thezguy

socorob- Thanks for taking the time to look. You are correct you would have to pull the sensor and mark a tooth and start spinning the driveshaft.

I know little about it, However I am not disputing what it measures rather how it actually measurers driveshaft speed. If there is no magnetic strips or teeth to "count" how would it know how fast the DS was spinning? there has to be a unit of measure. Shannon specifically asked me to get the teeth count on anything I would be using to measure the speed. Given there was teeth to count.

In order to get the rate of change it has to measure the speed. You are essentially have to have a way to measure the diameter of the driveshaft so you know how many times it is spinning.

Sell the T56 and buy a TR6060

The Davis box has the option the use any two forms of retardation together. Timing/boost/fuel/nitrous etc. I do like the idea of using the MSD box to cut timing based on RPM at certain "ranges" for the simplicity of it. However I more so like the idea of having live actual DS speed feeding the control box it just seems more to the point. From what I've been reading there are tons of ways to do accomplish TC such as wheel speed sensors/DS speed sensors/ timing retardation etc.

I can count the teeth but the car is not in my possession at the moment.

Input shaft/companion flange are the same thing. Like I stated earlier the fisch calls it a companion flange. From my understanding the later model Diffs with the two sensors are actually wheel speed sensors vs. DS speed sensor like In the front. You do not need an ABS system. I am trying to utilize a pre existing way to measure DS speed (abs sensor/ring gear) that is already installed on my diff. Utilizing this sensor would prevent me from having to speed extra money and mounting hardware and sensors

Sunny are you not going to use the self tune or "learning" function? ive heard guys are going 8's without having to do anything besides setting timing

Cant go wrong with local help! what exactly does EFI do different in order to accommodate no lift shifts?

Yes, The parts fisch refers to it as the companion flange. If you have one lying around you can pull the sensor out and clearly see the ring gear for a count

I was told the Diff came from a 95 Q45.. I know it is the R200 VLSD short nose with the ABS sensor plugged into the right side of the diff if looking at it from the rear of the car.

Good point. Mind pointing me in the right direction? all the info ive run across is how to get rid of traction control and ABS. What im essentially looking for is the tooth count on the ABS ring for the short nose VLSD R200

I looked into PRO EFI but was not happy with the interface. Holley is much easier to navigate and understand. I do like the Traction control and Flex fuel option built into EFI though.

Holley Efi has the ability to control boost/timing using wheel speed sensors? I thought the davis box was needed in order to do that?

Why would I want traction control? Do I seriously have to awnser that question. 275 tire + 800hp + 2900lbs = ZERO traction Let's keep this on topic fellas does anyone have an idea?

Im about to order a Davis Traction control box for my S30. Im trying to figure out th eseast way to read drive shaft speed. Shannon davis has a loop mount and sensor to read the drive shaft speed but its a bit pricey. When rebuilding my diff a few months ago i noticed an ABS sensor? in the front of the short nose R200. The question i have is what exactly is this sensor reading? pinon flange speed? a reluctor wheel? how does it read it? does any one have detailed information on this. the davis box can be calulated to run just about any sensor so it would be nice to utilize what is already there.

Why does'nt anyone run forward facing and up manifolds and plumb the exhuast under them? seems like it works fine for this car.. http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/1699938-twin-turbo-lsx-datsun-280z-5.html He is running a 3" pipe and there looks to be plenty of room to spare

I've been seeing a lot of really cool Turbo/Twin Turbo Z cars on LS1tech.. One guy building a TT Z that used to post here.

Hurry up already.. March is coming up quick.

Who builds custom intercoolers for reasonable prices?

duh! not sure how I missed those. I actually found the problem, I tightened the top steering rod bolt closest to the hockey puck first. The correct process should be tightened the 4 bolts on the hockey puck bushing and then center the rod and tighten both ends.

Thanks for the help

Thanks for the suggestion i will try that. Im not sure which u-joints you are talking about on the front end? I dont remeber seeing any.

I decided to remove my entine front suspension/steering rack etc. for a new paint job and bushing install on my 280Z. After re-installing everything i have noticed my steering is extremely tight. you can clearly here a grinding noise from the steering wheel which was never there before. The thing that baffles me is that i can grab the hocky puck bushing on the steering linkage and more or less easily turn it either direction and get the steering to move either direction fairly easily. If i grab a hold of the rotors and try to force them one direction or another it is damn near immposible.. How can i so easily turn the steering wheel or steering shaft yet when i attempt to turn the wheel assembly it is a nightmare? I will say that i have never done this before and did have a the rack apart. I did not take apart theinternals but i did remove the tie rods and the threaded ends off of the "steering rod in housing" It looks like i might have messed up something that was pre set? any help would be great! im not looking forward to taking all this apart again but hey..