Mudge

I've read that this was probably due to improper backlash settings on the rear gear. Basically I have a severe grinding sensation/noise from the rear end, but obviously this vibration/feeling is transmitting to the transmission also. Mostly on deceleration I have gear whine, but if I take it up to 5k or so quickly the noise and vibration both are pretty bad. I am fairly certain that the gears are not stock, but I haven't checked yet, due to the RPMs on the freeway though (if the tach is accurate) then I know its definately not stock. Transmission is an early 5 speed...

Well, besides figuring the struts are not up to the task of the springs, I also find out that the springs themselves are bottoming out on their own coils, take a look: http://docmudge.tripod.com/Z_struts/struts.html Any suggestions as to how to fix this? Should I cut a couple coils? Even with good strut inserts the spring is going to be bottoming out on itself from time to time, and this is not a good thing at high speeds... Since the springs are blue I'm guessing they are Suspension Techniques or maybe Tokico, anyone know? STs I have on the other car are blue...

Here are some vids of Chris Chow's car, for the terminally bored http://www.fasttrackperformance.com/page5/video_customerrides.html

With that much $$$ in the engine, its time to get that suspension fixed! 600HP will get a 3400# car into the mid 10s with slicks.

I took it out of a 77 that was a race car. 77-78 MT (3.545) (R200) 77-78 AT (3.545) (R180)

They'll learn? I doubt it, they just turn off at the next exit and pretend they dont even see you

Drifting actually will overheat the tires, and is not the fast way around the track.

Gee Whiz, Chris' is pretty close to stock weight, of course its caged and he has a chute, the rear also has stock suspension mount points, and his tires are a bit old last I saw of them. I have no idea what injectors are on the beast though. He's got enough power that when we tried to organize a dyno day, he couldn't come, becuase the dyno only went to about 1250 HP safely Back in the day alot of people somehow thought that the GNs were 30 MPG and 12 second miracle machines

Those are both heads(???)

280ZX 79 MT 4 Spd, (3.364) (R180) 79 MT 5 Spd, (3.364) (R180) 79 AT (3.545) (R180) 280ZX 2+2 79 MT 4 Spd, (3.364) (R200) 79 MT 5 Spd, (3.7) (R200) According to: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm

Front STRUTS correct? I also see different part numbers for the 300ZX fronts, so I'm assuming this is a left/right thing, can you list the part numbers your using? Since these are for a much heavier car, I am assuming/hoping that they will handle aggressive springs without issue

10.4:1 with 7cc valve reliefs on LT1 cars, deck height of the LT1 block is .025 and stock chamber is about 60cc, gasket is .046", I do recall taking off .010 brought me to 58cc chamber. http://docmudge.tripod.com/Tuning/compressionratiocalc.xls Converting Gen II heads for Gen I block has been done, but the thread I've seen on it has been deleted. Ask in Advanced Tech on CamaroZ28.com , someone can hopefully post the article which details the conversion. Gen I heads likewise can be put on an LT1 block.

Scotti, I likewise thought they sounded huge, but it is a 6 not an 8, and he knows his GNs a billion times better than I do so I can't say much about it. I have no idea what the duty cycles at idle look like, but again, he knows more than I do in this regard. However he said the old time rumors of 30 MPG 11/12 second GNs is all BS.

So far as I know, all these cars are unibody.

8.51 at 162 is Chris' best, his daily driver has 75# injectors and DFI and is a 12 second car, and does not get good MPG either.

I'd go CCW way before HRE, complete set of custom wheels $1600, plenty strong and very light.

The turbo car will weigh a bit more, but I would say the 81 is closer to 2700-2800, 3300? That is more like a 3rd gen car, and the 350Z which is in the 3300 range. Beefier body, smog crap, bumpers, it all adds up.

I plan to run a cooler as well, the stock pump is already what I'd call high pressure in regards to other cars.

Lotus was key in designing it, it was actually built however by an American company, I could dig through my emails for the company name it has "Marine" in the title, they build boat engines as I recall.

I would do it myself, that way you can spend time to clean up and de-rust the car, instead of just throwing something in there that will twist the hell out of the car and make things worse. Plus, the day I spend $1000 for someone else to do work for me, is the day I'm celebrating my 70th birthday.

There is a local GN guy with 1680 HP V8, he has an engine plate too, I think his best run for now is a 9.1 @ 156 or so, no traction.

Don't see why not How much are you planning to pay? I am going to try to hunt down pricing myself, they are almost $70 from MSA.

Anyone know what the tube size is for the MSA rear STB? Is it 1" or larger?

They went OBD II in 1996 (GM), SOME of the California cars had dual cats in 1995, if they were automatics, however they were still OBD I with OBD II diagnostics ports (odd isn't it). OBD I is cheaper to program, and logging programs are free (for GM), I used Tunercat and Freescan to tune my setup, OBD II is alot more money, since Tunercat doesn't yet have a setup, but I was told this spring, if there is no delay. Otherwise LT1 Edit is $550 for OBD II, and the licensing is friendlier with Tunercat.

I heard Asiatech will not be making engines for any F1 teams this year, due to the 100 HP more the other engines are making.