Andrew Bayley

Thanks a lot for the advise guys. Per most everyones advice, I went out and bought a B.F.C.B. (c.b. = crow bar). Well, I pried, and pried, and pried, and pried... but to no avail, the damn things never popped out. I'm thinking I need to slide hammer them out, but my patience is wearing thin. Anyone have an R200 with the stub flanges already out? It would be nice to have a "spare" diff. Please send me an E-mail if anyone has an extra diff they'd like to gid of. The local bone yard want's $150 for a beat to heck unit. I didn't think that was a very good deal I guess I need to keep looking. Till then, I'm going to give the slide hammer a try. If that doesn't work, I'm going to just keep using the U-joints until I can find another diff. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

I'm running a B&M hammer shifter, and have been mostly happy with it. Some of the stuff they do is a little cheap, but it works really good. I'll agree with John in saying that you most likely want a rachet style shifter. First gear goes by awfully quick with a 700R4 in a Z. That is one shift you do not want to miss. Also, Ross C brought up a good idea of recessing these shifters into the trans tunnel. It's a very good idea and could easily be done, but I mounted mine flush to the trans tunnel. Yeah, it sticks up a little, but it's in the perfect driving position for me. Picture of Shifter: http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/cgi-bin/i/witeface.jpg -Andy [This message has been edited by Andrew Bayley (edited April 02, 2001).]

Interesting question. I've been thinking of moving the battery to the back myself, but I don't like the idea of a mandatory cut off switch at the drag strip. The following is from the 2000 NHRA rule book: From General Regulations 8:4 MASTER CUTOFF Mandatory when battery is relocated. An electrical power cutoff switch (only one) must be installed on the rearmost part of each vehicle and be easily accessible from the outside of the car body. This cutoff switch must be connected to the positive side of the electrical system and must stop all electrical functions including magneto ignition. The off position must be clearly indicated with the word "OFF". If the switch is "push/pull" type, "push" must be the action for shutting off the electrical system, "pull" to turn it on (huh huh, pull to turn it on ). Any rods or cables used to activate the switches prohibited. Switches must be located behind rear wheels on rear engine dragsters.

Hi all, I know I've asked this question before, but I've been at my whit's ends lately. I'm trying to convert over to CV's, but I've been unsuccessful due to the fact that I can not get the flange's out of the R200. I've heard stories of a nut that holds these things in place. Nope, no retaining nut on these flanges. Also, I've heard these flanges are supposed to "slide" out. Well, I've pulled pretty dang hard and they won't even budge. I'm just wondering if I'm losing my mind, or if I got an R200 with immovable differential flanges. Somebody please help me...! Thanks, -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

Funny guy Lone, You might not be worrying about this stuff now, but it will eventually turn around and get you. Trust me, it's only a matter of time before you start i"complaining" about 0 - 60 times greater than 3 seconds. Scottie, I'd like to put a link to that spreadsheet on my 1/4 mile times page. Ask the owner if that's OK and I'll credit his excellent work. -Andy

No more Calculus for me!!! I'm done with that stuff!!! Thank god there's people like this out there that are willing to do all the dirt work for us. 0 - 60 in 3.01 sec I just couldn't break that 3.0 second barrier -Andy

Hmmm... I though Trans Brakes had a little button that would engage the reverse clutchs while in first gear. Then, when the button was released, the reverse clutchs would be disengaged. I didn't realize that some brakes automatically engaged the reverse while in first gear. I guess they are all different. This is the only picture I got of my shifter, it's OK but I know you've seen it before. Getting the plastic base to fit took a bit of time, but it doesn't look too bad. I was in a total hurry when I did it and it could have been done better. Also, the hole in the consol for the shifter needed to be lengthened for the Hammer to fit. Oh yeah, it takes a considerable amount of force to shift gears. Nothing that my wife couldn't handle (and she's no powerhouse), but I wouldn't really call it a "tap". By the way, where did you get your trans brake. I've been looking for a 700R4 brake and nobody has a clue. I figure someone that has one for a 2004R can't be to far from a 700R4 brake. -Andy Hammer Pic: http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/cgi-bin/i/witeface.jpg ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey [This message has been edited by Andrew Bayley (edited March 26, 2001).]

Scottie, I'm not 100% sure how your trans brake works, I don't know what gear your shifter needs to be in for it to work. However, I do know that on the B&M Hammer shifter, you can only get to 1st gear from 2nd gear. There is no way to go from OD all the way to first withour racheting through 3 and 2 along the way. The only way to instantly go into first would be with a reverse valve body. Besides that, I've been happy with the Hammer shifter. I wasn't too happy with the initial size of the whole contraption, but it grew on me. Also, it feels very nice and the shifter is stiff... but not too stiff. Just make sure that cable is adjusted correctly. I had my trans kickdown into 2nd gear at 100mph once because the shifter wasn't adjusted correctly. -Andy

Listen to Lone, The Chevrolet Chevette was the smallest, lightest, rear wheel drive car GM ever produced. Do a search for "Big Block Chevette Sleepers" and look through all the responses you get. That "Bad Seed" project in Hot Rod magazine went 12.1's (at 3000 feet of elevation) on something like $2000 of junk yard parts (including the Chevette!) Personally, I'd like to convert an early 80's Chrysler K-car into a rear wheel drive sleeper. Heck, I wouldn't even need to do that. Some guy already has an 11 second wrong-wheel-drive K-car with just the Chrysler turbo-II motor. Just try to imagine the humility he inflicts upon poor unknowing victoms... -Andy

The motor "should" drop in just fine with the headers installed. Just keep on eye on all the electrical wires and mechanical hoses/tubes on the way up or down. I pinched a water hose between the collector and the frame once while dropping the motor in. Didn't realize it until I got everything together, started the motor up and let her warm up. It was a mess. Long tube headers are a little more trickey to get in during a drop, but block huggers are fine with them bolted on the motor. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

HEY!!! I actually get to plug my web site!!! http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/Times.html Feel free to give me any times you might have and I will add them to the site. -Enjoy -Andy (Thanks for the reference Rick)

Tom, be aware of the MSD 6A's lack of high voltage tach output. The stock Datsun Tach uses a high voltage pickup off the ignition coil. When I switched over to MSD, I had a hell of a time getting the stock tach to work. None of the adapters worked that MSD sold me (this was five years ago, I've heard they got better). I eventually got one of their units to work, but only untill 4000 rpm. That wasn't good enough for me, I eventually switched to an aftermarket tach. MSD wasn't much help when it came to troubleshooting my tach problem. As for the performance increase, this was virtually nill. However, start up was noticably better and the idle was improved. As far as best "bang for the buck" goes. Nitrous wins, hands down! With a relatively basic small block (stock internals), it is safe to spray a 100 - 125 shot without worrying about too much. Anything over that would raise concerns. Now, I'm not saying that Nitrous is the god-sent end all to high horsepower... but it is the cheapest, easiest and most efficient way to greatly increase power output. Good Luck, -Andy

Rick, I don't play with modified GN's anymore, some of them are just too mean for me. Some guys will have a few mods and I can just waste them, while other bone stock looking GN's will just annihilate me. Unless I'm running an honest 9 second street car, I will still be suspecious of the "average" looking GN. And even then... ...turbo's are cool. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

Rick, I got the transmission from a yard and I've got a feeling that it was recently rebuilt when I got it. I've only put maybe 5000 - 6000 miles on it since I installed it. I'm saying this because everything inside the transmission looks brand new. The bands look perfect, I can't see any wear in the clutches and I found no debris in the trans pan (of course, I removed and cleaned it when I first installed it). The only thing I can think of, is when the trans was rebuilt, someone didn't properly install the gasket. I know, I know, I know... I can't imagine how else this would have happened All the pump bolt appeared to be tightened to spec and the pump took the normal amount of "motivation" to get it out. ...wierd! John, My goal is to have everything running again by April 1st. Realistically, this is a long shot. I still have to install my fuel cell, repair my broken rear strut, install my CV's, and f weld up an exhaust for myself. A lot of my friends are going racing on "opening day" the first of April. I should have the motor and trans done by then, but I don't know about the exhaust and fuel cell. If worse comes to worse, I'll just use the old tank once again and trailer the car to the track and run open headers ( ). Why not... maybe then I'll actually be able to hear my car over everyone else's. Oh, and Kevin... I believe the correct term is: Murphyus Lawieus Maximus -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

I totally agree with what Jim said. One pipe resonating is bad. Two pipes resonating at the same time is painful!!! I used to have a Cadillac that I experimented with true duals. First, I ran two equal lenght glass packs half way back in the trans tunnel. Very loud, tons of resonation. Next I put two more equal length glass packs right at the back of the exhasust system. It became quiet, but there was still quite the drone. Then one day, out of dumb luck, one of my tailpipe glass packs fell off. Instead of replacing it with the same sized (18") muffler, I opted for the smaller 12" one. To my surprise, the resonance was gone. Also, the tone of the exhaust was much more smooth. Anyway, I was wondering if anybody knows of a source where I can get 4" mandral bent exhaust pieces. I've been considering the single exhaust route again. Two pipes would look cool, but single would be cheaper and easier ( a little more "stealthy" as well ). -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

There is actually a guy somewhere around here that drag races a 240Z with a 440 motor. Run's low 9's and is pretty much a low dollar car (less than 10K total investment, very ncie and clean car). I'm a SBC fan 'till the end, but I can't argue with those numbers. Also, my friend Jer has a Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with a 360 and 727 that will actually walk my Impala SS. Well, it used to walk me... before I added the spray Ragardless of who made what... If it's fast, it's all right with me!!! -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

Thanks Tony, I would have liked to help out the fellow Z community, but again, I'm starting to feel the time crunch set in. A friend with a Mustank is starting to talk a lot of poop and he needs to be put in his place. Well, he already knows his place... he just likes to get me fired up. I've definetly got you on the list for future jobs. By the way, I had to pay $225 for my long tubes to be stripped and coated. Haven't picked them up yet, but I've heard from a second source that they look pretty nice. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

I'd like to get my hands on one of those FIA World Rally Focus's. All Wheel Drive, 7 speed manual, a VERY restricted 400 horsepower that could easily be raised to well over 500hp in a car that weighs about 2500 fully rigged. Now that... sounds FUN! As for the 0.5 million on a 300 horse Focus, I can easily see where the money would get out of hand. Many high dollar items that don't do squat for performance. It's amazing the number of automotive engineers that know absolutly Z-E-R-O about engine performance. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey [This message has been edited by Andrew Bayley (edited March 14, 2001).]

Rick, I feel your pain. How's this sound, you tell me why my transmission is leaking so bad and I'll diagnose your engine knock. ...how accurate does my diagnosis have to be? -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

...third times a charm! ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

Nope, let's try again. ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

doh, stupid signature. Let's see if this works.

Good suggestions Rick. I checked the vent tube intially (sorry, should have stated that earlier) and there were no signs of leakage up there. Also, I did check the oil return passage in the pump housing (near the converter seal). Everything looked A.O.K. As I was reading my truty Haynes manual, they said that some of the earlier 700's had the smaller passages that should be opened up to 1/4 inch. However, I was able to pull the pump out tonight and I did make one discovery (you nailed this one John!!!). There is a large ring style papaer gasket that goes between the pump base (the side that is inside the trans) and the trans case itself. After I pulled the valve body off, I noticed that this gasket had slipped off in an area about 3 - 4 inchs long. Here is my hypothesis: The gasket was slowly slipping, causing slight leakage (is that even a word )upon heavy acceleration. As I drove the car more and more, the gasket continued to slip until it eventually slid entirely out of it's seated position. Once the gasket had completely slid out, a passage was created for high pressure fluid from the pump to leak between the pump and trans case, then out onto the converter. I'm still not 100% sold on this theory of mine, but I totally disassembled most everything in the transmission tonight and this was the ONLY item that didn't look right. Everything else (gaskets, o-rings, bushings, etc...) looked fine. I'm going to reassemble the pump with new o-rings just to be safe, then reinstall the pump. I'm still on the fence over wether or not to replace all the clutches... it just sounds and looks like a pretty large undertaking. Alos, new clutches and such will run me a few more bucks than a $2 pump gasket. Thanks again everyone for your input. Keep this board number 1. -Andy ------------------ Andrew's LAnd of Z and Honey [This message has been edited by Andrew Bayley (edited March 13, 2001).]

Thanks for the help guys. I've pretty much concluded that my converter is O.K. (thank god!) I flushed it out with mineral spirits then pressure checked for crack leaks. Everything seemed fine, all the movements seemed to be within clearances. I got a feeling my problem is somewhere in the pump. I'm thinking the O-ring that seals the pump assembly to the case has eaten itself. Small problem, but I'm probably going to have to pull the valve body to get the pump assembly out. Arrgh!@#$ Oh well, that's life I guess. -Andy

Dang it! I meant to post this under the "Driveline" section. Pete or Mike, could one of you move this thread for me? Raul, Thanks for the info. I was just thinking that it was a seal in the pump that let go. Never thought it might be a bearing issue. I've never torn apart an automatic transmission before, so this is all new stuff to me. Where is this bearing located (general location)? -Thanks -Andy