inline6

***********Edit: Moved the following post to a separate thread... I dropped off most of the engine parts with my engine builder today. The block is an N42 from a 77 Z (had round port head). Quick measurements on the bore thickness in a couple of accessible areas make me think I won't be able to do the 89mm overbore. This is going to be a NA engine... but we measured .175" in one spot on the front cylinder (freeze plugs are removed). Back cylinder, where accessible was in the .2 something territory. It will be sonic tested in the coming days. From some threads I found here, the guidance seems to be .125" thickness for cylinder walls. Anyone have thoughts on this? I hoped to go 89mm on the bore with this block. Now, I'm thinking 88.5 will be more likely. Garrett

Looks like I only have one of them. Pretty good shape. Painted with epoxy primer and then black back in 1994. Both pins are perfect and there was little if any metal corrosion. Garrett Edit - by the way, I think they are side specific. This one has an R on the backside.

Yes they say "240z", came from my 12/70 car. I believe all of the pins are there. Let me see if I can find them. Garrett

What condition is acceptable? I think I have some of the quarter panel ones, but the chome is maybe not there anymore. I painted them black and used them for a while before I bought and used new plastic ones.

Yeah, spensive. A little less than my first car cost me. Which is really insane... Took my N42 block to be cleaned and sonic tested last week. Should get it back this week. Still looking for some Glyptal if anyone has some sitting on a shelf. Otherwise, I guess I'll have to buy some new and then what is leftover will sit on my shelf... probably until I'm dead.

The crankshaft has arrived from Castillo's! Stroke came in a little less than I had hoped (3.165 instead of 3.188), but it was dictated by the factory stroke being a little under spec as well as tolerances when stress relieving the crank which happens during rod journal resizing. As was mentioned before, it probably isn't worth the bucks spent for the small amount of stroke increase I have ended up with. However, those of you buying Rebello 3.0 liter stroker motors are pretty much doing the same thing. Here are some large pics:

I took these off of my L28 with E88 head very recently... They are quite nice. They are the 4 screw (early) version that is desired. I had them rebuilt in 1994 with new Nissan OE: thottle shafts, thottle plates, throttle shaft bushings, jet nozzles, screws for domes, screws for float covers, and the hoses that go from the float chamber to the nozzles. I replaced the stock N27 needles with the "SM" needles which are the hot ticket for the L28 engine. I put some attention to polishing the domes some time ago. That is why they look pretty good. They could use a maintenance polish to make them really shine again. While replacing one of the shaft bushings during the rebuild, the aluminum around it broke. This was expertly tig welded (and run on the car since 1994 with no issues). Also, one of the air filter tabs was tig welded and redrilled at the same time. They do have some miles on them - probably 70k since the rebuild, but they work great. I have the heat shield also... If you think you are interested, I will post a few more pics. I was getting ready to sell them on eBay... I'm not sure on pricing because I haven't looked to see what they are worth yet. I know that Ztherapy ones are like $600, and these obviously aren't anything near that nice. My rough guess is $250, but let me look around and see...

Did you get some of these? I have a nice set of L-28 stockers from an N42 motor. Let me know.

I took these off of my L28 with E88 head very recently... They are quite nice. They are the 4 screw (early) version that is desired. I had them rebuilt in 1994 with new Nissan OE: thottle shafts, thottle plates, throttle shaft bushings, jet nozzles, screws for domes, screws for float covers, and the hoses that go from the float chamber to the nozzles. I replaced the stock N27 needles with the "SM" needles which are the hot ticket for the L28 engine. I put some attention to polishing the domes some time ago. That is why they look pretty good. They could use a maintenance polish to make them really shine again. While replacing one of the shaft bushings during the rebuild, the aluminum around it broke. This was expertly tig welded (and run on the car since 1994 with no issues). Also, one of the air filter tabs was tig welded and redrilled at the same time. They do have some miles on them - probably 70k since the rebuild, but they work great. I have the heat shield also... If you think you are interested, I will post a few more pics. I was getting ready to sell them on eBay... I'm not sure on pricing because I haven't looked to see what they are worth yet. I know that Ztherapy ones are like $600, and these obviously aren't anything near that nice. My rough guess is $250, but let me look around and see...

Hmmm. Hadn't thought to use the carbide cutter... Thanks for that. A great example of when two heads are better than one. As for the rods, I am using Eagle brand for a Toyota Celica. My engine builder says they are ok, but not as 100% ready to go as others. That is probably why they tend to be more affordable. I forget the weight, but something like 560g vs. 710g stock - I think? I will be taking the block to my engine builder after I finish removing the casting flash. I don't anticipate any issues with the block... I better not have any that is, because it would be wasted time and effort to remove the flash only to find out that I should find another block. He'll spec out the block, proceed with mocking up crank and rods to see what we need spec-wise for the pistons.

Crankshaft should be arriving any day now. Can't wait... In the mean time, I've learned from reading the forums that combustion chambers should be polished - not glass beaded! So, I did that. You can see the undercut on the side of the chamber here. I was copying a 510 head I had done by Malvern racing long ago. I also learned from the forums that the N42 block is the one to use for 89 mm bore. Wow. I was going to use my F54 block. Luckily, I still have my N42 block from an earlier motor. How about this casting flash??? I spend a couple of hours with an air powered hand held belt sander... belts are 3/8" wide by 13" long, one of my latest tool aquisitions. Going through belts rather faster than I had hoped. I am using Norton 60 grit. Looks like it is going to take about 5 to do most of the inside of the block. Anyone have some left over Glyptal on the shelf? I don't think it takes a full quart to do one block, but that is the only quantity I can find for sale.

Are those carbs modified (tapered bores)... or standard bore? The openings look bigger than original. Also, why did you make an impression of the pistons? That was just to get an idea of the volume of the pop up?

I'm no engine builder, but I think it is somewhat common that bores are out of round by .001" even when freshly machined. At least, that is what I recall a performance L series engine builder telling me once. I recall him saying something about his cylinders being rounder than many because of his equipment (and something about honing technique) and that because they were rounder, engines he bored would break in quicker than some. So, I'm sure one of the more qualified will weigh in (and their comments should be worth more than mine), but I'm thinking all you may have to deal with a slightly longer break in period. Other than that, with fresh hone and new rings, I think you will be fine.

Yeah, he doesn't have what I need. I'm in no hurry. I've got 3 carbs that will make a good triple setup. Just need a couple of parts to finish the rebuilds. Will consider whatever people have. I could use a usable main body... Have two side feed float covers with one top feed... Anybody have some with age, heavy use, etc. just kicking around, let me know. G

I need a couple of Mikuni parts... I believe these are the same for 40 and 44. 1 float height/support spring - number 16 in the Mikuni manual. 1 throttle shaft spring - not labled separately in the manual (goes on the throttle shaft between the two bores. Could also use left side (when face bore entrance) throttle bracket, spring, etc. Could be interested in some 39 or 40 chokes as well (these are for the 44's)

I don't really think I need a full quart (which is how it is sold) to do one block. Just wondering if anyone has some usable Glyptal on their shelf that they think might outlast them before they ever use it again. Let me know.

I have a bunch of LD28 parts I'm looking to get rid of... and I'm in Barboursvile, VA. Let me know if you need anything (the crank is gone).

Nice. That makes for a really nice rod to stroke ratio. Pin height on those pistons is going to be what... about 25mm? G

$928 including shipping. The website has seriously cool parts for z cars... but most are way overpriced. http://www.rhdjapan.com

So the box is £160 plus shipping - which is currently $261US plus shipping. He sold me a cosmetic blem for a few dollars less... Here is the website: http://www.mjpshop.co.uk/product_info.php?id=113&pid=437 I paid by PayPal. Here is the contact info: Mike Feeney at MJP (Eastern Auto) Brentwood, Essex Here is a thread on zclub.net with lots of info about the box: http://zclub.net/forum/240z-260z/16484-air-box-fitting-tips.html

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that if I don't lick them, I'll only knock one year off my life. But, they are so pretty, I am thinking about licking them.

Kameari parts arrived today from Japan. Only took 4 days for delivery! No customs or duties...

Interesting combo. How long are the FJ20 rods? I'll be using some Eagle aftermarket rods from a Toyota Celica. They are 5.428" long and weigh about 565 grams. Here is a link to some of my engine build info. These numbers have changed just a touch, but I'll update the info at the link soon: EngineBuild The air box I have is a direct copy of the TWM box by the way. I confirmed that - contacted the guy that originally made them. Now they are sold by someone else. Don't know if you plan on using a TWM box with the TWM manifold... Anyway, this one is much better quality than the TWM box (I got one of those with the FI setup I bought on eBay). This one is made of fiberglass. The walls are a bit thicker also. I think it was around $250 with no customs or duties. Let me know if you would like the contact info.

I believe I have one of those also - I saw it a couple of days ago. I think you got the injection pump from me? Garrett

How about this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1968-70-DATSUN-ROADSTER-2000-U-20-WATER-PUMP-PULLEY-/330547935555?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4cf6313943#ht_500wt_1182