GabeRoc

isn't the aids virus too small to be stopped by condoms?

might i suggest as step one that you learn to use the 'new' features of this board - the search function. every question you asked has been answered more than once in the forums. search some, learn what is basic, then ask questions about the finer points. do this and not only will you like this forum, the forum will like you too. --gabe

i was at knox generator today, so i asked the head tech there this very question. he said that #2 should be connected to the hot side, with out a switch. (then he pointed out it would be easier to just use the one wire regulator) as he has rebuilt, tested and installed more alternators than i will ever see (he looked to be ~50) i take his word to be gospel in this matter. -Gabe

here in tennessee we hang signs that say "trespassers will be will be shot. Survivors will be shot agian." Gabe

well, my last message did keep you from double posting this time, so the end justifies the means. as for this questions you most likely have a Delco ST10 or ST12 alernator. http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm wiring should be the same for the ST12 gabe

links are dead for me.

why not just move the cat somewhere it can't be seen? while your at it do the same with the car ;p

firstly, dont' double post. bad kitty. second, you might have killed your battery. was is stone dead or just not enough to start the car? before you do anything else i would get a charge on th battery. next i would touch my idle just a shave, if a small increase in idle brings the volts back up,you might just be idling too low.

i sit corrected

*sets down popcorn* awww, c'mon. the fireworks were just about to start

i don't think there are any states with 9 character licence plates. clever, but photoshopped.

no

chemicalblue, i think you have asked a good question. it is doubtful, regarless of gearing, that a 10 hp car would go 100 mph. it problem is that the power your engine produces needs to overcome the resistance of the air arround you, and the amount of power needed for that gets quite large at high speeds, even for very aerodynamic vehicles. wind resistance is a function of geometry (how aerodynamic something is) and velocity squared, so if you double speed you quadruple resistance. the generic equation is x*V^2 where x is a constant based on geometry (the smaller x, the more aerodynamic) and V is velocity. this resistance is a force, so to move the car a distance requires energy (force* distance). the faster you go, the more energy required per second. energy per unit time is, of course, power. so the power required to maintain a certian speed is x*V^2 (the force agianst the car) times V (the speed at which the car is going) or x*V^3. so as speed increases it starts taking a lot of engine power to maintain speed, not leaving much power for accleration.

personally i would drop the transmission before i dropped the front diff. you've already got the hard part done (unbolting it from the engine). it really shouldn't take more than about 30 minutes to get th transmission to a place where you can get the motor in place. my .02

where did you find this? i tried searching for it and got nothing...

i wish i could get a thermo-dynamic motor. the performace out of my thermo-static one is terrible, people pass my like i'm standing still.

a dyno measures the force being applied to the drum and the rotational speed of the drum. this gives the torque applied to the drum and the horsepower at the drum. this horsepower number *must* be equal to the value the engine is producing at that instant (if transmission losses due to friction ect. is taken into account) if the dyno power number (and hence the engine power number) is divided by the engine speed, engine torque is found. for those more mathmaticaly wired power is conserved: engine_torque*engine_speed=wheel_torque*wheel_speed=power wheel_torque*wheel_speed/engine_speed=engine_torque hope this is clearer

how do you know that the injectors arn't recieving a signal? this is a pretty standard diagnosis and repair kind of problem. if you are certian that the injectors are not recieving a signal i would follow the injectors wires back, check for ground, look for shorts, insure the ECU fuse is good, check the ECU harness and be sure it is seated. inspect some more wires. i would also check fuel presure (no, a visable fuel leak does not constitute a fuel presure check). give a summary of what you have checked, how you checked it and what exactly was the result. a car that has sat for 5 years could have any number of problems. statments like "there is no signal being sent to them" aren't half as useful as statments like "i hooked up a voltage tester to the injector harness set the tester to *insert voltage range* stuck a probe into each of the injector contacts and had a friend turn the car over while i looked for the needle to move, it never did"

no and no. energy (power) cannot be created or destroyed, your engine is producing a certian amount of power and gearing can only alter the how much torque (or conversely what rotating speed) is being applied to the wheels at the expense of speed (or in the converse case, torque). the dyno would record a higher torque number in 2nd gear from the drum and a lower drum speed. net power is the same. (assuming that the transmission has the same effeciency in 2nd as it does in 4th). in short, NO MATTER WHAT you do torque*rotating_speed = constant.

what do you mean the injectors won't work? is there no signal getting to the injectors? are they refusing to open? are they not open enough to spray fuel? in short, what about the injectors isn't working?

The force on the drum is the torque being applied. So the dyno multiplies rear wheel torque by rear wheel speed and gets rear wheel HP. then you divide by the engine speed (aka RPM data) and vola'! engine torque at the wheels. so the dyno does measure torque, but not engine torque. (I guess that you could measure front wheel torque and speed if your car was wrong wheel drive ) Dan, you are completely correct. power is work/time. I was trying to avoid unnecessary complexity by assuming the wheels were turning and not diving into instantaneous power. I felt that my explanation got the point across without clouding the issue with technicalities. It is very possible that I did not succeed in my attempt to keep it simple while maintaining an adequate representation of the facts. Regardless, I probably should have included a disclaimer that I was trying to use layman’s terms. And you get an amen to torque not telling the whole story. 8) Bastaad525, you will want to shift such that the most power is sent to the wheels. Assuming your gears are spaced 1000 rpm apart, stay between about 3700 and 4700. You want the most power going to the wheels, let the gears worry about torque. Notice you are better off shifting a bit late than a bit early because the HP stays higher a little past 4700 than it does a little before 3700. hope that is less confusing and more correct. gabe

let me try my hand at this First. Torque has to do with acceleration. Basically torque is a force for something that is rotating. Torque at the wheels (read: taking into account all gearing) is converted into a linear force and hence an acceleration because f=ma (yay physics!) now, in all truth instantaneous acceleration has little to do with final speed. In order for speed to increase significantly torque (a force) must be applied over a period of time (making power). Energy cannot be created or destroyed according to the first law of thermo, so in order for a car to posses kinetic energy, that energy has to come from somewhere. Kinetic energy is 1/2*mass*velocity^2. So, if I want to obtain a certain velocity in a certain period of time, (say 100+ mph in under 12 seconds) there is going to be a minimum power per second I *have* to produce to obtain that velocity. So torque at the wheels is what you feel pushing you back into your seat but it is horsepower that allows you to reach a certain speed in a certain amount of time. gearing becomes very importiant at this point because good gearing allows the maximum energy transfer from the motor (HP) to the car (kinetic energy) in a given period of time. No, because one car (the one at a higher RPM) will be traveling almost twice as fast as the other. Now, if you were to fix the gearing so that in a certain gear both cars had the same speed with one car running 4000 RPM and the other 7000 RPM, then yes. They should be accelerating at the same rate. What is interesting is that if the gearing were set as I have outlined, the torque at the wheels for both cars would be the same. It has to be for them to accelerate at the same rate.

i don't know, i think these costumes are in a league of their own.. http://www.thestranger.com/current/special.html man, how i wish i had seen this before halloween was over. i would have taken my little bros trick or treating for sure!

i wouldn't do it. with that much weight behind you and the little weight a z has under you, jack-knifing will be a big problem. not just in braking either, any turn at speed will become a serious knife hazzard. don't go totaling your z over a boat!