lgoodson@pacbell.net

I have a couple of the clocks, non working. I have a post under parts for sale as of yesterday for clocks and such. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=155248

Everyone keeps talking about these racks but I can't find where anyone has what the year models they were from. Anyone know?

$100 was a fair price and it stands. For both a air meter and computer from the same 75Z. PLus shipping

nope

I have a AFM and the matching computer out of a 75. $100 for both in Orange County or I can ship to Big Bear probably for 15 to 20 more bucks. PM me. I have been told that the AFM and computer need to be a matched set. Mine are

Does anyone know what the spline count of the VLSD in the 1988 300zxt. I want to identify it to determine if it is a Vlsd or a Clsd

Now I understand. I read on one of the posts thst the fluid could be change to increase the locking power of the diff, guess not. Thanks Larry

Does any know what the viscosity of the oil should be for getting the tightest setup.What is the viscosity of the stock oil. I suppose Nissan can tell me that but they probably can't recomend a change.

So Satan. Do you know of that happening to anyone and how often?

J Soileau Why do you think the VLSD is not as good as a CLSD for track

Thanks everybody, it's mine, bought and paid for. I was told it was out of a 89 but eveyone here tells me that it only came in a 88 SS so that's what it is. Yes I have been looking every where. On 10 or 15 craigslist locations but I missed that one for $300 on Ebay. Persistance pays off.

Has anyone used one of these. They are V not C lsd. I have a guy that will sell me one with half shafts but I don't know if I should do it. My car will be about 400 hp before I am done with it and it will be capable of being used as a daily driver and maybe a trip or two to the track. Will also take it up to the mountains for some corners. Is this a good buy and should I do it? What do you all know? Thanks Larry

I am actively looking for a clsd and have found a few but they range in price from 550 to 750 and that's for a pig in a poke if you know what I mean. Ran accross a 87zx today in the yard but it was not a turbo. Also saw a Q45 Not knowing what condition these diffs are in, I think 250 or 300 is more reasonable unless you can rebuild them your self.

Piston: One and the same. The picture to me did not look right either. It didn't look like a 95ZXTT and it did look like a open R200. He is suppose to send me the serial #'s so I can check with you guys or Nisson (not sure of the spelling) Flash!! Just got an email from the guy. He sold it!! The one in Dallas just sold on EBAY for $760 plus shipping. Too rich for my blood!

What is it? I am being told that it is out of a Annversary 300ZXTT maybe 95? He doesn't know. He says that the serial numbers indicate that it is a R230 but he says that it is a long nose and he advertised it as a R200 because that is what it looks like. He days that it is not a CLSD but it is a LSD. If you hold the drive shaft flange, you cannot turn the axle shafts but if you spin the driveline flange, the axles will turn in opposite directions. I am trying to find a diff for my 240Z LT1. Will this one work? I just found another whole subframe with a diff, axles and brakes out of a 95 300ZXTT if any one wants one. Let me know. That makes two. They must be plentyfull. Appreciate any help identifying the on in the pic. Larry

I added some duct tape to the shrink wrap and I think I got it toned down. Can't see any light now. On the test bench that is.

Jody, I did an install of an Autometer tach today. It wasn't simple. The tach housing has a rimm at the face that prevents it from fitting into the stock housing. That had to be removed by bench grinder. Then I find out that the autometer housing is not very true. It starts out at 4 1/2" but gets bigger at the front so as to not fit in the stock housing. More grinding. As for mounting the tach, the two studs that are on the back do not match the mounting points in the 240Z. The 280Z mounts differently so that might not be a problem. I relocated the studs. Installed the led lights from Radio Shack and they work fine but even after putting the shrink wrap over the back of them they still look like they are always on. Maybe black paint would have been better after all. I am buried in wires though. There are 4 lights and that means 8 wires plus 3 for the tach its self. No such thing as a common ground and just one ground wire. I have 5 ground wires, I think I am going to re think it tomorrow. After the shrink wrap, did you try something else? Or are you just living with it. Wish I could drive this thing. I just work on it, when I can find the time that is. Larry

Wire it to your brake switch. It works fine but sometimes you don't feel like you need your foot on the brake to shift into reverse so it can be a pain but you wont hit reverse by mistake. The computer does the job just fine if you have one except mine doesn't seem to want to work so I use the brake.

Are we talking about the Cabel-X box because I am about ready to install one. Bought it on Ebay for about $255 but besure to get one with a metric (5/8) connector like I didn't so I will have a speedo shop redo it and shorten it. I plan to install it behind the Window washer tank. Snug as a bug, Couldn't get a 280Z tach to work with this LT1 so I have bought a Autometer white face tach instead.

Last November I bought a 71 with a LT1 and T56 sitting in the chasis. The engine was out of a 93 TA. Very good paint and body and a new interior. Tires fair with 15" Z rimms. The engine and trans was not hooked up, just sitting there with the JTR kit and Sanderson headers. About $1500 later it was running and getting sideways in 1st and 2nd gears. I paid $4000 for the car and given the condition of the car itself not counting the drive train, I felt that I got a good deal. The engine was not runing so I didn't know if I was buying a pig in a poke or not but as I turns out the engine and trans and clutch run strong. So $5500 for it with all the basics to get it on the road but I am still putting money into it like a Autometer tach cause I couldn't make a stock one work with the LT1 and a Cable-X box to make the speedo work as the T56 has no provisions for a mechanical speedo. Then there will be coil overs so I can get wider tires on it and Power windows and of course air conditioning and maybe power steering for those wide tires. When I get done my $4000 bargin will probably cost me $8500 to $10000. What are they worth? Depends on who's buying. To me engines are a dime a dozen. It's the frame, body and paint and interior where the money will be spent to get something nice. I see LT1's going fpr $500 and about the same for a T56. How much do you want it?

It's a T56. No provision for a machanical speedo therefore I can't make the stock tach work. I've tried 3 280Z tachs and one 240Z tach with no luck. The trans does have a VSS (vehicle speed sensor).

Looking for a 5" tach and speedo, in dash for my Z. Would like a white face, maybe the Phantom but what have you.

Rsicard. The rear of the 240 tach and the 280 tach are different. JTR says that the 240 will not work with a HEI ignition, The 280 does not have the power loop. It has just one signal terminal plus the 12v and ground wires. The signal terminal is suppose to be connected to the negative side of the coil or so everyone says but it doesn't work very well if at all. I don't know but maybe the 240 tach would work if connected the way you sugest, in the positive to the tach. I will try it. I didn't mean to insult anyone but alll I was getting was " I don't knows" from everyone. The 93 LT1 is an odd ball, one year only.

I have a 93 LT1 and am unable to get the tach to work. I have followed JTR's instructions but they admittantly don't know any thing about LT1's. I have tried a 78 and 2 76 tachs with no luck. They are being hooked to the negative terminal on the coil which is where they are suppose to be hooked up. The 78 tach works a little bit but not much. Any Ideas? This is a 93 LT1 so there is no ECM hook up.

Here is a question that nobody seems to have an answer for. How do you make the stock tach work with a 93 LT1. 94 and newer no problem but a 93 big problem. I have a 240, a 76 280Z and 78 280Z tach that I have tried. I have hooked the white wire to the negative side of the coil and while I get a signal, it's not even close to working right and that's with the 78 Tach only. Don't even mention JTR because they don't have a clue.