Klmykvl

from http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/280Alt.html

I actually just found something that looks promising: 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Unplug the external regulator and note the color code of the wires that are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. You will be connecting some of these wires together, so get another plug from a junked regulator or cut the one off your old regulator. Now the wire colors I will be referring to are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. This is because although the regulator wire colors match the engine harness with the stock regulator, I've noticed that some aftermarket regulators have a different wire color code. 3. Connect the white wire to the yellow wire. This connects the battery to the "S" input. 4. Connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V. 5. Disconnect and unbolt your old alternator. Bolt up the new alternator. Depending on what particular internally regulated alternator you use (I've seen different pulley sizes), you might need a different length belt. 6. At the alternator, connect the white with red stripe wire of the engine wiring harness to the threaded stud (the "A" terminal) on the alternator. This connection provides the charging current for the battery. Connect the black ground wire to the alternator. Don't forget to include any bypass, or filter capacitor. Plug the two-pin "T" connector into the alternator.

I have been doing some searching but I haven't been able to find a straight answer on the wiring up of a ZX alternator into a 240z. From my understanding I will need to splice 2 wires, but I am unsure which ones. One writeup I saw even mentioned adding a diode. Have any of you wired a ZX alternator into a 240z? Any idea on which wires I should be splicing? I have eliminated the external voltage regulator. Thanks in advance.

from your response I think I may understand my error. Currently the injectors are wired to a 12v constant source. Could the constant power source relate to the burnt resistor?

Hey guys, My Megasquirt II quit working on me this week and I opened the case and could smell the burn. I noticed that R15 was burnt out so I replaced it and powered MS with the stim and R15 continued to get hot again so I disconnected. My question is: Could running my injectors without dropping resistors be the issue? the L28et came from a 1983 which I believe didn't have dropping resistors? Anyways I ordered a resistor pack from ebay because I figured it wouldn't hurt to install them anyways.

I agree with Ian. With a surge tank you shouldn't need a larger return. Use a HVLP pump from the tank to the cell and Your Walbro from the surge tank to the fuel rail. Route the return from the rail to the surge tank and another return from the surge tank to the old return line on your chassis.

Thanks for the quick response.

I'm posting because I'm not sure if what I am experiencing is normal and want to avoid any unnecessary troubleshooting and or repairs. So I wired Megasquirt to my L28et and did a little poking around and noticed that I am getting 12v on both leads of my injector harness. I thought I should only be seeing 12v on one of the leads. I disconnected all of the injectors and ran the same test and get 12v on only one of the leads for each injector. Does this sound normal to you guys?

I'm having a similar issue. Did you ever get this sorted out?

Are you using a pullup resistor and a 12v source?

I'm in need of a Timing Cover / Water Pump Housing for an L28 motor. If any of you guys have one laying around let me know cost shipped to 95691. Thanks for reading.

What do you guys think of the L28et with the T5 down to a r180 Diff with 3.36 ratio?

Any help is appreciated.

So I just picked up an '83 280zx-t that I am planning on using as a donor for my l28et swap in my S30. Bought it not runningn as something "electrical" went wrong with the previous owner. He said he took it out of storage, jumped the battery and drove around the block and now the car won't start. When I got it home I began to go through all of the wiring and finally I was able to get some of the lights, however I still cannot get the car to turn over when I turn the ignition switch. I noticed a relay was missing from the relay box and also a wire cut from the other box under the hood. Hoping someone can help me identify if the missing relay or wire could be my problem.

Found! Thanks Rob.

I am currently in the market to start sourcing parts for a turbo swap into my S30. I am interested in anything you may have to get me to my goal, which is as of right now, to run a stock l28et in my 240z. The more complete of a swap the better for me. Let me know what you've got

I'm in the market for a 5 speed transmission from a 77-78 280z for my 240z. I am in the Sacramento Area but I'd be willing to travel a bit for the Transmission.