michaelp

Nope

Nope, my brothers car....I'll keep my turbo VG in my 86T that'll actually hold boost/power versus having a underpowered v8. My brother wanted a v8 Z31 and he had spare mustang stuff from his foxbodys...so we figured we'd go 5.slow Z31.

My turbo VG has way more power than this thing will have. Its my brothers car. LOL

Its still completely different....motor mounts are for a KA, the frame rails are different lengths apart, the rack is in a different spot, the offset for the control arms is different....

LOL! Subframe for semi-trailing arms looks identical to a subframe for multi-link? I don't think so. Yes, do some fab work and you can put the entire S13 suspension under the back of a z31...but the subframes are in no way interchangable.

It fits nice. Using a 84-86 Z31 turbo T5 with a foxbody input shaft and bell housing....trans crossmember lined right up because of this, as does the shifter and the stock Z31 driveshaft. Its all cake, just needed to modify the motor mounts on the crossmember a tiny tiny bit (all thats required is changing the angle a slight bit as seen below) and it bolts right in. Some hood clearance issues, but not a huge deal....next step is wiring. lol

Some people who've visited my shop have known about this happening for a while now....for those of you who haven't been here: More later....

Anyone have pictures and specs of said stuff? I might be able to have some machined.....currently working on rear caliper brackets.

Few weeks ago (next to my turbo Z31): Now:

Pretty sure a ~2800lb car that runs 6.69s in the 1/8th mile has more than 400whp.... Edit: sorry, replied before I read the admins post on the last page.

FWIW, I don't run the factory O2 sensor on any of my Z31s...I still get excellent fuel economy and make power.

90+ (Pathfinder/Maxima etc) "PWR-2" Power Transistor Unit has a more modern faster-responding transistor for switching the coil on/off. It fixes any slow response time of the coil....combined with a better coil in itself, your theory of the problem will likely go away, if it even exists. It takes a tiny bit of wiring modification to run the newer PTU, but I've noticed improvements in idle quality and butt-dyno. BTW Tony D....VG guys have and will continue to rev over 6500rpm with the ported turbo-automatic oil pumps and the stock ECU/ignition. Don't know how many times I've said that its happened. BTW, the way Careless solved the oiling issue is the same way I did. VG33...it has a better oil pump. Others run turbo-automatic pumps, ported...and it helps a lot.

I just read a lot of this, but not all of it...I've PERSONALLY seen 165whp on stock NA injectors (180cc) with a stock NA ECU. Mods were intake, gutted plenum, header, 2.5" exhaust and advanced ignition timing...and thats it. With cams, head work, etc...you should probably get some turbo injectors (260cc) and Nistune a different ECU and tune it properly. www.nistune.com

Yeah....respect the engineers who spend thousands of hours making these systems work. Like when they spend all of that time developing the DIGITAL ECCS setup used on Z31s, and everything newer from Nissan is based off this...that proved to be 10,000 times better than the analog crap they used before. Yet, you sit here praising the analog EFI as if its the best thing ever. You constantly insult other options, and go on with spreading FALSE information about other stuff....stand alone, Z31 EFI, whatever it be, all you've done is talk about how horrible it is and how EVERYONE should keep the stock 280Z EFI. So please, take your own advice and show the respect due to the engineers who developed the better, newer, stuff. Regardless, Gollum basically said what I said a few posts ago. Its a pointless argument, we all have our opinions of what works best for what we want. So I'm leaving it here. Someone asked me questions about Nistune, so I offered them help with understanding it....those posts were nothing towards Tony D or anyone else. BTW. Obviously coil on plug is better for spark...doesn't mean the z31s distributor setup isnt capable. There are still FAST cars with distributors....and being the Z31 doesnt use points and has electronically controlled ignition, its fine for what it is.

Theres soooo much false info here about Z31s...ignorance. People don't rev over 6500rpm because the VG30E(T)s stock oiling system is eh. The stock oil pumps can't move enough volume to support revving over ~7,000rpm....if you do, with a lot of power, you spin bearings from lack of oiling. It has NOTHING to do with spark control....but since you're clueless about Z31 stuff and just keep pulling crap out of your ass to try to make yourself feel happy about that crappy analog EFI you have.... Gee, why was the OEM ECU rev-limited to 6600rpm? Maybe because they made peak horsepower at 5200rpm (or 5400rpm in euro form)? They drop off in power around 6k, theres no reason to rev higher...THAT is why they are limited. Why is a VQ35 rev-limited to 6500rpm? etc....more stupid statements from Tony D.

It varies on the ECU, because you're limited to the table size of whatever ECU your Nistune is running on (Z31s are 16bit, tables are 16x16 tables...one cell per RPM/load range). You can fine tune the injector pulse width in each RPM/load range cell. I just opted for keeping the stockish tune for now since I had plans of going with bigger injectors anyways, no reason to do the job twice. Like I said, on my VG33 car...I adjusted the cells to run around ~11:1 AFRs in boost at every load range I was operating in by making multiple pulls and datalogging.....the car ran much better than it did with the stock tune and definitely gained power, but I never dyno'd it. The fact that the Z31 ECU is digital and has actual programming and fuel maps/timing maps, etc, that you can TWEAK every cell on to precisely tune it for a smooth idle and proper AFRs at every load range and RPM make it worlds better than the old analog EFI. This guy was running a Nistune'd Z31 ECU: And no, it wasnt going into a limp mode...Nissan just tuned the load it was running in stupid rich to be safe. BTW, I averaged 31mpg on a 300-mile highway trip with my VG33 car.

I'm running Nistune with a stockish euro tune...this car hadn't been tuned much except some ignition timing stuff until I put the 450ccs in the other day. The power is MOSTLY from a MBC set at 10psi, instead of the stock 6.8psi. A full turbo-back exhaust has been proven to add ~20-30whp too over a stock exhaust (cat-back only is about 10whp, but the downpipe is stupid restrictive)...then the FMIC is mainly to support more boost. The plenum spacer mostly moves where the engine makes power than adding to it. I make peak horsepower at ~4900-5000rpm, versus stocks ~5200rpm... I never said THIS specific Z31 was tuned. It was on a mostly stock tune when I made 250whp, which is why its AFRs were stupid rich. I tuned others in the past, both my own car and other peoples. I havent been to the dyno since putting the 450cc injectors in....waiting until I get the bigger turbo in. A stock VG30ET will make ~250whp with a cheap MBC set @ 10psi, FMIC, full exhaust and a K&N cone filter. Its been done multiple times, if not 250whp...damn close...but usually on dynojets, so being mustangs generally read lower I assume the timing adjustments and fuel map difference in the euro-spec tune helped it out. I'm also running stock NA base timing of 20°BTDC, versus the turbos 10-15 (depending on year) The dip in power around ~3k is from the crappy stock turbo tune going stupid rich as soon as "high" boost (more than stock) hits. Anyways, like I said...I tuned my old VG33 car with stock injectors, 9psi of boost, no FMIC, and a full 3" turbo-back exhaust....its powerband felt much smoother afterwords with AFRs around 10.5:1-11:1 (still MILDLY too rich) and it was definitely quicker than this one...

Still not sure where you got this incorrect theory of the Z31 EFI being unusable above 6500rpm. My 250whp run @ 10psi was with a bone stock 9:1 VG30E, with the turbo exhaust manifolds and 260cc injectors, a FMIC, ASCO plenum spacer and 3" turbo-back exhaust. The ECU is a Nistune'd 86NA ECU with a slightly modified '87 EDM (European Domestic Market) tune, I just threw in a bit more spark advance at lower RPM. Its a really conservative tune atm, runs about 9.5:1 AFRs in boost...but that is stock Z31 fuel maps. Rev limiter is set at 6600rpm, which is the stock euro-Z31 rev limit (HMMM..thats higher than 6500). I have 450cc injectors in it now and am putting my t3/t4 on shortly, working on getting a basic street tune down. It starts and runs with no issues though. But yeah, stock Z31 turbo ECU/tune can handle ~250whp. In the past, I've built a VG33ET 84 Z31, not quite completely gutted it weighed about ~2700lbs. I ran a custom tune on it with the stock injectors and 9psi of boost on the stock T3, never dyno'd it....I revved it to 7,000rpm, rev limiter was set to 7200. DAMN, wheres that not being able to rev over 6500? I'm running SUs on my 280Z because they were cheaper than going with Z31 EFI and Nistune to tune it or stand alone, and they are capable of flowing more air than any of the stock L intake manifolds. One of these days I may get around to building a custom EFI intake manifold for the L28 and running Z31 EFI or stand alone...but until then, carbs is a better solution for me. BTW. Tony D, modern EFI can learn to correct within certain limits, but it can't self-learn for different sized injectors or make the injectors magically support more power than they do. They're still running off pre-programmed fuel maps and timing maps, and only adjust mildly. Anyways, enough with the bickering. Most of this was just a stupid misunderstanding...and its all a matter of opinion. All setups can work great, just depends on what you want.

Its stock other than headers, exhaust and SUs....and its quicker than it was with the stock EFI. Thats all the point ever was. Keep in mind that in that video its rolling out, not launching....its a bit quicker with a launch. But whatever, if you did know what you were talking about with modern EFI you wouldnt have said it is "based off bosch technology from the 60s"....digital EFI has nothing in common with analog EFI except for the fact that it has fuel injectors. Oh, and right...FYI...people have revved over 7,000rpm with the Z31 ECU. The reason they cut out at 6500rpm is..well, thats where the REV LIMITER is, smart one....what was it that I managed once....right, 7600rpm. And I never said it was fast, I said it wasnt slow...like your magic low number of 87whp with webers because you're clueless when it comes to tuning carbs. Whatever though, its not worth arguing with old guys with their mindsets. I deal with tuning modern EFI every day, but at the same time...I know how to tune a carb properly...this is why my car didn't lose power. AFRs are AFRs, get the AFRs proper on a carb car and you make power too. SUs flow better than the stock EFI intake manifold. Go with bigger injectors, custom intake manifold and stand alone (or Z31 /w Nistune) EFI and make more power...because yes, EFI is better for making power. But the stock 280Z EFI is NOT. *You still havent produced a dyno sheet* BTW, in the video....I start moving at 1 second in, not 0, and I'm doing 95 by 15 seconds in. Thats 14 seconds, but I guess with your old age your sight must not be good.

I'm not the ignorant one who is full of his opinion and sticking by it...I've even had about a dozen people from this forum tell me in the last half hour how you're an opinionated old stubborn guy who can't grasp modern stuff. Have fun in the stone age of EFI. Its good at two things, not needing to tweak it occasionally, and emissions. Get out your timer, its reaaal friggen slow with the SUs...lost soooo much power.

Theres no keys being punched when "tuning" the 280Z EFI. Its a crappy analog computer.

Because NA Z31s only do ~140whp, and they have better heads, cams, intake, exhaust and EFI....and a higher compression ratio.

It had header, exhaust and a cone filter before with the crappy EFI. Stock S30 EFI = crap for power. end of discussion. Theres a reason the race cars didn't use it.

I can tell already that you've never even used standalone EMS if you think just having money solves it. It takes more skills to properly tune a car using stand alone (or any modern EMS for that matter) than it does to use your ghetto old-school tricks of taking apart the primitive AFM and screwing with potentiometers. And yes, 187whp is about the most 180cc injectors can manage on a 6 cylinder, unless you bump fuel pressure...but since you have no PROPER means of tuning your antique EFI, good look with making it run properly. Call me when you want to be taught the tricks of the trade in the MODERN EFI world....you know, where you actually tune fuel and timing maps at specific RPM and load ranges to make it run properly at every RPM, with the best possible emissions and fuel economy.