Pyro

I hate to say it but..... Every time I had a problem like that it was never a "bad lifter". For me, it was a cam going flat and the start of a cone on the lifter face. And don't forget about the engine bearings eating all that metal. It makes me shiver. And a simple cam change never fixed it for long. My engines always needed a full rebuild to make it right again. I hope I'm wrong in this case. Don't kill the messenger.

For me, it had a terrible effect on turning. Right hand turns, like you would get in a neigborhood, were painfull. The rear half shafts would make this sick noise and the car would shake like it was tearing apart. Parking lots were worst! Left hand turns weren't so bad because of the bigger radius with a left hand turn. I found myself bumping the throttle to kick the back around. The good things were good traction (of course) and just turning the steering wheel after parking doubled as an emergency brake.

Sticky tires will break the diff quickly. Use normal sized street radials and the tires will spin before any breakage. Think of the tires as circuit breakers. Should be ok.

I never really understood the belief that turbos build boost faster with a load so they run better with higher gears (lower numeric value). Well, maybe in first gear when the overall gear ratio is over 10:1. But once my turbo car is in 2nd gear, it builds boost very quickly with a overall gear ratio of around 7:1. So in a Z, at or before an overall ratio of 7:1 is enough load on the turbo for it to build boost quickly. I mean my turbo makes full boost at the same rpm in 2nd gear as it does in 3rd, 4th or 5th. So where is the load effect on the boost? So, I really feel a turbo Z, in say 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear with a 3.90 diff gear would accelerate faster than the same car in the same gear with a 3.54 diff gear based on just mechanical advantage.

Double nut Heat them for 60 seconds with a propane torch. Remove Get a cheapo propane torch from auto zone or home depot.

You could mount the efi pump down low on the side of the tank and cover it with a thin piece of sheet metal. It looks like it could get damaged easily under the tank. Your current efi pump will pull gas up a few inches, i'm sure. I used a mallory comp110 pump to feed my efi pump. It works fine like that. You could even mount the efi pump in the engine compartment if the low pressure pump is feeding it. That is how my car is set up. But, the in-tank pump would be the best solution.

I think the biggest reason the formula didn't work so well with Bastaad525 engine is during the 7 and 10 psi there was no IC and in the 12 psi run there were A/F issues (too lean). Both issues, no ic and/or lean fuel ratios messed up the formula real badly. Air temps and fuel ratio need to be consistant for it to work. However, the 14 psi run, with an IC and more fuel pressure bought the engine's power up closer to where the formula estimated it should be at. 233hp at 14 psi means 120hp base hp.

Yes, I agree the turbo pumping air is a whole different animal. I guess that could be covered with compressor map theories. But a piston engine is a positive displacement pump. And I feel the engine would pull in air more effiecently because of the positive manifold pressure. This could help make up for intake restrictions found in pure NA situations. I believe that "simple formula" that no one likes, is in Corky Bells turbo book. I need to check out that book again! But here is a site from HotRod tech files that claims "15 psi effectively doubles engine displacement". First part of page 1. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/113_0312_turbo/index1.html

Bastaad525, Take it easy. I was just offering a simple formula that is based on science prinicples. But for some reason you guys don't like simple. And it does work perfectly, it is the engine that doesn't. The IC is needed on the stock engine so the air temps are the same as the NA. Otherwise the formula doesn't work, the air temps NEED to be the same. Try it again with IC's installed. And like I had been saying, if the output is lower than expected under boost then something is wrong. And high inlet temps is something wrong. That is why and IC is needed for the formula to work. No, I didn't say a stock L28 couldn't make more than 270 at the crank with 17 psi of boost. Go back and read my old post. What I said was, an engine with a 125hp base power at the wheels would make 270 hp AT THE WHEELS, with 17 psi of boost if everything was working perfectly. If more power was made with 17 psi then the base power was higher to begin with. Hey, I could care less if you want to push a bunch of buttons on your calculator and guess VE numbers. If you don't want to use the simple formula then don't. I just thought it was a useful formula and wanted to share it. SleeperZ, Fluid flow through a pipe theory is good stuff. Basic fluid dynamics, good... However, you are not considering the mechaincal system. As you know, a pump has a much harder time pulling fluid through a pipe as compared to pushing fluid through a pipe. So, the stock intake becomes a lot less restrictive to the engine under positive pressure from the turbo as compared to the vacuum creatated by the piston. Just something else to consider.

I said from the start is was a simple formula. What do you expect from 2 basic inputs in a very simple equation? But, regardless of it's theroritical system that doesn't exsist, the formula still seems to work pretty well. The formula is just a tool. If you want to make a 500 hp engine with 15 psi of boost then you need to start with an engine that can make at least 250 without a turbo.

Sorry, my last reply was for SleeperZ. It seems we messed up your post. Ok, I'll stop it. hahaha

I think the problem with using the stock 280zxt engine with this equation is that there is no IC. An IC is neccessary to maintain equal temperatures into the engine when using this formula. I'm sure the intake temps are much higher with a t3 at 7 psi of boost with no IC as compared to the air intake temp of NA engine. Use an IC on a stock 280ZX and the HP jumps 30hp. Then use the equation. 1 point in compression is not worth much. A stock cam at 7.4:1 versus 8.3:1 will not make much of a difference in HP. Certainly not 20 hp. Maybe 4 or 5hp, at most.

Now you are missing the point also. I'm not saying efficency doesn't make a difference. Or course it does. The formula is simple, as you can tell. It assumes everything is equal except for air pressure. So, the formula gives the maximum hp that a NA engine would produce at a specific boost. That means the turbo and IC are the perfect size and the ignition and fuel are just right. So, a NA engine with 14.7 psi of boost would, in theory, double its output. If there is something wrong with the turbo efficency or air temp or fuel ratio then the power will be lower than the theoritical. That is all I'm saying. Sure, the hp can go up at the same boost level if a better head or a bigger cam is used. But that better head and bigger cam also would increase the NA hp, so the formula remains correct. And, everytime someone posts turbo dyno numbers it proves to me that this formula is a close estimate of power. But as we all know, dyno numbers can vary by a lot. 250 on one dyno could be 300 on another.

That is exactly right! The equation doesn't consider air density or efficency or A/F ratio or. That is the whole point of the equation. It gives the theroitical max hp an engine will make if a certain amount of turbo boost is added. The equation assumes the air temp, air density, etc is the same for the turbo engine is the same as the NA. So, in a "Perfect World", a 125 hp NA engine with 14.7 psi of boost will double it's output. Very simple. Why are you guys making this so hard? And don't forget, there are BIG errors in dyno numbers.

You are missing the point. If the turbo efficency is bad then the hp will be less than what the formula estimates. The formula estimates the perfect situation. if you engine is making 125hp without turbo then, in theroy, it can't make anymore hp then 270 at 17psi of boost. It can only get worst. I don't care what turbo charger you use t3 or t3/t4, you can't make something from nothing. A t3/t4 with a better flowing exhaust turbine would increase the base line hp slightly due to less restrictive exhaust. But boost is boost as long as the efficency isn't too bad. Oh, I forget to mention L28et stock do make 180hp at the wheels with a IC. Yes, a good IC is part of the formula because it doesn't account for heating of the air. And yes, I can dig up some dyno sheets from my friends car showing 180hp with stock boost.

All I can say is. You can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.

Good hp but as you already know, that torque is pretty low. Should be 350ftlb! Are you sure you are reading the dyno sheet right? I think your biggest problem is the stock wastgate. The turbo exhausting directly into the exhaust pipe is much better than dumping into the open volume of the stock wastegate then necking back down to get down the exhaust pipe. Not a big deal at lower hp, but starts becoming a restriction at higher hp levels. That could be hurting the torque??? Here is another one for you Bastaad525. 293hp at 20 psi of boost (20 + 14.7)/14.7= 2.360 2.360 x 125hp = 295hp. And the other post "Dynoed the 280". 270hp at 17psi of boost which is also just about right. 2.156 x 125hp = 269.5 hp That formula is rock solid!! Why can't you see that??? hahahaha Remember 125 hp base for a stock L28 then do the boost multiper. Works everytime!

I think your peak power is right on the mark. 270 hp is what a stock L28 makes at 17 psi of boost when everything is working perfect. So, I think you have the peak hp tuned about right. Maybe your timing is a bit low which could be hurting mid range torque and maybe a little high rpm hp. I can run 25 degrees of total timing at 15 psi of boost with 93 octane on a hot day. I'm sure you could run at least 20 to 22 degrees at 17 psi. If you want more power, you will need to increase boost or add a bigger cam (more rpms) or better exhaust or some head work. Sure there is more power available with a T3/T4 if the engine is setup to use it. Just because you have a hybrid turbo doesn't mean the engine will automatically make more power. What wastegate are you using? Peak power is great but it is also a good idea to tune for power in the mid ranges where you use the engine the most. How does the torque curve look in the mid rpm range?

I'm running the same turbo as you but with the stage 1 cam. My car is also a dog until 3000 rpm and it really starts to pull at 3500 hp. However, I think the turbo has more effect on that than the cam does. The stock cam didn't pull very hard either until 3500 rpms when used with the t3/t04b turbo. With the stage 1 cam, the vacuum is about 14 to 15 "hg at idle. And pulls to 6500 rpm with the crane cam springs and retainers with 0.160" lash pads. I do miss the stock t3 and stock cam setup for street driving. I hate waiting on the torque. Everyday, it seems I pull out into traffic and need to wait for the spool up to get out of someone's way. Plus down shifting is now required which is a bummer. I miss rolling on the throttle in 4th gear and breaking the tires loose. Now, I need to down shift to go anywhere. I would like to see how the stock turbo runs with a bigger cam.

Forget the stock turbo ratings. There is something wrong with the factory rating. A stock L28 turbo engine will do about 170 to 180 hp at the wheels with 7 psi of boost (not at the crank). I have seen stock L28 turbos make this power many times on a dyno. If they don't make that much power then there is something wrong with the engine or the tune or the air is too hot. Plus it is common for a na L28 engine to make about 125hp at the wheels. A stock na engine will do 120 to 130hp at the wheels. The difference in cr from 7.4 or 8.3 or 8.8 doesn't effect the max hp as much as the mid range power and torque. So 7.4 cr makes about the same peak hp as a 8.8 cr, maybe a few hp less, but not much less. So, I disagree, the formula works perfect and is used by most all turbo shops to determine how much power can be made by turbo changing an engine. Sure, there are a much of other varibles that need to be controlled, but the formula shows the max hp obtainable at a boost level starting from a set base hp. Simple Physics!!! stock na L28 power=125hp with 7 psi boost= 184hp with 10 psi boost= 210hp with 14 psi boost= 244hp with 17 psi boost= 269hp Quit fighting it! Science and math are your friends! hahahahaha. If more than 270hp is made with a L28 at 17psi of boost then the base hp has been increased by some other means (exhaust, cam, head porting, etc.)

The formula works perfect because it is based on basic science. You can't make energy from nothing. If the data that goes into the formual isn't good then the data out isn't good either. There are endless varibles when it comes to engine tuning so if there is an error with the formula there is an error with the tune or engine components. Why do you take 2x drivetrain losses? 130 hp already accounts for the drivetrain losses. Why take out another 15%??? 1.88 x 130 = 244 which is pretty close to 240. So, it looks like your engine is making 127 hp (base), working the formula backwards using 13 psi and 240hp. It seems very reasonable to me. If you turn the boost up to 17 psi then you could expect 274hp max (2.156 x 127 hp) if the all other functions are performing correctly (a/f ratio, turbo performance, ignition performance, cooling, exhaust, clutch. etc) it works!!

There is a simple formula for this! It all depends on what HP you start with before turbo charging. That 8-10 hp/each psi is a very general rule and doesn't work in a lot of cases. For example, if a turbo is added to a 10 hp lawn mover engine then that would general rule wouldn't work for sure. see.... The turbo is just a multipler of the hp an engine already has. The multiplier is the following formula: (14.7 + boost psi)/14.7 = muliplier. So a engine with 10 psi of boost with a base hp of 145 would make: ((14.7 + 10)/14.7)x145hp= 243 hp. (9.8 hp/psi) Of course, this assumes a perfect tune. The reason bigger exhaust increases hp is because the bigger exhaust is increasing the base hp. The multiper is the same. The same goes for better flowing heads, bigger cam, etc. So the trick is to turbo charge an engine with good hp to start with. The formula can also be worked backwards to find base hp. Lets say an engine is making 235 hp with 12 psi of boost. Then the multipler is 1.816 which makes the base power 129.4 hp. Then if the boost is turned up to 17 psi then the hp would go to (2.156 x 129.4)=279 hp. (8.8hp/psi) A quick way to figure it is, 7 psi will add another 50% hp over the NA hp, 15 psi doubles the hp. So a mild 350 chevy (350hp/400ftlb) with 15psi of boost would make 700hp/800ftlbs. (23hp/psi) That 8 to 10hp/psi rule works for engines that start out with 120 to 150 hp without a turbo. 14.7 psi is atmospheric pressure.

That is right wheelman! I found the same thing. If the pump is having trouble pulling gas from the tank, it will make a bunch of noise. It will vibrate the front fenders!! Lower the pump to the bottom of the tank first and if it still makes noise then check for a semi-clogged output line from the tank.

Yes, those directions make sense. Florida is a different area that is for sure! Have any plans for a car port or a paved area off the front end of the garage? Or is a car port a bad idea in Florida? Any plans for AC? or a car lift? or machine shop stuff?

I know it is kind of late. But did you consider the north/side/east/west sides of the garage, namely, which way there are facing??? Because..... It is nice too point the doors on the southside to get a summer breeze, and to block the northwind with the back side of the garage, and have the west sun hit the narrow side of the garage to reduce the heat load from the sun. Then maybe make a shortage room on the westside to shield the shop from the hot westwall.