Pharaohabq

looks like a crappy repair job. unless the rest of the car is in great shape, I'd keep looking, See that crack above the moulding? that looks like a bondo crack where they put it on too thick. maybe dent repair, maybe rust, I dunno. you don't know whats under there, so unless you're prepared to rip it all out and do some metal fab, I'd keep looking, (unless it's also a great price ) just be cautious and READ on here and on NICO about all the things to look for when buying an old S30, there's a lot of common trouble areas. it's just good to know what your'e getting into, and even have an idea of what price things should be. Phar

No, so wait, those new coils are stock Subi imprezza?? They don't look like they'd be too hard to fit. looks pretty nice for stock parts. maybe I should change me suspension... more picts please Phar Oh and Nice Cat...

Wow. well at that price, it's interresting, but it's 3x what I paid for the car hehe. just kidding. but really, maybe I'll wait till I break something and get an "upgrade opportunity" . I liked Monzter's idea of swapping the bearing races to Z31. How much stronger do you think your axles will be over a Z31 axle? You're using better materials/much better machining, but what's the comparison?

Well this sounds like something you need to INSTALL it all for first. Really, You should start off w/ all your needle valves shut and see how much air leakage you have in your ITB's. the IAC should allow enough air through to get you idling. I though you were going to use that BMW/NISSAN goo stuff to seal the throttle plates one thing to keep in mind is that since all your TB's are connected via the balance tube, each of your needle valves are going to have an effect on each of the other cylinders. opening one valve even a little will allow air into your balance tube rather than front to back of each TB. isn't that the function of the IAC? Maybe I'm wrong, and perhaps I should have spoken up sooner, but these balancing valves aren't going to be very useful in that sure they work for carbs to balance pull from cylinder to cylinder, but for EFI, especially on a batch fired system (MS) they're just going to make it harder for the IAC to do it's job controlling idle. if you didn't have a Balancing tube between each cylinder & between the manifolds, then yes these valves would be invaluable in balancing flow at idle. Using just one valve should allow you to adjust your idle. This, and the IAC could have been built into your manifold. I had an idea for this that you could just mount to the end of the balance tube by Cyl 3 6 or better between the two manifolds. I'll draw up a pict... of course, I've never built a manifold, and my EFI experience is limited to playing with GM EFI on a couple jeeps so maybe I'm wrong. if I am, please explain ... Phar

Been watching your progress, n I gotta say good job, it's looking nice. So what do you think a production set of these may cost? I'm putting a VQ35HR in my 280Z and prior to reading this thread I thought I'd be okay, but if V8's are breaking these my VQ may be too strong. I've got an 86 NA I'm going to swap 5Lug from and likely I'll be putting in a VLS or CVLS from a Z32/Z33. Initially I'll want to use the 86 rims till I get new wheels. What disk brakes could we use with your axles? I'm not sure the Maxima brackets/brake setup would still fit with your new offset??? Phar

Might as well snipe it yourself, bid at 15 seconds gives you time to rebid. it's up to you if you do and no worries if someone snipes you, it's the same game. Worthless to bid days in advance. it just lets people know you're interrested and ups the chance that they'll be waiting to rebid against you. the Watch item is your friend. just look out for shipping, it's the real killer. I've been bidding for years, I think I've been out sniped once. certainly not worth paying a monthy fee for a "service" Phar

So what made you decide on this engine? What Tranny and gear ratio are you going to be using? Something that size, You're going to have plenty of room in the front of the car. Phar

er I mean nice ... fin, yeah you know what I meant. I had a spoiler like that on my old 260z. pretty cool, Functional? I dunno, never seemed to make any difference, though in those days I rarely hit 90. I haven't put as much into my Z yet, I'm still trying to decide how full blown a restore I want to do. I guess taking the suspension out and replacing all the bushings is warranted, and since it's out, cleaning and painting is required. damn, it's hard to be lazy and restore a car at the same time. I think I'll get the front skirt before I spoil her. Black RTV works well for sealing seams. you might also look into a couple jugs of POR-15 for undercoating or areas where rust may come back. it's a pretty good rust inhibitor but there's plenty of other products that you might use. Phar

Yeah Keep your drops going, didn't they give you antibiotic drops to start with and some steriod rdrops to use for a couple 3 weeks? it was a lot of drops, but totally worth it. Worst part was in the first couple days, getting cat fur in my eyes n worrying about the flap, but it was all good. took about 2 months to get to where I didn't need any drops. Make sure you get all your drops from your dr. if you're still having pain you should call your dr rather than waiting for your appt, cuz you could be getting infection. Don't forget you're supposed to wash your hands a lot and no eye rubbing. Phar

I had mine Lasik'd by ColemanVision almost 2 years ago, it's been amazing, I still am amazed when I'm on the freeway and can read signs almost a mile ahead, I couldn't even do that with my glasses. I ended up at 20/10 vision though. I did give up being able to read tiny tiny lettering in side of dark computer cases w/o having a flashlight to help. it's no big, I love it, n it didn't hurt, no pain, all laser procedure. very nice Phar

Does it have black A pillar covers? I would like those... S30 only

Looks pretty darn cool! Me likee! I understand on the bank account side. it's after Xmas and $ is short all around Looks like it'll work, How hard was the machining for the IAC at the base? Phar

Yes, but will an older tranny bolt up to the VQ35HR? An 06 is way cheaper than an 07. okay not that much, but still easier to come by. The HR & VQ40 blocks may be higher, but that doesn't mean Nissan changed the bell housing. Anyone got pictures? Phar

That's good, maybe the rust is more cosmetic. you might take a hammer and do some tapping though... As for the L28, if you can get it going then great, if you have trouble, you might look into megasquirt'ing it since that's so much more modern a EFI system. I've wanted to try swapping GM efi onto one for the sequential EFI and the MAP to get rid of the AFM, but that's a lot of work. Curious how well it would run though. I'd be willing to help advise anyone who wanted to try the swap, I've done it on my jeep, n it was pretty easy... Phar

"Don't take your parts to Zcar heaven, God knows we need them down here!"

Okay so you gonna do the install this coming long weekend? (assuming you're taking MLK day off) Phar

Wow. N I thought I was geeky... hehehe Well, it all looks like it is a doable situation, though from what I understand MS doesn't do sequential injection so even if you find that your cylinders aren't even, how are you to fix them without changing to some more expensive EFI computer or piggy back? I'm still a fan of GM EFI, but without a piggyback, you can't change the individual cylinders either. Seems this project has become much more expensive. Your Carputer looks awesome! I'd thought many times about building one. Is yours touch screen? it certainly mates your Car requirements: Look cool.← Look really cool ← Actually run ← yup passed phar

Ahh, okay. This is more for a test bed, you're not going to be using 6 individual O2 sensors (read expensive) but that you'll have bungs in your header (i'd imagine brass plugs in the unused bungs) so you can move the O2 sensor from cylinder to cylinder and thus read how well each is firing.. right?? only problem I see with that, is that megasquirt will adjust your mixture based on what it reads from the O2 sensor. You could read the voltages manually (separate from MS) if you got a meter or Oscope and used an additional O2 sensor, and that might tell you exactly how each cylinder is firing, but you'll see differences based on a number of factors including the compression of each cyl, the engine temp at each measurment as well as I'm sure a few unknowns. Yes you'll see how well each cyl is burning it's fuel, but it will be harder to note if it's the manifold, or if it's the engine making the difference. I guess if you test each cyl like that before you swap then after you'll get a better idea of the efficiency. Sounds like a lot of extra work to me. As he said above the O2 sensor usually goes furthor down the line (OBDII uses 2, one befor the cat and one after) to measure efficiency and adjust mixture. Sequential vs batch firing EFI is a whole different animal. You get better mileage with sequential. but MS doesn't do that yet. You could swap to a GM engine computer and get an aftermarket harness, n it could possibly work. but since you've already started with MS, you probably shouldn't change horses so to speak. (tho I'm a fan of the GM Efi system) Phar

Yeah, Sounds like your Fuel pump is working, but maybe shutting down, Get a bucket and some tubing, pull loose the fuel line and attach the tube (caution it's under pressuer when the car is off still) but then put the hose in the bucket and try to start, see if the pump continues pushing fuel, if not then it's the relay, if it does then change your fuel filters and try again. Just a thought. Could be clogged from crap in the tank, it's common.

You might look into the VQ35DE swap. it's super light. Not exactly the easiest swap tho. but if you go this way, buy the engine, ecu, bcm, tranny, and driveshaft all from the same vendor if you can. there's deals to be had, you just gotta look for them. Phar

OUCH! $1500? That hurts, but I guess if it's all you could find, then she's priceless to you. How do the frame rails look? The area behind the front tires? It's got decent rims on it. and I've definitely seen more rust on a project. I paid $300 for my 78' with barely any rust (behind rear wheels). but I live in the SW, and took my time finding one. So, before you go buying a lot of parts. you need to get a good idea of what you want the end product to be. Are you going to stick with the L28 stock engine? What are you going to use it for, a daily driver? A show Queen? Are you going to stick with stock paint. There are tons of mods you can do. all it takes is time and money. Read and search all kinda of threads on here to get ideas. Once you have an idea what you want, then you're on your way, with the least amount of waste. Some people will say it's not, but I found Ebay to be a great source for parts, it just takes searching. Some other commercial sources for S30 parts and most other Z parts, are MSA.com, BlackDragon.com, and Datsunrestore.com. Those and various forums should get you about anything you need. Hybridz and Nico are about the best Z tech sites I've found. Lastly, you might look into you local Z or other car clubs in your area, they can hook you up with other people who are into Z's... Good luck, and welcome to the show... Phar Edit: oh and Awesome on the Pioneer Stereo, I love em..

You might look up AZZCC http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7808/ or any number of other AZ clubs. there's a ton.

No seat belts?? That's just dumbass. he's really lucky he's not paralyzed. a whole lotta bad stuff can happen at 30 MPH w/ no belt on, much much worse at 60. I'm not saying I don't feel bad for him, but it's all his own fault, not the rain or the road's, it's his.. Phar

You could use some Urethane Jeep Body lift pucks. They're about 3" round and up to 3" high. even usually come with grade 8 bolts. Let me know if you need links. Phar

I think it looks pretty sweet. Do you know if it'll fit the 6sp Trannies for the HR (2007+) engines? I imagine it will but if it won't fit would you offer refunds? Phar