GabeRoc

1) the LSx harness is almost standalone as it would come from a donor vehicle. check out http://www.ls1tech for details. treating the engine as a standalone system and splicing control and gauge wires seems to be the easiest way to go. if you use an LSx you will need to get the computer reprogramed. 2) in the early z's the bracket is the same for auto and stick, to convert you just need to get a clutch pedal and it *should* bolt right in. other than that an aftermarket clutch of the proper bore will complete the switch. 3) the T5 and the T56 both fit right in. from what i have seen the front mounted sump on the GTO will not fit into the z's engine bay without extensive modification. 4 &5) i have no experince with this. do a search. there is *lots* on information on this topic. 6) the LSx does not mount the same as the 1st gen SBC. i fabed my own mounts from steel stock and mounted another crossmember behind the stock one to mount the engine. it was not too difficult and i'm very pleased with them. 7) in my installation i did not relocate the A/C compressor nor the alternator. because of this my engine is mounted a couple of inches higher than the john's cars kit and i had to remove the stock mounting towers, but i don't have the oil pan ground clearance issue. i have arround 1 inch of clearance on each side of the engine at the A/C compressor and at the alternator. other than that, there are no real sapce issues that i ran into. hope this helps. and you'll hear it 100 (if not a 1000) times, SEARCH! there is nary a question that has not been covered at least twice. --gabe

i just ran the numbers at 60 mph with .5 OD 185-75-R14 tires: 3.36 rear 1359 rpm 3.54 rear 1432 rpm 3.7 rear 1497 rpm 225-50-16 tires: 3.36 rear 1363 rpm 3.54 rear 1436 rpm 3.7 rear 1501 rpm so, if the tach and the speedo were just slightly off then 1500 at 65 with 3.7 would be right. then there is the question of do you read the top of the needle or the bottom of the needle... anyway, gabe

i was talking to roger at the zbarn about a 240z front bumper for my '73, and he recomended that i get knoxville custom chrome (the local custom chrome shop) to straighten my current bumper, weld up all the holes and give it fresh chorme. if they can fix my bumper (which roger says they can with no trouble) and do it for arround the $150 roger says they charge him, i don't see why you couldn't get a less-than-perfect 240 bumper and have them weld mounts that will match the 280z brackets while they are straightening and chroming. this method would result in a bumper that looked completely stock. --gabe

i just got my LS1, trans and such from houston to knoxville via USF holland for $200. as far as picking it up at the terminal with USF it saves the $45 dollar residential delivery charge. --gabe

the spitting and sputtering is not something i can help with until more information about the current state of the motor is known. the Fuel Presure Regulator is a metal barrel with a vacume line connected too it located amid the fuel rail assembly. --gabe

you know, i have a set of light weight lug nuts that will reduce the moment of inertia of his wheel/tires. should be good for about 50 RPM at 70MPH. i'll let them go for a song. --gabe

i have never tried that picture application but i have used irfanview for about the past 5 years and it works great. it opens almost any file extension, does batch conversions for size, file type and some color correction. you can use it to make screen savers, do slide shows, and a lot of other things. best of all it doesn't change anything in the registery, is a small quick program and is 100% free. anyway, that's enough about that, and i'm sorry tim for pushing annother program in your thread. i just get excited sometimes.... http://www.irfanview.com/ --gabe

Blueovalz, yeah. 60*60=3600 not 360. nice catch. naplesZ, the question is not how far the thing moves, but how far it goes from the time it touches the thing it hits and it stops. for instance: if you were to shoot a gun into a block of wood, the distance measured would be how far the bullet went into the wood. from that information you could get the average force applied by the bullet to the block of wood. this is not to say that you would get the largest force, nor that the average would be what you needed to design for, but it is at least a number to start with. there are other considerations as well, but maybe this will get you started. --gabe

might i ask what this question is in relation to? depending on what information you are looking for you may actually be looking for energy transfered (as terry suggested) rather than force at impact. if you want to find the force at impact, convert your velocity to FPS (in your case 658*5280/360) find the energy of the item (.5*m*v^2) then divide that by the distance the item travels while transfering the energy. be sure to use feet for distance, slugs for mass. this also assumes that the item doing the striking is much smaller than the item being struck. if you'll let us know a little more about what specific case you are dealing with i'd say that an answer with less vaugeness could be had. --gabe

i have had this problem twice with my '81zx. both times i had a bad FPR. both times the car had sat for a couple of weeks since it's last start. both times i had all the symptoms you describe. if you have a fuel pressure gauge, i'd check the pressure directly and see if it is with in spec. with the bad FPR the only way my car would run for any length of time was to unplug the cylinder head temperature switch. with the temp sensor disconnected it car would idle, but not drive. just my .02 USD --gabe

in maryville Tn we have the zbarn, he has arround 400 z's in his yard.

what do you guys think? i have '73 240z that i have shaved the drip rails, rear bumper and side lights and i'm looking at a caribbean sea blue for the paint. my friend who is helping me with the sanding and such has told me that a modern metalic paint (with the small flecks) would help to hide small imperfections in the body. from what i have read here the s30 tends to look better in a bright solid (non-metalic) color than fleck paint. we will be spending a lot of time sanding and filling the body to make the panels as straight and smooth as possible, but i'm fairly certian it won't be perfect. so what do you think? would i be better off putting down metal fleck paint to help hid minor imperfections or live with the slight waves and put down a solid color a mile deep? i realize this a kind of an opinion based question but i was hoping that someone might be able to enlighten me or give me annother thought as to what to do. Thanks, --gabe

i'll go ahead and give annother for the lincoln 135 with gas. i have done everything on my z with one, including sub frame connectors, and it has worked flawlessly. my .02USD --gabe

http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=326384&page=1&pp=20 the first link doesn't work any more but read through the posts. here it is Google Cache worth the laugh. trust me. -gabe

not quite.... but i'll try to sketch it here in ascii Car Chassis | +--+ | | Normally closed relay energised when key switch in 'on' position +--+ (when energised relay is open) | | +--+ | B | Buzzer +--+ |* +---|<|-- to wire that is hot when lights are on | (Diode) +---|<|---to wire that is hot when other buzz is desired with key 'off' (Diode) so, if the key is in the 'on' position (presumably the car is running then) there is no buzzer because the buzzer is not grounded. (in retrospect, you could place the relay at the * and have the same effect, but i decided to make my diagram consistant with my first post) but if the key is not in the 'on' position and the lights are on, it buzzes. (you could also put the door switch at the * and the buzzer would only operate while the door was open and the key was not in the 'on' position) the lowest line is there to show how one could add additional items to the buzzer. hope this is clearer, gabe edit: grrrrrr the board keeps removing the extra spaces i put in to make things clearer. oh well, i'll just work arround that.

while i have not done this, i belive the easiest way to do it would be to splice a wire to the hot side of whatever it is you wish to connect to your dinger (in this case the headlights) with a diode (to prevent back feeding to from other ding devices if you were going to have more than one device ding) and run that to the + terminal of the dinger. then run the ground for the dinger through a normally closed relay that is energised by the key switch in the "run" position. basicly this would prevent the dinger from dinging while the car was running (or at least while the switch was in the "run" position) by ungrounding the circuit. perhaps this will prompt you with a good idea. gabe

http://www.kumhousa.com/News/News2005.asp#may06 check out the vid at the bottom of the article, it's neato. --gabe

the clutch should be hydraulic and self adjusting. on the up side, it takes just about as long to jack the car up to a sutable height as it does to remove the transmission. --gabe

why? what direct benifit does a fuel cell have over, say, the stock tank in this situation?

i have a '73 240z and i'm wanting to remove the rear bumper but i don't want to leave the fuel tank completely unprotected. i found this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=73947 but all the pics are defunct and it's a little old. i was thinking of just bending a piece of 1.5" steel tube and welding it to the rear subframe behind the valence. does anyone have any insights or pics of how they dealt with this issue? thanks, -gabe

is it a reverse threaded nut? just something to think about... --gabe

http://www.skippyslist.com/skippylist.html personal favorite: #61. If one soldier has a 2nd Lt bar on his uniform, and I have an E-4 on mine It means he outranks me. It does not mean “I have been promoted three more times than youâ€.

IIRC, diesels are better for the enviroment than gas engines. the real issue with diesels, and the reason they are not more widely used, has to do with what people want to buy. as it has been mentioned few people are willing to pay the cost in comfort to have a high MPG car. simmilarly, few people are willing to deal with the noise, smaller RPM band and waiting that long minute in the winter for glow plugs to do their thing in the name of a 'cleaner' enviroment. -gabe

Q: why does a blonde have one more brain cell than a horse? A: so she won't crap in the street during a parade.

i seriously doubt you have the expertise to make this statement... I currently have a set of stock size firehawks on my zx and I’m pretty happy with them. Decent ride' date=' reasonable handling, good stopping, ect. for a daily driver anyway. [/color'] As to the original question about raised white letters, I think they look really good on the 14†rims. Give that ‘old school’ look and feel to the car. --gabe