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Everything posted by whatnow123
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I have a fairly clean non-rusted air box. I can send you a photo if you are interested. $60 shipped and it's from a 78. The one in the photo to the left.
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So this weekend I pulled out the engine and trans... what a mess I got! Anyway, I pulled the front cross member so I can eliminate the motor mounts and install the Subaru forester power rack! Wasn't a fan of the the stock rack and read enough about the subaru rack that I just had to do it. I picked up a rack with 99k on it from ebay, $100 shipped! Can't beat that. So I had to modify the cross member for the rack to fit. The Sub rack has a square mounting point while the Z is rounded. I carefully cut out a V after a few measurements, welded it all back together (and a lot of grinding) and then had to clearance the outer left side for one of the lines (yet more welding and grinding). Not to hard to do really but I nailed it on the first try as the rack sits dead level! I was surprised myself! I'm going to use the Volvo inner tie rods that are slightly modified with stock Z tie rods (you have to use 2 right hand side tie rods due to the threading). I wanted to use the stock Z tie rods as they have that funky bend and I didn't want any interference you might have with strait tie rods). When I pulled my rack, it measured 46 1/2, so once you cut down the threads on the Volvo inter rods so they bottom out, then you have to cut down Z tie rod slightly so it can bottom out. I'm guessing (I don't have the outer rods yet to measure) but I should have close to 1 inch narrower adjustment than what I took off, which should be plenty for my ride! Special thanks to 78zlt1 who figured this out! One thing that has stood out to me today is the combo of parts I will now have on this car. Kind of funny really when you think about it. 280z = Datsun Fuel tank = Camaro Seats = Pontiac Steering rack = Subaru Inner tie rods = Volvo Engine/trans = Ford Slave cylinder = Toyota I'm sure the list will grow from here.... On with the picks so far! I will post the install picks once I get there!
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Came across this today and thought I would share... Hef gave the 1978 playboy playmate of the year a 1978 280z! I'm a little confused about the bumpers, maybe a euro model it was? None the less, still kind of cool
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So I got the tank all in and wired up and it actually works!! Honestly the Camaro tank fits in the Z area like it was built for it (with the exception of losing the spare tire well).. but I figure I will just toss the spare in the back when I go on a long drive. Had some aluminum diamond plate laying around so I made a cover for the tank, screwed it down with some seam sealer as well and then tossed some insulation around it to keep the sound down. The photo was of the test fit and finished.. no one will know a thing!! Pulled the hood off and this will be the last time Hybridz members will see the stock engine in this car! Here is a photo of what is going in
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Just a quick question, I did a search and nothing came up. Anyway, on my car when I bought it, it came with this weight that was attached to the diff mount. It kind of looks home made so I wasn't sure why it was there. I went and looked at another Z today (I caught the bug, but didn't buy it, it's on phx craigslist 77 280z with a LS1, don't waste your time, complete rust bucket and the LS1 is just placed in there, no mounts nothing), I looked under the car and sure enough, this car had one as well. I have no clue why it would be there other than maybe a skid plate to protect the exhaust? Is that all this is for or does it serve a purpose?
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I've got the MB with poly bushings and the transverse link. I don't have the front Diff mount. $135 shipped.
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Find a 2001 Camaro tank. It fits perfectly in there, it's less than a fuel cell and will "look" stock.
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So I got around to cutting out the spare tire well, I really hesitated for a few moments as it was in such perfect condition and I felt bad cutting up such a perfect car, but I fired up the cut off grinder and started hacking. This of course AFTER I removed the stock tank. I read a couple of threads about using a 2001ish Camaro tank. How it fit in there and being able to run dual exit exhaust, which is what I wanted. Kind of a lot of work for an extra muffler, but hey, I want those to in the know to know what's under the hood. Anyway, I picked a perfect tank from a car that rear ended someone and he was parting it out. It was on craigslist, told the guy I'd do 100 bucks for it, I showed up 2 hours later and he had it completely pulled out for me. Really can't ask for more than that. Anyway, I pulled the sending unit, removed the fuel lever sensor and proceeded to modify the Z sending unit and attaching it to Camaro one. Quite a daunting task but it worked. The only photo I have is the first mock up as it didn't fit. I didn't snap a photo of the final assembly but it was fairly close to the photo after some bending.... The tank came with the straps, so I fabbed up some upper braces, to attach the straps to, bolted the braces to the straps and did a test fit over the weekend. I can see why this is a popular swap, the tank fits perfectly in there and doesn't hang down at all. The stock tank probably hangs lower than the Camaro tank does and gives plenty of room for a true dual exhaust!! Now I just have to fab up some fuel lines along with attaching the fill neck to the new tank. The Z hose is much larger than the Camaro tank, but it shouldn't be that hard to come up with something and make a cover for the new hole in my car!!
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Oh, forgot to add the seats I installed. I found some seats on Craigslist, guy bought them for a project he never got around to but had no idea what they were out of, after a couple of quick measurements, I figured they might just fit so they came home with me. After a bit of investigating, turns out they are out of a Pontiac Sunbird. I wanted them because of the shoulder seatbelt guide. They are very comfortable and fit perfectly after the pre-requisite modification to the trans tunnel the 280z's seem to have that the 240 don't. How I mounted them was I used the stock seat rails and bolted them to the mounting of the Sunbird seats. One corner needed a spacer as it wasn't flat, but other than that, it a very good upgrade to the stock seat IMO... I also added a nice fat grant steering wheel and kenwood stereo with speakers to get rid of the stockers that came with the car. Yep, the car still had the stock radio. If you look close, you can see where I moved the power antenna button. It's on the center console. On a side note, here is a photo of my dog Sadie that I recently had to put down. She lived a very healthy and long 14 years and rounded the corner on her way out very quickly. We should all be so lucky. Anyway, if you have stock in Wham-O, you should probably sell it as Frisbee sales are going to tank! She was an awesome Frisbee dog! But the universe has a way of balancing things out so here is a photo of my new love, my step-granddaughter Kennedy. Can't wait to take her for a ride in the Z!!!
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Just another update. I took off the 280z bumper and installed some 240 bumpers instead. Not only did it make the car about a foot and a half shorter, it probably took off 65 lbs on the outside corners, not to mention it looks way better! Since the car I bought was basically perfect, I didn't want to remove the rear "bumper wing" that they installed to fill the gap for the 5mph bumpers on the rear and in turn have to re-paint the car, so I spaced out the rear bumper to line up with the "wing". Honestly, I think it looks pretty good! I will however, pull the rear bumper in if and when I repaint the car and remove that damn wing. Now that they are on, I'm going to remove them and paint them black!! Next up I'm going to install the Camaro fuel tank, still trying to figure out how to integrate the Z fuel sending unit, but I have a plan!!
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Just an update!! I got my rear disc brake kit from Silvermine, it's a pretty decent kit and generally "bolts" right in. I do recommend pulling the stub axles and removing the backing plates instead of cutting them off. I cut the first one off when I did my coil-overs. It's way easier to pull the axle. Here are the discs that came with the kit. I ordered a matching front rotor as well. The rear is a little bigger and I freaked when I got the rotors as the bolt pattern didn't look right to me. So a quick measurement and it turns out 104mm however, I didn't realize the fronts rotors aren't floating and bolt to the hub. I was also sent calipers that were for the same side, Edan sent out the correct one after I contacted him about it. The only two things that need modification are 1, the attachment bolts that come with the kit to attach the caliper are to long and will hit the rotor. The second thing is the bracket that holds the e-brake cable needs to be opened up for it to seat. I used a step bit and it worked perfectly! Overall it's a pretty clean looking kit and seems to work well. Just remember to pull the valve out of the master cylinder and hold the caliper up to bleed the brakes. You'll never get all the air out of you don't. I learned that the hard way after an hour or so... Also... why can't I attach the photos within the text? Not sure what I'm doing wrong this time...
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Need Car Security Suggestions
whatnow123 replied to bryand2's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Wow, the corvette video is amazing how quick that is. I agree with the cut-off for the fuel pump, other than that there probably isn't much else to do. However, I'm surprised that these cars are stolen. For one, there isn't that many out there anymore hence it would be easier to track down if sold for parts. Also since there aren't that many, those with the cars probably aren't stealing other cars for parts. .... at least that is my thoughts anyway. Mine stays fairly close at most all times. But I haven't really driven yet much either. -
Hey Everyone, Been bitten by the Z bug like everyone else here! I've been thinking about buying a second car so I don't have to drive my truck everywhere with it's crappy fuel mileage. Was really leaning towards a mini cooper or mazda 3speed and got to thinking, why not just build something? I built a 67 Chevy C10 a few years ago, lowered it, 4 wheel discs, PS, PB, AC, modern interior a complete frame off including repairing loads of rust. It was a great truck, but with a 4.11 rearend, a 700r and 420hp, it wasn't a practial "driver" and maybe even a more of a show truck. It also took me about 3 years. I came across a V8 Z, talked to the guy and decided I had to have one. Had been looking for a z for awhile and found a vurtually rust free 78z, 5 speed car with a mountain of documents detailing the maintenance history including the original window sticker. 147k on the OD (so around 4k a year) I feel a little bad taking a very nice complete and very well cared for survivor and converting it to a non-stock car, but hey, why not? BTW, everything, and I mean everything works perfectly on the car, except the stock radio cuts in and out between the left and right speakers. The plan is is to build a nice quick car that can be driven daily. Here is the plan on what I'm going to do and I will document the build for just to help others out. Body to remain stock with the exception of 240z bumpers and maybe a front airdam of some sort. Rebuilt 92 ford GT mustang engine, .30 over, milled heads, cold air intake underdrive pulleys etc but mostly stock. I may add AFR aluminum heads before I install the engine, but haven't decided on that yet. I estimate about 260 hp or so and close to 290 torque. Should be plenty for a good street car and still get decent fuel mileage. T5 trans, 2.95 first gear, .63 overdrive (still need) R200 LSD with 3.70 gears (needed the front pinion bearing replaced, replacing them all right now while I have it apart) Rear disc brakes (ordered from Silvermine, will do a write up for them). Seems like a decent kit. Also ordered matching front rotors. May upgrade the front to vented rotors at a later time. Ground control adjustable coil-overs with KYB shocks. (only lowering about .75 of an inch). 16 x 8 XXR 513 wheels. New bushings on all four corners. I'm also doing the subaru forester power steering swap. Dual exhaust (would love suggestions on what fuel tank to run to make this happen). Also would like to work with stock fuel gauge. I don't have an issue of cutting or welding and know I'm going to lose the spare tire well) Keeping the AC (I'm in Arizona so this is a must) Blacking out the chrome trim/bumpers. So nothing to crazy as I want a good, reliable street car that I can drive anywhere. Anyway, here are a few photos. Test fitting the new wheels Posi unit Here the rearend is out of the car Here is the new springs and struts installed. Also found the only non-stock part on the car. A billet mustache bar! What a bonus huh? So now it's off to the front end, installing the 240z bumpers and keeping it a runner for a month or two until I get the new trans/engine completed then it's out with the old and in with the new! Anyone interested in near perfect 280z bumpers, engine and 5 speed let me know. (engine and trans won't be available for a few months). I also have an extra set of lower control arms, stub axles and flanges that came off the car. When I bought the R200, it came complete with a the rearend pieces and near perfect 240z front bumper and the guy tossed in some stainless mufflers as well. Woo Hoo!!
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It will be sent to Arizona 85257.
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Wow, your headers look awesome! did you also build from the collectors back? That is pretty sweet as well. I'm doing the same 5.0 swap with a T5 and would love to run the same setup but with block huggers as I don't have your skill to build the headers.
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Getting the rear wheels centered
whatnow123 posted a topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Hey There, Just bought a 280z in near perfect condition (no really an un-restored survivor) and I had been looking for awhile. The current plan is to lower it, do a complete suspension upgrade and drop a v8 5 or 6 speed in it. That is the plan anyway. My question is, the rear wheels on these cars do not center in the wheel well. Is there a "fix" to better center the rear wheels? I'm very mechanically inclined and have fabrication/welding skills so I'm not afraid correcting this. Just wondering if anyone knows the "fix" to this.