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When it comes to shopping for headers the l28 has few unique options for headers. I don’t know much about this but why can’t you make a 6 into 3 header where 1-4 go into collector #1 and 5-2 go into collector #2 and finally 3-6 go into collector #3 or something else like this? I am just curious why Nobody has ever played with the sound in this manner

I just bought some new headers for my 1974 260z, but they run into some transmission coolant lines. Does anyone know if I would be able to bypass these lines? Or what I could do to get around this problem? It's an automatic and I have removed the air conditioning. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The two horizontal lines in the second picture are what I am talking about.

So now that I am pretty sure I know how to use the website, I will give this one last attempt. Sorry for the spam I may have caused by trying to post a new topic from my phone. I now will only be using my computer to post lol. I just picked up my Rb25det series 2 for my 240z build. I want to upgrade the turbo and I want a top mount set up. My goal is around 350-400 whp. I want to use the garrett gt3076r turbo, but am open to other suggestions. My main issue is trying to find a decent turbo manifold to use. I DO NOT want to use an ebay manifold like the Cxracing manifold because I have heard bad reviews. (I would like good reviews if people have had experience using them however) I know that the strut tower causes some issues as well. Any suggestions for working around that? I would ideally like to spend around $1000 for a decent top mount manifold. Is going with a custom one the best route? or can anyone explain to me what setup you are using? I have tried searching, but can't seem to find exactly what I am looking for. Thanks in advance!!

One of the few things that I ever paid someone else to do on my car was the exhaust system. Eleven years ago, I bolted on my Dynomax block huggers and drove to the local muffler shop to have an exhaust system built. It was made of crush bent 14 gage aluminized steel and had a pair of Flowmaster mufflers at the back. I was never happy with it. It sounded alright, but the poorly made headers and even more poorly made exhaust were not something I was proud of. So last year I decided to do something about it: I removed the old exhaust and cut it into pieces so that I could not possibly reinstall it, then I built myself a set of custom long tube, stainless steel headers. The process was a serious pain in the rear, but it is now finished. To start the process, I carefully measured the front of my chassis and the engine to determine where all of the important features are in relation to the engine. I established a coordinate system with 0,0,0 at the back of the block, the x axis aligned with the centerline of the crank, the y axis to the driver side, and z up. In the process of taking measurements, I determined the critical dimensions necessary to route the primary tubes from the exhaust ports to the collectors without contacting the steering shaft, block, frame, driveshaft tunnel, and other things that get in the way. The critical dimensions include the position and orientation of each of the exhaust ports relative to the crank centerline. The dimensions were used to generate a SolidWorks model of the headers. Here are some images of the SolidWorks models of the chassis and headers. The routing of the tubes was calculated using a computer program that I wrote which takes the following parameters as input and gives the following values as output: Input: L1 Length of first straight section of tube exiting port S Desired length of Header tube Xp X Position of port relative to centerline of crank Yp Y Position of port relative to centerline of crank Zp Z Position of port relative to centerline of crank Orientation of port Xc X Position of collector entry relative to centerline of crank Yc Y Position of collector entry relative to centerline of crank Zc Z Position of collector entry relative to centerline of crank Orientation of collector entry Bend radius of mandrel bends used to make header. Output: Lengths of straight sections and degree and orientation of bent section required to route the header. The calculated header dimensions were put into the SolidWorks model. Many iterations were tried until I had models with which I was satisfied. Once satisfied, I made a fixture to build the headers using a junk engine on an engine stand. The fixture allowed me to rigidly place the flanges and collectors into their prescribed positions and to assemble the pieces into position for welding. The images below show the passenger side header pieces assembled and ready to weld. The hose clamps were used to hold things together for tack welding. The headers are now complete and installed, but here are some more pictures of the assembly on the garage floor prior to installation. I now have an exhaust that is all mine and of which I am not ashamed.

Howdy yall, As we all know the mid length header we all run from JCI limits the Ls power plant a bit. I myself would be fine with the power I'm making if I could just get that deep throatty noise long tube headers supply. So I've spoken with my fabricator who has 20+ Year experience and he would be willing to make a custom set of Long tube headers for the Z. I know there have been group buys in the past and I'm just testing the waters in regards to the amount of people wanting a long tube header for the LS Swapped S30. Obviously the more people we get to purchase these headers the better the price. We'd really like to get them under 1k but still provide hand made quality work. I can upload some of his work tomorrow when I get to the office. If you have any questions please let me know and I can ask him directly.

Okay so I have a 1990 z32 N/A. I installed a set of Z1 headers on the car last week. When I picked it up from the shop I noticed a slight hesitation under acceleration . Everything else is fine just under power does it do this. I have researched everywhere online and find so much that could be the problem. Could the shop have messed something up? Vaccum line? O2 sensor damaged? I noticed that they removed the brake master cylender during the job and unplugged many vac lines. I have checked all of them and they seem fine. Could running the headers cause the car to run this way? Any help you may offer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill

Anyone ever heard of Pace Setter exhaust headers? I've done a Google search and turned up reviews from "they're garbage" to "they're the best for the money." Someone posted a thread on here about six years ago, but it didn't get much input, and I was wondering if anyone has since used them on the road to any success. I've been ripping apart my 280zx and the guy who owned it before me must've installed them. The stupid things are so big it made getting the heat shield off a pain. I'll post some pics tonight, if anyone's interested.. They're rusty, but it doesn't look like they've been compromised; the car was left at the edge of a forest for a few years so even what little coating they had is almost gone. I'd considered trying to sell them off cheap and getting a stock unit if possible. Trash or keep?

I'm looking for a used or new set of the JCI ls1 sanderson shorty headers that they sell for $330. I am trying to cut costs as much as anybody else would and don't have the means to build a custom set. New or used shoot me an offer via pm shipped to 37871. Thanks, Travis