darom

Guys, are the steering wheels easy to remove on Zs in general? On my old Chevy, I had to use the wheel remover to take it off. On my 280z 76 once the nut came off, I was able to effortlessly take the wheel off. Thanks!

I can't believe how many Zs out there in his back yard!

Guys, thanks for your help - I found a set of used bumpers with rubber pieces.

Guys, I am looking for some advice repairing the rubber (front and rear) bumper ends. In the front, the PO used the duck tape to hide the cracks and spray matching the 'bandages'. In the back, the rubber ends simply cracked off. In addition, the back rear flat rubber center extension is a mess as well. I checked Dragon and MSA catalogs and don't see the 76 rubber ends/extensions for sale. I can probably fab an aluminum extension, but what about the bumper ends? How can I fix them? My wife and I would like to keep the stock Z look (we did check some of the air dams out). Thanks in advance, Den '76 280Z

Your story brought up some of my negative memories when I had gone to pick up a car 6 hours away. My truck's transfer case got busted (driveshaft bolts were loose) with the U-haul trailer still attached, no rental places around to get back etc etc. Now I realize what I went through is _nothing_ in comparison to yours. I made a strong decision then to not go too far from home in pursuit of cars/toys and not to deal with Paypal (good luck getting your money back after 60 days). Ohh, and ask for high-rez pictures of the car, and not to fall for the seller's 'my camera is not working'. 2 years later I broke my own pledge and ventured 7 hours north looking for a 240Z. The seller advertised the car so well on the phone, that I trusted his opinion that I was ready to drive it back. I got the rental one way. What I found was a rusted P.O.S. with a E30 head. I am married, my wife helped me walk away from that deal after a 30-min phone conversation. I still got away pretty cheap (a few hundred $$) and a lost day. Btw, the seller couldn't provide good pictures for me either like in the previous experience. If I were you, I would have tried to find someone from the forum to check the car out for you. I wish I did it myself, but like an idiot I was afraid someone was going to snatch that 'great' deal from me, especially when the seller mentioned as a matter of fact, that 'a few more guys were coming to check the car out ...' Good luck getting your possessions back. If you find anything in the Bakersfield, CA area, let me know With best regards! Den '76 280Z - work in progress (sun roof needs to be welded shut, interior work, a few patches of rust, new paint job, brakes etc.) '98 Camaro Z28 - daily driver

http://www.rockauto.com has them, look under Electrical - Switch and Relay BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2030046

Update. Found the stock water temp specs thanks to a forum member: Cold - 18K to 33K Ohms Hot - 250 - 400 Ohms This info helps somewhat - the gauge vendors don't post their gauge specs and want you to buy their senders. I am still looking for the stock oil pressure sender's Ohm specs.

I've tried searching on this forum, but didn't find anything to help me use my stock Z brand new oil pressure/water temp senders with aftermarket Autometer gauges. Do the Z senders send out the same resistance as Autometer oil pres./water temp gauges' ones? It is funny, how for ex., Summit never lists the Ohm settings for the oil pressure/water temp sending units? The site sure does show the fuel gauge resistors. WTF? I wish I could just order the new gauges with senders and forget about it. But I already have the Z new senders ($$) and would hate replacing them. The car in question is 76. Thanks!

Have you upgraded your fusible links/Maxi-fuses to allow for more AMPs? If the default alt. circuit is asking for 50-60amps, what kind of maxi-fuse would you use with either AD-244 or CS-144 alternators? Thanks!

Hi guys, How many ignition relays (passenger side) do our cars have? 1976 FSM shows only one - page BE-36. It appears that the PO installed two of them (part number B5230-W0500) on my 76. The oil/water temp/voltage/fuel gauges don't work (the illumination does work). I thought maybe the voltage regulator was bad (per FSM), but the PO installed a brand new one from Kragen's. The next thing FSM suggests is the ignition relay (singular, not plural case). Attached you will see my ignition relays. I found the Courtesy site showing the original relay number being 25230-89915. I had an old relay laying around with the same number, when I installed it instead of that 2-pack I had, the car almost started at half-turn of the key and the relay started making loud buzzing noise. I turned off the car immediately. Obviously, the PO hacked the wiring. Could someone do me a favor and check the continuity from the water temp sending post (engine non-running) to the frame? Is yours grounded? Because mine is - this doesn't make sense! The same happens with my oil sending unit, it is grounded. WTF. All the fuses have been tested with the voltmeter. I am getting 11.2V on the fuse that handles gauges. I appreciate your help, I posted the similar post in the classicz's forums. Thanks, Den '76 280z

Calgary280ZT, I live in Bako town, I should have noticed this thread earlier to meet you in person. I am looking for a 1970-72 Z now to make it a daily driver. Which Vintage Air system did you get installed? Part number? How did it fit? If this is off topic, can you PM on this one? Thanks!