Mudge

I tried it for a couple weeks, I could never find what I want, but I like obscure music.

Len, "back in the day" it was $25k, it was not that long ago that it dropped to 15k.

http://www.caro.net/sully/8sec/

I dont see why it would not be ME compabible, no reason at all it shouldn't I use KaZaA LITE, no spyware/junk/spam etc

Yeah, coming down, but still not worth it

http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=12&t=001011#000003

Jeff, whats the status?

I assume its an 8" wide wheel? If it were a 9" and 23 pounds or less I'd go for it. Fake 3 peices though, blech. I want a little styling, but functionality and lack of fake addons, why add weight to the damn thing putting dress up crap on there.

Most road racers actually do not lower the car all that much, especially if your going to be on street tires, full on wide race tires can handle more spring, so if you wanted to lower it aggressively you could do so I suppose. A guy I know who open road races, and road races, and instructs and yes AutoX too, lowered one car about half an inch and the other about an inch only. Someone else on another board who also road races, likewise said lowering is overrated. I still like it, to some extent, just dont go nuts with it, thats one big plus of coil overs

L28 short block with no head/flywheel/carbs/intake is 228, so it can't be 450 fully assembled I weighed it after I carried it up to my 2nd floor apartment, 4 flights of stairs, so there is no way its that heavy, even though it sure feels like it.

Personally, I'd want high pressure stock volume, but it depends what your doing with the car. High RPM use with high volume will just empty the pan, no good.

1995 GM cars aren't OBD II, but if Ford was OBD II in 95 I'll take your word for it

I've heard of as low as 2200ish for a 70-71, but advertised weight is about 2340. Some parts of the body are beefier in 72+, so 72-73 weigh more by a small degree. The rear end location was changed slightly in 72+ also, there was a wear issue in 70-71 that this solved. With that in mind, I wanted to find a 72+, a few extra pounds are not a huge deal. If you really really wanted a light weight car there are other platforms, I've heard of 1700 pounds 510s (race ready), but hey, were already pretty damn light. They eventually progress to about 2700 pounds in 1983, now 400/500 pounds becomes a big friggin difference to me, and 2700 isn't that much lighter than a 3000 pound car with 400-500 HP which I could have had with an American car, plus the early years are smog exempt and I like the body style better...

Yep, they look nice, but how much do they weigh, and are they real 3 peice or fake.

Sounds familiar, redhead kid?

Unfortunately, it says you have to have a login http://home.hpphoto.com/sessions/13906838731/14815577lg.jpg

They probably dont cost too much nowdays, I remember seeing them as low as 15k but I'm sure they are less than that by now. The added weight of DOHC though, the added size, and the lack of power, as well as the expense, just makes it seem like the only reason to do it is wow factor but not for any practicality (not that having 405 HP is practical). I know years ago Tim Allen had a nice LT5 in an Impy, but thats a guy with alot of money, and it was years ago. If I really had that kind of dough I'd go LS6, or maybe even something nicer, but I'm a Chevy guy for the most part and the stuff is 'cheap' to work with compared to a BMW engine or etc.

Gas is about 6 pounds per gallon, for those that care

Well, if the O2 is dead then its dead, and if that be the case it could be staying in open loop on that side, or running extremely rich even beyond 10/11.0:1 which is already pig rich. This could also cause a huge split BLM, again the engine wont like this, since one side is making xx power, and the other is running like a dog, the whole wheelworks will be thrown out of whack. Replace the $35 O2 sensor and see how it works!

Interesting, but majorly expensive to mod. I'd go LS1 over LT5 any day, back in 1990 the LT5 was 'badass' for a Chevy, but that was a long time ago engineering wise. But, if you wanna you wanna

Its obvious at many points he is talking out of his a$$, so it was probably a budget rebuild if anything and he is just stuck

http://www.240z.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1292 I question to some extent which is right, there is a site which shows higher compression readings, however I wouldn't be supprised if the website author forgot the gasket in his math, especially since none is listed.

Just over 400 RWHP with a 244/244 solid roller, stock heads, stock bottom, and a rich tune on a 93 Camaro

If there is a way to use vented rotors on a 240Z I'd like to know about it, if it requires 4 piston conversion it'll have to wait. One big problem with totally solid rotors is warpage, a 2 peice is better in this area.

Sag, I went through the same thing. Thought I found a deal, and the seller fell asleep on the deal, and eventually I found something else that fit the bill. It kinda sucks, but its a watch and wait game, if you jump on something that is not 100% what you want, you will probably kick yourself later.