these cars, its f'ing ridiculous, and yes I'm jealous 8)

Ferrari F50, no rubber/poly bushings anywhere, made for MEN With some horsepower the rear will flex enough that you will get to enjoy the 'clunk clunk' sounds they made. Poly flexes, you can sure bet rubber does, that stuff compresses in your hands!

Formula, he used a mount similar to the automatic mount IIRC

Yes, considerably cheaper internals, another disadvantage to the LS1. Yes I know for a fact it weighs less, find the numbers online via search. The front end of an LS1 car versus an aluminum head/intake LT1 is about 65 pounds less, and there are basically no other differences between the two cars as for the front suspension. An aluminum block is going to weigh less than cast iron, no science there. The intake, also more weight removed, the LT1 aluminum intake is a bit large and is around 30 pounds, plastic is obviously significantly less. These cars can pull about 390-400 RWHP with NO head work and a 222/230 cam. That beats the LT1 by a fat margin. It took a semi-large cam to get my ported head LT1 to pull 411. Due to cost, as well as them being relatively new engines, I can't see rebuilding an LS1 at all unless I was throwing in rings/bearings.

Of course its less, all aluminum block, heads, and a plastic intake Your not just buying roller lifters for an old block either, that is going to cost more in machining as well. I assume that the LS1s have less lobe lift and more rocker ratio to avoid lifter float, again another advantage. Plus on a small scale it means less rotating mass for the cam, probably not much of an issue although at high RPM it will reduce cam torsion. I'll bet they can improve ramping profile as well! Making it run probably similar to a solid. Ok, now lets add up cost of 15º heads that will flow like no f'ing tomorow, cost of fabricating a polyplastic intake that will match the heads and flow like an LS1 or LS6 intake if you wish (2000 or 2001 cars get LS6 intake also). No matter how you work things if you can find a used LS1/T56 setup for $3000-$3500 you are getting one heck of a deal, its still out of my price range though.

I have a big HSF (fan is a Delta 38, LOUD) but dont overclock the CPU on my Athlon 1800 (got it free during the San Fran AMD Giveaway). I do overclock my GF3 Ti200 though, I have a Pentium HS on it (large), and 80cfm worth of air going over it. It also has blue RAM sinks (stock), but since RAM doesn't get that warm I think that is more computer nerd bling bling than functionality Before this "free" system, I had a Duron 600@927 with Golden Orb HSF, not the greatest but when the Duron was new it was about the only HSF out there that belonged on a socket A system.

Wow, I bet her insurance company probably had a price on her head after that, ouch!

Good article

Exaust ports are small, a 1 5/8" or larger header will easily be larger than the exaust port, there is no massaging needed at all. In fact you really dont want to TOUCH the exaust ports, there is no gasket matching etc, it would be a mistake to do so. On my ported heads I made 411 RW and did nothing to the exaust outlet, any porting needs to be done in the bowl/chamber etc unless it was an ALL out high RPM racer, in which case you wouldn't be using stock LT1 castings anyway The only issue I can see is making sure the gasket has enough beef to not blow out or let the exaust leak, but hey, copper RTV is great!

Ok, yeah if you want under 20# most cast American wheels are not for you. I have heard of rizer wheels in 7.5" weighing as much, or more than the big American cast wheels, that is lame. If you found a good set of reasonable price light wheels, go for it. They dont come with a dual bolt pattern?

Yep, my 82 ZXT is a BEACH to push compared to the 240, it feels like a pig in comparison, almost as bad as pushing my 94 Z28.

To do this legally you must carry everything over from the donor car, and have it certified, but yes it can be done.

The only thing I can think of, is that most of the Import wheels are about price and looks, not performance, so they are often heavy and I dont know how strong they are. Apperantly with the 5 bolt conversion Stang wheels are the way to go, 17x8" or 17x9" therefore could be used, the 9" wide is in question as far as true clearance, but it would allow use of a 275 wide tire if one so desired, and for me, I want rubber under the car. There are all kinds of options though, I haven't sat down to put it all on paper, because I have engine stuff to deal with right now...

Rollin hard LoL If you dont know how to mod your engine, slap some stickers and flashing lights on the car.

Member boards, eBay, Junkyards

I am aware of a 4.3L Astro Van suggested aluminum radiator, if thats what you mean(?) I row the boat, I would keep the 6 speed, automatics are not my flavor. With that in mind you will need the JTR setup, as the shifter will be too far forward with the Scarab/Hooker etc setups, which work fine for automatics but are not going to work with T5/T56 cars. I have read about people having to figure out the clutch issue, but I am not up to snuff on how people are getting these in the cars 100% If you payed $2500 for the whole setup that is not all that bad, I have seen cheaper but honestly if your stuff is in good shape people have also spent more. $1500-$2000 for a T56 and clutch setup by itself would make me wet the bed, but brand new they are over $3000! If you got an LS1/T56 the programming is more expensive, and to boot they run $3500 fairly often for engine/trans, way out of my range. Astro Van was a 6, not sure there was an 8. There is a 12 second turbo Chrysler mini van, so while heavy a mini van could still bennefit from power, especially if they tow stuff. You wont see me dumping money in a mini van, but some people either want more towing power, need to replace the engine anyway maybe, or even like the 12 second van he wanted a sleeper with wife and kids in tow to shock people with. It worked Oh, for the Z, try to get mostly rust free and straight body/doors. Other than that, I can't say a whole lot. I like the 72-73 cars myself, but some prefer the later 280 cars which are heavier and have a stronger body. As a rule for me (in CA especially, smog laws etc) I want 70-73, but 72-73 more up my alley, with 73 being preferable of them all.

I have a Type R sticker on my toilet, I dump faster than before, took .7 seconds off my time slip! I also heard a 2.5" exaust and a boost-a-fan on my computer will pull an extra 73MHz. Then I'm going to slap in a neon setup and hit the SETI race circuit.

I dont think I've seen a silver one yet. I have also seen a black F355 years ago in downtown SF. I really dont see many exotics all that often though, a Viper is a sighting for me. There is a Viper GTS (blue/white stripes) in San Mateo that I used to see often when I worked down there around 5 years ago. I hardly ever spot a Ferrari, and up until a few months ago I had NEVER seen a real Lambo on the streets. I have seen 2 kit cars (short) in Daly City though together, must have been family or buddies.

Thats why your not really supposed to change just one thing when you want to change AF on a carb, you change the linearity of how it operates if you just change one thing. Soft spots, etc will occur. If there were no need to put smaller jets in a carb, then people wouldn't sell them. My gas mileage improved 25%+, so in my eyes it worked. Not as well as I hoped, but I didn't want to dump over a hundred bucks into a set of carbs when I could have had SUs. If I had known that I'd end up with 20-22 MPG and spend $70+ then I would have just gotten SUs anyway.

Yep, apperantly I am #7 poster there, not sure if thats good or not I would go with an R200 myself, if you do the whole R200 upgrade almost everything is beefier versus an R180. If you are going to put slicks on it this is more critical than if you were running street tires (and what size). Otherwise the R180 would probably hold its own without problems. Then if you feel like going for a limited slip option down the road, save up for it in the meanwhile, most ways of getting a limited slip are anywhere from maybe $300-$1600 or thereabouts, there is viscous, clutch pack (like a stock Camaro), or automatic torque bias (like a good Torsen) LSDs (worm gears not clutch packs). The viscous stuff is relatively "cheap", you could even consider a viscous R230 from I believe an Infinity Q45 (and others). These use CV joints though, so they are not a straight plug in operation. Anything with an R200 however wether CV joints or not, can accept R200 splined shafts and half shalfts from a non CV jointed R200. So your R180 that is probably in your car now should be fine with street use IMO, once you want to put the power down with big wheels and/or slicks, I would look at an upgrade. Keep a cage upgrade firmly in mind too, old cars even first gen Camaros dont take well to alot of power, twists the body. I would believe most of the books you would find on Z cars would talk about suspension tech a bit, but mostly you'd find engine stuff, so I would bet you wouldn't find much other than on the net, about rear ends for these cars. If you want a long term, neat idea, you can run a shortened C4 rear! I thought about it myself, but it would require fabrication, and for my power levels I wont really need it. The weak point of the R200 etc is going to be halfshafts, not really the rear itself. FYI the C4 automatic has a smaller rear. http://home.cfl.rr.com/scottiegnz/gnz.html C4 rear and GN drivetrain http://www.fastassdatsun.com custom boxed frame, C4 front/rear

Modern day OEM retard, works by dropping (no spark) spark to a cylinder or two at a time for 50-100 RPM approximately to kill power. Some dont like this for a boosted app, so maybe it works differently? Since it would use the dizzy (?), then it could detect what position the crank is at and just retard timing by actually retarding it, instead of taking it away. This would be like a crank position sensor or cam position sensor, which the ZXT cars and probably ZX cars have. It would have to have a MAP sensor to detect boost, unless it uses RPM to determine when to drop spark.

For road racing or straightline? Stiff sidewall for cornering (short), sloppy for drag (tall).