michaelp

I raced a friends Z31 that ran mid 14s in the 1/4 and we were neck and neck...so yeah. Guess what guy, I deal with tuning EFI cars all the time....doesnt change the fact that the stock EFI sucks for making power...and until you produce a dyno sheet, you're full of it.

This is true...really depends on what you want to do with the car. If you're looking for "cheap" NA power gains, as in...supporting other modifications such as head work, cams etc....go with carbs. If you're just looking for a reliable stock cruiser, stick with the stock EFI.... If you're afraid to tune carbs occasionally, spend the extra cash and go with a stand alone EFI setup, just get a better intake manifold than the stocker...

Do you have a dyno sheet? I find it very hard to believe a bone stock L28 with its poo restrictive head and crappy intake and exhaust manifold design with a tiny exhaust makes 147whp, when a bone stock VG30E makes ~140whp....with better heads, intake manifolds, exhaust manifolds, bigger exhaust and PROPER EFI....my car is definitely faster than it was with the poop stock EFI. Not only that, but it can't handle more power for ****...you're not going to get away with a cam and head work in any way. The stock 180cc injectors would be hard pressed to make much more than stock power. I threw it out because its garbage. If I go back to EFI, it'll be with an proper setup that can actually compensate for more airflow. Z31 EFI or stand alone. BTW...just because your weber setup was tuned poorly and made crap power doesn't mean carbs suck. The stock EFI intake manifold flows like a coffee stirrer/straw compared to even SUs, let alone triple webers.

Am I lighting a bad fire again? I'll just leave this here.... 260DET, there are more 450+whp VG30ETs in Z31s than I think of off the top of my head....and they are SAE corrected. Stop being ignorant, mmkay?

In October 2011 I traded my '84 VG33ET swapped Z31 for this. Its a 78 280Z. 2 days after getting it home, I fixed a high idle issue, 3 injectors which died on me the day before, new fuel pump, coolant temp sensor (engine control) wiring.... Then injectors died again a week later....so I dropped the tank and cleaned it thoroughly and put in some NA Z31 injectors (same size/impedance) Dual air dam? I put the side markers back on it, fixed my drivers side seat belt and tightened the nut that holds the exterior mirror on (it moved around some...) Then shortly after, despite my attempts to clean the tank and such....more injectors decided to stick open. L Solution? I bought a "new" tank from someone local that was in way better shape then had it boiled out by a radiator shop. I then proceeded with the carb install... Start of the day: The fenders had some rust hidden in them (while the rest of the car is solid??), so I swapped them out... After swapping fenders. Gonna prep the car for paint eventually and paint it...unknown color. Bumpers are lame...I need to figure something out for a lower grille though... Annd....SUs with temporary fuel line setup......it has the proper fuel rail and such now: And just for fun, my Z31T and 280Z I've put more miles on the 280Z in the last week than I ever was able to last year after I got it....so I'd have to say I successfully fixed it.

I just did the opposite swap, 71 SUs on my L28 in my 280Z...it seems to have way better throttle response (even with the stock air cleaner, and even better without the air cleaner) and its definitely quicker...you just need to have the carbs tuned properly for this....car also starts up every time without issues....don't get me wrong, I'm all for EFI...but the stock L EFI sucks, especially for power. Previously I had a cone air filter and all of the emissions stuff removed....it just doesn't compare with the power from the carbs, especially since I can do cams and such with the carbs and make it run properly with it, but the EFI cant compensate. If I went to EFI, I'd go with Z31 Turbo injectors, MAF and ECU....or stand alone.

I like my digital dash....if they stop working, its 99.99% of the time just the power supply....simple re-solder and you're all set.

And that will be adequate for batch fuel control and DIS ignition control?

I've searched and searched, and find mixed results. I'm looking for someone who may know if a 280Z distributor (non points) with the mechanical advanced welded so it doesn't move can be used as a trigger in MS2 or 3? I'd love to run MS2 or 3 with DIS (either coil on plug or coil packs), but I'm looking for a trigger source for crank position without using a 280ZX turbo dizzy.

I'm looking to build a carb'd LT1, and I searched and searched but find mixed results. I know about the GMPP intake manifold, but have found some people saying Vortec intake manifolds will bolt up and work even though they're only 8 bolt, instead of 12...and others say they don't work. Has anyone actually done this or is it hearsay? Thanks!

nvm, please delete

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I must say...DISPLACEMENT.

Probably the most rigid of the lighter, older, Z-chassis'. Its definitely a much more modern design in terms of frame rails, floor pans, etc, than any of the previous...and its in the top 3 of the most aerodynamic Z's ever Don't get me wrong, I love S30s for their looks and lightness, and being old....I love Z31s for their looks (shut up), and how they drive. It was probably the first Z that was stable over 130-140.... But I'm sure a S30 can be made just as rigid as a Z31, and weigh about the same or more while doing it. A 280Z weighs more than a bare bones Z31 yet isnt as rigid.... Just saying, there are more and more people drifting them now....I don't think the S30 is the proper chassis to choose to drift with, because of the points others have made.

You're lucky...88-89s have a CONSULT connector in the passenger kick panel by the ECU to do an auto code check. The other option is turning the screw on the ECU and watching the lights flash. You do NOT have to do all 5... http://xenonz31.com/ECUcodes.html Keep in mind the diagnostic connector is NISSAN CONSULT, meaning you'll need a consult adaptor and software for whatever scan tool you're using. Also, CEL is Cali emissions only. If you look in the FSM it'll note the few things that are check engine light worthy. Its likely Injector Leak, EGT, or EGR. http://xenonz31.com/reference.html

The Z31 has a 2.2k Ohm resistor between the tach and the negative of the coil from the factory, not sure how that affects using Z31 coils in other cars and vice versa.

cmperformanceexhaust.com

For what its worth, Fuji Heavy Industries owns Subaru, and until '99 Nissan owned a good chunk of Fuji Heavy Industries. Nissan says the Z31 driveshaft/propshaft u-joints cant be replaced too, but there are ways to replace non-serviceable u-joints. I once found a writeup somewhere on the interwebz, but cant seem to find it now.

:-\ good luck, my $200 heap I dragged out from under a tree that was near the road in PA isnt even that rusty in the frame rail area in front of the firewall....just needs floor desperately, needless to say idk if it'll ever get them. Picked up another 74 in better shape with triple webers and crap for $1000, but with a siezed engine. Regardless, good luck. If you're good worth bodywork and...welding, and fabrication, I'm sure you can definitely make something of this with a little money and love.

Currently the floor pan is just set in there. Its getting welded in tonight after we do a bit of grinding/sand blasting to ensure all the rust is gone from around it. Going to need to extend it a bit, too.

Its been waaay too long since I updated this...but, the truth here is...its been a looonnng time since I actually worked on this car. From the past 2 weeks, when I began work on it agian, heres what has been accomplished: Got the L26 pulled. I got the E88 head off to the machine shop for an estimate on getting it decked, a valve job done, and basically just rebuilt...also seeing about getting newer style valve guides put in it so its compatible with unleaded fuel, is this doable? We'll see... WTF, somebody stole my drivers floor! I picked up some fiberglass fenders for $80 for the pair. With them I got rusted stock headlight buckets, and lower valance things....also got a set of good turn signals which are worth a decent amount, so it was completely worth the $80...LOL New floor is going in TODAY! Passenger side will be next week.

I'm building a pretty similar setup, F54 flat-top L28 with an older head, compression ratio should be around 10:1 on mine...header, triple weber 40 dcoes, and a decent cam...difference is I intend on driving the car multiple times a week....lol

I bought my 74 260Z for $1000. It needs floor pans (in progress now) but the 1/4 panels and such are all pretty solid, as well as the frame rails front and rear of the floor where the seats are...with it I got a complete, cleanish, interior, a set of italian-made triple webers, MSA header, Mallory distributor, and a siezed up L26...but it only has 40,000 original miles and has been in a garage for a long long long long time. Parked since 1979. Does it need rust fixed? Yes...was it worth all of $1000 to me, worthy of being fixed? Hell yes! Floor pans look like this after wire brushing. Both sides are about the same, but like I said all of the frame rails (even rocker panels are pretty decent) are solid apart from those under the seating area...which even those are decent other than the very rear of the pass side. http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/268278_1799710360047_1458420451_1998244_2430187_n.jpg

I love you as much as possible without being ***. TANKS! (I can't say ***?)

I'm just talking crap because it pisses you off whenever people talk crap on your style. lol

This car is 10x cooler than PPKs just because its not dragging the frame on the ground with stupid stretched tires....and it doesnt have a smashed in 1/4 panel. Cars awesome man, keep up the good work.