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SSuspect

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Everything posted by SSuspect

  1. Hi all... I did a few searches and found some basic info, but can anybody post a few pics of the transmission tunnel mods that they had to do to clear a 4L60e? I know that the mounts need to come off, but I am unclear of the area(s) that need some "massaging" with a hammer. From what I have been told and have read, the 240's might need a little bit of additional work vs. later cars. I would like to do what I can to avoid stabbing the engine into the car more than once or twice before I bolt it all up in a few weeks. The engine compartment has fresh paint on it and I don't want to risk banging anything up. Any pics and info would be very appreciated. Thank you! Tim
  2. Interesting that this thread was brought back to life just in time for me to do my swap. I installed a new 3 core aluminum w/dual fans for the L6, but have never "really" run it. Maybe up to temperature 5-6 times since the L6 was installed. Fans kick on at about 195 and immediately drops to 175-180 within about 2-3 minutes. It is a "Champion" radiator. "So far", this had been a great option. Seems very well built and the fans pull about 7 amps each. This unit bolted into the factory points PERFECTLY! I did not have to do ANYTHING to the car! I am really wondering how it will do for the looming LT1 swap. Since it is a 3 core, I am hoping it will be fine. My main concern is the quality of the fans themselves! I WILL be paying attention to this! It is basically this setup: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Row-Aluminum-1970-1971-1972-1973-Datsun-240z-Radiator-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb22aa1c6QQitemZ200557633990QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Does anybody have a similar setup? Any input? Thanks! Tim
  3. Thanks for the tips! I knew that the factory trans mount goes away, but have heard different info on the tunnel. I have an array of hammers available! Thank you! The paint on there is actually just a plastic primer and most will come off prior to finish texture and color. I still need to apply the SEM Texture finish and final color coat (gray - entire interior is changing to gray). Here is a link to the thread showing the repair process info over on the "Classic Z Forum"... Very good results for several people so far. I am happy with the progress! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?23919-Dash-Repair-Process-Pictures
  4. Hi all... I have decided to "Jump In" and see what happens... I just sold the brand new L6 setup in my 240z and am jumping into the V8 swap club. This was "slightly" difficult choice since I was so close and the L6 drivetrain was all brand new and VERY nice! But, this was the long term plan anyway and I decided not to spend any more on the L6 setup just to have to do it all over again. Quick summary of progress to date... - New front suspension - All powdercoated or painted. New ST springs, Tokico blues, bushings, ball joints and tie rods. - Rear Suspension - Freshly built R200 w/3:90's. All powdercoated or painted. New ST springs, Tokico blues, bushings, RT Diff mount, etc. - Rear disc conversion complete. All stainless lines and new 15/16" master cylinder. - Interior - Dash restoration in progress. New carpet kit, Prelude seats, nice audio system to install. Should be NICE! What I have to put into the car... - 1994 LT1 w/mild build. Stock bottom end, mild comp cam & Beehive's, light port/polish. 15k total on engine - Hughes performance 4L60e - SOLID transmission! - Precision Industries 3k stall - 2001 Z28 fuel tank - ready to go - Almost all "engine and trans" based items - Harness, pcm, mounts, etc. Still need a few small things What else to get... - JTR kit - will order on Monday! - Headers. Not sure if I will get coated or stainless - Roll bar - just looking for a street bar of some sort initally Next steps... - Rip out current drivetrain - will be done by next weekend! - Get everything for LT1 and other misc parts powdercoated - within 2 weeks - Bolt in new engine/trans - 4-5 weeks out... - Finish dash refurbishment and install Then, I will keep going on the body work. ZG's are going on the car. I hope to have this car running by the end of June. Painted and on the road by the end of July or mid-August. We'll see... A few pics of progress to date. It is coming along well. The white on the dash is plastic primer. Will be gone and covered with SEM texture finish. You will see me around this forum a LOT more going forward! Thanks, Tim
  5. FYI - Not trying the be a smartass here, but it is a front air "dam" and we also need to know what kind of car this is for. These parts are different between 240/260Z's and 280Z's.
  6. Hi Joe, If nothing works out, let me know. I have a couple of sets of black 240 door panels. One set is in very good condition and the other is in good shape. I can make you a deal on them. They are sitting in my garage and getting in my way! Thanks, Tim
  7. SSuspect

    OIL PAN

    PM sent. I have a couple of pans. Not sure which support brackets you are referring to though...
  8. Here is an option for $62... http://www.zcarsource.com/content/p/9/pid/63772/catid/8057_8531/Windshield_Weatherstrip_70_78_Coupe_New_Aftermarket
  9. Hey Mota Z - If the other one does not work out, let me know. I have one and will just need to dig it out of my stash of goodies... Thanks, Tim
  10. Thank you Larry! This is helpful. Do you know how all of the various pieces on the top of the tank were managed? Any of the stuff removed/trashed? I see that the 260 got the LS engine. I am going with an LT1 and do not know what should go vs. what should stay. I just picked up my tank last weekend and have not had time to check everything out. Hopefully, more time this weekend. Any additional info/responses would be great! Thanks again! Tim
  11. Hi all, I now have EVERYTHING that I need to do the LT1/4L60e swap into the 240z. I have searched and seen a lot of "miscellaneous" posts about installing the F-Body LS1 tank into the S30 cars, but was wondering if anybody actually documented the complete process (with photos). I am really just trying to figure out what I am in for and what to do with all of the emissions crap on the top of the LS1 tank. Any good information is appreciated! Thank you! Tim
  12. Hi Mike - I still have my complete stock F/R spring set (no struts) from my 10/71 car. Just removed them a few weeks ago. Please shoot me a PM if you are still looking and we can go from there. You can have them CHEAP! Thanks, Tim
  13. Hi all, I am finishing up the brakes and suspension. The last thing I need to do is adjust the e-brake with the new rear disc setup. Butm I found out that I am missing one of the small clips that that slides onto the e-brake cables to hold them in place at the rear where the cables split to go to the rear brakes. I only need one, but would be happy to buy a pair. These are also the same clips that mount the e-brake rear cables to the small bracket on the reat strut tube. These clips are narrower than the ones that hold the actual brake lines. Picture is not great (cell phone), but it should be understandable. Any help is appreciated! Thank you! Tim
  14. I have a x-member and the tie rod ends. I don't think I have an extra trans mount, but I will look. PM Sent.
  15. I've got a nice clean set too from a 1974 260. Let me know if interested and I'll get a couple of pics.
  16. I have a new set of (1 piece) door weatherstripping that I got from MSA a few months ago. They were on the car for 3 months and removed. They are tight fitting, but are basically new. I ended up with another set and do not need 2. Will sell for $60 shipped via USPS Priority. Please let me know ifinterested. Thanks, Tim.
  17. Excellent! Thank you Paul! The bar I have was definitely from the earlier style mount. Your information is perfect! Thanks again! Tim
  18. Hi all - I have this bar for sale in the sale section of the forum. It is from an early 1974 260Z. The main question here is "What cars will this work on?". I know that it will work on 260-280 cars, but need to confirm if it will work on the 240's that have the factory bracket locations. I know that it will not fit early cars due top the lack of brackets installed. But, is there also an issue with how it fits the early R180 rears due to the lower diff mount? Example: Early 240's have the R180 with the straight lower diff mount. Will this only work on 240's with the curved/extended diff mounts? I hope this makes sense! Thanks in advance for the clarification! Tim
  19. I've got one from a 74' 260 if it will work for you. Not sure if it is different for the FI cars. Please let me know and I'll see if I can dig it out of the shed. Thanks, Tim
  20. Hi all... I am looking for the short metal brake line that connects to the flexible line. Mine stripped out while I was pulling apart the rear suspension for the rebuild this weekend. This comes apart about a foot in from the flare connection. Not worried about cleanliness, but need it to have good fittings on each end. Please reply or shoot me a PM with shipped cost to 80920. Thanks! Tim
  21. Which bolt? I have a box full of stuff, but need to be sure of what you are looking for...
  22. Email sent. Thanks Jim! If anybody else has some, please let me know. I would like to get the next run to the powder-coater done ASAP. Thanks, Tim
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