Pharaohabq

I saw some just like those a few weeks ago, up there and drooled for a week, but I got way too many other things planned, but those are pretty nice looking... how about Silicone sealer to seal them with, it is water tight and easy to cut w/ a blade, and cleans right of with GooGone... Phar

Now I did search and I didn't bring up anything on this subject, and I know Jeep Engines are too heavy and though torque-y But, I was thinking, "What ways can we improve MPG on out L28 engines either NA or T?" Well A while back I swapped my AMC Jeep 4.2L Crappy carb setup to basically the Mopar EFI kit. The Mopar Multiport EFI is more efficient than stock L28 Bosch system. I built my own using junkyard/Ebay parts here's a link off my ProjectJeep Site: http://www.projectjeep.com/Projects/EFI.html The EFI improved my Jeep milage from about 13MPG to closer to 18 or 20MPG. Okay, I know there's a lot of differences between the AMC 4.2 and the Nissan L28, but the Mopar MPI System is still a possibility, since the EFI works also with the 2.3L AMC engine too. Basically as I understand it, the Jeep Computer will try to figure the correct mixture regardless of engine size. (Yes I know I could do Megasquirt, but this is pre-setup though the fuel maps may need tweaking) The Mopar EFI has a few main components, Manifold, injectors, ECU, O2 sensor, temp, MAP sensor, TP Sensor, Distrib sensor and CPS sensor. Some also use a Speed sensor. I'm talking the ODB1 version (pre 96, mostly 94') the ODBII stuff is a little more of a pain. I am not going to go into the how of all this unless its more feasable through our discussions. But I'd like to talk more of the similarities between the Bosch System, and the Mopar EFI. Of course, Both Bosch and Mopar EFI have manifolds, and very similar injectors (plugs look the same anyway) The Bosch system doesn't have a MAP Sensor or a CPS (crank position sensor) because Bosch uses the Air Flow Meter(AFM) I don't know about the TPS or what kind of Distrib ignition timing Bosch uses, so these may be an issue. Both Bosch and Mopar use Fuel return lines back to the Fuel tank for the overpressure off the Fuel regulator. (though Mopar also can use a non-return system w/ a later Fuel pump, which works well in my Jeep) Ideally, a Mopar AMC Manifold could be adapted to fit an L28, but I'm sure there'd be fit and position spacing issues which would open it's own can of worms so to speak. So I'd assume then we'd need to use a stock L28 Manifold. Putting the MAP on an L28 is Simple, just plug a hose in. The throttle body may be a bit different. We don't need the MAF anymore, So we can remove that, but the Throttle body, or more importantly the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) which mounts to the side of the throttle body may be hard to fit to a stock L28. We'd likely need to get a throttle body off a Jeep or another compatible GM car. (likely need to see what other vehicles used the same TPS and aquire the largest one it's compatible with. ) The O2 sensor may need to be changed to a newer type, but it'll just screw into the Exhaust manifold somewhere down the line. (might have to install a threaded boss for this, any Exhaust shop can do it, or supply parts.) the Temp sensor can be put anywhere in the water cooling system. Though, Jeeps require 195 degrees thermostat, the 180 degree that an L28 takes shouldn't make a difference. Leaving the stock one in place will ensure your temp gauges still work. Next is the two harder parts to figure. The Distrib position sensor, and the CPS. The Crank Position Sensor (CPS) on a Jeep, is what allows the computer to know where the crank is positioned, and on what cycle the engines cylinders are on. Basically these are the two most important sensors since the engine will not start w/o them. Now how Mopar got around not mounting the CPS next to a toothed flywheel was to make a Harmonic Balancer that had teeth that could be "read" by the CPS, mounted next to it on the engine front. I don't know how compatable a Mopar Performance Harmonic balancer would be, but it may be possible to modify a stock balancer with the correct notches (it's a pain, was why I bought one for my jeep) but it could work. Hopefully the crank on an L28 could take a heavier Mopar Balancer, but we'd have to test fit one to see. I don't think the extra weight on a Mopar balancer would affect the engine performance much if any. Lastly the Distrib sensor, I know that's not the right name, it's a cam sensor or something. In anycase it just tells the computer when to make the spark for the plugs, handles ignition timing and all that so it's pretty easy. but how to make one work on an L28. I'll need to look into the S130 Distrib sensor and see how it works. I know you can buy just the Sensor that goes in an Mopar Distributor, but I'm not sure the similarities. So what do you think? Phar:icon32:

Thanks for the great input guys! Yeah, I was thinking of doing some mods, like adding the L28ET etc. and I've already got the 280Z so, maybe I'll wait on the 240. (it's sat for 14 years, maybe it'll stay longer) The 240 is/was tempting though, but my wife "doesn't want a car lot" in our yard. I'm not sure I'll pass it up, but I'm leaning tward letting it go until I get my 280Z "done". Thanks again Phar

You might consider saving those and adapting them into your Z, Guaranteed they're more comfy than a stock 240 seat. Phar

That looks nice! looks like a shiney VG30DE. What Tranny you put in? Would a TT engine have fit in there? Phar

Okay, I'm suffering something of a conumdrum. I have an almost rust free 78 280Z that I'm looking at fixing up. Maybe to swap in a L28ET into. But recently I found a 72' 240Z in almost the same condition for $1000 bucks, though it's been sitting for almost 15 years in a New Mexico front yard.. My question is Which Coupe is a better candidate for restoration and upgrading? Is there much stock performance difference between the models aside from the engine and transmission which I will likely swap anyways for the L28ET? 30 vs 36 years, were there any major changes redesigns other than the spare tire size? I just want to know if it's worth spending another $1000 bucks on an older car, especially since I can really only afford to fix up one at a time. [edit] ooh, just read the sticky.. Sorry if this was answered already up there. Thanks Phar.

Hey Speed, what hood are you using on that 240? Phar

You really should pass that one up and look for a better shell, most have some rust, but there's a lot of southern cars out there that aren't even close to as bad. There's a saying about polishing a turd... look around a bit, I'm sure there's a few more around that are in a lot better shape. For instance I got my 78' 280Z for $400 bucks, w/ barely some paint bubbles. sure that's rust, but it's not even close to through the metal. Of course I'm in NM and rust is a lot less common... Also, think twice about a 2+2, I've found them to be less nimble and frankly less attractive than the coupes... Phar

My God.... It's full of STaRZ!.. Derek, that's an amazing manifold. please please get it going soon, the suspense is deadly... all I can say is WOW. For the back triple I guess it wouldn't work to cast the same upside down. since the Injector bosses would be on the wrong side then. Perhaps in the production casts, you could make them swapable. Though I suppose it's just as easy to make the 2nd cast unique.. So once these are figured, what would a ballpark cost be if say we wanted to order a set? Phar "pardon my drool..."

Have you tried cleaning your projector lenses, and or upgrading to HID lighting?