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darom

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Everything posted by darom

  1. I gave up on finding the right size plugs. A few trips to a local junk yard solved this problem. Nissan used the same plugs on a lot of models.
  2. Hi John! I've just paypal'ed you the $$ for the puller tool. Thanks! Denis
  3. Be careful about using chemical strippers. They will have to be completely neutralized before you can apply primer/paint to the body surface. If you need some good reading, go to www.hotrodders.com and read their 'exterior' forum 610 page section.
  4. What model/year do you have? If you find a pin out diagram, you can make your own plugs. Here is a place that sells a lot of nice connectors: http://www.easternbeaver.com/ Some of them do look like original Datsun plugs. GL!
  5. I've searched here and googled' for the metric bolt size for a 280z intake manifold (stock 1976) bolt sizes, but in vain. There is a guy selling the 4-bolt kit on ebay for $20 (unfortunately he doesn't mention what size they are), but I can find the same bolts at the local bolt place for a cheaper price. Anybody knows the size, length? It looks like a 12mm, fine thread, 60mm long? Is this right? I've got the exhaust stud kit and gasket for the exhaust/intake job already. Thanks!
  6. I took my oil pan 4 times before I finally found the right combination (280z 76): 1. FelPro gasket, Permatex (Aviation) on both sides, pan and engine - sealed great until I decided to do the timing chain. 2. MSA competition gasket - dry, only grey Permatex in the corners (engine side) - leaked after the engine got hot and shut down. 3. MSA gasket - oil pan side Aviation Permatex, engine side - dry, corners (grey) - leaked. At this point I gave up on the MSA gasket. 4. FelPro, grey Permatex thin layer on both sides - no leaks. After each attempt, I straightened the oil pan. MSA gasket is back in its box. Like previous posters mentioned, I do clean surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Adhesion of the oil pan to the engine block with grey RTV is excellent. I think grey Permatex without gasket would have worked by itself.
  7. I had the same problems on my 76 as you did, until I swapped the alternator: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html If you have a later model alternator with built-in voltage regulator, then you won't need your stock one. After the upgrade, my voltage gauge is steady, the charging voltage is about 13.8-14V, the lights are brighter etc. I found the 79 alternator at the local junk yard. This fusible link upgrade followed: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html
  8. Haha, yes I thought about it. Do you think I can just give it a nice bath or the design itself was flawed?
  9. Guys, on my 76 the idle hunts between 800 and 1000 as well. If I remove the BCDD in the smog nazi Kalifornia, would I fail my next smog check? Thanks!
  10. It looks like I found the speedometer lens. Here is the picture of the relay. Thanks!
  11. Guys, I am looking for a lens for the 280z speedometer gauge (did various 280z years have different lenses?). Mine works, but it has an ugly hole drilled through it. If you have a non-working/working speedometer gauge with a good lens for cheap, I will buy the whole thing. Another part is a timer relay unit for a 1976 280z which is located on the passenger side, above the fuse panel that controls the seat belt light warning time-out. The part number is 28911 89910 ET 506. Yours might be different slightly. As long as it has a 4-prong electrical connector, I think I will be ok. I am in 93313. If you are looking for parts yourself, please let me know. I have a lot of relays/gauges from later years myself that I will be happy to trade with you. Thanks in advance, Denis '76 280z - work in progress
  12. I've tried finding these lenses on dragon and MSA sites, but in vain. The ebay has some gauges for sale, but I can't justify to buy the whole gauge for the sake of one piece of plastic. Does anybody know where I can buy one? The P.O. of my 76 drilled an ugly hole through the speedometer's plastic lens and this hole in front of me just drives me nuts. Thanks in advance!
  13. Great, thanks - that's exactly what I was looking for! I guess the PO just added the second o-ring to stop that annoying leak, lol.
  14. cygnusx1, thanks for the response. It seems the leak is from within the speedometer cable itself, not the outside of the cog. Is there an o-ring on the speedo gear shaft? Here is the picture - where the arrow is pointed I had two stacked chewed up o-rings. Do I need anything there? It doesn't seem logical since the speedo cable moves inside. I might be wrong. Thanks, Den
  15. I can't for the life of me find any info on the O-rings inside the speedometer cable at the tranny cog. I searched in vain here and in my pdf service manual files. I swapped my 4-speed with a 5-speed and fished out 2 chewed up o-rings. There was always a tranny fluid leak. How many o-rings do I need there? What size? Any tips are appreciated. Thanks, Den '76 280z
  16. I got rid of the external voltage regulator on my 76, by installing a later model alternator (which had internal built-in regulator) from a 79 model. If your alternator works properly, it should provide 14.2-14.5 volts. Your battery's normal charge is about 12.4-12.6 volts. I am not familiar with your brand battery, but it will stay charged with the alternator doing 14.2-14.5. Btw, my external voltrage regulator gave me a lot of headaches (it was new) - lights flickered, the voltage gauge showed abnormal readings, its needle was bouncing like a tach.
  17. cygnusx1, thanks for the reference!
  18. Countershaft gear appeared to be badly pitted as well. Upon removal of the gear we saw more damage then from the previous overall quick inspection the day before. The mechanic who helped me said that if left alone the tranny would have made loud 'supercharged' noises I decided to have it rebuilt with new bearings/synchros parts. I am keeping the car (so much $$ invested into it that it is beyond the point of no-return) and would like to have it done right the first time. The two gear assemblies will be replaced with good used parts from a different tranny. Thank you guys for your help.
  19. kiwi, thanks for the offer. I might consider it - I am taking the tranny to a mechanic this week who might have a few used input shaft gear assemblies laying around. If he doesn't have it, I will be contacting you. I am attaching the picture of it. Thanks! Den
  20. Steve, thanks for a great write-up!
  21. I wish it was that easy. I already paid some $$ for this tranny + my time removing, cleaning and disassembling it.
  22. I have no clue how to introduce paragraphs to my above post. Sorry about its messed up look. Got it - firefox is not working well with this bulletin board software.
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