jonbill

What kind of a car and engine is "this beast"? If you're idling an l6 in an s30 with an unvented bonnet and no heat shielding on the exhaust, the injectors may well be heat soaked. But then again, if as you say you can add fuel until it stumbles and it still reads lean, then it sounds like a duff sensor or an air leak in the exhaust. Is it a genuine Bosch LSU4.9? Where did you buy it?

What sensor and wb controller is it?

Sounds like a duff sensor.

Thats almost invincible.

A couple of things that might help: When a cylinder doesn't fire, then the wbo2 reads full lean because the gas passing over it is atmospheric air. None of the oxygen has been used to burn fuel. This happens whether the misfire was because the mixture was too lean or because it was too rich. So when you're at 11 afr and go richer, it wont burn and so it shows lean. Telling TS that you have bigger injectors when you haven't changed them will make it leaner, because the calculation assumes that it can deliver the required fuel in a shorter time. Assuming your injectors are big enough for your power level, when you're maxed out on the VE table values (as your are) a larger required fuel value will give you more head room.

Pull the cam out and get it reground to a more aggressive profile. You'll get more power (maybe) and more lash clearance. Win win.

50s ftw.

Just to be a bit contrary: IF you can find someone competent with dual sidedraughts, I guarantee it will be a lot cheaper to get the webers spot on than to supply, fit, tune ITBs and EFI

I'd look at where the throttle plate is, in relation to the progression holes. You want it to start uncovering a progression hole at the first movement of the throttle. I think it is possible to setup idle by keeping the idle bypass screws shut and opening the throttle to the first progression hole, but you've then got a fair way to go to the next progression hole. Correct way is to have idle on completely closed throttle and idle air supplied by the bypass screws.

I expect the missing bit is in the sump. I'm sure you'll be able to epoxy it all back together. The cam lobes look ok, thats the main thing to check out with the spray bar broken. I've never seen those bits made of cast ally, mine have all been pressed steel.

Maybe try the next size up idle jet, that might cover the transition hole, might richen it a little at wot too. Also check the float levels if you haven't already.

I'd check that the accelerator pump is working correctly first. Take the carbs off and see if they squirt fuel out the back.

Will it get up to the higher revs ok if you don't give it so much throttle? If it can accelerate up at part throttle without any hiccups, then its probably the accelerator pump circuit.

To ensure enough pressure and flow to the bottom end.

Mine is r200 with r200 moustache bar. is yours an r200 moustache bar? i believe they are different. Maybe not the wrong way round, maybe just the wrong bar....