jhm
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Posts posted by jhm
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Nice! What kind of mounting points/configuration/hardware do you plan to use?
I have a similar concept in mind, but am not as far along as you are.
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Yep, the slotted mags have been a very popular (and good-looking) choice on the Zs for a long time. As you mentioned, 13” and 14” were historically the most common, but 15” are certainly available. You will need to do some digging, and it may take some time to locate; as I honestly can’t recall seeing any new in a long time. Keep an eye on eBay, the Datsun forums (e.g. Ratsun.net), and all the Datsun pages on FB. Also…FYI, old Triumphs use the same 4x4.5” lug pattern as the Z uses. Good luck in your search!
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I’m assuming that you’re aware of these as a 5-lug option. As I recall, T3 and Silvermine are two of the (few) vendors that produce these. https://www.silverminemotors.com/products/5-lug-conversion-front-hub-for-240z-260z-280z-cnc-aluminum
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Yeah, I can see having two different lug patterns would be a real pain. There are a couple of easy swaps to convert the fronts to 5-lug…or just use some 4- to 5-lug adapter/spacers.
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What transmission are you tuning? And again, what’s the intended application for the car? Anything with hard power application (auto-x, drag) would benefit from the biggest tire you can fit. (Road course usage could get away with smaller rears, and it’s nice having a square tire setup from a rotation perspective.)
If mainly street driving, the 245 may be perfectly fine. There are lots of extreme performance tires at 200-30tw that give very nice, predictable performance.
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Ah yes…that’s it. I think I just wasn’t mentally picturing it correctly after reading the original post.
Should be a nice setup!
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Jon, what about reworking that lower bracket in your photo (the red bracket) to tuck up inside the pocket next to the hatch mounting surface? Finish the top of the red bracket with a nice big flat surface (maybe 2" x 8"?) that buttes up against the inside of the stock sheetmetal. You can then shape the wing's outer mounting strut panels to use that flat reinforced area as mounting points. I'm probably not explaining myself very well -- I'll try to sketch something and PM it to you.
This concept would likely provide a stronger overall design, and *maybe* less in the way of taking the hatch on & off.
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Thx, @AydinZ71! Yes, I’ve been watching the sked for this year and was happy to see VIR on the calendar. Planning to be there if my sked allows it. Thx for the tag, and please let me know if you’re going to be there! 😊
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Not at all, Aydin! Like you, most guys like have committed to full race car don’t mind cutting/welding their strut towers…but there’s a whole bunch of folks that don’t want to go that route, so the bolt-in units are a nice option. (And I’ve actually seen quite a few race Zs with bolt-in plates, as well).
What I really like about these units (and the old EMI pieces) is the camber AND caster adjustability. But that may not be important to others based on the rest of their setup.
Cheers, buddy!
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I've always liked the design and quality of construction of the KMAC hardware....I'm just too damn cheap to spring the $ for it. These latest units look nice and offer a lot of adjustability; just keep in mind that it *appears* that they will impose a bit of a LIMFAC on suspension travel and/or ride height, as compared to other, "shorter" camber plates on the market. (Just a guess on my part, based on the appearance of the design....one would want to check actual H/W dimensions to know for sure.)
But for bolt-in pieces that give caster and camber adjustment, they look hard to beat! It's a shame the old EMI plates are NLA.
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I believe there are a few discussions on this topic, but this should get you started:
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22 hours ago, AydinZ71 said:
Unfortunately, I still have to use the 280zx front calipers
Darn EP rules,
Where did you happen to find those front ZX calipers, if you don't mind my asking? Maybe I just happened to be looking during a supply shortage?? I ended up with 4 piston Wilwoods that have been working well for my setup.
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Good thing you've decided against the S130 calipers, Aydin. I had looked into that option a couple years ago (along the lines of what Terry Oxendale did with his car), and I swear those calipers were NLA anywhere! New, used, reman, etc....I looked for a couple months and found nothing available. You might have had better luck this year, on the west coast, but it appears to be a moot point for you now. I think you'll be much happier overall with the Wilwoods.
I like your custom front air dam! Looks very IMSA-like. Put a thick rubber skirt along the bottom edge to give a good seal with track surface and still be flexible/survivable. Making the unit yourself means you won't have to spend the $ to replace it when you inevitably destroy it in the future. (Speaking from personal experience, of course). 😜
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On 2/24/2023 at 2:21 AM, manimal said:
The real bummer is Fritz was selling a set which plugged into the Subaru R180. I asked Zcar if they planned on doing that and they said "no". Hopefully TTT decides to offer that configuration.
Yes, I liked that option, too....eliminated the need for separate side axles if you were swapping in a Subie LSD R180 IIRC (which I had done). Glad to see some other vendors offering different options.
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...And, at least for now, they appear to be unavailable.
I remember when DatsunRestoMods was producing that style axle, but they advertised a lower power limit (200-250 hp, IIRC). I loved the design concept, but they stopped producing them before I was ready to spend the $. It would be nice if T3 continued to produce these....especially at $595/pair.
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I sold the gauges from a couple 260s 3 or 4 years ago; and IIRC, they sold for various amounts between $20 - 60. They were all in good functional and physical condition, like yours appear to be. It’s important that the connectors and pigtails be in good condition, to get a decent selling price. All factors being equal, I would guess that your clock will be the most sought after. I had the best luck selling mine on ClassicZCars, eBay, and the Datsun classified pages on FB.
Hope this helps.
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If I understand your question correctly, the stock brake line fittings are 10mm x 1.0. When I mated Wilwood Calipers to my system, I used a brass adapter fitting to mate the OEM fittings/lines to the Wilwood brake line inlet. All the necessary specs on your Wilwood calipers can be found here: https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperProd?itemno=120-6816.
Looks like you'll need an adapter with male 1/8-27 NPT - female 10mm x 1.0.
Hope this helps.
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Yeah, I noticed that as well. But it does offer the ability to export the data in a couple different format to allow analysis using other software tools.
https://www.racebox.pro/info/session-export
Personally, I’ve been using Harry’s and TrackAddict; but am looking to incorporate more sophisticated data logging/analysis capabilities this year. Clark gave me a great deal on a DL1, and I’ve only just begun to scratch the surface with it. Always on the lookout for new and interesting capabilities, and this one caught my eye.
r/John -
On the topic of data logging tools, has anyone had any first- or second-hand experience with the Racebox Pro? (I didn't know this, but it's produced in Bulgaria.)
Seems to have a lot of organic features not inherent in many other data devices. The biggest weak point I've come across is the app apparently, but the company seems to be improving it and releasing new updates regularly. Overall, looks like a lot of capability for the money ($279 on Amazon).
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Yes, many of the cheaper ones work fine…as long as they fit tightly on the splines. I’ve used a couple of them (like the “Boss”) without any issues.
If you’re considering a removable or tilt hub adapter, I would not go cheap. The cheap ones don’t lock securely, they don’t last, and can rattle loosely. I’ve been using an NRG removable hub the last two years and really like it.
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Hmmmm....I don't think they'd be different. I've used several of the same steering wheels on different years without any issues. It's possible that our measurements differ by 1 mm because I was measuring the ID of the steering wheel mounting hole vs you measuring the OD of the steering shaft....and they're both splined, which can result in small differences in measures.
There are many hub adapters available to fit the Z; just make sure you get one that has the correct bolt pattern to match whatever aftermarket steering wheel you choose. Something like this one offers two different bolt patterns for wider compatibility: https://www.ebay.com/itm/262525631164?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=262525631164&targetid=1645685073808&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9008565&poi=&campaignid=16730423415&mkgroupid=135815925780&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073808&abcId=9300841&merchantid=101732007&gclid=Cj0KCQiAw8OeBhCeARIsAGxWtUxpzV5oqsS3RU9JHDRjsUVCegH8PwffL3jdbZA6SpbYsds4fwLuodwaAtV7EALw_wcB
If you've been wanting a removable (or tip) steering wheel, now's a good time to do it! NRG makes some nice, quality hub adapters for that kind of thing.
New widebody kit design
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
So the air dam and splitter will have a shared/combined metal support framework, and that framework will tie into the stock bumper mounting points?
Looks pretty solid, but the front crossmember can provide additional hard mounting points should you need it.
Nice work!