darom

I used the instructions and parts list from this site (posts my Tim65GT): http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/taurus-fan-wiring-problem.796649/ I saw the rx-7 thread when I was researching it and preferred Tim's setup. A used Taurus fan from a junk yard was $25. The most expensive parts were good relays (75amp), circuit breakers and 6 and 8 gauge wire. It took some time to fine tune the turning on/off fan mode via the potentiometers. The hand held laser temp gun helped a lot. My wife really disliked my lab in the kitchen though

I used brand new Kia door weatherstripping. Even after tweaking the angle of the window door frames, there is a nice gap on the passenger side at the top part, and a slight gap on the driver's side. I saw someone's suggestion to use the HomeDepot's door stick-on weatherstripping to add that additional thickness to close those gaps. It would look ugly as heck, but functional. I'd rather not go that direction.

After the external to internal voltage regulator upgrade with a 280zx alternator, this relay is always energized, even with the key in off position. You will need to rewire it like draztik said. I have a 76 as well, and I had to rewire mine to avoid a potential battery drain.

PM'ed back. Thanks. Found the part.

I am looking for a 280z rear strut insulator in a decent condition. Mine is torn. Please let me know at simzealot AT gmail dot com. Thanks! Denis

I had big holes cut in mine by the PO. I found a local upholstery guy who re-did the panels on my 76. No speaker holes, nice clean look. I would look for a 76 set (good or bad), you can always re-do the panels. If you found one, you can sell your 78 panels to finance your upholstery expenses.

If I were to go with these calipers, what year/car model do I need to give to the parts sales man to get replacement pads? Or if I were to rebuild these calipers (stage 3 or 4), which kit do I need to get? Can anyone identify the car make these parts come from? Thanks!

Rob, I am going to take a guess that the main grounding wire for the ECU is either broken and is making a poor contact. It runs from the ECU harness, goes through the f/w grommet on the LH side, then goes up along with the windshield wiper hoses and ends at the negative battery post. I am assuming this is how it is setup on your 78. Mine is 76 and I haven't checked the 78 FSM yet. The battery negative cable has a quick disconnect connector for the ECU wire which is usually in a pretty sad condition from being bent all the time while you disconnect your neg. cable. What I did on mine is to route the ECU negative wire to the starter negative bolt. The neg. battery cable goes into the same spot. Now I can disconnect the battery negative cable without disturbing the ECU's cable. Download the Fuel Injection Book, and run some tests for the control unit ground circuits: pages 57-60. Regards!

The switch is definitely worn, but usable. It is probably all gummed up with dirt and old grease. Once you clean it, put some dielectric grease there. Don't forget to clean all metal contacts.

Take apart your turn signal/light combo switch, clean all contacts. There are threads here on how to do it. Take apart your hazard light switch and do the same. You can use electric contact cleaner. Let us know the results afterwards. Regards!

Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner (not the brake cleaner!) around and see when the RPMs will pick up? It sounds like the vacuum leak comes from the intake manifold gasket. I would also check the EGR valve which gets activated when the engine is hot (it should be closed at idle). FSM shows the tests how to check its operation. You can also do the 'yogurt cup' testing that FastWoman used on classiczcars. Basically, you remove the intake rubber boot, put the yogurt cup with a small hole right into the intake opening, and pressurize your intake with compressed air (25-30 psi should do it). Then you just listen for escaping air. This is easier since the engine is off and there are no extra noises. Regards!

Another vote for the cast iron manifolds. I put a 383 with comp eng. headers (I painted them with VHT) in my 67 Camaro and wished I had just installed the exhaust manifolds. In my humble opinion, some of their disadvantages have been already mentioned: - heat - hard to reach/replace spark plugs - special routing of the spark plug wires to protect them from getting melted - whole bulkiness of the headers filling up the engine bay interfering with the power steering unit - requirement to have special header lock bolts to prevent them from getting loose My headers were painted, after 5 years they finally started to show the signs of internal rust. 350/383 engines have plenty of torque for a small car like 240/280z. The additional headers' 20-30 hp won't do you much good unless you are into racing and every millisecond counts. Regards! PS Forgot to add - the exhaust manifolds are dirt cheap! You probably can find some for $15-20 on craigslist.

What are your plans for drainage holes on each side at the top part of the hatch? My 76 came with the same sun roof monstrosity. I patched mine with a bigger piece of the donor's roof. Regards!

dhp, once mounted, does the vinyl side trim go under them, correct? Or is there another plastic piece that connect the pillar with the back dome light piece? Thanks!

Awesome, thanks for the tip! I will send you a PM. Thanks.

Hi guys, I am looking for some ideas in regards to 76 interior pieces. I did something illogical: - painted the car and installed the windshield glass - and later, bought the "How to restore a Datsun" book to find out that the darn windshield rubber gasket is a part of the inside trim!!! I am contemplating to glue as close as I can to the gasket the side pillar vinyl pieces, however since I won't be able to stretch the vinyl, most likely the whole job is going to look sloppy. The same applies to the front sun-visor's piece. Is there any car I can junk yard interior plastic pieces to match the Datsun's internal lines? I wouldn't mind to drill a few mounting holes to hold them. Would later 1980s 280zx pieces fit the earlier model? Is there any company that makes fiberglass trim? I can ask Derek who does the speaker pods, but I don't believe the demand is out there for these parts. Any ideas? Thanks! Denis

CamH, see attached. Hopefully this helps to pick the right carpet kit for your car (sorry guys, I am a newbie in Photoshop to make the pictures look smaller when you click on them).

I bought Chester and Herod 280z carpet kit 1.5 year ago and just this week started installing it. Overall, I am quite disappointed with its quality: 1. The back rear deck carpet is too big to fit, the edges are sewn which I don't feel like cutting unless I take care of these edges later myself. The luggage strap areas didn't align correctly. 2. The front section of the carpet should have had the back side 'skirts' included to cover the whole door sill area nicely, instead of having 2 separate pieces which overlap each other. 3. The same applies to the middle tunnel section. I will have to overlap the front with the middle section to get even look. It came with jute padding which wasn't glued on, I am in the process of gluing the jute padding to the back of the carpet (overkill, probably). The side skirts were included, but cut in such a rushed fashion, I am still scratching my head how to make it look clean. I also asked them to cut me rectangular pieces to put under the seats. For additional $22, I got two pieces, with one side which had edge sewn, the rest weren't. I am wondering why they couldn't get the other 3 sides to finish. Lazy? The cost was $325 shipped. I should have done better research. Sorry about venting here, but I also had a carpet installed years ago in my 67 Camaro, and that was a piece of modern marvel: it was molded, all edges were sewn creating a nice edge, thick with padding jute glued. It fit like a glove. It was one piece for the front and middle tunnel sections which hid the back seat carpet area overlap. It does make it more difficult to install, but it allows to create a smooth 'complete' look to it. This Datsun carpet seems to be too thin, I am afraid it will start disintegrating in a year or so. I think after I am done test fitting/cutting it, I will take it to the local upholstery shop to add the missing sewn edges to better reinforce it. Regards!

Hehe, i would go for 'blitz black' paint. Flat as it gets.

I installed struts part number 4777, the same as jhm's. I wish the vendors would come up with a system to designate their load capacity.

I replaced both on my 76 with these struts. Unfortunately they were so stiff that I couldn't close the hatch without considerable effort or breaking the mounts. I ended up keeping my old strut with a new one.

Check out your local John Deere store for some spray cans. You can get their paint in smaller/gallon cans as well. The stuff is very durable (they use that paint on their tractors). The color choice is limited though.

Good job on the whole restoration, Andy! A few comments if you allow: - I would have installed the electric oil pressure sending unit with the later year oil pressure gauge (or aftermarket). I never felt comfortable having oil/fuel lines running inside of the vehicle. If you decide to go that route, don't forget to order NPT to British NPT adaptor for the Datsun block. - To save time and money making your custom gauge panels, try finding a plastic shop in town which sells plexiglass panels. They are cheap, thick and can be bent when heated. They are easily cut and come in different colors. My favorite is the black finish with the same pattern as the Datsun interior panels. No need to sand and re-apply multiple layers of fiberglass . With best regards! Denis

John, Thanks for a helpful hint. The offset is 1". Without rolling the fenders, I guess I won't be able to fit them in the back. I will keep on looking for the right set.

I am seeking advice if I should buy these rims/tires for my 1" dropped 76 280z (Eibachs/HPs combo). The price is right, the tires are almost brand new. The seller mentioned that these rims used to be mounted on his brother's 2" dropped 1982 280zx turbo. 1" off-set. The tire size is 225 50/15. I'd like _not_ to roll the fenders. I have a MSA type2 in the front, but my biggest concern is the rears. The car is in the paint shop. I appreciate any suggestions. Thanks in advance, Denis '76 280z - under construction