darom

Sounds good, thanks Steve. For now I will build a conservative timing table with max 36-38 degrees. I've been messing with my GM IAC I got from Protunerz. Managed to catapult the pintle into oblivion a few times. I didn't realize there is no stop. My max homing/closed/moving is at 160 steps. The IAC properly extends and stops at whatever CLT temperature is at. If I set the IAC at always on/hold current, it is making high pitched annoying noise. I will leave it at 'Moving' for now. I attached a fused 12V supply to it without my car running. What I _couldn't do_ is to use the 'Idle Warmup Duty' and put the max 160 steps in the 60-80F range to make the IAC completely close. Not sure, if this is because the car is not operational?

Great, thanks!

Thanks, NewZed. Appreciate your input. I did arrive at the same conclusion about the cam timing finally - two different things. Appreciate confirming it. I was way overthinking it lol. I think I finally nailed the initial timing config using 0 commanded degrees in the Fixed Timing section of the TunerStudio. I set 60 degrees in the 36:1 section, tooth #1 Angle (deg BTDC), which confirms Chickenman's statement about counting the gaps times 10 degrees for 36 trigger wheels (I have 6 gaps, 60 degrees). If I count teeth, my hall sensor is pointed at the 7th tooth. Question: I checked some of the guys' tunes on this board (cyrgnus and madcaw's) being curious about their total timing on their engines, and most of them have 41-43 degrees by 3000 rpms. I have a stock n/a engine with a N47 head, should i go with a more conservative number like 36-38 degrees?

Found some posts suggesting to use 0 degree fixed timing, this way I am avoiding any issues with timing light/wasted spark results. I don't have any timing marks (-10 to 10) besides the timing pointer I got with the trigger wheel. Tested with 0 degrees fixed advance and 0 degrees cranking advanced using 2 timing lights (old school with a variable knob on the back and the modern electronic one set at 0), both showed the TDC. My 36:1 Tooth #1 Angle (deg BTDC) was set at 60 degrees.

I was able to run the car with 70 degrees trigger crank wheel, 10 fixed. With advance timing light set at 0 degrees, I was seeing synced timing marks. Now, back to the previous post about doubling the timing light to 20 degrees to check my timing? Is it needed or I am good to go? I turned off the fixed timing, the car ran very rich, stumbling. I realized my MAP sensor (intake mounted unit from a used LS1 vehicle) was not working, it was stuck on 100 kpa. I am going to get a GM wall mounted unit. Saga continues. Thanks! 2024-10-18-auto-timing.mlg

I re-read Chickenman's post here: and set my 36:1 to 70 degrees, fixed timing at 10, the advance timing light at 0 degrees, and I have the timing pointer properly synced with my balancer's timing mark. I am still looking for those 'missing' 4 degrees Found another thread on setting up initial timing here "Please note this is nothing to do with cam timing or mechanical advance etc. you can set these independent of the bottom end using a vernier pulley." I guess I was confusing 2 different things here. Per that poster's write-up, the advance (variable) timing light needs to be set at double degree setting due to the wasted spark mode. So if I am commanding 10 fixed, the light should be at 20 degrees.

Now I am overthinking the initial timing configuration. My hall sensor is pointed at the 7th tooth. I found some posts advising to count the gaps and official doc saying I have to count teeth. If I set my Tooth #1 Angle (deg BTDC) at 70*, and command 10* at fixed, my advance timing light is at 10* - I get sync between the pointer and my harmonic balancer mark. I am confused about my timing chain/cam sproket 4* advance that I did years ago. Can someone please tell me if I need to add these 4 degrees to the 70* to have a "real" 10 degrees since the ECU is not aware of the mechanical cam advancement? If I use 74 degress for 36:1, 10 degrees fixed, my advance timing light at 10 degrees, I am off my pointer/balancer mark. Appreciate your input. Thanks.

Morning, I ended up getting a 3" exhaust pipe tip and welding it to my stock air cleaner box: The relay board is installed, I left some fuses out while setting up the initial timing, the board will be covered with a stock ECU plastic cover: I installed the Microsquirt ECU on the passenger side to separate wires carrying 12V for inj/ign/WB etc from the relay board on the driver's side. This is a fabbed bracket: and in the installed position: Reflashed the stock ECU firmware with the msextra code, all sensors are calibrated (with the exception of the Spartan3 WB). The GM IAC will be worked on later while I am setting up idle. The coils passed the test from the TS. The LS2 truck coils are set at 3.5ms dwell per the manual.

Forgot to mention that I had installed the MilkFab's trigger wheel that gets mounted on the 280z a/c harmonic balancer. This is their picture (I didn't take one): Last time I changed the timing chain (6 years) ago, I advanced it by 4 degrees, the notch is to the right of the cam gear mark: The MilkFab's instructions are calling for centering the sensor on the 6th tooth: "Adjust the trigger wheel while the mounting screws are loose to align the center of the sensor to the center of the 6th tooth if using the 36-1 wheel." I couldn't get the 6th tooth aligned (not enough adjustment), I could center it on the 7th tooth. I thought I had done something wrong. Searched the forums and found Chickenman's post (whose opinion I respect on this forum), who is recommending to use 7th or 8th tooth: "The missing Tooth should be 7 - 8 Teeth ahead of the sensor. Each Tooth = 10 degrees. So missing Tooth has to pass Crank sensor 70 to 80 degrees BEFORE TDC. This is very important. Re-position Crank wheel to get the missing Tooth ahead of Crank sensor by 7 to 8 teeth Minimum. " So my understanding is that my setting is at 60 degrees before TDS plus an additional 4 (physical cam advancement), 64 degrees. 36-1 wheel is a 10 degree per tooth. We need to count gaps. I placed mine on the 7th tooth, 6 gaps, i.e. 60 degrees (plus 'built-in 4 degree advance), 64 total. I hope I got it right.

I made some progress, installed the oxygen sensor. I had to drop the exhaust, fortunately last time I did it, I had used antiseeze on the threads, the manifold exhaust nuts were easy to take off: The Protunerz' intake, my Bosch injectors and rail are in place. The throttle cable from 240SX took a while to adjust. The pedal didn't have enough angle to do a 100 percent open throttle blade opening. I ended up shimming the gas pedal's 'pedestal' to give additional room for pedal to go. The floor pedal adjuster is almost bottomed out: The fuel pressure regular is going to be mounted by the battery. I bought all the right AN parts to attach it to the fuel rail, however I have major concerns about open exhaust below/dripping fuel from another source. If it drips, it will drip on the passenger side I am waiting for the AN 8 ORB to 5/16 barb (rail) and AN 6 ORB to 5/16 (regulator) to be delivered to move it to the new place. I am having hard time finding a silicone hose reducer (3 in to 2.75 in, or 75mm to 70mm) to use my stock air filter with my new throttle body. I can find the right size, but not the length. I need a 12 in long 45 degree reducer hose, the longest I found were 8-10 inches: If you guys know a place that can custom make or already sells a pre-made silicon reducer hose that size, please let me know. Thanks.

Made little progress by fab'ing a relay board for the MS to be installed in the stock ECU location. A plate: and the ready to be installed the relay board: The stock plastic ECU cover will cover up the board. The diagram of the relay board: Finished the coil wiring (cables are exposed for now in case there are any issues). Readjusted the coil bracket to give more room for the plug No.1:

Nice catch can, appreciate the response with a picture!

Thanks! I will put the reflective tape on mine. What about your PCV configuration and the oil catch can?

Hi @madkaw , a few questions on your install. 1. I went through your posts (thanks for posting your progress, very educational) and you mentioned that your MAP sensor had been hosed due to excessive oil inside. You are running the hose from your valve cover breather to pre-throttle position like a stock Datsun design. I assume you kept your stock crank case to the intake PCV. You wanted to attach an oil catch can to that hose? Did you end up doing it and if you did, can you share some pictures? Have you noticed any more oil accumulation inside your protunerz intake/throttle area? 2. Any issues with the headers' heat affecting the intake/overall under the hood temperatures? Some guys use reflective sticky tape at the bottom of their intakes (one guys claims a 10F drop, not sure how effective this is going to be). Have you considered installing a heat shield similar to the stock Datsun one? Thanks!

Thanks, madkaw. I might be able to squeeze by with these injectors. I will test them. If they run too rich, I will start looking for a set of cheap smaller injectors. I need to start documenting the progress otherwise I just procrastinate. Last week-end I made the coil bracket out of 2 chevy truck ones (came off LM7 truck), they overlapped nicely to get an idea where to cut/weld together. Fit mock-up, I might need to move it to the right side to align spark plugs better: The coils will be grounded to the bracket to the welded bolt behind, the bracket is bolted on the right side to the cylinder head (black wire, ground to engine block). The coil bank connector will be attached to the same location as where Chevy put it originally (left side, there is a clip between coil 5 and 4). The 1st cylinder's spark plug is too close to the coil, will have to lift the bracket up by 1-1.5 inches to make the spark plug wire fit. I ordered a set of spark plug wires to play around with: And a simple visio wiring diagram for the coil plugs:

Hi guys, I will be working on installing microsquirt v3 in my California edition '76 280z stock car which came with EGR/catalytic converter and an exhaust manifold. The car runs fine with the exception of typical lean conditions which gets resolved with a potentiometer pot. The plan is to do it in 2 stages: Stage 1 (getting "my feet wet" with learning to tune the car with TS): Milkfab's 36-1 wheel (crank pulley mounted) Microsquirt v3 + IAC stepper adapter LM7 truck ignition coils Pro Tunerz fuel rail (14mm) intake/throttle body/GM ICV 14point7 spartan 3 v2 wb keeping stock exhaust + LSU 4.9 high impedance injectors Stage 2 Headers + Turbo upgrade In my infinite wisdom I figured I would kill both birds, aka project stages, with one stone - and purchased the Bosch 440cc 'green giants' injectors EV1 (part 0280155968), length 65 mm, Long style. Flow: 43,5 PSI (3 bar) 430cc / min = 41 lb / h. My assumption was to use them on a stock engine, get a turbo installed later, and re-use them. I got a great deal on them and they are authentic Bosch. After reading the mega manual, now I am concerned about the idle pulse width issues and fighting over enrichment conditions running a stock L6 engine. I spent a lot of time going through this forum looking for anyone running similar injectors on an n/a engine and found that in almost all cases guys are running turbo engines with large injectors (supra injectors are popular). The stock engine needs 15 lbs/hr or 158cc injectors. Obviously the 440cc ones I got are a major overkill. Am I over stressing over the issue? Will i be able to tune these injectors for the time being? Or I should keep on looking for 190-200cc injectors on Stan Weiss's site at http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm ? I found a few leads by cross referencing the part numbers and what rockauto has in stock. A lot of GB reman and BWD ones. Do you have any recommendations? I'd like to keep 14mm/14mm top/base long, high impedance injectors, preferably Bosch. Thanks! Den

Hi Steve, I was wondering if you were able to try the GM IAC valve instead of the Jeep one? Any feedback? Originally I was planning to keep the Nissan's AAR valve due to its simplicity (heats up closing up) with a microsquirt, but I was never happy with its unpredictable behavior (especially when it is cold here in WI). I got the IAC stepper adapter module which EFI Source sells to go with a Jeep I6 4L IAC/ diyautotune's control body (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-4-0l-iac-valve/) and saw your post about switching over to a GM valve lol. I have a n/a '76 280z, no a/c, so the IAC is going to be used in an open loop, temperature controlled mode, for warm-ups only. Thanks! Den PS Do you still have your N42 intake?

I live in CA, in the summer the heat soaking is an issue for my 76. I installed a 79 fuel injector cooling fan/blower with a duct (ebay has some of them) hooked up to a $5 ebay timer/relay which keeps the fan going for 12 minutes after shut-off. I just wired a button inside the cab to turn it on. The little ebay timer/relay is rated at less than 1 amp so it is wired to trigger a bigger 15amp relay to operate the fan. It does help. Good luck with your project!

In the FSM, Engine Fuel section, check the adjustment of the Throttle Valve switch (or TPS). Under WOT, or acceleration the TPS provides fuel enrichment. Your back firing is possibly caused by the lean mixture.

I am running the same MSD fuel pump on my 76. I re-used the stock fuel pump mounting brackets which 'suspend' the pump away from the mounting plate. The MSD provided brackets do not quieten the vibrations as much as the stock designed by Datsun ones. Even if they are properly insulated with rubber. It is interesting that my old 1989 190e Mercedes had the same idea to suspend 2 fuel pumps on 4 rubber donuts to make them quiet. As the previous poster noted, the MSD pump does need to be in a lower than stock position to allow better suction. If the pump is having bad flow, it will make noises. I removed the stock dampener - I installed the inline electric fuel pressure sender with a gauge inside the cabin before and after (with and without the dampener). The fuel pressure was steady and didn't fluctuate in both cases. Once I saw that, I felt no guilt getting rid of the Datsun engineering Regards!

After swapping fusible links to the blade fuses per Blue's web site on my 76, in addition to the brake light relay, I also had the EGR solenoid's circuit being energized with the ignition key off. Maybe on yours, it is worth checking out as well? I had to re-wire it to allow the igntion key to deliver 12V.

Guys, excellent discussion re: the aluminum radiators. After reading this thread, I took my 3 core brass radiator to the local radiator shop that had been there for the past 18 years and had it recored for $90. A 2-year warranty left a warm feeling inside. The car never overheated here in Bakersfield, CA in 100F+, but I don't do any racing events. Aluminum ebay radiators are like lottery - sometimes you hit a quality product, sometimes not. I wish local places like AFCO in IA can make aluminum radiators for our 280z's. I have their unit in my 67 Camaro and for 180$ this was a piece of welding art. It still has a sticker "Made in US" ('with pride').

From a recent hot rod meeting. A friend of mine invited to bring my classic, didn't specifically ask for a 67 Camaro. I brought my 76 import

What kind of adhesive have you used on your interior (over doors) pieces? I bought a professional adhesive that comes in a can from the upholstery shop (either sprayable or applied with a brush), and now 10 months later, the vinyl trim started to detach . I am not sure if it is because of the 100F weather here or if I applied it in a wrong fashion. Regards!

I used the instructions and parts list from this site (posts my Tim65GT): http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/taurus-fan-wiring-problem.796649/ I saw the rx-7 thread when I was researching it and preferred Tim's setup. A used Taurus fan from a junk yard was $25. The most expensive parts were good relays (75amp), circuit breakers and 6 and 8 gauge wire. It took some time to fine tune the turning on/off fan mode via the potentiometers. The hand held laser temp gun helped a lot. My wife really disliked my lab in the kitchen though