ThomaZ

Thank you for the information, Steve! Very informative . I contacted a local bearing warehouse today and they should do a search and it was not impossible that they could find it, probably Koyo England could have it…..

Unfortunately it seams that Nissan don’t carry the 38335-N3100 bearing any more. I first tried with Nissan Europe (where I live) but they responded that it was discontinued. I then asked a friend in Seattle to check with Nissan USA but he got the some answer. Does anyone know if there are some dealers that still carry it? For what’s it worth I have included the list I made over the seals and bearings in a R200. Be aware that I did the list to aid my own purchasing and I have not confirmed it yet. In other word I have not yet installed the bearings and seals that I bought because I missing the 38335-N3100 bearing. List of Bearings and Seals in a R200 differential. Counting from the front and backwards. This list is comprised with the help of Nissan IPC, PartsAmerica.com, MSA-catalog, and HybridZ.com. Front Seal: Nissan 38189-N3100 Beck/Arnley 0523173 $ 6.99 MSA 20-2505 $11.10 Front Ball Bearing: Nissan 38335-N3100 Front roller bearing: Nissan 38120-13201 Chicago Rawhide BR32305 $26.99 Rear roller bearing: Nissan 38120-61000 BCA 32307 $56.99 Chicago Rawhide BR32307 $35.99 Side roller bearings: (2 ea req.) Nissan 38440-N3100 BCA 30209C $57.99 Side seals: (2 ea req.) Nissan 38342-N3100 BCA 223542 $6.55 Beck/Arnley 0521401 $5.59 Motor City S223542 $4.24 MSA 20.2526 $8.25 Rear gasket: Nissan 38320-N3111 (replaces old P/N N38353-N3100) MSA 20-2543 $3.51

I have a Holly Fuel Pressure Regulator (Summit P/N HLY-12-803), it’s unused but the instruction papers are gone. There is one port underneath marked “IN†and two on each side marked “OUTâ€. I am planning connecting one “OUT†port to the engine and the other to the fuel return line that leads back to the fuel tank. The pump is a Carter 7 psi street/strip (Summit P/N CRT-4594) and the engine a CSB 350 with a Holly 780 carburettor. However I can’t figure out which port on the regulator that is regulated and should be connected to the engine. I have searched Holley’s homepage and this forum but with out any luck. When searching my file over engine installation pictures I found one where the owner hade plugged one of the “OUT†ports on the regulator. On the fuel hose between the other “OUT†port on the regulator and the carburettor he had a fuel filter with a fitting for the fuel return line on it. Have I misunderstood this? Should one “OUT†port always be plugged?

I had some thoughts along the same line. Thanks for your input! ThomaZ

Did you ever solve this? I am having the exact same problem with understanding the hook up of the Carter electrical fuel pump in my 240Z-72. The only difference I can see is that the wire you refer to as black-blue is green-white on my 240Z. Regards ThomaZ

No, the top two pictures are not Photochopped. I know Henrik and visited him about a month ago and looked at the car. It is truly impressive! I have also given Henrik a heads up that his car I featured in this thread so he can have a chance to comment on how he solved the window issue and other questions that might turn up. Best regards ThomaZ

According to the schematic in the Haynes Manual there are only four wires shown going to the radio. One is the antenna lead, the second goes to earth. For the third and forth no colour code is given. However the third attaches to a Blue wire and the forth to a Red-blue. Hope it helps some. Regards ThomaZ

What I recall you have to elongate the holes in the firewall and cut the pushrod and rethread the clevis like shown in the JTR manual. I have no experience with using the stock MC on a T5 but JTR claims it is not sufficient. It has a 5/8†bore and JTR recommends ¾†bore for the T5 however several members of this board recommends going up to the 7/8â€.

You could also try pressing a heat sink for example a copper bar against the joint from the other side; it helps burn through a little. Personally I gave up trying to wells butt joints; even if I hade the slightest gap I burnet through. Instead I bought a pliers at an auto repair shop that could joggle the edge of the repair piece. I find it much easier to weld lap joints and if you joggle the edge I think it looks god enough.

The four bolts that hold the T5 against the bell housing are standard M12 x 1,75. They need to be about 40 mm (1 9/16â€) long.

I use a Wilwood P/N WIL-260-6765 Master Cylinder, High Volume, 7/8 in.Bore, 1/8 -27 Outlet, Die-Cast Aluminum cost $49.99 at Summit Racing.

Yes, I did measure center to center. Even had printout from your webpage next to me when doing it. I can re-measure, but my working schedule is kind of hectic right now so it can take a couple of days. A taught. When compressing I just rested one end against the floor and pushed the other one down until it stopped. Is there any more to it?

I am in the process of doing the R200 swap into my 240Z -72 right now. So I went down in the garage an measured the two rear driveshaft that a removed from a 280Z-78 in a junkyard: I forgot to label them with which side I removed them from so I just call them Shat A and B. Here goes: Shaft A: Fully compressed 316 mm (12.44â€) Shaft A: Fully extended 350 mm (13.78â€) Shaft B: Fully compressed 314 mm (12.36â€) Shaft B: Fully extended 342 mm (13.46â€) Seams inconsistent that they should be longer then the 240Z compressed but shorter extended, but I measured them twice to be sure. On the other hand they came from a junkyard car and lots of parts could have been shifted on that car during its 25+ years.

The four bolts that hold the T5 against the bell housing are standard M12. They need to be about 40 mm (1 9/16â€) long.

80LT1 has some really good advice there. I replaced my U-joints in both rear driveshafts last week but I needed to take them to a workshop with a hydraulic press to get them out. Good Luck!

You can keep the dust shields. You just have to trim a little with a hacksaw, you can see how much in my photo album. Go to pic 13. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/bc/bearcatf8f2002/lst?.dir=/Datsun+240Z+-72&.src=ph&.view=

Is there any way to check the compression ratio and if I have a roller or flat tapped cam on my Chevy SB without removing heads and manifold? The Chevy 350 I purchased to my 240Z came from a -70 Nova. I was built by a speed shop two years ago and pulled the Nova through the 1/8 mile strip in 7,9 sek which should equates to 348 hp. The seller admitted he was uncertain if he remembered the specifications correctly, but the engine ran nicely and the price was right. After educating myself more about V8:s and comparing the engine with the sellers spec. I found out this: CSB 350 bored .030 to 355cui.(3970014) Two bolt main with stock crank and rods. Engine number matches TRW forged 11:1 pistons Isn’t that very high for a street engine with iron heads on pump gas? Powerpack heads (3795896) Head numbers matches Comp cam roller cam 221/221degres duration at .050 and .447 in lift I have searched through Comp Cams catalogue and can’t not find any cam with those figures. The engine has a standard sheet metal timing-chain cover. Shouldn’t that be a thick cast cover if it was a roller cam? Edelbrock performer manifold Wrong, The manifold is a World Product Merlin Sportsman II Holley 780 carb (fourport vacuum) Correct GM HEI distributor Correct So I am not sure what type of cam and what compression ratio I really have. The engine is ready to fit in my Z so I do not want to take it apart. Any tricks to find that out without removing the heads and manifold? Thanks in advance! ThomaZ http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/bc/bearcatf8f2002/lst?.dir=/Datsun+240Z+-72&.src=ph&.view=

According to Nissan Parts Catalog (on CD-Rom from http://www.240z.org) there are two numbers on it; 55540-E4100 and 55540-N3701. I bought mine from Motor Sport Auto their number is 23-4240 costs $22.21 a piece. Best regards ThomaZ

Thanks for the advice, SPIIRIT. I have both a heat gun and a Wen-Gun type soldering iron. The method you describe is the same as we use when cutting wing foam cores for Radio Controlled aircraft models. (An other hobby). I will try on some scrap weather strip first. I also need to look at the door adjustment. My -72 240Z did not have any door weather strip in when I bough it. The previous owner removed and scraped them, then ordered new ones that newer showed up. I must learn to use the Search function better. A specially before ordering something. Good point, Owen, I will go easy on the door slamming. The MSA weather strip is not a loop. You can see a photo of it in picture #35 in my photo album: http://photos.yahoo.com/bearcatf8f2002 The other weather strip on the photo are for the rear hatch, inner and outer seal. I let you know if and how I solve this. ThomaZ

I installed the MSA door weather strip (part# 311064A & 311075A) yesterday and I can’t close the door!! If I slam it real hard (I mean REAL hard!) I can make it lock on the first detent. But the side widow frame bulges outwards. The rubber seams to be way to stiff. Anyone else hade the same problem? How did you solve it? ThomaZ

Thanks for your input! I leave out the spacers then. They did not fit to well anyhow.

New member, first post. I am in the process of incorporating the following modifications on my 240Z-72. New springs from MJP Auto that will lower the car 1â€. The so called “bump-steer†spacers from MSA P/N 23-4185, 0,74†tick. And raising the lower control arm points on the front cross member acc to JTR manual page 16-8. I have the parts and I have started with knocking out the reinforcement washers in the cross member but I have not drilled the holes yet. I have search this site a lot and when finding threads like this: http://www.hybridz.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=000344#000000 I have started to think that combining all three might not be a good idée…. any inputs?