Midri

DON'T RUN 12V TO ANY OF YOUR PINS! If you're using one of the older Arduinos you can run up to 5v to those pins or 3.3v on the new Dues. You're going to fry that board if you're not using a voltage ladder to step the cars 0v-14v (yes 14v whilst running) down to 0v-5v You're also going to need to use a voltage doubler to get 0v-10v out of the 5v outputs on an older arduino or 2 doublers to get 13.2v out of the new boards outputs. One last thing, remember the amperage constraints of the Arduino, you've only got like 200mAh on all output pins combined with a 20mAh (they're rated for a max of 40mAh, but getting that much has been inconsistent for me) limit per pin. Those older gauges are going to suck that up like a sponge. You're not going to be able to work more than 2 or 3 gauges at once without building a more complex driver system (multi channel led driver would work) and many gauges might not work at all. Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uDFOjg54TyM -- His 6 modern gauges require about 600mAh to run all of them, that's about 100mAh per gauge... or 5x what is rated for the Arduino per pin and 3x the amount of total current the Arduino can output.

Little late to the party, but toggling current does do damage to the contacts at high enough current. Tap a piece of wire that's getting 12v from your battery to a piece of metal that's grounded to the the same battery and you'll see them blow each other apart slowly over time (basically how an arc welder works) Constant current is better, if mechanical contacts are being used; if you're using a 555 timer (like the common non mechanical blinker relays are) you'll be fine though, they never physically disconnect the metal and instead use MOSFET which do not suffer from fatigue like metal on metal switches do. Bonus: Old blinker units (the kind that click) actually work via mechanical switch that switches back and forth based on internal temperature (relay gets hot, turns off, cools down, turns on, gets hot, turns of, etc) and that's why they tended to break after a while. They literally work by fatiguing the metal. Newer "digital" units use a circuit built around a 555 IC, a resistor, and a MOSFET. They can last forever if you don't get them too hot (which they won't do on their own)

So I was reading up on the forums about headlight swaps and I figured I might just stick to the originals for a while. I saw that Tony D. was running 100/130W H4 and that got me wondering, is anyone else using that high of a wattage bulb? Tony D, if you see this -- are you running stock wiring? I'd love to get the lumens, but I really don't want to burn my wiring harness out... again...

I just want to say I found reading this amusing and it's good to know that the indicator is wired in line with the headlights when I finally get around to messing with it.

Finally got the front air damn "fixed" and put back on. '78 complete ratsun, least we've got it running like a boss. Going to put a Franken'turbo engine we built in it next year.

Got my 25' installed, both doors with about 2 feet extra. My hatch seal is still... there so not worried about it, this car has not had proper weather stripping since I got it ;p Looks great, used black gasket sealer to adhere top parts, other parts seem to be staying put just being crimped in. Only comment I have, and since I've never had weather stripping this might be normal; is I have to give the doors a pretty decent slam otherwise they don't seem up all the way.

Just ordered 25' of it my self, will post my experience next week when I have it.

So I've had my 280z for a few years now and I've been battling with it having to high of an idle (would not get below 2000rpm in neutral, bccv and egrv were blocked off when I bought it) I recently started cleaning up intake (taking off egr and other stuff and sealing them with custom made plates and gaskets) the weird thing is the thing that brought my idles down was replacing the fuel rail with one from a zx. Now the car idles at a pretty consistant 500-600rpm, which is a tad bit low. If I adjust the idle air scew it causes the engine become very stuttery... not sure what could be the issue, fuel pressure maybe; we hooked the old fuel pressure valve that was in the original fuel rail into this one.

Pictures: https://www.facebook.com/tos.aspx/posts/10100466123427424 I'm going to be running a megasquirt 2 or 3, waiting on buying one until we get the engine cleaned up incase I happen to see one on craigslist or something

MSD ignition (know nothing about it, previous owner was using it before he totalled his 280zxt), Stock T3 turbo, Stock L28ET exhaust from block to turbo, same for turbo exit. The intake manifold I believe is stock L28ET too as it's an L28 intake with the POV. I know the pistons are dished, not sure if they're aftermarket or not -- look pretty new, Seems the head is the only part that is different. The 280zx this came out of may not have been a turbo originally though, he had a N/A 5 speed trany he used on it which I received as well.

So I found a L28ET that's been sitting out in a yard for a while, before that it was completely rebuilt, we're in the process of taking it apart to verify that. The Block is an F54 and the Head is an N47. The question is I have a N/A 280z right now that has a P30 Block and P79 Head. What, if any; would be the best combination of head/blocks for use with the turbo? I'm sure this L28ET has had a lot of weird stuff done to it, previous owner said it has an after market cam as well... so this will an interesting project.

I've tightened it as much as I can as far back as I can (I used a large crowbar to get it pushed all the way to the end of the adjustment arm) -- hell I even added a rubber washer to try to mitigate the slippage on the bolt -- but the damn thing keeps loosening up and sliding causing the belt to start slipping... Any fix for this?

Finally have some pics of mine after all the hard work! (Still had a lot that needs to be done, but it's "street legal" and drive-able now ;p)

I have the mirror, the mount just fell apart when I took it off and ebay wants like $40-50 for a used one... I was hoping to maybe upgrade it to a more modern style -- I guess I'll go junkyard hopping...

When stripping the lining off my cars ceiling I had to unscrew the mirror mount... it crumbled to dust... I'm not wanting to drop $40 for a new one off ebay that may or may not be in decent condition so I'm wondering what other people have done. I've never had a vehicle that came stock with an adhesive windshield mounted mirror, but I'm feeling like that may be my only option...

I'm interested as well if another run is ever done.

My 280z came with no keys, and I've torn the door apart and found out why! They previous owners have completely janked the lock units (missing their arms) so I need a new lock and key set if anyone has spare laying around. I'd totally be happy with just 1 key/lock for either a door or hatchback as well -- the lock systems still work, I just want to be able to keep my car secure...

I'm guilty of not giving enough information when I ask questions too, but pictures of the rusted areas would help a LOT in getting a yes or no answer. Rust is serious business with these cars, you see a little rust -- that means there is a shitload you don't see.

I did the same thing man, got a wild hair and checked craigslist trying to find a 240z,260z,280z in my price range. Found one 4 hours away and drove out and drove it back -- crapped out in my driveway... But she's home and slowly being repaired.

Which flares did you get? I have some rust spots right where your rear flares are and these would cover it up perfectly after I cut it out and seal it up so it does not rust anymore.

It literally crumbled to dust when I was inspecting it...

Needed one now, I'll probably end up getting a reducer anyway just to make it look cleaner. Just wanted to show it was possible on the cheap in a pinch.

So I'm going to preface this by saying this is the type of boot that does not have the return valve junction in it, my return valve goes into my throttle body. So my boot was completely shot, previous owner had kept it together with masking tape and electrical tape... oye... So I went and looked at how much it would cost to replace and I just did not want to spend 50-60$ + shipping for a little rubber bit... So I made one from stuff from the hardware store near by. Items: 1x 3" rubber corner coupling ($10.99) 1x 2" rubber coupling ($4.99) 1x Cutting tool 1x Rubber glue/weld Step 1: (Image: http://i.imgur.com/fKDI2gs.jpg) Cut the the ends off the 3" rubber corner coupling, this will leave a tube that fits perfectly over the AFM port. Step 2: (Image: http://i.imgur.com/ktNVpmX.jpg) Cut the 2" rubber coupling in half, this part fits perfectly over the engine air intake. Step 2.1 (optional): (Image: http://i.imgur.com/nonjdn5.jpg) Trim the inside of the 2" air coupling down so air flows a bit better. Step 3: Put the 2 pieces together and make sure it's not to long or short. You will need to unbolt the AFM to get a good, secure fit. Step 4: (Image: http://i.imgur.com/S8kViEH.jpg) Glue the 2 coupling pieces together and let it set, I made sure to smooth the glue on the inside as well just to make sure I got a better air flow.

Sorry about the lack of details, just got the car yesterday and have been playing around with it trying to figure out exactly how to describe the issue. Lack of power sub 3k rpm is really why it makes me think it was back pressure issue (I had a 94' celica with straight pipes that had same issue when the pipe was put on it) once it hits 3k it flys, but before then it just sounds mean.

And not in the good has functioning small block way. The previous owner chopped the exhaust off and ran straight pipe all the way back into a ricer can, are there adjustments I need to make to help the ECU deal with not having the back pressure? Should I just pull the exhaust and find a way to re add some back pressure?