nzarano

I was away for the weekend and had a shop install a full legalis system on my '73 240z and it fits like sh1t.... the muffler is low and to the left, the whole thing is low, and the first resonator bit doesnt sit snug, the actual header hits the crank vent....wondering what modifications people have done to make it fit or if there is an installation order of operation/ tips and tricks to make it fit? The 2nd image where the first resonator (or whatever it is?) shows where i think all the issues start, but not sure how thats supposed to be made to fit.... Looked around and everyone seems to think its supposed to fit the way it comes.... Quite annoyed

look into some motorsport anti vibration (AV) mounting. Pretty much just grommets on bolts but if they can survive in race cars they can survive most things...ifused properly!

will definitely be messaging you for info as i doing an na to turbo conversion and planning on going this route... its simple enough but powerful enough but not extremely well documented for the Z which has me a bit on edge.... do you have any xl files or other planning documents youve used? I want to make sure i get all the right sensors etc and theyre all compatible and someone has maybe used them (so a comprable basemap can maybe be had...) Building a motorsport grade harness (or trying.. deutsch connects are crazy expnseive!) so once I have a list of components can start mapping a loom and stuff! Glad to see someone doing this, looking forward to updates

would you ship it to the east coast?

Noticed that compressor brackets were hard to come by or expensive for Sanden and newer style compressors, would people be interested in these? Need like 10 people to get them made probably

guaging interest....I have access to a high volume and high end production facility, would people be interested in these cranks? these would be brand new... could potentially be forged or billet...

has anyone used the silvermine kit? its priced and looks oddly similar to the CRX racing kit... Ive bought stuff from silvermine before and had no qualms but it has caught my attention that a bunch of their stuff looks similar (albeit a bit ...cheaper?) to other companies. Seems like a good price but at this point just want to make sure for 100$ more or something I wouldnt be better off with a different kit

title says it all...currently have header to 2.5" all the way back to a 10"x6" oval muffler that has 2x3" exits and its jsut hard to keep a conversation in the car on the highway....

there are a bunch of different ways to do a parallel hybrid system but honestly the starter motor on the 240z is super old ive seen motors that size these days be able to put 20-30hp + out. If using capacitors for quick burts then your power pack can be fairly light and you can get a good advantage on power to weight also while increasing overall efficiency would need: the motor some inverter / ac/dc dc/dc or whatever converters are needed based off your power source, regen, and your motor energy storage batery/cap management potentially some sensors and other stuff to make sure everything plays nice if its capacitors might not even need a charging circuit. think the hardest part right now would be making sure it all plays nice and maybe making a clutch for it, these days you can find motors that can operate in so many different conditions, if the right one is found and an adapter and potentially a clutch and a grear box might need to be made.... vonnen does a cool kit for porsches where they pretty much integrate everything into the bell housing. this would be a way cooler peice of kit, but could cost quite a bit more and be more complicated to develope.

Been trying to look around and havent found much....has anyone tried turning their z into a hybrid? (figured this was the right place for ittaking a class on electric vehicles thouht the possibility was intesting.... you have enough space where the starter is to design something that could add some power directly to the flywheel... with capacitors and a regen system could be fairly light and good fun. looking to see if anyone has done something like this for the L-series or similar engine and car thank you!

messaged

has anyone tried making their own exhaust similar to the legalis r? I have a header similar to the pace setter that goes 3-2-then a y pipe 1 to.... was thinking y out again to two pipes (size recommendations?) then an x pipe muffler then 2 lines to a final circular muffler.... i currently have header straight into 3" pipe with a resonater which is halfway along the driveshaft, then a magnaflow or knock off magnaflow from a local exhaust shop with a signle 2 3/4" i think inlet and 2 2" or so outlets and no tips... it sounds pretty good but it drones and i cant hold a conversation in the car ever even with some dynamat under the carpets.... I just want an exhaust thats sub 3-400 ish (i can fab stuff if need be) that i can hold a conversation while cruising, even if i have to talk slightly louder, but also have a sweet exhaust note any input appreciated! thank you edit: spelling

flat surface is ideal, however with ball transfers and level these can compensate slightly.....they can also come with load sensors to do corner weights. For caster turn in plates do help but arent necessary. these can help with measuring caster as well. really help with all measruements if you use them right. theyre used by most racing teams because theyre quick, easy, and dont take up alot of space

exactly this! my designs were made for a race team to help make toe, camber, etc adjustments quickly. We can change set up 3 times a day during testing and they can be quite different set ups. probably only for people tracking their car that wants better accuracy than standard at home adjustment methods and dont want to have to pay someone to adjust their suspension.

i have a set of dished pistons from a 280 used but has rings, came from working car message me can have them shipped tomorrow!

would anyone be interested in set up wheels for their z? I am currently desgining some for a race car and the design is quite adjustable and would work with a z quite well.... dependson your hubs and what you want but feel free to message me for info on prices and designing to your spec and needs! They look like a cross between these and these They will be laser cut (or water jet still working out...) aluminum or steel depending on want and need and supplied with ball transfers for the feet and proper hardware, the system has been designed in cad, tested in real life and also tested in FEA to ensure that they wont buckle and hardware is adequete. I can add logos or labels on them as well. comment or message me if youre interested they make adjusting your suspension a breeze! edited to say i can add logo

Car was running, went away to school came back and car still runs but no clutch pedal all of a sudden.... got under the car the slave cylinder moves when clutch is pressed. moves about 1/2" it looks like. open slave cylinder there was fluid. couldnt see any obvious leaks... where could issue be from? press the clutch pedal and theres no resistance and it wont go into gear. any ideas would be wonderful thanks!

any updates on this? been running some aero on bluff bodies with a basic front end config to get some info but would love mroe detailed models

first off get a laptime simulator ( more than willing to help with this / offer my services...) see what the car is capable of doing on the track with the inputs see if it really is car or you..... see what difference is then start by optimizing car for said track.... optimimum lap is a great start. dont throw money at things you think could be the problem without knowing what it actually is.... can easily find the cg of a car, and a rough estimiate of torsional stiffness and mass dist at home with some help. plug that and suspension into simulator see what it spits out. then start tweaking car, some software can tell where improvements can be made others cant... at end of the day picking up a book on vehicle dynamics is never a bad idea. more than happy to help a fellow z owner!

cfd has finished running for some situations today, but have not had time to crunch numbers and look at the results.... due to time crunch and lack of design files what i have in terms of cad is pretty basic. However alot of the theories of air being sucked up or getting stuck that have been mentioned should be at least visible or disproven based off findings.... I am hoping that the cross member is low enough that with the profile selected it does not kick up air too much. Obviously hood louvers would help and some radiator ducting work could be beneficial.... due to time crunch the cfd does not have a porous media / heat transfer set up for radiator so that will be for a later day.... Improvements would come from adding the radiator, a front opening similar to the grill, the fan, and holes in rimes to generate vortecies.... this however ups the computational power and time required. For now hoping to see how much downforce a small wing in that area can produce, what can maybe lead to it producing more downforce, and then if its a good idea and the numbers look good maybe continue down the path. Anyone whose done cfd on these cars any data, info, testing would be appreciated! suspicions and thoughts are all well and good but areo is always more complicated then it looks

hey I would love to talk about what you guys did and what youre findings and data looked like!! this looks super cool, wish i had my z here for testing...

current idea is to cover the steering rack with a wing profile.... wont change the look of the car, and its bolt on which is good, also simple to model

Hello Hybridz! I am doing a masters in motorsport engineering and need to do a ground vehicle aerodynamics project and have one idea for another vehicle but my heart is always with datsuns..... one idea i have for datsuns is is it possible to reduce front lift without a front spoiler that changes the look of the car.... im open to other ideas and if anyone has cad files of the car I can run through CFD and then maybe 3d print to get in the tunnel would also be much appreciated! let me hear your ideas!

new wheel cylinder in, brakes bled, now pedal is too spungy but still has hissing.... might rebleed

so today went to work on car, found slight leak from bottom of master that was easily fixed by a quarter turn of the fitting, then go to bleed the master again, then take wheel off to bleed rears, hit brake pedal and boom goes the wheel cylinder.... mystery on pause awaiting new wheel cylidners