[MegaSquirt - Nylon screws]

My car has been down since I think February, you know I'm flat out, amused

[EFI wiring harness plugs????]

Did you actually break one off the ECU or is there corrosion of some kind?

 

I swear I have seen similar females, but can't say I've seen males like that.

[MSD even worth hooking up?]

If it will accept a pulse it might work, but I am not sure that anyone has ever gotten an MSD to work on the turbo cars.

[MegaSquirt - Nylon screws]

Illiteracy sucks doesn't it.

 

LMB EAS-300 case - you can purchase the case from HdB Electronics (650-368-1388) in single unit quantities. Your choice of natural aluminum or black anodized. This is where the Group Buy orders for the case were placed.

Or you can get the EAS-300 Enclosure [style 4006 - 4.124" x 1.582" x 6" w/ heavy radiused (H) ends] at: http://enclosuresandcases.com/sbspecpage.html

You might also try Fry's, they have one that measured 6 x 4.17 x 1.56. It costs $15.95.

 

Nylon Screws - 4/40 - Digi-Key P/N H550-ND - 0.0926ea. & Nylon Nuts - 4/40 - P/N H616-ND - 0.105ea. You need 6 of each, but there is a 100 minimum quantity for each from Digi-Key. You can try locally, look for them in hooby shops that sell radio control hardware. You CAN substitute steel screw hardware. Just be careful with the plastic FETs, make sure the metal screws do not cut the plastic and short things out. For the flyback transistor and the voltage regulator there is no worries - the only thing you may want to do afterwards is put a dab of fingernail polish or similar on the screw/nut interface to help prevent them backing off due to vibration.

 

LED mounting clips - Digi-Key P/N 4304MC-ND - 0.08ea. You need 3, but there is a 100 minimum from Digi-Key - try locally.

 

Cable - You will also need a 'straight-through' DB-9 cable to connect MegaSquirt to your computer for set-up and tuning. Digi-Key sells suitable cables:

 

AE1020-ND is 6.5 feet long (2 meters) annd sells for $5.35,

AE1021-ND is 9.8 feet long (3 meters) for $6.01.

Either will work, or you can pick one up locally. Look for a VGA computer monitor cable.

Sockets - If you are new to electronics assembly, you may want to solder in sockets for all the chips. The kit includes a socket for the 40-pin CPU. To socket the others you will need:

 

AE7216-ND ($0.72) for the MAX232 (U6)

AE7208-ND ($0.35) for the MC34151 (U7)

AE7300-ND ($0.43) for the 4N25 (U4)

The sockets allow you to correct your mistake if you install an IC backwards, and also prevent too much heat from transfering to the IC while soldering.

[Is the '81 Turbo EFI really all that bad?]

The main thing is just the timing chain slacking over time, causing timing changes.

[anyone used this DIY MBC]

LoL, I may try this, just need a boost gauge.

[Hybrid Human]

The record for surviving on water is over 400 days, 411 I believe.

 

http://www.falconblanco.com/health/alimentation/sun/manekji.htm

 

http://niejedzenie.pl/hiraratanmanek.htm

 

http://niejedzenie.pl/HiraRatanManek-raport.htm

[MegaSquirt assembly Problems]

Everytime I try to post on the Yahoo forum, it kicks me out saying that my email is bouncing!!

 

Tim, you have to ren-enable your Yahoo email addy, it sends you another confirmation email thingy. I just use the webby interface anyway, dont like the digest emails, and individual is madness.

 

http://groups.yahoo.com

[Street & Performance problem!!!!!!!!!!]

Al seems like an A-OK guy, I only know him on the LT1 Edit list when I used to be on.

[Got my computer back.......FINALLY!]

Yes you can get them at AutoZone, ask for either LT1 specific or ask for a D port SBC gasket. If they dont have it they can probably get it in a day or two from another store. I like the Fel Pro 1406 I believe it is, for the LT1.

[MegaSquirt assembly Problems]

Only thing I can think of is making sure the COM port is really COM1 and not taken up by a mouse? That the COM is enabled and that any IR on the laptop is disabled (this can be a problem for Tunercat users). But I think I saw in an earlier post you did the Hyperterm test...

 

Side question, is anyone going to put inline resistors so the stock computer (controlling the timing) "sees" the injectors and doesn't blow something out? My new injectors I believe are 3.4OHM each so I still have to figure out MegaSquirt wiring for those anyway...

[MegaSquirt - Nylon screws]

I was going to use computer case standoffs and screws if I couldn't find any

 

I'll send a PM - err an email, and I can send you a buck or two.

[fan blades on 240z turbo]

Moby, I had to shave my fan, but using the 240 pulley woulda coulda shoulda worked too, didn't have time to pull it though.

 

I thought I was using my 240Z fan too, maybe I didn't, hmm.

[Coefficient of Drag for Many Veh's]

.34 is actually pretty darn respectable, although larger cars nowdays (Camaro) can achieve the same number with more frontal area, but better aero.

 

C5 Vette without the brake ducting is .29

[HEI in a 74 260?]

I would say use the balast resistor with it, otherwise people at least fry the coil it seems in short periods. My 240 had HEI...

[MegaSquirt - Nylon screws]

Just finished assembling the power supply portion, there are nylon screws supposed to be used through the voltage regulator (step 18), and yet I dont see any - anywhere.

 

Tim/anyone did you get these and did it come with the voltage regulator, or do I have to hunt these down at Rat Shack?

[Dyno results!]

Big torque, very nice.

[280ZX performance start]

Get a turbo engine to throw in, or get a smog exempt platform to work with.

 

Your "other" option is to stick a V8 in there with all the smog equipment from the donor vehicle, and stick with a mild cam.

[Megasquirt/Megaspark]

Sounds good, I have the Ford EDIS stuff but would not mind something easier to deal with.

[Anyone using MegaSquirt on L6-Turbo?]

I have the Ford EDIS stuff waiting for Megajolt Lite, but am going to try to retain the stock computer also for ign, which works great from what I can tell.

[i need your guy's advice: i need to toast a turbo supra]

Dont forget rubber out back, 300+ HP wont do you any good on 14x6" wheels.

[cool pic of cross flow head, and more]

Also, you can move the exaust to the other side avoiding heat soak on the intake side of things.

[Help on 280zxt swap into 240z]

Pull the engine, pull the wiring - in tact. If its going into a 240 you need the wiring behind the dash as well, not just the mini-EFI portion. Pull the relays that are in the wiring, the fuse box as well. You will need to cut either some wiring at the relay box in the inner fender, or your going to need a saw to cut the body up a bit to enlarge the holes not only in the fender but through the firewall to pull the goods through.

 

Plan to spend 3 hours to a full day working on getting the harness out.

 

You also need of course the computer (drivers kickpanel), coil and coil bracket (has a transistor on it), and either grab the fuel pump or plan to get another EFI style pump down the road sometime.

[Obviously, this isn't Snell approved]

If you run over a 15 usually no helmet is required LoL, maybe hes slow.

[Anyone using MegaSquirt on L6-Turbo?]

I got all my stuff yesterday, no idea as to a completion date and knowing my luck I'm not going to venture a guess.

 

Tim, what is your plan as for a signal to the MS, off the distributor itself - or off the ign signal? Are you going to run the stock distributor/computer setup for ign?