GabeRoc

i only get him when i have server-side internet issues.

http://www.wired.com/news/culture/0,1284,65392,00.html

he got a really nice pattern on that shot...

I got one better than that. The Red Cross comes around about twice a semester for blood drives. I was doing my civic duty and going to let them bleed me for the sick and injured. Anyone that has given blood knows that you have to fill out a question sheet that asks about prior sickness, diseases, how many times you’ve paid for sex with other men, you know basic stuff. One of the questions referenced time out of the country and I was confused by the wording. As I had recently gone to visit a friend at Oxford University in the UK, I wanted to be sure I answered accurately. So I asked the nurse doing my platelet count, “I went to Oxford to visit a friend for 10 days, do I mark this question yes or no?” The nurse asked me “where’s Oxford?” so I told her “It’s in England.” To which she responded, “Where’s England?” The only thing that ran through my head at that moment was “I’m going to let someone just like you stick me with something sharp and drain my life blood into a plastic bag.” So, it would appear you don’t even need to know where England is to become a nurse. Scary.

i have had similar trouble with the float seat leaking. starts and runs ok, but shortly after stopping (and in some extreem cases while slowing down to stop) the engine coughs and dies. car hard to start afterwards, and in many cases wouldn't start until it has 'dried out' for 10 minutes or so. other things (than specks on the float seat) that might cause over fueling of this sort are high fuel presure, a bent/worn float tab or a worn seat/needle. best of luck! gabe

is there a manual trans that bolts up to the Q45 v8? i have a good in on an early one, but i don't want to buy a motor that i can't fit a transmission to. if there isn't a trans that is a direct bolt up, is there one that can be modified?

woah... what are you trying to do there tim? if you are wanting to turn the full DVD into a cd then the VCD is the way to go. however, if you are wanting to publish to the web a section (or the whole thing) you might want to consider using divX. http://www.divx.com basicly it's a very compact, high quality compresion codec widely used to distribute video. as for upside down and backwards.... um, yeah... i got nothing. gabe

i've had a problem like this twice on my '81 n/a. both times it was a bad fuel presure regulater. something else to check is the cylinder head temperature sensor. just above the starter, should be a two wire connector. it is just a thermistor, but it is what the ecu uses to adjust the injectors for cold engine. if there is too much resistance (e.g. corroded, unpluged, ect..) the ecu reads that it is a really, really cold engine and pours fuel into the intake. if you unplug the thermistor and the car will idle rough but not run, take annother look at the fuel presure regulater. also, a bit of a duh statement, but one that i wish i had thought of more than once, make sure the rubber boot between the air meter and the intake manifold is secure and not leaking. hope you figure it out and let us know what the problem was. gabe

judging from the visable flywheel, i'd say that was your bell housing. what did you hit?

you know, my buddy tuff mentioned the same thing.. i still don't see any camels...

http://www.this-wonderful-life.com/gallery.htm i really don't know what to say other than "wow."

After every Qantas Airlines flight, pilots complete a gripe sheet which conveys to the mechanics problems encountered with the aircraft during the flight that need repair or correction. The form used is a piece of paper on which the pilot completes the top part listing the problem, which the mechanics read and then respond in writing on the lower half of the form what remedial action was taken, so the pilot on the next flight of that plane can review the form before taking off. Never let it be said that ground crews and engineers lack a sense of humour. Here are some actual logged maintenance complaints and responses P =the problem logged by the pilot, S = the solution and action taken by engineers. P: Left inside main tire almost needs replacement. S: Almost replaced left inside main tire. P: Test flight OK, except auto-land very rough, S: Auto-land not installed on this aircraft. P: Something loose in cockpit. S: Something tightened in cockpit. P: Dead bugs on windshield. S: Live bugs on back order. P: Autopilot in altitude hold mode produces a 200 feet per minute descent S: Cannot reproduce problem on ground. P: Evidence of leak on right main landing gear. S: Evidence removed. P: DME volume unbelievably loud. S: DME volume set to more believable level P: Friction locks cause throttle levers to stick. S: That's what they're there for. P: IFF inoperative. S: IFF always inoperative in OFF mode. P: Suspected crack in windshield. S: Suspect you're right. P: Number 3 engine missing. S: Engine found on right wing after brief search. P: Aircraft handles funny. S: Aircraft warned to straighten up, fly right and be serious. P: Target radar hums. S: Reprogrammed target radar with lyrics. P: Mouse in cockpit S: Cat installed.

Well, i am an engineer... (not that this means I know anything in and of its self) and I do have some limited experience with gear-style LSD. The specific LSD that I worked with was torsens 'university special' a scaled version of their standard diff for application in formula SAE race cars. I was assigned the task of figuring out how it worked. After a lot of "how does this work" we came to a basic understanding and differences in different differential types. So far blueovalz got closest to the understanding I have of the geared differentials. Basically it works off mechanical advantage, as levers do, but instead of giving advantage to a direct load (a force) it gives advantage to a torque (a force * distance). In an open diff when a drive wheel is pushing a car down the road the torque (force*distance) of the wheel is being countered by the friction of the road against the tire times the distance from the road to the center of the wheel. So long as there is not going to be any slipping of the tire with respect to the road the torque being applied to each wheel will be basically the same. If there is slipping due to more torque than the friction of the tire can handle (ye 'ol burn out) or the friction force is reduced by lightening the load being carried by the tire (inner wheel lift in a corner) then because the torque being applied to the wheels must stay the same (in a slipping state, close to zero) and one wheel has almost zero torque being applied to it (the spinning one) the other wheel has almost no torque to drive. Summary: you get one wheel spinning and go nowhere. Clutched LSD basically gives a fixed advantage to the non-free spinning wheel equal to the torque the clutches can withstand without slipping. So, for example lets say I have a clutched LSD where the clutches can hold 80ft*lbs before they slip. That means that if I lift a wheel off the ground the other wheel will have up to 80ft*lbs driving it forward. Similarly, if during a burnout the grabbing power of my tires does not differ by more than 80ft*lbs (or should I say the friction forces times the distance from the road to the center of the tire does not differ by more than 80ft*lbs) both wheels will spin at the same speed. Another way of saying this is it takes 80ft*lbs to spin one wheel with respect to the other. This also means that to some extent clutched LSD works like a solid axle in turns. Now, in geared LSD you end up with a torque advantage. Some numbers I saw earlier were bias ratio (or as I have called it torque advantage) of 3.50 this mean that 3.50 *times* as much torque can be applied to one wheel as the other. This means that if you lift a wheel off the ground (a zero torque situation) the other wheel will have 3.50*0 ft*lbs of torque, 0ft*lbs, being applied to it. However, so long as you have *some* torque being applied to the less grabbing wheel the grabbier wheel will have up to 3.50 times that much torque being applied to it. However, unlike clutched LSD, there is not a torque required to spin one wheel with respect to the other. This means that the wheels can spin freely with respect to each other and still have more torque applied to one wheel than the other. As for where the friction comes from for the geared LSD to create it?s bias, it isn?t a question of friction, it?s a question of mechanical advantage. Unlike clutched LSD there is no main friction surface, the normal gear friction is multiplied in the gear set to obtain the advantage. As for which is better? it depends on application. If you are going to have a wheel coming off the ground under load (which means you have suspension troubles IMHO) then clutched LSD is the ticket. If you?re not then there are advantages to the open-diff like features of the geared LSD. --gabe

i'm not sure quite what you mean. all the gears are in their proper locations, it's just that the what is second gear would be better suited as first, ect. but assuming that's what you ment, you think this is a 200sx transmission? do they have the same case/mounts/driveshaft? the claim is that this was a fully assembled unit shiped from someone that knows what they are doing. hoping for some clarity, gabe

I have been fighting with a transmission for about a year now, it started as a preemptive rebuild. tranny was making a bit of noise and I didn't want any trouble. I pulled it, had it rebuilt and put it back in. about 2 months later I started the car, went for reverse and the shifter moved to neutral but the transmission stayed in first gear. That sucked. So I pulled the trans back out and had them "fix" the problem. I put it back, about 2 months later.... same thing. So I pulled it out again. This time they had it for about a month, and they claimed they were very complete and careful. Moreover than just going through the transmission, they rebuilt a different core. And did that transmission even perform wonderfully, for all of 5 days. On the morning of the 5th day my transmission rested, stuck in first gear, again. I was over it, so I took the whole car to a transmission shop that had been recommended to me and they re-rebuilt my transmission. This blazing failure lasted for 7 days. The problem, you guessed it, stuck in first gear. So I took it back, had some words with the owner, and left for a 10-day vacation. When I got back the shop told me that the transmission was defective, and they bought me a remanufactured transmission and put it in at no cost to me. Happy day. I picked the car up today and noticed that the gear ratios are all messed up. Oh, did I mention they broke my speedometer? First gear tops out about 10 mph. I have a 280zx with a bulldog gear; I'm going to be the envy of all my friends. Second gear is basically like what first gear should be, 3rd a little shy of what second should be, 4th acts just a bit taller than what 3rd used to be, and 5th results in around 4250 rpm at 75 MPH. Does anyone have any idea what transmission I have in this thing? It?s a 1981 280zx n/a 2+2. Well, sorry about the length of that rant, i just needed to tell my story. Any ideas as to what tranny I have would be great. Thanks, gabe

can those little hoses on the ends of the injectors be replaced? i have an '81 n/a and today as i was checking my oil durring fill-up i noticed that i had a leak where the hose meets the fuel rail on 3 injectors. now if i were not a poor engineering college student, i'd just go buy 3 injectors, but as it is the cheapest i have found them for is arround $40 each. do you know how long i can eat of $120? let me tell you, ramen noodles are cheap. i was going to try and find a place to replace the hoses, but i wanted to see if this can be done before i went door knocking. as an aside, is there any reason to not buy the cheapest injectors i can find? i think advance was where i saw them cheapest. thanks, Gabe

i have had a similar problem with my 81 n/a. it sat for about a month and a half while i rebuild the transmission and when i got the tranny back, it ran rough, dieing at idle after about 20 seconds, and over a period of about 2 days stopped running at all. my problem was that my fuel presure regulator was FUBAR. that's the only suggestion i can offer, hope it helps. gabe

yeah, i've got all the grounds connected and tight. the issue isn't getting the starter to engage, but rather the problem is that when the temp sensor is connected it just wont start. with the sensor connected i've checked spark and for pulsing at the injectors, both are fine as far as i can tell. my haynes manual suggested that the sensor might be the problem, and it seems to be part of the problem. the real problem is i don't know enough to know what having dificulties with the sensor means. what does the computer do as the car gets warmer? why would disconnecting this sensor allow my Z to run? (poorly though it may be) and does anyone have any idea what i can do to fix it?

i have a stock '81 zx n/a and if i connect the cylinder head temp sensor, the engine dies and won't restart. with the sensor unpluged, the car will idle roughly, but to get the engine to rev requires pumping the gas pedal. the car ran fine before i removed the tranny and had it rebuilt. so either having it sit for about a month, or bumping something seems to be the most likly cause. any ideas as to what would cause this problem? i've already replace the sensor, but to no avial. the input to the sensor is running about 12V with the car running, and if i check resistance (allow any current to go to ground) the car dies. the return lead from the sensor is connected to ground. suggestion?

i realize this is a bit late, but i just found this site. as too the problems reported, i agree that it's fuel starvation, my guess is that the return spring on the mechanical pump has lost it's spring and the lever is just "floating" at those high rpm's. i have heard of this problem on other cars. anywho, i'm off to see what i can learn about my new '81 280zx N/A on this site.