Enginerd81

I recently picked up the zstore.com spoiler for the 2+2 and it does not fit very well. I worked back and forth with their customer service folks and it looks like the their vendor has problems with their molds. They said they will be getting the vendor to correct the problem but didn't know how long that would take. I haven't seen any other 2+2 spoilers for sale from any vendors unfortunately. B.

You mean the rack mounting bushings? I just replaced my steering rack not too long ago. No special tools required. Mine went like this: - Undo bottom half of steering bushing by firewall - Loosen and remove lower steering shaft via bottom U-joint bolt - Raise car and remove front wheels - Disconnect tire rod ends from car (if you cant get them out, then remove the outers from the rack, but you'll need an alignment) - Loosen bracket bolts - Disconnect sway bar links (to make room) - I think I turned the rack 180 deg and slid it out of the drivers side You may need to jack up on the strut or use a pry bar to get things outta the way but overall its a pretty simple R and R. Installation is reverse of removal. B.

My LM1 wideband is in the same spot as Six-Shooters. Tim is right on the EGT it should be as close to the ports as you can safely get.

Looking for good condition fenders around Houston Texas, Both sides. I'm kinda new to Datsun's, It's going onto a '76 2+2 if that makes a difference. They will be painted but no through holes please. Send pics to bryan.leslie@g.ma.ill...com Thanks, Bryan

I have some diamond racing wheels 15" with 225 yokohama advans. Wheels look like this https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&docid=kkplUg-qDDL1gM&tbnid=He_ZaMU1uJa4JM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.rx7club.com%2F1st-gen-non-technical-207%2Fdiamond-racing-wheels-949897%2F&ei=MTXcUrGnNI7eqwHA6IH4AQ&bvm=bv.59568121,d.aWc&psig=AFQjCNHsekphDOaT-zw9byhUis_ovlH5yQ&ust=1390249647482987 (ad is not mine) These were rain tires for an RX7 race car 6-7 years ago. So tires are quite old but don't show any signs of dry rot. Also I do not have lugs for them, they are 60 deg taper instead of standard 45 - so you'll have to buy some lugs. I am moving to houston and am looking to unload them. Make an offer. I am travelling to detroit metro this week so we could meet up if needed. Bryan

Compression doesn't seem like the culprit - I don't think the numbers are bad enough to cause what you are describing. Fuel flow test? I had a pump that I suspected was an MSD-2225 pump but wasnt sure. Measured flow before rail (unregulated) and after regulator (at 0psi, and 20 psi). To make sure it met specs. I did this with a bike pump to apply pressure to raise pressure. Car not running. Try putting your timing light on every spark plug wire to make sure they are all firing nicely. Do mechanical and any vacuum advances work like they should? How far up stream was the boost leak test done? Clean the fuel injectors/try new ones? There are a few youtube videos for DIY or it's about a $100 to get it done. Good luck

I've always used vinyl - Something like this http://www.scionlife.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198182 He said he didn't want rubber. Bryan

Got a relative with a sewing machine? I've made 2-3 over the years for all of my project cars. Cut the seams apart on the old one to use as a pattern. Bryan

Got some 440cc injectors for a good price and now I need some clips. Does anybody have a set they are not using? Bryan

Picked up a drive shaft and got it installed!

I especially like the last line from this article,http://datsunzgarage.com/probs/ CLUNKING REAR END This is the bane of all Zcars, it's almost impossible to completely fix. It can have many causes but it's rarely caused by the internals of the differential, especially if it's an R-200. The problem is that if you tighten things in one spot it seems to immediately shows up in another: these cars will find any slack in a heartbeat. If there is one thing that Datsun should have designed differently it's the rear end on these cars. If you hear it thumping the floor behind your seat it's a broken/stretched differential mount...the rear driveshaft flange can actually jump up far enough to strike the handbrake linkage. This sounds like a ratcheting sound on hard acceleration. If you hear it farther back its likely one of the causes below: - u-joints on the halfshaft ends are loose and worn-out (common, replace the joints) - tighten the bolts/nuts on both ends of the halfshafts - driveshaft bolts loose - worn out mustache bar bushings (replace with urethane) - shocks bad or loose in strut - replace the control arm spindle pins - ball bearings/grooves in halfshaft body worn (replace halfshaft) - tighten the two large nuts that hold the differential to the mustache bar Even after you try all these you may still have a clunk. The only solution then is learn to shift more smoothly.

I just got my '76 a few weeks ago and am trying to track down a similar thing. Previous owner replaced, diff mount, mustache bar bushings and trans mounts. I tried a new driveshaft and the halfshafts all feel tight. There is some slop in the drive train - can rock driveshaft back and forth with no motion from the wheels. Wheel bearings are on their way out but not to OMG status yet. All rear suspension parts are tight otherwise. Diff strap is intact.... Short of diff backlash I'm at wits end. I have a slight thunk when I get off the gas or quickly engage the clutch. Here's some good resources: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105207-the-dreaded-diff-clunk/

Tony, I took the driveshaft to a local place and they wanted $325 to rebuild it with replaceable joints. I ended up getting some rockford 430-10 joints and those worked well.... for 20 miles/ my first hard launch. which sheared the 2 pins off the cross on the diff end. I was planning on taking my 2 pieces to the same shop to see if they could still work with it. Either that or seeing what was available in the used arena. Michal, Is there any slop or binding in either of the joints? Do you know how many miles were on it? RB26, center to center distance of Ujoints is 34-1/8" Bryan

Need one that will fit 76 280z 2+2 Preferably near western Michigan but will entertain shipped ones. Bryan