Pyro

Don't think only 8 degrees more duration is going to spoil the power. 248 degrees is so small that the overlap at 0.050" lift is still a negative number (no overlap, around -18). At advertise duration (248, and 109 lsa), the overlap is 30. My msa turbo stage 1 cam (260/250, 114 lsa) has 27 degrees overlap at advertised duration. So, not a big deal to have 30. Sure, turbos don't like overlap, but a small cam (like a stock na cam) doesn't have much overlap. And I have run the na cams before with a turbo is they run well and give another 500+ rpms of useable power. The turbo cam lays down around 5000 rpms.

How does it sound in the car?? FYI, I built a system like that for an old school 350 conversion and it resonated very very badly in the car. At low rpms, you couldn't hear yourself scream. Crazy loud in a weird way (louder in the car than outside). So, I also installed an H pipe before the y-pipe and installed 2 short dynomax bullet mufflers in the straight sections. Those mods made it sound quieter than stock when driving normal (a huge difference).

check out this site http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm NA (77 to 80) cam 248/248 (intake/exhaust) turbo cam 240/248 or 240/240

77 to 80 z/zx NA has 8 more degrees on the intake than a stock turbo cam. And it will slide right into a P90 head. Check out the stock cam specs. You need a 77 or new model to fit the P90 head (internally oiled). Good for another 500 rpms, and rpms make hp.

not all IRS setups are the same. for example. If an old vette breaks a 1/2 shaft, it will lose rear wheel control. If a Z breaks a 1/2 shaft or even an axle, the wheel will stay attached to the A-frame. Just makes a bunch of noise from the 1/2 shaft knocking around.

I don't know what that is (chop fiberglass).???? You do need to use a liquid resin with a mat to form and stick to the uneven surface. what not use fiber glass resin and mat? simple, cheap, easy to use, very strong, durable, and it is sold everywhere.

no, this is not a zx. no head temp sensor at the #5 plug. the temp sensor is near the T-stat housing facing the radiator. Check the ohms on the sensor and the connection at the plug. The plug looks like an fuel injection connector (2 prong).

If you just want to make the car a good driver then just wire brush the floor boards and fiberglass the whole area. In one weekend and about 30 dollars in fiber glass, you can do both floor boards. Go to your local hardware store and get two quarts of fiber glass resin and a lot of fiber glass mat. Clean up the floor boards and lay fiberglass from the top of the foot well to the seat rail. Do it in 1/3 quart increments and cut up the fiber glass mat into 6"x6" sections. Get a box of those thin medical type exam gloves to keep the fiber glass off your hands. You may need to use card board on the bottom of the holes to mold the fiber glass. it will last at least 10 years (maybe 20??) and will be water tight. I have tried those carpet kits and found that home depot has better and cheaper carpet. Black marine and looped. Looks like the factory stuff.

The thickness of the lash pad needed will depends on how much compcams ground off to get that duration. Typically the "bigger" the cam, the thicker the lash pad needed. From my experience, a 280 degree cam will need around 0.190" thick lash pads. However, the thickest lash pad a stock retainer can handle is 0.160" (stock is 0.120). Plus a 280 cam will need stronger springs. So, I would recommend a high performance spring/retainer kit. I get my lash pads from Courtesy Nissan in Dallas, Tx for 3.00/each. FYI, running too thin a lash pad can wipe out a cam very quickly and will make the valve train sound like a diesel truck. I also get my rocker arms resurfaced at Delta Cams for 4.00/each. They also do good cam regrinds for 60.00. If you want to use the stock springs and retainers with 0.160" lash pads then get a 260 cam with 0.440" and use a P series head with L28 flat tops (9:1 cr). Longer duration cams do better with more initial ignition timing. 16 to 20 degrees is common for a lopey street cam. Maybe that is what compcams is talking about. I would install your cam "straight up", that is, just install using the factory cam timing location (see repair manual). Or just install on the 2nd position so you can't be too far off (1 position either way).

10:1cr and a compcam 280 should be fine with 93. Especially with alum head and only 36 degrees of timing. I didn't see any mention of valve springs, retainers, rocker arms, or thicker lash pads in your post. Instead of going with bigger injectors, I would just use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator that is vacuum sensitive, (like an aeromotive brand). try 42 psi at idle which should make around 48 psi at wot. 48 psi should be good for 20% more power.

I would test the air and water temp sensors. Check in your repair manual to find the location and test for these sensors. could also be dirty connections on the above mentioned sensors. Check in the manual to see it there is a cold start injector. Not sure what a 300 uses fro cold start. If you don't have a repair manual then get one. Will also need a volt meter.

Yes, do what you feel is safest. Not flat is a problem. I'm using an external wastegate also. Not sure if you can see that beautiful rtv in the attachment.

I know you don't what to use high heat rtv but it works for me. On the turbo mounting flange and the down pipe.

where does the engine move place the transmission shifter?

I don't use a gasket. Just use a thin layer of high heat rtv. I have been running it that way for years with great results and I hate exhaust leaks with a passion. Heat high rtv has also worked well on 2 of my friends turbo cars. However, it is important to let it dry for a few hours before starting it up.

I'm using a scattershield on my car. However, i had to cut the bottom lip off the shield for ground and exhaust clearance.

Here is an easier way to make an overflow tank. Notice the custom positioning of the Castrol engine oil bottle. Sorry, couldn't resist.

I had good results with a the 10.5 inch ram clutch setup. I used the bronze 6 puck and a flywheel from an old 67 nova (153 tooth). Held up pretty well to my 450hp/425ftlb (362 sbc). Even did ok with a 200 hp shot of n02 (600+hp/600+ftlbs). The clutch finally burned up because of the way I was slipping it off the line at the drag strip. But it lasted 3 years of very heavy drag racing and street pounding. I later switched to a ram sintered iron clutch but it's quick engagement makes it hard to drive on the street. The bronze disk was a good street clutch. Using the bronze disk, ran mid 11's at 120 without n02 with MT drag slicks and a T5. mid 10's at 135 with n02 .

I'm using a T5 that is mounted in a tilted position without any problems. Why couldn't you use it that way?

If you what to build something unique then get a set of small journal 5.7 inch rods and off-set grind a 350 crank to fit the smaller rods. This makes an extra 0.070" stroke, which makes a 362 instead of a 355 with a +0.030" 350. Not much difference, but it does allow to make a Zero-deck setup without machining the block. However, the tops of the pistons will need to be machined off around 0.050". I use a engine like this just because it was already assembled and sitting on the floor on my local speed machine shop. I put on some 200cc dart iron eagle heads (64cc chambers) and a compcam 292H. I shift at 7000 rpm and it runs mid 11's at 120mph. Not too bad.

Yes, I see that now in your specs. 454 sbc. What compression are you running? Ever run a full 1/4 mile with your non turbo 454 setup?

It has been turned 0.030 under (not over). Blocks get bored over because the holes get bigger. Cranks get smaller (under). why make a smaller engine? Get a 350 crank. A 350 will make more power than a 327. People spend a lot of money to make bigger engines like 383's, don't spend money to make a 350 smaller. 6 inch or 5.7 rod. No real difference in power, just cost more.

Why are you calling that a 454! Is that a stroker small block?

I think if you do the math more carefully you will find 64cc on that gm crate engine will have 9.3:1 cr. I helped a friend set one up and that what it was. 717cc/cylinder 64cc heads flat tops (kind of, but had 10cc worth of voids) 9cc head gasket (0.040") 3cc piston under the deck 0.015 (717 + 64 + 10 + 9 + 3) / (64 + 10 + 9 + 3) = (717 + 86)/ 86 =9.34 I would avoid the xtreme series lobes. They are much more prone to go flat. Sure they make a little more power but the lift rates are overly aggressive for a flat tappet cam (IMO). I would use the compcam 260H high energy cam. Plus, you don't need a cam with more exhaust duration with those dart heads because they have a really good I/E flow ratio.

What comes in the kit? does the kit have a fuel pressure regulator that increase the fuel pressure when the N02 is on? does the kit have some kind of timing retard or do they expect you to turn down the timing before using?