GabeRoc

where did you get that carb hat? i'm looking for something like that for my dad. Thanks,

well, darn. It's very nice.

Not to derail this topic too much, but what front spoiler is that? MSA? Thanks,

http://www.engadget.com/2006/06/18/usb-teddy-bear-holds-data-scares-children/

it looks to me like there would only be 4 intake, 4 exhaust and 4 plugs per side, or 8 total. it seems to have functional zones similar to what a rotary has where all the intake, combustion and exhausting takes place in localized zones. what i don't get is how they keep the back 'piston' from moving durring combustion. also, if i'm seeing it correctly, there are 4 'power strokes' occuring at the same time, an interesting force and vibration problem. I don't buy their "this doesnt' reciprocate, the pistons only stop" argument. if it stops it might as well change directions, the accelerations are about the same either way.

If I put better warnings on things how would I trick you into watching them? Besides, if I said how cool it was I'd be inviting people to disagree with me.

I had forgotten about the car shows and such that happen here all the time. I think that happens more in knoxville than in chattinooga, but they are only 90 minutes appart, so the drive isn't bad. houses are pleantiful so finding one shouldn't be too hard.

well, Dr. Hunt, i don't know why you were checking out convent store girls but i assure you that there are plenty of good looking girls in Tennessee. on to mikes question(s) about Chattanooga... >car scene? >anything to do? there is a car scene and there are things to do, but they won't be a large or as pervasive as Houston (that's where you're from right?) or FL. so if you have to have 10^5 people who trick out cars, or dance clubs on every corner then you won't find it in Chattanooga, Knoxville or Nashville to be up to par. Nashville will have the largest car scene and best clubs, it's about 90 minutes from downtown chatt. there are some very nice, fast cars around, and lot of them are built by their owners. >cheap to live? generally yes. nice 2 br apts are in the $600-700 range most places. everyone i know from FL comments on how much cheaper it is to live here. i found a bit of a deal, i pay 575 for a 3 br house and have 2 roommates in an older neighborhood good in Knoxville. >nice area? Tennessee is beautiful. there are rivers, mountains and woods everywhere. as far as safe, most of Tennessee is pretty safe, and the people are friendly. there is a large redneck population, i think Dr. Hunt found some of them, but they won't bother you if you dont' bother them. >good place to find work? I think so. there aren't very many (maybe one or two) good preform ace shops in Knoxville and there are lots of personally owned garages. I don't' know the details of Chattanooga, but Knoxville, Chattanooga and Nashville are fairly similar as far as i can tell. --gabe

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=8372603330420559198 it's a bit long, but the coolest new game concept i've ever seen. sound required.

scottie is on the right track with the ford soleniod. a friend of mine had an F-body that had the same trouble. we shorted out the started mounted solenoid and used the ford in it's place. it was a 15 minute job once the car cooled. his car never had heat soak problems agian. check with some of the 3rd gen F-body people, they know the drill and can explain it a lot better than i can with 2 years of rust on how it worked.

lunar, I am to the point where i need to clamp my boots down, but i can't find Oetiker Clamps in the proper size. where did you get yours? it seems that they need to be ~108mm for the large ones and ~40mm for the small ones, no one here seems to be able to find them. Thanks, gaberoc

very cool robot.

I'll third the IrfanView. for resizing and other such changes it has a neat batch convert feature.

the water isn't really an issue. Reverse Osmosis will very cheaply produce distilled quality water, but for his application i think softened water would be sufficient. Small softeners are also inexpensive and could be made portable with ease.

for a high quality, high end, DMM all the electricians i know swear by fluke. i noticed sears sells fluke products, so there shouldn't be any kind of avalibilty issue. fluke also has a really nice compair feature on their webpage here. from looking at that, it seems the 78 or 88V would be great for the automotive repair person and do-it-yourselfer. looking at them, i really dont' see any great advantage of one over the other. personally, i tend to use this $5 one i borrowed from my brother that he got from harbor freight. works well enough for me to get my LS1 running. and if i drop it, step on it or otherwise kill it, i can get annother one for like $5. 'course, those flukes do have a lifetime warranty... my $.02, -gabe

i'll second that. --gabe

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7149287543794226851 i wonder how many times he has rolled learning how to do that. --gabe

if the cost of the johns cars kit is making you sweat (as it did me) let it be known that you don't need to buy it. i was able to fab mounts similar to the ones mark made (though not as pretty) in less than a day, in a barn, with only a bandsaw and a lincon 110v welder. by cutting the stock mounting towers off you can leave the alternator and A/C compressor in stock locations and for not too much money have the engine with full accessories mounted in a z. do what you will, but don't let the cost of a ready made kit keep you from what you want. --gabe

i'd be all about it. --gabe

in a diesel engine the fuel is not put into the cylinder until the compression cycle. this is different for gas motors (yes, even fuel inject ones) where the fuel-air mixture is drawn in together during the intake stroke. so, for diesel operation the simple answer is that they don't inject the fuel until just after the peak. the following is (a little) more about how the diesel engine operates. more written so i can avoid studying for my fluids test in the morning. in a diesel engine, as mentioned before, the fuel in injected at the peak of the compression stroke. let me break this down by stroke. during the intake stroke, fresh air is drawn into the cylinder. as the piston moves up the bore, compressing the air charge, the change in pressure causes the air to increase in temperature. (remember pv=nrt) so that at the peak of the compression stroke the temperature of the air exceeds the flash point of diesel fuel. the fuel is injected to the hot air charge and it begins to burn (yes, burn, not explode, like our friend gasoline). as the fuel burns the increase in pressure causes the piston to travel down the power stroke... ya da ya da exhaust stroke. some interesting points to note: *the more air the hotter the air charge and quicker the burn, so more air= good. *there is no such thing as running a diesel lean, power is controlled by altering the amount of fuel injected into the cylinder. with the exception of forced induction or dynamic effects, the air charge is the same at idle as it is at full power. well, i suppose it's time for me to get back to the books... --gabe

the short answer is yes. pv=RT will give you what you want. p= absolute pressure R= R-bar/M R-bar=universal gas constant=8.314 KJ/Kmol*K M= molecular wight of air=28.97 kg/kmol T=absolute temp the long answer is that you are going to have to make sure your units work out. as it is currently 1:23am, i'm not going to do that for you. hope this helps, --gabe

yeah it is... you know i can find anything i'm looking for with google but i can't find *anything* i search for here. it's like i have some kind of weird hybrid z curse that lets me know what i need, but completely impotent when it comes to finding it. thanks for the info guys, --gabe

having a little trouble finding driveshaft parts.... i have installed the Q45 diff into my 240z and i am currently trying to get a drive shaft made. i have been to every custom driveshaft company in knoxville and they all have the same problem - they cannot find the flange that fits the Q45 diff. one place found what should have worked from a company in Cali, but the part was back ordered and they said it may never be restocked. what did those of you with the Q45 diff use for drive shaft flanges? part numbers, company names, WAG's... anything would be helpful at this point. thanks, --gabe

where was this offer 6 months ago? i was looking for just what you have, a straight, no body work chassis. i ended up with what looked like a straight, no rust body but turned out to be anything but. now, 6 months of sandblasting, welding, filler and paint later i have a decent looking car that should be good for several years. oh well, such is life. --gabe