darom

Great, thanks - that's exactly what I was looking for! I guess the PO just added the second o-ring to stop that annoying leak, lol.

cygnusx1, thanks for the response. It seems the leak is from within the speedometer cable itself, not the outside of the cog. Is there an o-ring on the speedo gear shaft? Here is the picture - where the arrow is pointed I had two stacked chewed up o-rings. Do I need anything there? It doesn't seem logical since the speedo cable moves inside. I might be wrong. Thanks, Den

I can't for the life of me find any info on the O-rings inside the speedometer cable at the tranny cog. I searched in vain here and in my pdf service manual files. I swapped my 4-speed with a 5-speed and fished out 2 chewed up o-rings. There was always a tranny fluid leak. How many o-rings do I need there? What size? Any tips are appreciated. Thanks, Den '76 280z

tworkman, have you tried rockauto.com?

I got rid of the external voltage regulator on my 76, by installing a later model alternator (which had internal built-in regulator) from a 79 model. If your alternator works properly, it should provide 14.2-14.5 volts. Your battery's normal charge is about 12.4-12.6 volts. I am not familiar with your brand battery, but it will stay charged with the alternator doing 14.2-14.5. Btw, my external voltrage regulator gave me a lot of headaches (it was new) - lights flickered, the voltage gauge showed abnormal readings, its needle was bouncing like a tach.

cygnusx1, thanks for the reference!

Countershaft gear appeared to be badly pitted as well. Upon removal of the gear we saw more damage then from the previous overall quick inspection the day before. The mechanic who helped me said that if left alone the tranny would have made loud 'supercharged' noises I decided to have it rebuilt with new bearings/synchros parts. I am keeping the car (so much $$ invested into it that it is beyond the point of no-return) and would like to have it done right the first time. The two gear assemblies will be replaced with good used parts from a different tranny. Thank you guys for your help.

kiwi, thanks for the offer. I might consider it - I am taking the tranny to a mechanic this week who might have a few used input shaft gear assemblies laying around. If he doesn't have it, I will be contacting you. I am attaching the picture of it. Thanks! Den

Steve, thanks for a great write-up!

I wish it was that easy. I already paid some $$ for this tranny + my time removing, cleaning and disassembling it.

I have no clue how to introduce paragraphs to my above post. Sorry about its messed up look. Got it - firefox is not working well with this bulletin board software.

Guys, I need your expertise on whether or not I need to replace this part. My friend and I took apart a junker's 5-speed (1979 280xz with 310k miles) to find that overall it looked very clean inside, all bearings and synchros looked good for its age. The only problem is the main drive gear with its pitted teeth. I was ready to order the bearings/synchros rebuilt kit, but if there is way to save money, I am all for it Can my current 4-speed 1976 tranny's main drive gear be interchanged with the 5-speed one? This 4-speed has 2nd and 3rd popping out gear problems (while driving the 2nd and 3rd pop back into neutral). I can't find anybody online who sells _just_ the main drive gear. Maybe someone has a used one he/she can sell me? Before I take the tranny to the shop locally, can someone have a look at a few pictures and give me their professional/hobbyist advice? Here is the link to the album: http://s24.photobucket.com/albums/c1/darom/ The areas of concern are here: http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1/darom/IMGP0522.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1/darom/IMGP0521.jpg http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c1/darom/IMGP0512.jpg I appreciate your help. Thanks. Den '76 280z - work in progress

I know the last post was back in October '08, but how the things are going? Have you finished your 76? I have a 76 as well and am wondering if I install a generator in the smog equipped car even with the eletric motor (I live in CA), am I going to be penalized for running diesel down the freeway? Can one run a farmer's diesel in a generator (cheaper)? How much more difficult is it to install the direct drive system bypassing the transmission? Thanks!

I have the same relay on my '76. When I bought the car, I posted similar question. Here is my old post on classiczcars: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30701 showing exactly the same relay as oddman's nissan part. Originally I thought that the previous owner rigged some up, something unique and non-reproducable.

If you still need one, send me the relay number printed on its side to simzealot at gmail dot com. I might have a used one. We can work something out.

Old thread got resurfaced. Here is some good reading: http://www.stealth316.com/2-dynabatt.htm

You can check rockauto.com site for your part numbers and compare different years. Regards!

Would you mind posting pictures of your car with these rims? Thanks in advance.

FFMarc, good job. When you sprayed the car, did you have any heating lamps inside? What was the temperature and how long did it take for the paint to cure? Any orange peel? How does this paint buff out? Was dust an issue in the garage? Sorry about so many questions - I am as newbie in this paint business as you were some time ago I have a gallon of that John Deer blitz begging to be used one day. Thanks.

Is this Blitz Black by J. Deer?

Update: rockauto is sending me another master cylinder. Hopefully I'll have better luck with it.

Guys, before I take this p.o.s. rebuilt master cylinder I was wondering if anyone had any luck fixing it? It leaks between the copper washer and the 23/24 mm nut on front/rear lines. The nut has the 10mm opening for the brake line. I torqued as much as I could those two nuts and the brake fluid still seeps through. The unit is a fresh rebuilt from rockauto. All lines are brand new. My plan was to take the master cylinder off, take those nuts off and file the surfaces of the cylinder itself, nut and both sides of the washer. Would this fix it or would you rather return the part back to the vendor for another rebuilt unit? I am afraid that I am going to get another hastely assembled unit. Thanks! Den '76 280z

You asked for a piece of advice, so here it goes: I wouldn't recommend buying this car right at the moment due to your financial situation and the whole 'garage' arrangement with your parents. You are young, going to school/job etc., you need a reliable car. Selling your Integra and having the Z road-worthy fast won't happen. Getting parts might take weeks. You will need garage space to have your car jacked up, unless you can leave it sitting outside? Do you have welding equipment or a friend who will weld patch your floor panels? Is there a junk yard nearby where you can pick up some parts? MSA, Black dragon resellers aren't cheap. Did you check with DMV on 5 years of debt in registration fees? How much would it cost to re-register the car? Did the PO at least pay the non-op fees? Save your $2k now and buy a nice running, painted Z for $5-6k. You will actually save some money in the long run Good luck with your decision.

I am half way done installing the Vintage Air compact heater (defrost + bottom vent only). My original a/c-heater combo in '76 leaked, a/c didn't work, so I took it all out. I will post results running the heater when it gets around 40-50F here. The unit is small, there is plenty of space to position it.

The source mentions the size: http://datsunzgarage.com/rebuild/ "... the correct thread for the oil sensor hole on the passenger side of the block is 1/8" -18 NPT (National Pipe Thread)." My 280z 1976 block had a British Pipe Thread (BPT) oil adapter. I ordered an Autometer sender/gauge and had to find an inline adapter BPT male to national pipe thread female for the Autometer sender.