jhm

Yep, that's a good mod. You can also get them from Bad Dog, or fab your own from appropriately-sized angle steel. https://www.baddogparts.com/store/product/1970-1978-240-260-280z-sway-bar-plates/ Additionally, I like to run the sway bar mounting bolts all the way through the frame rails. If you go this route, you also need to insert round tubing through the frame rails (to prevent the bolts from crushing the frame rail) and backing plates on the topside of the frame rail (to spread the load, similar to what the reinforcement plates are doing on the bottomside). This is a more involved modification, and not really needed for most street applications.

I think the OP said that the motor mount was obstructing the steering linkage.

Yes, he is; but he's not on this forum very much anymore. He's very active on FB; that might be your best bet if you're serious about purchasing one of his kits. (I have nothing to do with his business, but I do follow his builds from time to time.) https://www.facebook.com/groups/480008718866422/user/1349311394/ https://www.facebook.com/InvincibleExtremes

Yep, join the club. I'm surprised you haven't pulled the dash completely out yet....aren't you putting in a whole new dash eventually? Even if you weren't replacing the dash, the wiring under there is likely a mess, and you would want to get all that fixed up/cleaned up/etc. If you don't have the FSM and wiring schematics yet, you can download free FSMs for all years here: https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/fsm.html You're making great progress....keep it up, and please keep the updates coming!

Lots of folks have had to adapt their steering setup for various reasons; and I haven't seen any that complained of negative issues afterwards. Most of the adaptations that I've seen have been custom fabrication; but if you've found a good kit, go for it. Main thing would be to ensure the functional hardware is good quality and the installation is solid....competent welds, stiff bracing, etc.

Free -- you cover the cost of shipping and PayPal fee. Complete set of front and rear calipers for a 280ZX (S130). What you see is what you get...some mounting hardware, some (worn) pads, no rotors or soft lines. Year unknown, working condition unknown. Snagged these a couple years ago on FB Marketplace "just in case I might need them". Turns out I don't. Unless you have a preferred shipper that you can send me an account number/prepaid shipping label/etc; I will ship these flat rate USPS. I can fit everything into a single Large flat-rate box, but it's a heavy sucker. Safer approach might be two Medium flat-rate boxes. Thanks for looking.

That worked...the images posted that time no problem.

@Mr.Roboto, FYI -- tried several times, and am unable to open the image(s); and it doesn't seem to be a working link either. If others are having the same issue, you'll probably need to reload. If you want to message me the image(s), I can try loading from my end. Your call...

As an FYI....it is my understanding that we would not be able to keep HybridZ up & running without those paying advertisers. The donations taken in every year only cover a small portion of the annual operating costs.

Wow...she's looking great, Ben! Nice rebuild after that off at GTA a while back.

Ditto. I think the major tech hurdle is the smart phone's gyro, directional and positional accuracy, which likely just isn't there yet to enable the measurement of tenths of degrees. Maybe @Sam Henao would like to chime in with test/user/anecdotal/etc data? This would be such an awesome capability if it worked as advertised.

Wow! Welcome, and kudos to you for taking on this level of project...it will be extremely rewarding to see it coming back to life. You might want to check out ClassicZCars.com, as well -- they have a very big restoration community there. As an example, check out this thread to see some really nice custom structural metal work: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61483-240z-fabbing-new-front-rails/. There are a couple of good vendors for replacement body panels, or you can fabricate your own. https://www.baddogparts.com/store/ https://kfvintagejdm.com/ https://www.facebook.com/DatsunRescue (Adam Sylvester is a genius at locating those impossible-to-find used parts for very reasonable prices). If you're not hung up on this project being a "restoration" (vs resto-mod), that'll free up all kinds of options for you. Example: rather than replacing that half-dash with an expensive, hard-to-find original dash; build your own custom aluminum dash. Looking forward to seeing this beauty come back to life. Cheers!

Nice pieces, and great progress!

What kinds of events are you interested in? The "Roval" at Charlotte Speedway, VIR, and NCCAR are probably the three closest venues to you with road course events, sponsored by different clubs and organizations. If you like, I can PM you links and contact info.

Welcome to the forum -- glad to have you join us! (What took you so long to join?? 😜) Nice job on the 240, and documenting the build. It looked a lot like my 260 did, when I dragged it out of a field 8 years ago not too far from you (Black Mtn). Looking forward to seeing the progress on the RB-swap. As you probably already know, there are some great track events nearby in VA and NC.

Hey guys....not pointing any fingers, but I would like to remind everyone to keep the discussion civil per our Forum Rules (#12 & 13, specifically). We're all on the same team here. Thanks very much.

@Pfunk63, did you get what you need and is your account working correctly for you now?

Done! (I think.) Give it a try and let me know if it works for you now.

Welcome back! Looking at your account info, I see the following message: "Account locked from logging in using this IP address until 01/24/25 10:28 AM following 3 unsuccessful login attempts." So we have a couple options. 1) You can try logging in after the requisite wait time. (You may have to use the "Forgot Password" process, if you don't remember your old password.) 2) I can "merge" your old account with your new account; which should give you full access/control of both accounts. I'm not sure, but I think it may default to your new username; but you may also have the option of renaming it to whatever you want. 3) Now that your new account is approved, you can access and view all your old posts & photos....correct? Does that suffice? Let me know how you'd like to proceed. Cheers!

First off, welcome to the forum. While the purpose of this site is to discuss technical topics that pertain to the modification of the Datsun/Nissan Z cars (240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 300ZX, 350Z), we welcome car enthusiasts of all brands and manufacture. While you are perusing the forum, please take a few moments to familiarize yourself with forum Rules and Guidelines, found here: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111201-hybridz-forum-rules-read-now-before-posting/ Second, you are posting to a discussion thread that hasn't been active for over 20 years. Rather than "necroposting" on a 20-year old discussion thread, it may be more useful/productive to begin a new discussion thread for your specific/current issue. Finally, you may have more luck with your specific/current issue on a forum for Mazda cars or Mazda CX-5s. There seem to be a plethora of those -- a quick Google search yielded the following results: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/mazda-cx-5-54/ https://mazdas247.com/forum/categories/mazda-cx-5-forum.549/ https://www.cx5forum.com/ https://www.cx50forums.com/threads/cx-5-forum-all-new-forum.1407/ Not trying to discourage you from HybridZ; but any of these Mazda forums would probably yield more fruitful results in resolving your CX-5 technical issues and problems vs a forum dedicated to the Datsun Z sports car.

Just curious....what voltage levels do you have on the system when the engine is running? (And you may need to take readings at multiple points in the system to help narrow down where the problem(s) is/are.)

Chassis stiffening always a good thing. Here's a link to some good ideas, if you're looking for additional inspiration. https://imgur.com/a/chassis-stiffening-inspiration-R27sh

This might be helpful. Also, there are a couple vendors left that produce the rear inner axles necessary for a Subie R180 swap...but they have been drying up the last few years. Regarding backlash...that seems to be a forever issue with the R180. I've had significant play in every R180 I've owned, both open and LSD versions.

Did you use a different lower transmission mount when you swapped the automatic to T5; and if so, did it change the overall angle at which the engine/transmission sits? This could possibly make any components "forward" of the engine mounts sit higher in the engine compartment (relative to their original position). Can't think of any other reason why you'd have clearance issues now, vs no issues before the swap.

@Sandy455, glad to see you found what you needed. As a "Member", I'm not sure if you have the ability to Delete a post. Do you see a symbol (3 dots) in the upper right corner of your posts? If so, the drop-down menu should give you the options to "Edit", "Hide", "Delete", etc. If that doesn't work for you, I can "Hide" or "Delete" your post for you; but honestly, you may just want to leave it. Folks often refer back to old posts for reference or historical context. (e.g. Someone else in similar situation as you sees that @jeffer949 and @calZ have an N42 that they might be willing to part with.) LMK how you'd like to proceed.