wondersparrow

Thats a lot for a used oil cooler, whats so special about it? Not trying to be rude, just not familliar with the zxt at all.

Weber jets, almost forgot about those. It ran pretty hard the few times I have had it out, but who knows how the tune is going to be on the rebuilt motor. I don't have anything to bring to the dyno. I'll go check what is in there at the moment and guess what I might need. Would be handy to have a good set.

I am just trying to finish my revival of a long lived 240z road race car. Who am I kidding, it will never be done. Engine is still at the shop draining my wallet, but there are a few things I would like to get before its put back on the track. 1. Harmonic Balancer - Anyone have a spare BHJ or SFI or something similar they want to turn into money? One with an edis trigger wheel already fit would be awesome. Matching sensor mount would get even more points. Not using edis now, but will once I have all the goodies. 2. 15x7 wheels - You know those old dusty (not rusty) diamonds in the back of your wifes gardening shed? They would love to attach some slicks to an s30 instead of holding up a bag of potting soil. Wheels have dreams too you know! 3. Adjustable cam gear - Don't _need_ one, but really, who does. Serious bolt-on horsepower right there 4. Oil cooler - Something nicer than the rx7 one calling my name at the local pick and pull. Though if I can find one beat up enough it will look like a matched set with my rad. And oh yes... 5. Radiator - The shinier the better. Well not really; but who doesn't want a shiny rad. I am pretty sure the one that is in there is a stock one from a z. Its bent, and dented, and been recored more than a few times. It works, but its pretty shameful. 6. Spare parts. If there is someone that lives near me in the great white north and has a pile of drivetrain bits waiting to go to the scrapper, let me know. Things like axels, transmissions, diffs, etc. One day I will upgrade to some hardcore gear, but till then I am sure the massive power from my 2.5L beast will devastate the stock powertrain, muahahahaa. 7. Tail lights - Those JDM ones your got are sweet, and I am jealous. I swear, I am! Anyway, how much do you want for your hand-me-downs? I got a little paint on my left one when I sprayed the car. I cleaned it up as best I could, but it just doesn't look right now. If that is the price for learning to paint a car, it ain't so bad. Car looks good, tail light is blah. I am sure I will think of a few more things. I am trying to replace pretty much all moving parts as this was a track car for 20+ years before I bought it. It will never win any beauty pageants, but we are going to have some fun together.

I agree. I have been coming to this thread for years now and it would be so much work to make a new bookmark

Those do look pretty sweet, and you are the second person to give them props. I'll have to see what they cost up here

Oh, I will add... Even though I am not that great at it (yet), this is all out GT racing with a trailered car. This car will never see open streets anywhere. The cop living down the street from my place even negates the chance of ripping around the block :/

Thats a great read, thanks Jon. Unfortunately I am looking to go backwards compared to everyone else out there. It would be nice to find a similar thread comparing the differences between "supa summa" tires and full slicks. I came across a few, but they were all pretty vague. I guess the question that looms in my mind the most is "What is better, an R compound tire or a used up slick?" I have posted again in some of the local club forums looking for used slicks and they seem to be pretty non-existent at this point in the season. That picture on the beta motorsports site is pretty much exactly what I was planning on before I looked at the costs (and my bank account). I even have the same wheels in gray, hehe. I would even go out on a limb and say those appear to be the same 23x9.5 Hoosiers I was looking at. At $1000 a set, and a few sets a year, I need a second job

I apologize for not being more clear off the start. The car has slicks on it now, and they are pretty much wood, hence the need for something new. They are old goodyears and been cycled far too many times. The car has stiff springs and is currently setup for slicks. Cantilevered tires are the ones that bulge out a long way from the rim. the 23x9.5x15's that are on it now are designed for a 7" rim. They go from 7" to about 10" at thier widest and then supposedly give a 9.5" contact patch. I hear the R compound tires are getting better and better every year and I am wondering if slicks really are worth the cost. Squeezing a 235/50R15 on there would give me a similar contact patch. I am not all that competative yet, I have only raced in 5 events total. I am totally self funded and just going out to have some fun. This is why I am seriously looking at things like the Toyo R888 tires. In my complete slaking at work today I have done a lot of reading. The R888s sound like they should be more consistent for longer and are less affected by heat cycling. Slicks can lose thier grip pretty fast. If you have, say, 4 races in a weekend, by the end of the second weekend, they are pretty much toast. This is when high budget racers toss them and guys like me pick them up and run them for half a season My questions are really, how much slower are the R compound tires? Would those experienced say that an R compund tire would be faster than an overused slick? With my hard springs in the car now (can't remember the numbers off the top of my head), would R compounds even work? That is something I hadn't concidered before today. I would assume at the very least that I would need to throw in a couple of degrees of extra camber to get the R compounds to work properly. I know it would mean playing with the setup and retuning the car a little, but if I can get a season (or most of one) out of a set, it might be worth it.

Cantilevered slicks was the plan. It was just the price that is not so attractive anymore. I have been running them, I have used both Goodyear and Hoosier. Goodyear has become a pain in the arse as there is now only one place in Canada you can get them and it is on the complete opposite end of the country and they don't even keep them in stock. You need at least a 6 week lead time to get them. Not so bad unless you damage some and need replacements quickly. I have seen that ebay store a few times, but it doesn't look like he will ship to Canada. I will have to drop him an e-mail and see. Up here in the great white north we get screwed on a lot of specialty items like race tires. If you can't find a dealer in Canada, you get raped on shipping and duty. Last set of tires I ordered from the US ended up getting the good 'ol UPS tax. Shipping/duty/taxes/brokerage came to over 50% of what the tires cost. Its just not worth it most of the time. Hoosiers are the only slicks I can get from a dealer in town. Pretty much all of the DOT slicks are readily available. I have been asking around about used slicks, but it seems everyone in GT3 or lower is running something like the Toyos. I guess if you have the budget for slicks, you have the budget for GT2 or GT1. Most of them are running 17x10 wheels. I wish the FA tires were available used around here, that would be superfantasic Have any of you guys ran both slicks and DOT on the same car/track? How much "worse" are they? I'll probably have to setup the car a little different to run the radials. More camber from what I understand. Edit: I think I was typing this up when JohnC posted. The RA-1's look like they are being discontinued in favour of the R888s. None of the Candian dealers can get the RA-1s anymore. Has anyone tried the R888s? Does shaving make that big a difference? The Hoosier A6/R6s are not much cheaper than the full slicks at all. For $5/tire I would probably stay with the slicks, even if I do get less life out of them.

I have been doing some searching, and I thought I would ask for some opinions here as I have a lot of respect for the Hybridz Crew. The time has come to get some new track tires. This is a track-only car. Nowhere near street legal, so driving to the track is not a concern. I will be running my 240z in GT3 (in Western Canada, not sure if the rules are the same as SCCA) and I am limited to a 15x7 wheel. All along I have been planning on getting some more Hoosier slicks in a 23x9.5x15, but they are quite pricey at $250/tire. I am on a pretty tight budget, so I decided to have a look at Toyo's offerings. They have some great programs for racers that caught my attention. I was looking at both the R888's and RA-1's because they would end up being sooooo much cheaper (more than $100 less per corner). What do the racers around this site use? Will I be giving up a lot in terms of grip moving away from the slicks? The 235/50's would give me the same tread width, but that inch and half larger diameter would lose me some torque, and with a little L24 motor, I am not sure how much that will affect things. The 225/45's will give me the same overall diameter, but I lose an inch of tread width. Ugh, decisions. Anyhoo, I would appreciate any input people can offer. Sparky

Sorry for the necropost, but I am curious if this is still available. I would like to edis up my track car over the winter, but sourcing a damper with a reluctor is a little tricky. It is a race engine, so I only need 1 pulley.

Good day all, I have been thinking about converting my l24 track car to edis using MegaJolt. I want to keep my webers, but computer controlled ignition is something that would be handy. At the same time, I am thinking of getting something like a Traqmate for data logging and maybe video. Can you use the same sensor (say, water temp) for multiple devices (megajolt, dash gauge, datalogger)? It really would be a waste to have 3 sensors all tracking the same thing. Are there sensors with multiple outputs? How about gauges with outputs? Some sort of repeater type device I can add in? sometimes it seems hard to search for something you don't really understand. Right now most of the gauges are various aftermarket mechanical ones, I don't mind upgrading if there is a product of decent value that will help the cause. The wiring is quite dated and will be replaced too, but I would really like to keep things as simple as possible.

That is quite the job, and it does sound quite doable, but I think getting some practice on a stock head might be a good idea. This time I run it over the machine shop and have them do it. After doing a lot of research earlier, I decided to go have a really close look at things. I think the intake valve in another cylinder is cracked. Its hard to get the light just right to see it from the side. It does look like there is a little oil in the exhaust port, so I'll have them take a peek at that too. While looking closely at everything I noticed that my valves seem to be a cobbled collection of who knows whats. The markings, shape and even colour of the valves are slightly different. Looks like only a 2 angle valve job. I know that this car has been raced pretty much since it was new and has had a lot of owners. I just wonder if it is worth it at this point to get some new ones. I don't see valves or guides for sale at many of the usual places. Springs and cams are all over the place, hehe. As well, I am pretty sure my guides aren't stock, I have a stock e88 head for comparison purposes. Anyhoo, I guess I got some things to think about. This quickly went from a cheap and easy valve seal job to a serious case of while I'm in there's.

Ok, so the other day I was investigating an oil burning issue on my track 240z and I noticed one of my valve seals was not seated at all. I decided to replace them all with the ford viton ones today. I do have a fairly high lift cam and thought that might have been the issue. Anyway, when I took the springs off the valve in question, I found the top of the guide was actually broken off flush with the surface of the head. bummer. The fsm says to press out the old ones, ream the hole to spec and press in the new valve under heat. Is this something that needs to be done at a machine shop or can it be done in the garage? I have a press and flame at my disposal. Does the head actually need to be reamed out most of the time? Money is tight, but if the knowledge consortium on this site suggests taking it in, I will. What might cause the guide to break? Are there "performance" guides? I have schneider cam and springs, don't know about the valves. Should I bite the bullet and replace them all or is it acceptable to replace just the one broken one? Its an exhaust guide that is broken if that matters. Thanks in advance, you guys are always a big help

Ok, I know nothing, so take anything I have to say as a best guess and nothing more. It looks like the surface of the head or the base of the cam towers was shaved. I have shims under my cam tower, don't know if that is stock or not, came to me that way. I don't know how to properly set the wipe pattern on these heads, but I know you can get different thicknesses of lash pads too. Something doesn't look right, thats for sure.

It goes along well with the fact that absolutely nothing is stock on this car Maybe one day once I have collected enough information I can actually get this beast tuned correctly With a big cam like that, I am thinking I should probably get an adjustable timing gear and get it dialed in on the dyno.

Yes, of course, thank you! I did however find the same info on my own, I just didn't know if 17038=17937.

so it is a Schneider? I couldn't seem to find 17937 anywhere.

Well, since the valve cover was off again, I decided to take a closer look at my cam markings. On the end closest to the firewall there are 3 markings. "300F", "M", and "17937". On the sides of the cam there are "CWC", "C5", "D1" and a couple of others I couldn't quite make out. I need to get in there with some better light. Anyone have any ideas what the specs are on this cam? It looks like that may be a Schneider part number, but I can't seem to find anything.

ooooh, shiny things, me like The bar that I have for my triples came with the arms welded on. Do you guys ever have issues with the arms slipping? I know you can move them back if they do, but I like the adjust-ability factor.

I did a heat shield last summer. At first I was bending, twisting, and drilling trying to figure out a good way to mount it to the intake or carbs. After all was said and done, what worked best was just using a flat piece of stainless and using a couple of exhaust clamps to fasten it to the header. I wrapped it on both sides with a heat blanket as well. Its a bit of a pain to get on and off, but it was cheap and simple. Dropped my engine temps by nearly 15 deg c on the track and no more vapor lock issues. After a cooldown lap, both the shield and carbs are cool enough to touch or work on right away. Oh, if it matters, my headers are wrapped as well. Its hard to see here, but this is the best pic I have.

Silly question... I received the manifold stud kit from MSA. It has 3 sizes. 6 long, 1 med, 10 short. Who knows where they go? I would assume the medium one goes in the middle. I would also assume the long ones go between the intake and exhaust (where the giant washers go). Is this correct? When I got the car, they were all the same length and the fsm has no info at all.

Megasquirt for all intents and purposes is a standalone aftermarket ecu. Do a little research. I haven't done an efi conversion yet, but I will be as soon as funds allow. http://www.diyautotune.com/faq/faq.htm#whatheckms ITB - individual throttle bodies. There are lots out there, these are the ones I have my eye on. http://extrudabody.com/Products/ITBs.html Having a completely stripped track car, I am not concerned with any of the stock electrics or gauges. For me to make the switch, those two items are the biggest costs involved. I have triple webers and a fuel cell installed already, so again no worries about stock gas tank or intake mani. Unless I am mistaken, injectors, wiring, fuel pump and lines would be all that remains for a basic setup. Oh, and the ford edis 6 system if you want to get rid of the distributor. There is tons of info on this site, poke around.

how stiff is the front end on the Z cars? Does the rad support do much more than hold the rad in place? Would there be anything wrong with just welding in some tubing with repads and calling it a day? Yeah i know it won't look stock, but doing something like that could open up other possibilities like tilting the rad and having the air exit out through the hood.

That much really wont make much of a difference in timing. And really, unless you have an adjustable timing sprocket, there isn't much you can do about it.