Pharaohabq

Hmm okay, my thoughts here. You're running the vacuum from bank1 and bank2, pulling vacuum from both manifolds via a tube by #6 horn, and your MAP in going to be in the log as well as your IAC right? I don't think it would cause any one cylinder to run lean as all injectors would get their mixture based the effective draw from both manifolds due to your balance tube as read by the MAP. If you ran individual tubes to each horn, then you'd get a slightly more accurate draw on your vacuum across all the cylinders, and more efficiency but I doubt it would be measurable. I don't think mixture will really be an issue if your compression is pretty equal across the engine (not really compression, but intake draw per cylinder, if you know what I'm saying) in that your mixture is based on the air pressure difference between inside the intake, and outside ambient pressure. Since your manifolds are balanced through the cast tubes, your injectors should be putting out the correct mixture. Your IAC is going to be affecting how well your engine Idles, of course. So having a more constant vacuum for it to work with will make it easier to hold the idle at a consistant rate. When I swapped EFI into my jeep, I found that having the vacuum reservour connected evened out my idle in that the IAC wasn't trying to adjust for pulses in the vacuum. So that may be your only issue with only pulling vacuum off 2 manifolds IMHO. looking at your design, I really don't see how it's going to be a problem, in that each cylinder draws air/fuel in one at a time, so if you've got the vacuum draw at your #6 cylinder, when cyl #1 hits intake, it'll draw air from the IAC past the closed intake of #6 and all the other cylinders mix it with fuel (measured for correct ratio by the computer reading the MAP) into the cyl for combustion... etc etc. Think of it on a momentary basis. If you're really worried, you can pull vacuum between the banks, but I don't think it's necessary. also the amt of air for idle is very small in comparison to normal driving. One thing, Your MAP needs to read Vacuum from the Intake side or Booster side of the block, since it needs to read engine vacuum, not the needle valve side of the block. Maybe drill and mount it on the back lower section of the block. You can have it read vacuum from anywhere on the manifold too. I'd suggest a "T" between the two manifolds. So don't worry I think your design is awesome. you shouldn't have any trouble. God, I hope that made sense... Phar

My thoughts exactly. I don't know how many times I've had cigs plink off my car when some assmunch flicks a butt out the window. Pisses me off. Sucks about the car... How's the interior shape? hehe Dash? Center console? hehehe I'm amazed the hubcaps stayed on, I used to lose mine left and right. I probably replaced 4 of them, and spent 10 hours backtracking, looking for the ones I found and didn't have to replace. Phar

Listen to you mom about saving for college. You should be saving a good chunk for it since college will give you the extra cash to keep your Z running 5 years from now okay 15 years, or of course to mod up more Z's later you know, make the collection... Not to mention getting married one day, or GASP! buy a house w/ a big garage to work on the Z's in... one w/ a lift and fancy tools etc etc etc. Just go to college, n don't rely on your parents for tuition, they're going to have fun trying to pay for retirement. I'll get off the soap box now...

it's a 2mm gasket, they don't make a .2mm, that's thinner than a sheet of paper. Well, let her drive you car, that's probably the easiest way to get her in it... unless you have doughnuts. now I can't tell you the best way to get in her in it, cept that the passenger seat probably has the most room.

Okay, I've searched, and I've heard it said both ways, that an older 04-06 6sp MT WILL bolt up to a 2007 Vq35. I've also heard it WILL NOT. So what is it? will it or won't it. according to the dealer, in nov 06 they changed the trannys to a new part #, but even my dealer could not tell me if it would fit. If someone could post a photo of the front of a Z33 tranny I could try to match up the holes to see if it would fit. It would be good to know what they've changed between the years. it could just be additional sensors? Maybe an inprovement over the 03 faulty bearing issue? Lets see what we can figure. thanks Phar

I was going to say, Got a doughnut? my wife hates my Z, takes too much time from her, but now she won't ride in it unless she gets to drive... now wait till it gets the VQ in it.. hehe.

Very nice, I might do this with my VQ swap too. It really looks nice all closed up. Tho I was thinking I might move the stock hood mount to the upper corners on my hood, and possibly add a second stock latch to the other corner. This is a thought, we'll see when I get there, but your setup just like your engine instal, is very nice, and very well done. Phar

hehe, I wonder how you're rating higher than the GF and the $ she's spent! heh

Yeah, actually earlier jeeps didn't need a return line either. When I EFI'd my 87' I used a fuel tank from an 97, which has the internal regulated fuel pump. made it easy. For this project, he's using a return, which is fine it's really a matter of preference, n since I doubt he'll easilly find an intank pump to fit, it would be a lot more work not to use a return. Phar P.s: Derek, you're making us drool telling us it's so close, but not putting pictures up!!!! c'mon! Good deal getting the manifolds basically done! Congrats on that, you're so close, I can hardly wait to see your install day picts! shouldn't take too long, (depending on your extra cleanup work I suppose, gotta clean your engine if I remember correctly)

If you replace your motor with a reversable heavy duty motor and PS, you can drill at almost any speed. I use a sewing machine pedal with mine. that way I can control the speed with my foot, and when I'm not using it, it's off. Reverses with a switch on the counter. Phar

Yeah, I'm content to wait and see.. you'll be upping your fuel pressure for the injectors anyway so it shouldn't be a big deal. I take it you won't be using a fuel return system with that type of injector setup, unless you're thinking from your injector block. You've definitely got the looks really cool part down. I'm in the Desert Southwest, (NM) and it does get hot here, but we don't have the FL humidity... I have had the fuel boil in my stock fuel rail, and unfortunately it does take longer than 10 mil to subside enough to get the car started again. Though It was better when I wrapped the rail with foil. mostly anyway. I hope your stainless tubing will be enough to keep vapor lock away. Running them above the throttle arms might still be an option if you have trouble. We'll see how it goes after you get it running, you've gotta be getting close to install time... Phar

yeah, so I didn't get a lot done this week since I've been down w/ a cold, and there's no heat in the garage. I did inspect the new VQ a little. looks like I'll need to find some Cats, a clutch pressure plate and clutch assy. the Wiring harness doesn't look to be cut, but it's going to be fun figuring out where everything goes. I know I won't need everything, but since it's there, I might leave a lot of it, but just put labels on everything. We'll see. So, for now, holding on health, weather and parts. Now an 07 ECU is proving difficult to find too. cheap that is. Phar

Hey looks good, I see how you've routed your intake fuel lines. that makes pretty good sense, though aren't you worried about heat from the head boiling the fuel? that's what I was trying to get at, but I guess we won't know till you try it, much like they were saying, you build it, then work out the practical application afterward. The stainless may make it a non issue. I was actually thinking about rounding the top of the injector holders about 15-20% rolling them will certainly remove the edges. I'm sorry my photoshot skills aren't the best. Hmm the air filters. how about the idea of inverting the bulbs then putting the filters deeper in the throats maybe with something to keep them away from the butterflies. that way it doesn't take anything from how your trumpets look. fully up to you, looks great already.... I'm really glad this project has already started turning into steady work for you. You deserve it, you've done an awesome job. Phar

Wow, yeah those injector holders look nice. though, I was thinking you might want to drill them at like 35-45 degrees (0 deg to the head) for the fuel barb/fitting since they're kind of close to the head. L28's as you know are a little hot headed, though the exhaust heat shield may be enough to prevent any issues. another idea is running your fuel like below the injectors, basically flipping that clamp 180. Maybe not enough clearance I dunno. Do you know anyone that can TIG you up a hard fuel rail which you could then have chromed? wouldn't that be pretty? As for Brass Screws, yes you can use them. a little locktight is a good idea though since they will expand and contract with the engine heat. Matching your screws to your butterflies material will help prevent them loosening, though locktight should keep your engine from eating one... Phar P.s: how hard would it be to round the top of those injector clamps about 5-10%? get rid of those sharp edges and stick with the round theme. polished up would look amazing. maybe like this: http://www.nmzcc.com/images/hosted/injector2.jpg

sorry about the double post, but I've been reading a little about the 06 Revup engines... you might want to make sure the one you get has a little higher miles to ensure it doesn't have the oil consumption problem, that is ~ 1qt/1k miles. apparently it only affected a few months of cars between nov 05 and march 06. so watch what engine you get. The nissan TSB has them replacing whole engines, and haven't noted exactly what the problem is. all the other engines should be fine, and especially any with over 5K miles should have either been replaced, or blown up before that point. So most engines you'll find for a swap should be fine. the VQ35 is a great engine. Phar,

Well, That's why I chose VQ for my car, and if you look around you CAN find cheap deals on the 350z version of the VQ, I just paid $500+shipping for my 07 350Z VQ35HR (22k). yeah I need more parts and accessories, but those I can piecemeal. I'm looking at 300+HP just stock, on a light 280z. I'll be going with the 6spd which other than some tailshaft noise in early versions, is a pretty stout tranny (which you can get cheap behind a lot of nissan dealerships). I'll be buying one for the 07 engine, to match the bell housing. then it's just stock electrics. The Nissan ECU's are supposively pretty good at managing the engine, though as has been said there's some pricy addon's you can do, but that's not cost effective HP. The VQ35 engine has been in the Ward's 10 best engines since 2002, and since 95' with the VQ30... Phar

okay, so I guess nobody bought that 03 off Ebay, ended w/ 1 bid, lucky guy. So my engine showed up today, I was going to take some pictures when I got home, so I'll post those later. Initial look, it looks prettty darn good. No shipping damage. clean clean too, looks new. The intake needs to still be tightened down, but it looks like it's all there. I thought it came with Cats, but I guess those weren't included. I'll have to see what I can find there, later on. Wiring harness, I need to go through, but I didn't see any cut wires. It has the flywheel, but no clutch bolted on so I'll have to find one of those too. All in all it looks pretty sweet. I gotta find an engine stand, to make it easier to go through the engine. I was thinking I might take off the oilpan and look at the bottom of the cylinder sleeves. I'm not sure if I should risk opening the bearings to check them out n risk anything. I guess if there's a problem w/ the engine there might be shavings in the pan. Always stuff to worry about when buying a cheap used engine. Anything else you guys think I should check out before continuing my build. I'll post picts soon.

wow congrats! I hope my build goes as well as yours. I'm impressed at how well you and 240hoke both have done your cars. Did your speedo idea work out? I am planning on trying to use stock gauges. Phar

Hey hope you feel better. You sound like Cough, Me, cough cough, gak, hehe yeah I just want to layingosnowboardingbed. I don't think I can got to work tomorrow, I'm sick. it's the 24"freshsnowinthepast48hoursflu.. , kinda think I might die... hehe too sick to do real work, but not too sick to work on your own projects. Phar

WOOOT! balls is balls man.... both ways this thing will be a rocket if I can make it run. Shipping company says tuesday or weds is should get here.. Really though thanks EMWHYR0HEN for the run down of differences. it really makes me happy I bought this one rather than the 03, tho the 03 came with engine mounts. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130275460237&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fmotors.search.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D130275460237%26fvi%3D1 It's got 15 hours left on it as of 4:30PM on 12/18/08 is anyone's looking for an engine... $900 bucks and free shipping. Tho that one doesn't look like it comes with an ECU either, or cats. The one I'm getting comes with cats but no ECU. Phar

Hehe, There's a lot worse things they could call you than "That Horney Z Guy" Sorry about that. Anyway, that box is going to look pretty cool, it always amazes me when you get something milled out like that. it's almost like you dream it up and poof (okay it's a multi-hour expensive poof) and there it is all created and ready to be cast. if anything I think your biggest problem will be high idle, tho that's as you know proportionate to the amt of air leakage. oh, where are you mounting the spring to snap these throttles shut? I assume you're using the stock throttle cable to pull them open. Phar

nice! found the 07 FSM on there, that'll help a lot. I'll look into the wiring diagram, that could be really helpful. I might be interrested in the BCM, but I'll need to check on model specifics, and see if I can get one with an ECU or not. I understand if I get them all from the same car, then likely I wouldn't have to have a dealer reset them for me. that may not be possible tho. Phar

Thanks, yeah, I'm still learning the differences in the trannys n such. The ECU/BCM combo will be the hardest part I think. but maybe I'll get lucky.. Where do you find your information on the HR? Oh also, The wiring harnesses, Does anyone know if the passenger compartment harness changed between 06/07? I imagine the ECU and BCU are probably paired, so I'll try to find the brains from the same source. but if the interior harness didn't change then it'll be a lot easier to find one. Anyone know where I can find a 350z FSM? Thanks, Phar. Phar

I'll probably be wanting one assuming I can find a decent 6sp 350z tranny at a low price. Thanks, Phar

I'm starting to amass parts for my VQ powered 280z. I've got a 280, I just bought what they said is a VQ35HR from an 07 350Z. The engine should be here next week and I can post better pictures. From what I can tell this engine uses two throttle bodies. I'll have the wiring harnesses, but I'm going to be looking for ECU/BCU for it, since the engine didn't come with it. (I'm paying $900 for the engine alone, so that's a pretty good deal, if it is all that they say it is.) Though there's another 03 VQ on Ebay right now for 900 as well, but I wanted the 07. How much do you all know about the VQ35HR, as compared to the VQ35DE? I would assume most of it is the same, though I imagine a DE ECU won't work with an HR engine right? I want to stick with stock electronics, just for the ease of wiring, but an HR ECU isn't very common. Aside from the throttle bodies, are there any other obvious differences between the engines? I'm looking for a 6sp tranny cheap, if anyone has a line on one. 240hoke, I might want one of your tranny adaptors too. Phar Updated HR picts: Plenum: Engine front: Intake ports Left side of engine sans PS, Alt. Engine Wiring harness: