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lgoodson@pacbell.net

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Everything posted by lgoodson@pacbell.net

  1. Yea, I'll try that test, I just put a new intake gasket on the engine because I had a oil leak at the rear. I don't have the leak any more and there arn't very many vacum lines in fact I believe there is only 2. Brake assist and fuel regulator which seems to be working normally.But I will also check around the throttle body. That's an old trick. I learned it back in the 60's Re-Reading what GM says about the crankcase ventilation, You are correct. It says that operating the engine without any ventilation it could be damaged so they say to be sure to replace the valve and hoses as needed. Yea, I get nothing in the way of vacum at the throttle body at Idle.
  2. Ok. There are some great posts here while we all try to figure this out so let me answer some questions. The pump I am now useing is off a 94 BMW 633. It is rated at 100 to 110 PSI and 50 GPH. The reason for switching to this pump is that it is Quiiiiet! Unlike the 280ZXT pump. I picked up a couple of different pumps at the local Pick A Part just to see if I could find a quieter one. The stock fuel pump for the LT1 is rated at 90 to 95 psi and 55 gph so I don't see much difference, I get theses numbers from AutoZone's web site where they list the specs for the different pumps. The fuel pressure indicated by the gage I have on the Pressure line is reading right at the required pressure that my shop manual states that it should be. 47 Psi before start and 39/40 after start up. So the excess presure is bled off through the return line. I wouldn't think that this would be over powering the fuel injectors but I am getting poor mileage and the injector noise is loud when I put a listening device on the fuel lines and regulator. I even can here them while sitting in the car. As far as the PVC line is concerned, I have been running the breather on one valve cover as the othe cover does not have a hole. My shop manual states that the engine is suppose to be a sealed unit and I should have vacum at the dip stick if everything is in place. They say that with out the sealed system, engine damage could occur. I have since installed a hose and PVC valve off a camarro I found at the salvage yard just to see if there is any difference. While I was doing that I noticed that I do NOT have any vacum at the throttle body connection point. The manual says, in that event, check for leaks: valve covers, oil pan etc. I have no leaks so I don't know about the lack of vacum? I do notice that the idle is not real consistant. Some times it idles down to 500 or so and I think that could be as a result of a vacum leak so I am still checking. What is causing thr noise from the lifters at the fuel lines. The lifters themselves seem to be normal. Larry
  3. Thanks for that link. Looks like it will be a good one
  4. Forgive my ignorance but what is WBO2. I don't do fuel injection work so I have a big learning curve to overcome. Thanks for the help
  5. RTz, I agree but where would you start. The car seems to have a lot of power but I have no experience with LT1's. I can easliy break the tires loose in 1st and 2nd. I see no smoke indicating a rich condition. The car runs fine just doesn't get any economy. What would you suggest that I check. I h ave new O2 sensors on the way. Larry
  6. 93 T56 and 3.36 or so I believe. I think it has the stock rear end and 3.36 gears should give me better mileage rather than worse. I have ordered some GM O2 sensors. We'll see if that helps. Also I have sent an email to PCMs For Less to see if they did something. They say that they did nothing to cause the problem but without a Data Log,they can't say what's wrong but they say that they would think I have a bad sensor. Which one, they didn't say. Can anyone tell me wh at a Data Log is and how do I get one?
  7. I haven't did a vacume test yet but if I place my finger over the port at the throttle body, I don't feel any suction. The manual says to check for engine leaks like valve covers and pan gasket. I have no leaks. Can't explain the lack of vacum yet. In Calif. 75 and older= no smog check. I picked up a crankcase valve and hose at the wrecking yard off a 94 Z28 but with no vacum, no difference was made. The reason I am concerned about mileage is because I want to drive this car places other than to car shows like to Vegas or to Texas or lots of places and at over $3.00 per gal, it adds up. Besides, when people on this web site tell me that I should get 22 to 28 MPG if I do this swap and I spend the money to do the swap, I think I should get what I was told I would get or at least come close. My last mpg check yesterday revealed a whopping 11.2 MPG around town and I was trying to keep my foot out of it and shifting in the low 2000 rpms and still no mileage. What is wrong here? Right now my Dodge Ram 2500 is in the shop for some metal straightening so th Z is my primary. PCMS For Less did the chip reprogram. If that had not been done the car would not event start. Security concerns you know, Vatts I believe it is called. I should check with them to see if they did anything to cause the poor fuel economy. The reprogram was done by the PO Data logging or power tuning is something I haven't done or even know where to go to have it done and have it dynoed. Just still geting the bugs out
  8. I bought my car with the engine in it but not hooked to any thing. The radiator was there and motormounts and headers were there but I still spent over $2000 getting it on the road, For instance: Wireing harness 300 Exhaust 400 Tilton Clutch master 100 LT1 Plug wires & looms 130 Alum Drive shaft 80 Shorton driv shaft 140 Molded hoses about 120 Intake air sys 125 Rear T56 mount 75 B&M shifter 100 Tauras fan 35 Fan Variable spd controller 125 2 gal coolant 27 Oil/ filter 12 Wire and connectors 25 Spark plugs 30 Ac Delte pully 40 Power streering delete 50 Gates Fan belt 31 280Z tank 150 BMW and Datsun fuel pumps 50 You never get right the first time Fuel sender 40 Oil sender 15 Shift knob 30 O2 sensors 40 I guess you get the point. I know that I have left out a bunch of stuff. It never ends and it's never done for instance I think I am going to have to put some different O2 sensors on the car to get the fuel economy right. There's another $40. If you want it to turn out nice and run without any problems, then this is what it will take. Don't take short cuts because you will get discusted and abandon the project because it will never run right Good luck
  9. deja, Thanks for the link but 93 LT1 does not have the mass air flow sensor which GM started using in 94. Researching the Crankcase ventilation system. The manual says that internally the engine needs to maintain a vacum pressure and if the Vent system is not there or is not working properly, there could be engine damage. So I guess I will get the parts and see if that helps the fuel economy.
  10. Already did the injector cleaner thing right off the bat when I was installing the engine and getting it running. I had the TB off a while back when I was changing the leaky intake gasket and while it was off I cleaned it. It is my policy that what ever comes off this car is cleaned and repainted as necessary before it goes back on. When you say clean the MAF, do you mean the MAP. I have not heard of having to clean it. What kind of product do you use and where do I get it. Is it a common product at the local auto parts store?
  11. Heres an Idea. The crankcase vent valve hose running from the right valve cover to the trottle body. I don't have one. I have just a breather on the valve cover. Are you guys using the valve and hose to the TB? Could this be a problem. Checking my Helms manual for the engine where it talks about poor fuel economy, they don't mention O2 sensors to check. Just vacum leaks and spark plugs and bad wires but nothing about O2's. But reading about what they do, I can see how they might make a difference but GM says that they won't, by themselves, initiate a change or make things happen. Waiting for a call back from Alfredo. Probably Monday. The part number that he gave me is not listed on his web site either so I can't order that way.
  12. The problem I had with the plastic was that it was not uniform in its deminsion. It said that it was a 5" but when I tried to put it into the stock besel it would start to go in but then stop. The case is wider at the rear than at the front so I had grind it down, in other words make the case material thiner to get it into the Datsun besel. By that time, the case was almost paper thin but I made it work.
  13. Got it. Alfedo got back to me today with the correct part number for my engine. ES10966 for $ 17.44. If you guys can think of any thing else for me to check, please let me know meanwhile I'll get the O2 sensors.
  14. Went to that web site and the part number for the non heated was not listed and there was no way for me to search for the correct part so I sent them an email. If that's the problem I will call them. Larry
  15. Thanks, I will do the test and let you know what I get.
  16. Ok but can the O2 sensors cause this type of problem. Do you Know?
  17. By loose exhaust I mean open, unrestricted. I have a 2 1/2" to the Y pipe and then 3" out to a 3"Magnaflow. New O2 sensors and new plugs. Not sure what a leakdown is. My check engine light is hooked up and operating. It comes on with ignition and goes off at start up. The data port is installed. I really tried to do a first class installation with this project so I took no short cuts and did not skimp on anything. I was wondering if O2's could cause this problem. I bought from a vender off Ebay some NTK NGK O2 sensors. I thought they woud work fine but I don't know. They were single wire and they were priced right. $16 each so I went with them. What do you think.
  18. I have not checked for a stuck injector but if I had one how would I tell or check for it. The engine runs fine except the fuel economy is kind or low. 14.24 mpg Nd all the injectors, by themselves, sound normal. The noise seems to be coming from the fuel line but it sounds like amplified injector noise. I am going to try next, removing the braided steel line that connects the stainless fuel line to the fuel rail line and replacing it with a rubber line. Maybe by isolating the lines, I will narrow it down.
  19. Neither the tachs or the one box I have indicate where they were made. Maybe this is a good thing because imported products are required to be marked I believe. Could be wrong.
  20. Well you guys must be going down hill in 6th gear because I just checked mine for the first time and I got only 14.24 MPG. Ths was at least half on the freeway and the rest around town and the freeway was in traffic but I could drive 60 to 70 most of the time. Now this is a stock 275 hp LT1 with headers and a very loose exhaust system. The rear gears are 3.36 or so I am led to believe. That is what is suppose to be in a 71 240Z manual. I am, to say the least, very dissapointed. I was soooo looking forward to that 22 to 25 mph. Any idea what could be the difference?????. Between your two vehicles and mine.
  21. I just bought a Phantom Autometer gage model 5898 in used condition off ebay and I already had one of the same model number. What I noticed was that the gage I already have has a plastic case while the one I just bought, wh ch is older, has a metal case. I was a little stunned when I recieved my tach to find out it was in a chinsey plastic case. Autometer is supposed to be quality. Not so much any more. Just thought you all might want to know.
  22. Greg, I'll do that test and see what I get. The alternator, balancer and the AC delete are the constants because they all are grooved.. But the lateral location of the AC pulley can be spaced out a bit but I think that would make it worse I believe. I put 48 miles on a new belt today and I see no damage.
  23. Thanks deja, I'll keep that in mind for the next time. I just put 48 miles on it today and so far there is no visable damage. Why did you use the 280 CV's instead of the 300zx CV's
  24. Well as my siganture would indicate, it's a 240Z with a LT1. The engine runs strone but theis injector noise is annoying. What else do you need to know?
  25. Sitting in the car at idle I hear what sounds like injector noise and it is loud. Walking around the car with a stethoscope and listening ot every part of the engine I hear the noise loudly coming from the fuel presure line. No where else. The injectors themselves are quiet and sound normal but the noise I am hearing is the same noise that the injector are making but much louder. Is the noise traveling through the fuel or is the fuel pipes echoing the injector noise or what? I had a noisy fuel pump on the car but now I have a really quiet one. It's out of a 84 BMW CSI 633. $10 at the wrecking yard and man what a difference. I had a 82 280zxt pump and it was loud. I think loud enough to cover up the injector noise that I now hear. Anyone have any ideas? I have a new stainless fuel line from the tank to the braided -6 line at the fuel rail. Could there be a problem there?
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