lgoodson@pacbell.net

Jhm,, Thanks for the link. It will be real helpful. I have already downloaded the 72 FSM. Can't seem to find a 71 FSM but it is close enough. The relay turned out to be the Horn relay but I don't understand why the left courtesy light is getting its signal from there. I determined that it's failure is simply a short in the light socket. East fix Thanks, Larry

Greg. The other thing to look at is that the pulleys are already as close to the brackets they can go so you could only space them out and to me that would make things worse.

I just measured my ac delete pully and it is 2 3/4" bought a Pepboys. I have maybe 3/8" clearance to the frame rail. No evidence that that anything is hitting.

No ac, go to Kragen and get Gates 60620. 62 5/8" for your stock bracket with the AC and PS delete pulleys. They fit fine but I just keep wearing out the inside edge. Any Ideas what might be causing that?

I had the same AC delete pully and it was a little tight. I went down to Pepboys and went through there pully selection and found a 5 rib that was slightly smaller so I think I have enough clearance. Maybe not. I got the PS delete from PSCmotorsports. My belt wears out on the inside to but I can't see where it hits or rubs anything. The rack bracket was too close so I moved it and I have a new belt on it again with no miles yet, I'll look at that AC delete situation. If you figure anything out, let me know. Thanks

Yea, I wasn't actually the one who sat the motor in the chassis. It was there in place when I bought the car. Not hooked up to anyhting but in there. The PO didn't slot the perches so moving it forward would be a problem at this point. Drive line, exhaust pipes, rear mount etc would have to be changed. The other problem is that the bell housing is almost right up against the firewall. I was going to move the engine when I was installing it but it looks as though doing so would run the headers into the steering shaft so I didn't do it.

I wonder if anyone could tell me what this relay is for. It is located on the driver's side kick panel. It is 3/4" X 1 1/2" in size. It has 3 terminals with the middle one having two wires attached. There is one wire that goes to the courtesy light on the driver's side which is not working Any Ideas???? Thanks Larry

No I didn't do any thing to the pump before install but I didn't know I would have a problem. The oil cooler one I saw was bent in a little, I figure from a front end collision so I was hoping it was ok. It's not leaking exactly, just seeping. So far there is nothing hitting the garage floor. The belt thing, I don't know. Every thing looks good but somthings not right. These belts are $32 each and I get less than 100 miles per belt. I move the U bracked that I know the balancer had hit because I could see a nick in the clamp. Maybe that will do the trick. A 6 3/4" balancer from Summit is almost $400. Ouch!

Looking for a LT1 waterpump to fit a 93 TA engine with the oil cooler nipple. Also looking for a Harmonic balancer. I have a 7 1/2" outside to outside and I need something a little smaller. Clearance to the Rack issue

deja. what size plug since I have 2 that are leaking 1/2"??

No worries about that but I just found 2 new problems. Harmonic balance hitting on ther rack U clamp. I moved the U clamp over over but there is still only 3/16" maybe between thw ballancer and the rack. I have a 7 1/2 inch ballancer so Iwill probably get a smaller one. I am on my second fan belt. Something is making the inside of the belts wear. Less that 100 miles on it. I have checked the edges of all the pulleys for nicks and found nothing that would break a belt. Any Ideas what it could be.. While I was having fun under the car I also noticed that the pressed in hose bibs on the water pump are leaking so that means drill and tap or a new pump unless you have a better idea

Update: deja, since you have been so much help I wanted to let you know how it turned out. Looking at the wiring diagram for this 71, I noticed a tap into the green/white wire that I was using for the tach signal. This tap had a resister in it and then went into a black wire. The tach needed none of that so I ran a new white from the coil to the tach and now it starts fine and the tach works fine. I think problem solved but I won't know for sure until tomorrow morning when it gets started for the first time of the day. Thanks for the help

That roll gage looks a little low????

The tach is hooked to that white wire off the pigtail which is where my LT1 harness guy said to put it but the white wire is run through his harness and then connects up to a green/white wire at the fire wall. This wire terminates at the harness connector behind the dash which I have the Autometer hooked to. I don't know if there is anything else along the way that might be tied into the green/white wire that could be causing a problem. I need to find a wiring diagram for the 71 240Z. Update: I just fire it up and it started right up so It has to be the tach that was causing the problem. All I did was cut the white wire. Now where's that diagram?

deja, Thats quite a post, Thank you. I will study it and the links you gave me, but here's an update. The car hasn't been started for a couple of days but today I cut the wire from the negative terminal of the coil to the tach just to see if it would start better, Guess what? It fired right up without any hesitation so the tach must be grounding out the coil but why would it run normally after it has been started? Either the coil is shorted or it is not? The true test will be if it starts up good tomorrow, When I installed the tach I combined all the ground wires together. There is the Tach ground, 2 signal grounds and 2 panel light grounds, I wired them all the stock harness connector which has a harness ground to the system. Thats a lot of wires. Could these grounds wired the way that I did be a problem? What do you think. By the way it is a Auto Meter Phantom Tach so it shouldn't be a problem.

Greg. whree did you get that 3-way front tower brace. Been trying to find one? Your engine compartment looks really nice although it looks more crowded than mine

The sensor on the head is for the Temp gage. The temp sensor on the LT1 is plugged into the waterpump. That is one that needs to be checked but you need a Tech 1 which is the GM test apparatus. Not sure what throttle plates are but nothing has changed since before I installed the Autometer Tach when it was starting fine. I push on the throttle by force of habit but I am trying to brake myself of that habit. Use to carburation. Thanks for the help Larry

Nice wound It looks like it could have been pretty serious. But it looks like it is healing ok, Give it a week. All those guns. Are we getting ready for a war? Maybe, Huh? Those guys and there rock climbing. I watch them on TV and I see them destroying some pretty expensive machinery. I can't understand why they do it but there must be a logical reason, Well maybe not logical. All that I know is that I could not afford the repair bill. Still haven't got my truck back and it will probably be another couple of weeks The jet ski sounds fun but when I had my Flat Bottom, friends of mine had those and I could never stay on one. Flat Bottom??? Now there's a money pit. Big time but I was younger then. Get well soon . Get too bored, come over and figure out why this LT1 wont start

Here's another question. Lately this LT1 is gotten to be a little hard to start the first time each day. After that it fires right up and runs great. But when I try to start it, it pops back through the TB and sends smoke or fuel into the air and I fight it for about 3 to 5 minute and finally it starts. What I notice is that if I keep my foot off the pedal it will start better and when it does it starts at an idle. It is, at this point, flooded and I have to clear it out and then it runs fine. The Helms shop manual for the engine says to check the fuel pressure which I have and it is right where it is suppose to be, 41 to 47 prior to start and 3 to 10 lbs lower after starting. It's correct. But it acts like, with all the cranking I have to do to start it, it is flooded Is anyone out there a fuel injection expert? Next I am going to test the MAP and the coolant temp sensor which I guess causes hard starts according to the manual. The funney thing is that it started fine before installing a new AutoMeter Tach. Then it dsat for 3 months and now it won't start when cold and it's not that cold. Any ideas???? Thanks Larry

What should I expect out of this 93 LT1. It is completely stock except for headers and a 2 1/2 to 3" exhaust with a Magnaflow out back. All smog has been removed. The engine is rated at 275 hp. I have been told that 25 to 28 MPG is possible from a 450 hp LS motor so if so, I should be getting somthing close. The car weighs only 2200 LB. It has the T-56 and the stock 3.36 rear end. So far it seems to be going through fuel pretty quickly but I haven't drove it enough to check it. What are you LT1 guys getting for mileage? Thanks for the input Larry

That youTube video was very interesting, There is a lot of good info there if you want to repair your vinyl. Thanks for the link. From reading some of the links there, I believe that the cracks can be repaired. There is a person here locally that does that I believe. I will be talking to him and let everyone know if it can be done.

Well if it's the foam that is the problem then why is it spliting and drying out. I have the dash out of the car right now so could something be done to restore the moisture or flexability to the foam. Some one in the upolstry repair industrey should have some information on this. Would maybe steaming it help or injecting some type of lubricant into or through the vinyl. There must be something we can do to retard this problem. I've heard pros and cons on Armorall but I have had good results with it but I want to research it before I apply it the my Datsun dash, But I did have a 85 Chev Silvarado with a Charcoal dash that after a few years I noticed that the charcoal was getting lighter, as if it was oxidising. It was almost medium grey at this point. I thought it was ruined but a I applied some Armorall and it looked better but not quite right. But I noticed after a few weeks, to my suprise, the dash looked like new. Completely restored so I came to the conclusion that Armorall has some preervative qualities. This dash had never had tjhe bennifit of a sun screen in the window and the dash looked great when I sold the truck after 9 years of owenership.

I have the lt1 and my oil pan sits about 3 1/2 inches off my garage floor which makes it the same distance as my 2 1/2 exhust, The exhaust is up as tight as possible with less than an inch clearance to the floor boards which was heating them up pretty good. So I took diamond plate aluminum and made some heat shields that I attached to the floor board between the exhaust pipes and the floor keeping a 1/2" space from the shield and the floor for ventilation and it seems to have done the trick. No more hot floor boards. The air space is very important, I also fashoned a deflector to isolate the clutch slave. So far every thing works good. MY car has been lowered a couple of inches I was told by the PO and judging by your measurements, I think that is about right. I have 2 2 1/2" pipes back to the diff where there is a 3" resenator after the Y pipe and then 3" single pipe out back to the Magnaflow. And it roars when you get on it.

Would the AC system out of a 78 fit behind the dash of a 240Z. Has anyone done this and what would be the problems. I would like to have air in the car.

I just bouhgt a dash for my 240Z today. It looks good and at first glance you don't see any cracks but if you look real hard you will see the start of some cracks along the windshield trim. The car had been sitting for years under a carport down by the beach but I wonder Does any body know how to stop the cracking from getting worse. Is there some kind of adhesive that could be used to strenghten the future crack points? Would Armoral help the plyabilty and therefore help resist cracking. IT looks good now but what can be done to stop the spread? Thanks Larry