darom

Hi guys, I will be working on installing microsquirt v3 in my California edition '76 280z stock car which came with EGR/catalytic converter and an exhaust manifold. The car runs fine with the exception of typical lean conditions which gets resolved with a potentiometer pot. The plan is to do it in 2 stages: Stage 1 (getting "my feet wet" with learning to tune the car with TS): Milkfab's 36-1 wheel (crank pulley mounted) Microsquirt v3 + IAC stepper adapter LM7 truck ignition coils Pro Tunerz fuel rail (14mm) intake/throttle body/GM ICV 14point7 spartan 3 v2 wb keeping stock exhaust + LSU 4.9 high impedance injectors Stage 2 Headers + Turbo upgrade In my infinite wisdom I figured I would kill both birds, aka project stages, with one stone - and purchased the Bosch 440cc 'green giants' injectors EV1 (part 0280155968), length 65 mm, Long style. Flow: 43,5 PSI (3 bar) 430cc / min = 41 lb / h. My assumption was to use them on a stock engine, get a turbo installed later, and re-use them. I got a great deal on them and they are authentic Bosch. After reading the mega manual, now I am concerned about the idle pulse width issues and fighting over enrichment conditions running a stock L6 engine. I spent a lot of time going through this forum looking for anyone running similar injectors on an n/a engine and found that in almost all cases guys are running turbo engines with large injectors (supra injectors are popular). The stock engine needs 15 lbs/hr or 158cc injectors. Obviously the 440cc ones I got are a major overkill. Am I over stressing over the issue? Will i be able to tune these injectors for the time being? Or I should keep on looking for 190-200cc injectors on Stan Weiss's site at http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm ? I found a few leads by cross referencing the part numbers and what rockauto has in stock. A lot of GB reman and BWD ones. Do you have any recommendations? I'd like to keep 14mm/14mm top/base long, high impedance injectors, preferably Bosch. Thanks! Den

Hi Steve, I was wondering if you were able to try the GM IAC valve instead of the Jeep one? Any feedback? Originally I was planning to keep the Nissan's AAR valve due to its simplicity (heats up closing up) with a microsquirt, but I was never happy with its unpredictable behavior (especially when it is cold here in WI). I got the IAC stepper adapter module which EFI Source sells to go with a Jeep I6 4L IAC/ diyautotune's control body (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-4-0l-iac-valve/) and saw your post about switching over to a GM valve lol. I have a n/a '76 280z, no a/c, so the IAC is going to be used in an open loop, temperature controlled mode, for warm-ups only. Thanks! Den PS Do you still have your N42 intake?

I live in CA, in the summer the heat soaking is an issue for my 76. I installed a 79 fuel injector cooling fan/blower with a duct (ebay has some of them) hooked up to a $5 ebay timer/relay which keeps the fan going for 12 minutes after shut-off. I just wired a button inside the cab to turn it on. The little ebay timer/relay is rated at less than 1 amp so it is wired to trigger a bigger 15amp relay to operate the fan. It does help. Good luck with your project!

In the FSM, Engine Fuel section, check the adjustment of the Throttle Valve switch (or TPS). Under WOT, or acceleration the TPS provides fuel enrichment. Your back firing is possibly caused by the lean mixture.

I am running the same MSD fuel pump on my 76. I re-used the stock fuel pump mounting brackets which 'suspend' the pump away from the mounting plate. The MSD provided brackets do not quieten the vibrations as much as the stock designed by Datsun ones. Even if they are properly insulated with rubber. It is interesting that my old 1989 190e Mercedes had the same idea to suspend 2 fuel pumps on 4 rubber donuts to make them quiet. As the previous poster noted, the MSD pump does need to be in a lower than stock position to allow better suction. If the pump is having bad flow, it will make noises. I removed the stock dampener - I installed the inline electric fuel pressure sender with a gauge inside the cabin before and after (with and without the dampener). The fuel pressure was steady and didn't fluctuate in both cases. Once I saw that, I felt no guilt getting rid of the Datsun engineering Regards!

After swapping fusible links to the blade fuses per Blue's web site on my 76, in addition to the brake light relay, I also had the EGR solenoid's circuit being energized with the ignition key off. Maybe on yours, it is worth checking out as well? I had to re-wire it to allow the igntion key to deliver 12V.

Guys, excellent discussion re: the aluminum radiators. After reading this thread, I took my 3 core brass radiator to the local radiator shop that had been there for the past 18 years and had it recored for $90. A 2-year warranty left a warm feeling inside. The car never overheated here in Bakersfield, CA in 100F+, but I don't do any racing events. Aluminum ebay radiators are like lottery - sometimes you hit a quality product, sometimes not. I wish local places like AFCO in IA can make aluminum radiators for our 280z's. I have their unit in my 67 Camaro and for 180$ this was a piece of welding art. It still has a sticker "Made in US" ('with pride').

From a recent hot rod meeting. A friend of mine invited to bring my classic, didn't specifically ask for a 67 Camaro. I brought my 76 import

What kind of adhesive have you used on your interior (over doors) pieces? I bought a professional adhesive that comes in a can from the upholstery shop (either sprayable or applied with a brush), and now 10 months later, the vinyl trim started to detach . I am not sure if it is because of the 100F weather here or if I applied it in a wrong fashion. Regards!

I used the instructions and parts list from this site (posts my Tim65GT): http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/taurus-fan-wiring-problem.796649/ I saw the rx-7 thread when I was researching it and preferred Tim's setup. A used Taurus fan from a junk yard was $25. The most expensive parts were good relays (75amp), circuit breakers and 6 and 8 gauge wire. It took some time to fine tune the turning on/off fan mode via the potentiometers. The hand held laser temp gun helped a lot. My wife really disliked my lab in the kitchen though

I used brand new Kia door weatherstripping. Even after tweaking the angle of the window door frames, there is a nice gap on the passenger side at the top part, and a slight gap on the driver's side. I saw someone's suggestion to use the HomeDepot's door stick-on weatherstripping to add that additional thickness to close those gaps. It would look ugly as heck, but functional. I'd rather not go that direction.

After the external to internal voltage regulator upgrade with a 280zx alternator, this relay is always energized, even with the key in off position. You will need to rewire it like draztik said. I have a 76 as well, and I had to rewire mine to avoid a potential battery drain.

PM'ed back. Thanks. Found the part.

I am looking for a 280z rear strut insulator in a decent condition. Mine is torn. Please let me know at simzealot AT gmail dot com. Thanks! Denis

I had big holes cut in mine by the PO. I found a local upholstery guy who re-did the panels on my 76. No speaker holes, nice clean look. I would look for a 76 set (good or bad), you can always re-do the panels. If you found one, you can sell your 78 panels to finance your upholstery expenses.

If I were to go with these calipers, what year/car model do I need to give to the parts sales man to get replacement pads? Or if I were to rebuild these calipers (stage 3 or 4), which kit do I need to get? Can anyone identify the car make these parts come from? Thanks!

Rob, I am going to take a guess that the main grounding wire for the ECU is either broken and is making a poor contact. It runs from the ECU harness, goes through the f/w grommet on the LH side, then goes up along with the windshield wiper hoses and ends at the negative battery post. I am assuming this is how it is setup on your 78. Mine is 76 and I haven't checked the 78 FSM yet. The battery negative cable has a quick disconnect connector for the ECU wire which is usually in a pretty sad condition from being bent all the time while you disconnect your neg. cable. What I did on mine is to route the ECU negative wire to the starter negative bolt. The neg. battery cable goes into the same spot. Now I can disconnect the battery negative cable without disturbing the ECU's cable. Download the Fuel Injection Book, and run some tests for the control unit ground circuits: pages 57-60. Regards!

The switch is definitely worn, but usable. It is probably all gummed up with dirt and old grease. Once you clean it, put some dielectric grease there. Don't forget to clean all metal contacts.

Take apart your turn signal/light combo switch, clean all contacts. There are threads here on how to do it. Take apart your hazard light switch and do the same. You can use electric contact cleaner. Let us know the results afterwards. Regards!

Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner (not the brake cleaner!) around and see when the RPMs will pick up? It sounds like the vacuum leak comes from the intake manifold gasket. I would also check the EGR valve which gets activated when the engine is hot (it should be closed at idle). FSM shows the tests how to check its operation. You can also do the 'yogurt cup' testing that FastWoman used on classiczcars. Basically, you remove the intake rubber boot, put the yogurt cup with a small hole right into the intake opening, and pressurize your intake with compressed air (25-30 psi should do it). Then you just listen for escaping air. This is easier since the engine is off and there are no extra noises. Regards!

Another vote for the cast iron manifolds. I put a 383 with comp eng. headers (I painted them with VHT) in my 67 Camaro and wished I had just installed the exhaust manifolds. In my humble opinion, some of their disadvantages have been already mentioned: - heat - hard to reach/replace spark plugs - special routing of the spark plug wires to protect them from getting melted - whole bulkiness of the headers filling up the engine bay interfering with the power steering unit - requirement to have special header lock bolts to prevent them from getting loose My headers were painted, after 5 years they finally started to show the signs of internal rust. 350/383 engines have plenty of torque for a small car like 240/280z. The additional headers' 20-30 hp won't do you much good unless you are into racing and every millisecond counts. Regards! PS Forgot to add - the exhaust manifolds are dirt cheap! You probably can find some for $15-20 on craigslist.

What are your plans for drainage holes on each side at the top part of the hatch? My 76 came with the same sun roof monstrosity. I patched mine with a bigger piece of the donor's roof. Regards!

dhp, once mounted, does the vinyl side trim go under them, correct? Or is there another plastic piece that connect the pillar with the back dome light piece? Thanks!

Awesome, thanks for the tip! I will send you a PM. Thanks.

Hi guys, I am looking for some ideas in regards to 76 interior pieces. I did something illogical: - painted the car and installed the windshield glass - and later, bought the "How to restore a Datsun" book to find out that the darn windshield rubber gasket is a part of the inside trim!!! I am contemplating to glue as close as I can to the gasket the side pillar vinyl pieces, however since I won't be able to stretch the vinyl, most likely the whole job is going to look sloppy. The same applies to the front sun-visor's piece. Is there any car I can junk yard interior plastic pieces to match the Datsun's internal lines? I wouldn't mind to drill a few mounting holes to hold them. Would later 1980s 280zx pieces fit the earlier model? Is there any company that makes fiberglass trim? I can ask Derek who does the speaker pods, but I don't believe the demand is out there for these parts. Any ideas? Thanks! Denis