darom

Guys, I need your expertise on whether or not I need to replace this part. My friend and I took apart a junker's 5-speed (1979 280xz with 310k miles) to find that overall it looked very clean inside, all bearings and synchros looked good for its age. The only problem is the main drive gear with its pitted teeth. I was ready to order the bearings/synchros rebuilt kit, but if there is way to save money, I am all for it Can my current 4-speed 1976 tranny's main drive gear be interchanged with the 5-speed one? This 4-speed has 2nd and 3rd popping out gear problems (while driving the 2nd and 3rd pop back into neutral). I can't find anybody online who sells _just_ the main drive gear. Maybe someone has a used one he/she can sell me? Before I take the tranny to the shop locally, can someone have a look at a few pictures and give me their professional/hobbyist advice? Here is the link to the album: http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c1/darom/ The areas of concern are here: http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1/darom/IMGP0522.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1/darom/IMGP0521.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1/darom/IMGP0512.jpg I appreciate your help. Thanks. Den '76 280z - work in progress

I know the last post was back in October '08, but how the things are going? Have you finished your 76? I have a 76 as well and am wondering if I install a generator in the smog equipped car even with the eletric motor (I live in CA), am I going to be penalized for running diesel down the freeway? Can one run a farmer's diesel in a generator (cheaper)? How much more difficult is it to install the direct drive system bypassing the transmission? Thanks!

I have the same relay on my '76. When I bought the car, I posted similar question. Here is my old post on classiczcars: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30701 showing exactly the same relay as oddman's nissan part. Originally I thought that the previous owner rigged some up, something unique and non-reproducable.

If you still need one, send me the relay number printed on its side to simzealot at gmail dot com. I might have a used one. We can work something out.

Old thread got resurfaced. Here is some good reading: http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

You can check rockauto.com site for your part numbers and compare different years. Regards!

Would you mind posting pictures of your car with these rims? Thanks in advance.

FFMarc, good job. When you sprayed the car, did you have any heating lamps inside? What was the temperature and how long did it take for the paint to cure? Any orange peel? How does this paint buff out? Was dust an issue in the garage? Sorry about so many questions - I am as newbie in this paint business as you were some time ago I have a gallon of that John Deer blitz begging to be used one day. Thanks.

Is this Blitz Black by J. Deer?

Update: rockauto is sending me another master cylinder. Hopefully I'll have better luck with it.

Guys, before I take this p.o.s. rebuilt master cylinder I was wondering if anyone had any luck fixing it? It leaks between the copper washer and the 23/24 mm nut on front/rear lines. The nut has the 10mm opening for the brake line. I torqued as much as I could those two nuts and the brake fluid still seeps through. The unit is a fresh rebuilt from rockauto. All lines are brand new. My plan was to take the master cylinder off, take those nuts off and file the surfaces of the cylinder itself, nut and both sides of the washer. Would this fix it or would you rather return the part back to the vendor for another rebuilt unit? I am afraid that I am going to get another hastely assembled unit. Thanks! Den '76 280z

You asked for a piece of advice, so here it goes: I wouldn't recommend buying this car right at the moment due to your financial situation and the whole 'garage' arrangement with your parents. You are young, going to school/job etc., you need a reliable car. Selling your Integra and having the Z road-worthy fast won't happen. Getting parts might take weeks. You will need garage space to have your car jacked up, unless you can leave it sitting outside? Do you have welding equipment or a friend who will weld patch your floor panels? Is there a junk yard nearby where you can pick up some parts? MSA, Black dragon resellers aren't cheap. Did you check with DMV on 5 years of debt in registration fees? How much would it cost to re-register the car? Did the PO at least pay the non-op fees? Save your $2k now and buy a nice running, painted Z for $5-6k. You will actually save some money in the long run Good luck with your decision.

I am half way done installing the Vintage Air compact heater (defrost + bottom vent only). My original a/c-heater combo in '76 leaked, a/c didn't work, so I took it all out. I will post results running the heater when it gets around 40-50F here. The unit is small, there is plenty of space to position it.

The source mentions the size: http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/ "... the correct thread for the oil sensor hole on the passenger side of the block is 1/8" -18 NPT (National Pipe Thread)." My 280z 1976 block had a British Pipe Thread (BPT) oil adapter. I ordered an Autometer sender/gauge and had to find an inline adapter BPT male to national pipe thread female for the Autometer sender.

Here are two threads on the mopars on how to do a roller paint job. A lot of tips on how to do it right. It is a lot of reading material http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2655425&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 You will see some recommendations on using a bit more expensive boat paint (Brightside) instead of Rustoleum.

Guys, are the steering wheels easy to remove on Zs in general? On my old Chevy, I had to use the wheel remover to take it off. On my 280z 76 once the nut came off, I was able to effortlessly take the wheel off. Thanks!

I can't believe how many Zs out there in his back yard!

Guys, thanks for your help - I found a set of used bumpers with rubber pieces.

Guys, I am looking for some advice repairing the rubber (front and rear) bumper ends. In the front, the PO used the duck tape to hide the cracks and spray matching the 'bandages'. In the back, the rubber ends simply cracked off. In addition, the back rear flat rubber center extension is a mess as well. I checked Dragon and MSA catalogs and don't see the 76 rubber ends/extensions for sale. I can probably fab an aluminum extension, but what about the bumper ends? How can I fix them? My wife and I would like to keep the stock Z look (we did check some of the air dams out). Thanks in advance, Den '76 280Z

Your story brought up some of my negative memories when I had gone to pick up a car 6 hours away. My truck's transfer case got busted (driveshaft bolts were loose) with the U-haul trailer still attached, no rental places around to get back etc etc. Now I realize what I went through is _nothing_ in comparison to yours. I made a strong decision then to not go too far from home in pursuit of cars/toys and not to deal with Paypal (good luck getting your money back after 60 days). Ohh, and ask for high-rez pictures of the car, and not to fall for the seller's 'my camera is not working'. 2 years later I broke my own pledge and ventured 7 hours north looking for a 240Z. The seller advertised the car so well on the phone, that I trusted his opinion that I was ready to drive it back. I got the rental one way. What I found was a rusted P.O.S. with a E30 head. I am married, my wife helped me walk away from that deal after a 30-min phone conversation. I still got away pretty cheap (a few hundred $$) and a lost day. Btw, the seller couldn't provide good pictures for me either like in the previous experience. If I were you, I would have tried to find someone from the forum to check the car out for you. I wish I did it myself, but like an idiot I was afraid someone was going to snatch that 'great' deal from me, especially when the seller mentioned as a matter of fact, that 'a few more guys were coming to check the car out ...' Good luck getting your possessions back. If you find anything in the Bakersfield, CA area, let me know With best regards! Den '76 280Z - work in progress (sun roof needs to be welded shut, interior work, a few patches of rust, new paint job, brakes etc.) '98 Camaro Z28 - daily driver

http://www.rockauto.com has them, look under Electrical - Switch and Relay BECK/ARNLEY Part # 2030046

Update. Found the stock water temp specs thanks to a forum member: Cold - 18K to 33K Ohms Hot - 250 - 400 Ohms This info helps somewhat - the gauge vendors don't post their gauge specs and want you to buy their senders. I am still looking for the stock oil pressure sender's Ohm specs.

I've tried searching on this forum, but didn't find anything to help me use my stock Z brand new oil pressure/water temp senders with aftermarket Autometer gauges. Do the Z senders send out the same resistance as Autometer oil pres./water temp gauges' ones? It is funny, how for ex., Summit never lists the Ohm settings for the oil pressure/water temp sending units? The site sure does show the fuel gauge resistors. WTF? I wish I could just order the new gauges with senders and forget about it. But I already have the Z new senders ($$) and would hate replacing them. The car in question is 76. Thanks!

Have you upgraded your fusible links/Maxi-fuses to allow for more AMPs? If the default alt. circuit is asking for 50-60amps, what kind of maxi-fuse would you use with either AD-244 or CS-144 alternators? Thanks!

Hi guys, How many ignition relays (passenger side) do our cars have? 1976 FSM shows only one - page BE-36. It appears that the PO installed two of them (part number B5230-W0500) on my 76. The oil/water temp/voltage/fuel gauges don't work (the illumination does work). I thought maybe the voltage regulator was bad (per FSM), but the PO installed a brand new one from Kragen's. The next thing FSM suggests is the ignition relay (singular, not plural case). Attached you will see my ignition relays. I found the Courtesy site showing the original relay number being 25230-89915. I had an old relay laying around with the same number, when I installed it instead of that 2-pack I had, the car almost started at half-turn of the key and the relay started making loud buzzing noise. I turned off the car immediately. Obviously, the PO hacked the wiring. Could someone do me a favor and check the continuity from the water temp sending post (engine non-running) to the frame? Is yours grounded? Because mine is - this doesn't make sense! The same happens with my oil sending unit, it is grounded. WTF. All the fuses have been tested with the voltmeter. I am getting 11.2V on the fuse that handles gauges. I appreciate your help, I posted the similar post in the classicz's forums. Thanks, Den '76 280z