inline6

I've got a 3.7 that came from a 73 Fairlady brought to the states by someone in the military. I ran it for several years in my Z - probably from about 1994-97. Can't recall the details now, but I think the front seal started leaking... and when I replaced it, I didn't have a torque wrench that would go to the spec. Anyway, I think I torqued it on too light or too heavy because the front pinion bearing went out in short order. I didn't run it that way long because I needed a different ratio anyway. So, long story, but the diff is completely assembled and I'm sure it is a 3.7 - and 85% positive it is non "k" because it was came in the 73 Fairlady. It is in VA. Let me know if you are interested. I can't see using it again, as I now use a 4.11 lsd R200, and would like it to go to a good home. I'll refund the price of the diff if it is not useable. $100 plus shipping and it is yours. Garrett

So, the machinist is working hard on my project now. He torqued the head on - I'm using ARP studs, and then measured bore deflection. The worst place only measures a total of 4 tenths out... that is 4 ten thousandths of an inch. He measured in various places and most of the deformities were 2 tenths or less. And the worst was additive - 2 tenths one direction and 2 tenths in the other (or something like that). Guess what folks? That is pretty friggin' good. Combustion pressures are what? Hmmm. Over a 1000 psi, maybe? I'm guessing that the cylinder walls might deflect a tad with that kind of pressure? Anyway, I feel pretty ok about not using a torque plate for the final hone.

Some manifolds are cheap. If you have to take it off to repair, and the repair is going to cost more than getting another one (factor in your time), maybe another one is the way to go? What manifold is it? 240? 280? zx turbo? I've got a low mileage 280zx NA in excellent condition that has all the factory studs and nuts even. $20 plus shipping and its yours.

This is the high capacity pump that I am reusing. Looks like a few nice chunks of stuff have been through here. One of them was stuck in the soft aluminum housing... was able to pick it out Raised edges were removed. Rotor polished up in the process. Also modded the inlets and outlets for better flow. More exciting stuff coming before long.

Some pics of crankcase vent mod - to install fitting with o-ring. I will run a hose from here and the valve cover vent into a catch tank.

Will be assembling my very expensive track motor soon. Stock pan is going on unless I can find some nice alternative. Anyone have a Nissan comp pan and pickup that is not being used? Garrett

The last of the parts I had to round up are en route... Attaching a pic of the fittings installed in new holes above the #5 and #6 exhaust ports. They are placed at the top of the cooling passages - as high as my machinist could get them without cutting threads into the top of the passage surface. Lots more pics coming soon... Stay tuned.

The U joints I bought are direct replacements for the stock u-joints in the steering linkage. Just remove old and replace with new. No modifications. A great option for those that want to go that route instead of welding/modifications of the the other option mentioned in the thread

And this is another option: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/99247-replace-your-steering-u-joints/page__p__930653__fromsearch__1#entry930653 There are two joints. One in the lower shaft, and one in the upper.

Have you measured the ID's? If they used glass beads, I'd think there is a chance that no appreciable (measureable) amount of material was removed. I'd grab a bit of aluminum polish and a rag and polish the inside of one, then measure it. If it is within spec, I wouldn't think it would be a problem.

Are any of yours OEM Nissan? I came across a thread in a forum where someone said the OEM ones don't have pins.

I ordered rear main cap seals (the strips) from Nissan and they didn't come with any pins or "nails". Anyone ever seen that before? Do I use them as is? The How to Rebuild or the How to Modify book, one or the other, seems to indicate that they are not always utilized - that you can get some that don't have them. Also, on the Kameari timing chain idler, do you still run one (the straight one)of the chain guides - just not the curved one?

Crank, flywheel, pressure plate, and disc, etc. are being balanced. The crank was 2-3 grams out of balance... The brand new Fidanza 10 lb. aluminum flywheel was 8 grams out... Looks like I'll be final honing without the use of a torque plate. My engine builder is going to try to torque the head on and take some measurements to see the cyl wall deflection. We'll see... Should have some more pics and more frequent updates going forward as we are getting ever closer to assembly, or rather, mock-up!

When balancing is done, the crank is typically balanced by itself. Then the flywheel may be bolted on and the balance is checked and adjusted as necessary, next, the pressure plate... The disc is balanced by itself instead of while on the crank assembly because its relative position changes all the time relative to the other parts which are "fixed" in their position. Rods are not assembled onto the crank when it is balanced. The rods are typically weighed and each one is brought to within a certain range of the others. As long as there isn't any substantial difference in the weight of the new rod bolts and nuts from one rod to the next across the rods (1 to 2, 2 to 3, etc.) you won't harm any of the balance just by putting in slightly lighter hardware. Only if say, you ran the stock hardware in 1 of the rods and the new stuff in each of the others would you mess anything up. Make sense?

The block has already been bored... The equipment to hone is readily available. My engine builder says a week max. $400 deposit (you or Pete) is fine... What is this one made of? Over 70 lbs. incurs extra UPS charges, and at some point, cost inevitably will get too high. Thanks Tim, and Pete.

Thanks... Motor is in VA, as I just moved here recently. Do mention it (loaning it out). It would be shipped to VA and returned promptly. A deposit is fine... Garrett

Hey Pete, any update?

Ok, an update: Block (N42) is back from the machine shop. They left about 4 thou for final honing (final sizing). Also, the main caps were ground a touch and the crank main bore was align honed - probably overkill. I am looking for a torque plate... If I can't find a suitable one to use then I will just have the final hone done without it. Head bolt/stud hole location is such that the distortion on these blocks (when compared to many) isn't a big issue. Anyway, happy to pony up money to rent one, if that is what it takes. The fun stuff, (actual assembly) is not too far off!

Hey Pete, let me know what your machinist says... or point me in the direction of McKinney (how to contact), and I'll check that out. Probably looking at doing final hone in the next couple of weeks or so. Thanks much!

Time to hone the cylinders... Anyone have a nice torque plate they are willing to part with for a couple of weeks? Looking for a nice quality one for 88 mm bore on the L motor. Rental is fine. Please let me know - shop is in VA. Thanks.

Oops. My bad. I stand corrected.

Those are 280zx ones. These are z31: z31 axles

I worked for a long time Nissan engine builder for one summer when I was in college. He uses an air hammer just like Josh said. No heat, no lube. I even used it once to drive some guides out and put new ones in. Is very easy. I don't think you can drive them out a bit and back in and use them though. All kinds of problems with that.

Got it. Well, my motor is no longer... I'm building the 3.0 stroker with Toyota rods and offset ground crank, etc. with the e88 head... you commented on the build thread about welding up the cyl head chambers... Anyway, with the right needles and those big bore SU's, and further timing tweaks as necessary, it will be interesting to see how much more you can get out of your motor. I'm thinking lots.

What needles are you running? Are the SU's modified or stock? I was running SM needles with my stock SU's, manifold, and air cleaner... flat top f54 block and e88 head and stock cam but with bigger valves and some port work, header, etc. As you can see, the ratio looks decent across the range here. Maybe the motor is too apples to oranges, but wondering if the SM needles would be a good choice for that cam... The stock N27s were no good for my combo. Dog rich at idle to be decent at high revs.