Kirkster

Yes Pink is hot if you have a factory pigtail. I built mine from scratch and I though that the D581 coils were LS1 coils. It seems that the D581 coils are wired as LS2 coils, at least that is what I am seeing on the internet and everyone knows that the internet is always right. Metro, I have seen those two illustrations and agonized over them more than a few times, it is wired as a LS1 coil today but I am pretty sure the D581 coils wire as LS2 at least for right now. Hopefully I have not blown them up...

The more research I do the more it looks like I need to have the coils wired for the LS2 setup... Which means my coils are wired backwards. Grrr... RTz's post on the coil bracket has this picture and it shows the red wire on the outside which I think is the power wire... Oh, one more link on the coils... http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1556858-d581-coil-wiring.html

Have everything done on the 240Z project besides wiring in the O2 Sensor. Went to verify timing and seem to be having a problem with the coil circuit blowing the fuse. With all the coil packs disconnected it does not blow the fuse. But once I hook up a couple of them it blows the fuses. The only thing that I can think of is that I have the coil packs wired backwards. The only other thing might be where I am pulling my 12 volts to trigger the coil circuit relay, which is coming from the power bus from the injectors and fuel pump circuit. Here is what my coil packs look like wired up. And a close up of the plugged in connector from the above photo... And here is my ignition setup in Megasquirt Any Ideas?

I saw that on Facecock. Nice write up...

Thanks for the links. I guess I have some more head scratching to do...

My car is no longer running one coil. I am using LS1 coils and am guessing I have to drive the tach from the megasquirt output. So what is the popular Autometer 5 inch that looks closest to the factory tach? K

Ok, So being a Newb to the 240Z scene and building mine up to be an autocross and track toy I am now looking at what to do about the tach. So if money was no object what would you replace your factory tach with that still fits in the factory location and easily interfaces with the tach output from a MS3-pro which is a 12 volt square wave? I have this thing pretty close to running now and am tying up the loose ends. K

How did the dyno turn out????

Ok so in your photos I see the Megasquirt cables running through the firewall. so you soldered everything in the engine bay not the passenger compartment. Correct?

well it is running... I am wiring my MS3 Pro right now. Just finished with all of the sensors except the O2 sensor which I have laying in a box on the work bench right now. I am running a crank and optical dizzy for the sequential injection and sequential LS1 coils. I am just now looking at where to solder the MS wiring harness to all of my custom wiring as my car had no sensors before since it was a 73 240Z. Looking forward to hearing how things are going...

Well, After a long winter working on suspension and brakes and such I have finally got a motor in the car and have all the sensors, injectors, coils, and other stuff wired. I have all the wires running to the passengers side of the car. So where are people joining the ECU harness to the engine bay wiring??? I currently have enough slack to take the wires through the firewall but am not sure if I should do that or just take the Megasquirt wiring harness through the firewall and then solder things together in the engine bay...

Nice write up. I am about to do my install for my MS3-Pro and was wondering how to do the wiring... Did you end up doing a relay to control the fan? Are you using the MS to control your fan? Cheers K

Yes, they are the wide flares. I also have the normal flares but don't know which ones I will finally put on. The wheels are a little tucked in with the wide flares. I went with 18X10s all the way around with a 5.5 inch backspacing... Though for sure I would need a spacer up front but even with the 285/30 Hoosier A6 the tire is not rubbing the springs or suspension.

So it has been a while since an update happened... I have been busy but have not put anything up here. So first things first the Wilwoods are on all four corners. Still have to finish sorting out the Arizona Z Car parking brakes. While I still had it on the stands I figured it was time to drop the gas tank. Of course all of the lines were dry rotted and I have ordered new ones. The tank is fairly rust free, just a little surface rust on the top which I will take care of once I Red-Kote the tank. My buddy who had this car was never able to get it to get clean fuel and seeing the bottom of the tank I can understand why... The issue is this... I have banged out a lot of this stuff, I figure that the gas that was in it in 1984 turned to sludge that subsequently hardened. More has been coming out when bang on the tank every weekend, not as much now but still some chunks. Not sure what I am going to do to finish cleaning out the tank. Not sure if I want to go to muriatic acid yet. Will try out Super Purple first and see how it does. Next up was the wheels. Well after lots of talking to a few very knowledgable autocrossers and car builders for autocrossing they finally talked me into 18s. So I ordered up a set of 18X10s on Dec 31st... And yes those are the Marugen Shoukai ZG flares as I did not want to fool with the ill fitting flares that are floating around... I still need to get some photos up in the Marugen thread in the group buy section... I spend most of last night reading Mike Kelly's build thread so I will be putting these up pretty high as I have to have wheel travel to accommodate 18 inch wheels (pretty much the same ones MiKelly is running except mine are classics) Big thanks for posting up those details MiKelly. I was super stoked that when I put them on the car there was no rubbing on the suspension (I had figured on needing half inch spacers in the front), the fronts do rub on the front edge of the front fender and I will have to trim that when I do the fender flares. but other than that no fitment issues. I may have some weird toe issues in rear and the front definitely needs an alignment but that will come once I have the car running. Seaking of getting things running. I have been cleaning up the 77 280Z motor and stripping all of the emissions crap off of the engine as well as the fan and whatnot... I am still waiting on my buddy to ship me the 82-83 dizzy he has on the shelf, as well oil pump / dizzy shaft that is eluding him at the moment. I have a center force clutch and a fidanza lightweight flywheel to finish off the transmission. Then it will be time to start putting all of this stuff into the car along with the 77 280 motor. I have spent a lot of time reading the MS3-Pro manual and trying to figure it all out. I have my work cut out for me in wiring this up as I have no clue what I am doing when it comes to getting power from the ignition key I am sure I will be posting up some questions in the future in the EMS section of the forum, especially when it comes time to get the base map figured out... It is getting exciting seeing things come together and hopefully be on the road in a month or so for some autocrosses. Now it just has to get warm here so I can coat the fuel tank with Red-Kote. Plus there are a ton of little details waiting to bite me in the ass of that I am sure...

Thanks for the input guys... Talked to DIYAutoTune. They were telling me that the VR would not work (too many triggers). Fortunately I have a buddy with a few of the 83/83 optical Dizzys laying around and have him shipping one as well as the oil pump / dizzy shaft... Seems he takes them out and puts the 82 VR Dizzy in instead, go figure...

So opening an old post on Sequential... I have a crank trigger wheel but everything I have been reading seems to be pointing me to having a cam sensor of some type. I have a friend that gave me an old VR dizzy. Will this be a problem to make it the cam sensor? I know I will have to lock out the vacuum adjustment to make sure that the dizzy does not try and advance or retard the ignition.

Nice...

I am about to start bodging something together for my car. I will also be pulling the ebrake towards the rear of the car. Wish there was a cleaner solution. Maybe I will fab one up, but that exhaust clamp idea looks pretty simple. K

I did pull out all the old grease. I just did not pack tons of grease in the space between the two bearing races inside the hub.

I have a friend that was the first to do it in 1995. he is running mid 10s in the 1/4 mile... Just talked to him and he has a spare set of motor mounts around...

Since the strut is now shorter I find it very easy to unbolt the two strut bolts on the bottom and swing the strut out and adjust it with a screw driver. Not as easy as hoped, but a 5 minute job on each side of the car.

Well it has been a while since an update. I have been busy. I have the struts sectioned and my brakes from Arizona Z cars finally showed up. My welder took a while but finally came through. If you look closely you can see my boo boo. I don't know where I had a math/measurement error. I knew the total length should be 14.9ish inches but somehow I cut too much out and some how I got 14 inches. I even measured it again after thinking I was cutting an awful lot out of the top section of the strut. Well I got an extra weld in... but it all came out ok. Got them all painted up and started with the fronts. Next up was starting on the front hubs nice ARP studs pressed in. Little did I know that I should have pressed in the bearing races first to make things easier. So here are the Wilwoods in all their glory. I got the parking brakes but not sure about the cables yet. I picked up a set of bearing and seal pushers. Was not too sure about the set but for 30 bucks what could go wrong. So putting in the studs too soon made me work a bit harder to get the bearing races pushed in as I now had to contend with the extra long studs. So I got the Wilwoods bolted to the strut but then ran into an issue where the hex cap on the brake caliper itself was a 9mm. I do not have a 9mm hex socket or even a 9mm hex key. So it was on to another part of the project. My OS Giken came a couple of weeks ago but I ran into the dreaded 110mm ring gear on my old 3.54 diff out of an auto 240Z. So after getting a couple of scammers trying to sell me Diffs for 400 bucks on other sites I found blue72 had an auto diff out of a part out car and he got it shipped to me. But as I was in the middle of the strut project I did not get to it till last week. Then figured out that I needed to get a new set of bearings and that took a week also. I pressed on both bearings and if I had it to do over I would only press on one bearing, as I had a bunch of difficulty getting the bigger OS Giken with both bearings pressed on into the diff housing, but I finally managed it. I put new oil seals on for the output shafts and O-rings on the inside of the side covers and have a new gasket for the diff cover. So I will put that on and get it all buttoned up and ready to swap the rear diff and get all the new bushings put in at the same time. One question, I have never worked with non sealed bearings. There was a TON on old grease in the space between the bearings in the front hub. I throughly packed the bearings and liberally greased the spindle but did not add a bunch of grease between the bearings. Is this just a bunch of buildup that people don't clean out between re-greasing their bearings?

Found one... Thanks all...

Need a Diff with a 115mm ring gear. from the research it looks like they 115mm ring gear only became available on the 77 and newer cars. Would really like to find one out of an automatic as I am looking for a 3.54 gear ratio... Cheers K

Ouch... you got a dose of my luck...