Kirkster

My 240 BSP car weighed in at 2303 with the gas tank filled to 3/4 full and 18X10 CCWs with 285 hoosiers. Not a lot left to take out that I can see right away... I am already running a light flywheel and pressure plate. Running headers, and the group buy intake (which is going to get swapped out for something with longer runners). I will see what I can get done for a reasonable price from Rebello's and DatsunSpirit and pull the trigger on that soon.

Well my 75 N42/N42 lost compression in cylinder #4 so it is time to pull it and do a rebuild. Unfortunately since I am racing this car in SCCA Solo B Street Prepared there is not a whole lot I can do to it. The cam has to stay factory. I can bore the block .0472 over which is basically the 1mm oversized pistons and they have to be the dished variety to keep it legal I can also deck the head to factory specified limits or .010 if there is nothing in the 75 factory workshop manual about limits on the decking of the head. Finally I can port match the intake and exhaust 1 inch into the head. And that is it per the rules. Now I have two ways I can do this. One is by finding a machine shop to do the work on the block and head and I put it all back together with the 1mm oversized pistons. The other is buy a motor built to these specs or send mine in to have the work done. I have looked at Rebello for a new motor, and I also engaged Datsunspirit and will see how they each price out. Any suggestions on where I can get reliable machine work done in the Mid Atlantic? Or should I just go with Rebello or Datsunspirit? Why am I doing all this work on a stock motor? For two reasons. One to prove to the Solo Rules committee that the car is underpowered for the class (I don't expect to see much over 170whp with a fully built to the rules motor and my competitors are all 250hp+ cars even though I am 600 pounds lighter than the 300whp 350Z and only 100 pounds lighter than the 240whp Mazda Speed Miata that spanked the entire class this year). The second is to support my bid to get all of the Z cars from 1970 ~ 83 on the same line so I can put a L28et motor in the car which would be much more competitive with the class (and probably still underpowered since I would have to use the factory turbo). You have much more credence to get rules changed when you build the car which I have already done.

Ok.... Here is my motor prior to May. The setup 1975 N42/N42 bone stock Megasquirt 3Pro for the brains LS1 coils for coil on plug Custom Intake from the group buy (Would be great for a turbo build but is just meh for NA as the runners ended up being too short, though it flowed well) 44LB RC Injectors (will be playing with E85 next year). 83 optical cam sensor for cam trigger so I could run full sequential injection and spark MSA 6-1 header with 2.5 inch exhaust With this Setup we were at 158hp... The Bad Just before Solo Nationals we put it back on the Dyno to try and figure out why it felt so down on power. only 112hp... we got it up to 141hp and called it good enough to race... #4 cylinder is down to 110psi where the rest of the cylinders are at 160~170. Put a little oil in the number 4 cylinder and compression was 210psi so it is the rings.

If the stock Dizzy gets to painful you can always mount a trigger wheel on the crank and go cheap COP setup. You would just be doing bank on bank firing without the Optical Dizzy... I was too far into mine so the extra money for the optical dizzy was just a drop in the bucket at that point.

My mega squirt does it all for me...

Well what ever happened? I have mine up and running... All ready to drive the snot out of next year (at least once I get some race seats).

I used a Spal 30102029 12" Swept Blade Fan. My build is topping out at 260whp right now. It is an autocross car and I am beating on it and The Spal fan is working very well. It is off center of the radiator as it was just too close to the water pump for my liking. I guess it has a side benefit of blowing air over the exhaust headers.... I have it set to turn on a 185° at the moment and when I look at the logs I don't see it much over 200°

http://blipshift.com/products/dat-sun?utm_source=blipshift+Updates&utm_campaign=7384d93c86-Dat_Sun9_16_2014&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_0513fd2cb9-7384d93c86-345824541&mc_cid=7384d93c86&mc_eid=56a9463a41

Heh. Neither will radios... Tried it with 5 watt hand held radios and we were underwhelmed. Worked great on the way too and from the Dragon but not so well when you were in the mountains...

It is easier in the long run. One thing to wire up and set vs. mounting the crank trigger wheel and then fabbing a sensor bracket to hold the hall sensor. And then needing an optical dizzy for the cam sensor anyway... If you do go the way of the optical dizzy you will need the oil pump shaft as well as the Dizzy it is very easy to install the oil pump shaft... I had an original optical dizzy and then had problems with the electronics in it due to a flaw in the original sensor board and I just bought a reman one as I was out of time to fix the old one... Good luck with the build and feel free to PM me...

I got it rinsed out to the point that after five one gallon shake and dumps I was not getting any more debris out of the tank. The tank was Red-Koted before I put fuel in the system so it was clean and ready to go. Put a couple gallons of fuel in it and took it to the gas station 5 miles away and put another 4 gallons in it. Did some aggressive slaloming back from the gas station and there was no change in the fuel pump noise so hopefully this will take care of it. Before I rinsed out the tank the slaloming just to and from the close gas station would just about plug the filter and make the fuel pump very loud... I will do some more driving around this weekend and check the filter if the fuel pump gets noisier. Will also probably change the filter before the next autocross and see how it is...

Lawrence, New coils (D581) will run 240 bucks Coil bracket would run 55 bucks. http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt93862/pd2109473/CUSTOM_L6__INDVIDUAL_COIL_PACK_BRACKET_ The plug wires will run 90 bucks if you get the magnecor wires that fit the bracket to plug length perfectly. I ended up plugging my water hose outlet and running a T from the lower radiator hose to the heater core. Now as far as the trigger wheel... That really depends on what you want to do for the EMS... I just finished a full sequential build for injection and coils running a megasquirt. It can easily support a turbo later... If you decide that you want to run a megasquirt you may want to look at picking up an optical dizzy and the proper oil pump shaft as that is the only way to get the cam trigger easily. The optical dizzy also has the benefit of having the crank trigger also if you decide to run the DIYAutotune trigger wheel for it so you would not need a crank trigger. (I have a crank trigger but knowing what I know now I would just do the optical dizzy for both...) Welcome to the adventure.

Well I ordered the 480CCA battery. will let you all know how it goes... K

Well she went on the Dyno this weekend. She then went to the autocross on sunday and we had some fun. After 10 months of wrenching it was nice to drive the car. Well except for the fuel filter that I had to clean between the 2nd and 3rd runs and the fact that the battery strap broke on my last run causing the car to stop running when the battery hit some wires in my terminal block and caused the fuel pump/injector relay to blow its fuse... I coasted it into the grid and safely off course. we then found the battery problem and I immediately knew that the lack of fuel pump noise meant that the fuse was probably blown, and it was when I pulled it out, we changed it with the Fan fuse and it started right up and we loaded it up on the trailer before the engine got hot... Now to get rid of that nice vintage wood steering wheel...

Anyone running a Lithium Nano-Phosphate battery? I am looking at getting one to run the car for auto crossing. I have used them in my bikes for a few years. The KTM 690 that I went across the country on the Trans America Trail with held up fine so I am not really worried about the durability of the battery as far a shakes and shock. More about the size of the battery that I will need. I am looking at a 480 CCA and 22Ah and 16 cells. 5lbs I am also looking at a 360CCA and 12Ah and 12 cells. 3lbs Anyone running these in a 240Z (I have a 240 with a 280Z motor in it). Cheers K

Been a while since the last update... If not for Tony D I would not be nearly this close to done.. Will be heading down to the tuner this coming Saturday. Hope to get 200hp out of it... So right about 10 months ago I started. Have a friend doing my hood tomorrow (he owns a painting company). Will try and get an alignment this week and will try and hit an autocross this coming Sunday...

I would like to say that I soldered it up and fixed it, but I just could not get it de gooped enough to solder the pins up. So I ordered a reman one and it came with the new style sensor. That fixed the problem. No sync loss at all any longer. She finally runs well enough to get her to the tuner.

Ok. When I had it at a .75MM gap between the sensor and the trigger wheel I got no signal. At a 1mm gap from the trigger wheel I had some trigger loss. At 1.5mm gap from the trigger wheel I had perfect signal. At 1.75mm gap from the trigger wheel I had no signal... So you may need to dial in the sweet spot on your sensor... At least I had to do that...

I was going through the same thing and had to back my sensor out even further. I am at around 1.5mm and no longer get sync loss now, at 1.75mm I got no signal. So I played with it till I got good sync...

NewZed. It ran fine for the first 22 seconds then cut out for 4 seconds then ran for 1 second then cut out for 3 seconds and ran for 1 second then cut out for 17 seconds then ran for a second then cut out for 4 seconds then ran for 1 second then cut out for ten seconds then ran fine for 4 seconds... Then at the end of the log file it was ok for a while. cgsheen. That is exactly what seems to be happening. I pulled the optical module and it seems that the four pins you are talking about are protruding from the epoxy bedding. The four pins that just seem to be tack welded together in two spots for each pin? They are the only pins that are above the epoxy right above the connector. I will solder them and put it back in the car and see what happens...

Well I have it up and "running" finally. Besides the spider in fuel line that clogged my original filter (which was also too fine) I remedied that with a 100 micron filter with a removable element and the need to figure out the IAC valve things are going pretty good My only other issues is that my Optical Dizzy seems to be cutting out. I get signal and it works ok for a while but then it just drops the signal then comes back on a bit later... Here is a composite log. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/100607326/2014-07-07_16.36.50.csv I am not currently running any noise filtering in my MS3Pro. The guy I am going to be taking it to for tuning wants me to verify that it is working correctly, and wants me to put a scope on it. Of course I don't have a scope and would not know what to do with one if I did... Any Ideas guys?

It was wired as LS1 coils. Wired as LS2 coils and no problems. All is good.

Good news. I have spark on all 6 cylinders and did not burn up my coils. It should run today..

RTz helped me out a bunch, he sent me this picture today Pink wire is hot. They are definitely wired as LS2 coils. Now I can fix my wiring and hopefully fire this baby up today or tomorrow after I check my timing. Thanks guys...

Hell of a first post. Hope you recover it soon...