inline6

Oh. Yep, that makes sense that the lube goes on the nuts that get torqued. Any problems putting some of the lube on the threads that go in the block? I wouldn't think so... Garrett

My cam calls for 1.680" installed valve spring height for intake and exhaust. I mocked up one intake valve and one exhaust valve assembly to check approximate installed height. The intake was 1.660" with the .039/.040 shim that was there with the stock spring set-up. The exhaust was 1.690" with it's same size shim. Since I am about to hand the head over to a shop to do a valve job, I'm guessing that these measurements are not meaningful yet - and obviously they can vary a bit for each valve, though the last engine builder likely set all of the intakes and exhausts at similar respective depths. When the next shop recuts the seats and refaces the valves, the installed height will change... How much can I expect the installed height to change (approximate given no odd issues with seats) with a valve job? Should I just wait until I get it back and then order appropriate size shims as necessary? Also, I have attached a picture showing the top of the guides where the seal goes on. The intake and exhaust guides are different. Looking at the invoice I was provided with when the engine builder last rebuilt the head, he indicated that he installed and sized 6 exhaust valve guides - "nissan comp". I am assuming the intake guides were not replaced - are stock. Can anyone tell by the picture? What valve seals do I need to acquire? The cam has .550" lift... From looking through forum posts, it seems a lot of people go with "A-series" seals. Additionally, some people use Ford Capri seals... I'm fairly certain my previous engine builder used neither and not stock L series either. I want to say he used BMW seals? "Goetze" I think. Has anyone used those with success? Year? Model? If the answer is go with the Capri or A series seals, will they fit both the stock intake guide and "comp" exhaust guides? Or is there some kind of compatibility issue with certain seals needing to fit certain valve guides -- I mean outside of being the correct diameter?

Reading the instructions... doesn't quite give me the info I need. Block threads are clean. I put a bit of the lube that came with them on the threads that go in the block. I installed each as far as they would go, finger tight. Instructions call for 60 ft-lbs instead of factory torque settings. That's it? Finger tight studs and 60 ft-lbs of torque once the head is in place? Garrett

I definitely appreciate the advice anyone is willing to provide. I was spoiled when I was a teen, as Dave Weber of Malvern racing was local. And Tom Howen, his long time friend, driver, machinist, is here as well - but no longer doing car work. So, I find myself without the readily available L-series expertise that I used to enjoy. Regarding the cam, it is not run of the mill, though perhaps as Tony said, I should have gone with something more common - a more typical off the shelf cam. It is from Sunbelt - same cam grind as Dan Baldwin I believe. Here are the specs: Intake Seat duration 320 degrees .050" duration 290 degrees Valve lift with zero lash .565" Hot valve lash .015" Net valve lift .550" Exhaust Seat duration 315 degrees .050" duration 274.8 degrees Valve lift with zero lash = .565" Hot lash = .015" Net valve lift =.550" I am not sure of the power band, but since I was told by Sunbelt not to exceed 7700 RPM, I'm guessing the power band goes somewhat north of 7k. Perhaps that is not the case. When I degree it and jet the Mikuni 44's, I'll know. Still looking for input on the euro dampner and the stock flywheel. I cam across a post that mentioned lightening the stock flywheel (done correctly) to 17 lbs is a good way to go. All other things equal, will a correctly lightened flywheel help with any crank harmonic issues? Garrett

So, I'll set it at 7,000 for this "season" and look to go forged pistons over the winter, if I like the cam. My season consists of a about 2 track weekends (usually VIR and Summit Point) a year at this point. So, I think I'll be ok. A couple of you mentioned dampners. I am running a euro single pully unit. Issues? The flywheel is stock, which is what, 23 lbs? The clutch is a 225mm Centerforce unit with probably 40k street miles, a pile of autocrosses, and a few track events. Again, is this a problem for 7k or for 7.7k for that matter? Garrett

I'm putting in a new cam and am wondering where to set the electronic stop (max rpm) on my Hi 6 ignition. The car is mainly used for track days. The cam set up is good to 7700 max. Anyone have some experience with max revs for the stock F54 bottom end? I realize that forged pistons are going to be necessary, but would like to wait a season. 7k? or can I get away with a bit more? Garrett

I don't want to have to drive it like a race car to keep it moving on the road, in traffic, at stop lights. I drive to and from the track plus put about 1000 street miles on it a year. I realize this is a question with what is likely to be very subjective answers... Hoping to get some responses from people that have something similar and their thoughts on driving on public roads.

About to pay a bunch for a cam from Kinetic Sunbelt (in GA). They came back to me with specs which are below. I've run a 490/290 in my 510 years ago (daily driver in college) which I liked... I've read some posts and tried to decipher what cam is really too radical. My car has an F-54 L-28 with flat tops, about 10 to 1 compression with E88 head (1 mm bigger intake valves). Switching from SU's with SM needles to a set of tripple 44phh Mikunis when I do the cam upgrade. So, is this cam going to be too radical? Can I still drive it to and from the track? It pretty much just sees autocross and track duty these days, but I don't trailer it. Intake Seat duration 320 degrees .050" duration 290 degrees Valve lift with zero lash .565" Hot valve lash .015" Net valve lift .550" Exhaust Seat duration 315 degrees .050" duration 274.8 degrees Valve lift with zero lash = .565" Hot lash = .015" Net valve lift =.550"