supershanesta

Writing your own EMS code would be pretty sick but insanely difficult. I program for a living and seeing what the MS3 software can do makes me so happy I don't have to think about it lol! I bet their are basic packages that exist to get you started if you really wanted. Here is speeduino, written in C++ which is lower level but faster than python generally: https://github.com/noisymime/speeduino

I purchased the MS3 for my car and soldered it by hand. I have soldered in the past and thought I would save some money. I would actually advise against it personally. It look hours and I had to recheck my work multiple times because it was not working properly by using their ms testing unit https://www.diyautotune.com/product/jimstim-v1-5-megasquirt-stimulator-w-wheel-unassembled/. I would get the testing unit unassembled to have fun soldering. In terms of wiring it up, there is so much documentation here to help. I also paid someone on this forum to tune the care after I got it running. Lots of some things you will have to think about. Was a long process but boy did it feel great to have it running.

I was just pulling my 240z out of the driveway and it died. I originally thought I might be low on gas but it turns out I am not getting spark. I connected my computer and it senses rpm. I can test the injectors and even hear the clicking in the cabin when doing a spark test but it's not creating a spark on the distributor. Do you have steps I could follow with a multimeter to figure out the exact issue? MS2 3.0 L28et. Single coil to stock distributor setup. Thanks, Shane

I used harbor freight Sanders and a hand block kit. Very very important. Used the electric stuff to get the over Bondo off than used hand to finish it up

Here is the Dimensions if someone is interested.

Thanks I will definitely take a look!

Shit but effective means that the welds dont look pretty but it effectively shields from water and rust. It is non structural and hidden. If the weld is solid, grinded flat, and painted you would never tell the difference. It can be done properly with patience. Which I have. I will post pictures after. Thanks, Shane

Well I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I bought the cheapest welder that HF has to offer! lol. I have seen others use this on a datsun and weld in panels without too much issue. I know it burns hot, I know it uses flux but I plan to do small beads and move around to get it done right. I am practicing with sheet metal now. If you think this is a very bad idea let me know, but after doing testing I think it can be done. Might not be the cleanest, but It can be done. My dad always tells me "SBE" Shitty but Effective. That's my goal.

Your right. At the end of the day it will be worth it for me to learn. I can use it on other parts of the car later down the road. Also a good point as it is not visible and structural. If it doesn't look great who cares. I really appreciate your guy's responses. I think I will be going the diy route and buying welder. It will come in handy for sure! I will be posting my progress here later in the weekend and hopefully get it done in the next couple weeks after I feel comfortable welding. Thanks, Shane

Well I got a quote.... $600. This is from Craigslist. At that price I feel like I should just buy a Vulcan 140 welder from Harbor Freight for $400 and make this a DIY. Practice for a week and go for it. Anyone here weld? Do you think it would be too ambitious of me to try to do it myself with little to no experience?

Interesting. Did he do the same repair or something else?

lol I need to find a buddy to weld. Well I guess I will start looking into it. Better sooner than later.

To me, it just depends on how much worse. If its not going to change much in 3 years then i would rather wait. But it does suck to stare at it.

Hey Guys, I just finished doing vinyl work on my car and forgot about a major rust area at the back hatch sill. My question is.. can I wait? I plan to get the car sandblasted, rust corrected and painted in 3 to 4 years and would like to hold off but I can tell its bad. I bought a replacement top sill but I know damage is done underneath. If I paid someone to do the bottom piece (fab and welding) would it be expensive? Say over $500. I am not comfortable welding. I am in California and owned the car for 2 years and never touched the rust knowing I need to asap before the rear tail light area gets worse. Would the rust get much worst in that time or would it be similar and I should just wait. Thanks for your help, Shane

Here is a video of the process that I did. Just a quick edit if you want to check it out.