lgoodson@pacbell.net

Well I even tried another signal switch but still no workie. All the wireing looks good and correct. You really have to try hard to screw it up. All of the connectors are mated so they only go together one way. As for the individual wires, I labeled them because there were some strange ones. Like a green wire into a white wire off the TS switch. Sombody's been playing so I labeled. I need help. What could the problem be? Checking my wiring diagram, the switch gets it's power from the brake switch through the hazard switch and only when you have the brakes on. That doesn't make sense. Can't find any other power at the TS switch terminals. All other wires go to the 4 corners for lights. Help Larry

As isaid, I changed the hazzard switch and it did not solve the problem. I know this switch to be good as it was in the dash I took out and it worked fine but thanks. Larry

I just installed another dash in my 71Z. Everything works except the turn signals. When I removed the dash I marked everything that was not color coded so I wouldn't have these problems. I swapped the harness out to use my original one so all of the wires would match up, as I said I had them marked. When I turn on the turn signals, nothing happens. Completely dead. The flashers work fine and so I can tell that the turn signal lights work and the tail and front lights work. The only thing that I can see that would be a problem is the turn signal harness socket or connector. It fell apart in my hands from age but it is still together and plugs into the dash harness just fine.Doesn't seem to be a problem. Any one have an idea on what I could check next???? There really is nothing else that could be wrong except the harness connector. I swapped out the hazard switch in case that had some thing to do with it but to no avail. They are connected according to my wiring diagram. Thanks for the help Larry

Does anyone happen to have a Heater Fan switch for a 240Z, 72 or 73. I think they are all the same. I need one right now. PM me if you do and we will do the deal. Thanks Larry

Just changed the valve covers and gasket. That's not the problem. I pulled the intake today and saw a spot where my finger had disturbed the RTV when I last installed the intake.There is not much to grab hold of at the back of the intake so that's how that happened. Check this out though. I sat the intake back into place using to old gaskets. I thought they would be compressed. I then checked to see if I could slide a buisness card under the intake, just to see if it was metal to metal. What I found was that there was a big space between the manifold and the block. I took a Autometer decal with the backing paper still on it and folded in half. I was able to slide the decal under the intake and it was still loose. This, to me, seems to be a problem. Maybe that is why the LT1's have a rear leak problem. What do you all think?? Could the stock gaskets be thinner? I used the bolt sealant last time. I'm not sure if it is needed. That's not where the leaking is. The T-56 reverse shifting problem turned out to be a bad ECM. Wasn't sending the lock out circut to ground. Put another computer in and the car shifts easliy ito reverse now finally. I have the "right stuff" in hand and will give it a try tomorrow. I think I will bolt on something to the rear of the intake to hold onto.

Tkanks for that tip on the permatex. I will give it a try. In a Datsun competition engine rebuilding book that I bought at MSA, the autor sayss to use Weather strip adhesive to seal up oil pans so I was goin to give that a try I think but the "Right Stuff" may be ta better way to go. Thanks. Can't drive the car with this oil leaking out. Don't want the mess.

I do believe that when I last installed the intake that I moved it slightly to line up the bolts, I tried not to do that but I did. As far a pressure in the crank case. I have 2 seperate breathers on one valve cover. One at the PVC valve location and a breather oil cap. There should not be any crank case presure. As far as cleaning goes. I know the importance of doing that. There is no sealant used on the heads and I made sure that the front and rear surfaces were clean and de-oiled with break cleaner. Going to try again this week end but I just wonder if the intake sits all the way down on the block at the rear. It seems like the Fell Pro gaskets might not let the intake sit all the way so there would not be a good seal.

Greg. I now have replaced the intake gasket 2 times and I just drove the car for maybe 10 miles and back in the garage I poped the hood and guess what. Oil leak. A big oil leak.Comming from the rear of the intake. Now I did what you and everyone said to do. I cleaned the surfaces real good with brake cleaner. I applied a generous amount of RTV on the rear and front of the block running it up the sides sealing the intake gaskets. I placed the intake on the heads and finger tightened the bolts and let it sit for an hour exactly. I then torqued the bolts using the GM torque pattern and to the Shop manuals specs. Still I have a leak. So I wonder if the Fel Pro intake gaskets are too thick and therefore holding the intake off the rear of the block, creating a gap. I don't know what it could be. What does any one think about this. I think I will take a look at GM's gaskets and compare.

I have a CLSD open and I went back and forth from my computer comparing the one in the add and there were clear differences between the two. For one thing, the clutch pack housing has a squared off end to it opposite of the ring gear. The one in the add has a beveled end instead of a flat perpendicular end. I have no doubt that the guy pulled it from a 87 Turbo car but people in need of cash are swaping them out for cash. As I said, I just pulled one like that up in SunValley a couple days ago. And I just bought a lsd from someone who was doing the swap for cash.

Tire size 25.6, Cam specs "stock" for a 93 Trans Am Tomorrow I'll take the car out and try that 5000 rpm trick. Thanks

Just as I thought

1993 Firbird T56. I am told that the 94 would be better. I would love 24MPG

Just saw this on ebay. Looks like a open diff to me I should know, I just pulled one yesterday out of a 77 Turbo that wasn't a lsd. $300. Check it out but be carefull. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300397989018&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123

Yea, I've got to find a good performance tuner for this car and see what is going on in the fuel system. I am still dialing in the speedo. I have the Cable-X box converter. Until I get the speedo right, I don't know what actual mileage I am getting. Irt's good to hear that the diff ratio shouldn't make a big problem for me. Now if I can solve the CV bottoming out problem. I might be ready to put the lsd in.

What I was talking about was the obstruction that you run into when installing 280ZXT CV's as they hit the swat bar attachment. The have bigger ends.

I have spent months looking for a clsd and I have fianally found and bought one but now I am wondering if the ratio is the best one for a T56. Right now, with a 3:36 I believe, the RPM's at 70MPH is 2000 and I still don't get very good milage. With a 3:70 I don't know. What does everyone think about ratios and what are you LT1 and LS guys running for street use not drag strip? Larry

mutantz. Thanks for the notice. I went to the Pick Your Part today, a 100 mile trip, and found the red 87 turbo. Pulled the shafts and then I pulled the diff, It didn't have a finned cover but I could see that the cover had been removed, I know that some people sell those covers to "drifter" guys for $150 or so, but when I pulled the cover off, it was a open diff. People are also swaping the whole diffs because they can get so much money for the LSD. A friend of mine bought a finned diff and when he giot it open, it was an open diff so there is a lot of this swapping going on. I just bought a lsd from someone who was doing just that, in his son's car. Any way there is a open diff aleady pulled laying under the car with the cover off. I bought the cover. It's a 3:70 ratio with a 162000 miles on it if anyone wants one. I have a couple of smooth covers if any one needs one. The CV's don't look too bad. I've been cleaning them up. No rips in the boots. Should work fine for a while at least then I'l get some rebuilt ones. $40 plus cores Thanks for the tip Larry

On this subject, do the 300zxt (z31) CV's still have the bottoming out problem. Jon has said that he has heard that maybe they do still bottom. Does anyone know for sure?

Deja, do you have a "bottoming out" problem that Jon Mortenson talks about in his article. My Z has been lowered so the axles are more level with the ground while at rest. Does your axles conflict with the sway bar hangers, I believe that is what gets in the way. Thanks

I had some one today tell me that CLSD diff were noisey. They clank going around corners. Is the true or not??? I just bought one for my 240Z and would like to know before I install it. By the way, what axles should be used and why?? I now the Z31 turbo CV's but which other ones would work with out binding? Thanks, Larry

Looking for a set of CV's for a 300zxt. 87, 88. or 89 Price depends on condition. PM me with what you have. Thanks Larry

Looking for a set of CV's for a 300zxt. 87, 88. or 89 Price depends on condition. PM me with what you have. Thanks Larry

Greg, I just went to the local Pick Your Part and found a couple of BMW's that had the pumps in them. I pulled the one from the BMW 633 and one from a 530. The 530 looked newer so I thought I would probably use that one but as it turned out the 633 pump was a lot quieter. Here's what I think. The 633 pump looked original and the 533 pump looked replaced so I think the original equipment is maybe quieter by design than the repalacement so you might want to buy a dealer supplied pump for a 1984 BMW 633. Both pumps are rated at 50 GPH and 100 to 110 PSI. The stock LT1 is rated at 50 GPH and 90 to 100 PSI. Both pumps are much quieter than the 280ZX Turbo that I had in it which just droned on over the Magnaflow. Just pick one up at the wrecking yard and try it. Look for a large BMW. 735 or 740 or 633 or the 530, vintage 1980's because that is when they had external pumps. They are about $20 used and $100 new I think. Autozone is the place where I get this info. Really happy with mine though so far. It's just barley loud enough so I can hear it is running so that I know it is running before I start the engine and after start up, I can't hear it at all. My pump is mounted using the 280ZX rubber insulated mount. The pumps are almost the same size. Any experience with Dynamat Extreme sound proofing. I am about to start that process . I would like to be able hear the radio at 70MPH Larry

Sounds like DeJaVu. My exact build