Andrew Bayley

The 2+2 is a larger car in just about every dimension. The biggest thing, is the longer wheel base of the 2+2. The next most noticable difference is the flattened roof line of the 2+2 (the couple is more curved). Also, because of the flattened roof, the hatch is more vertical and is slightly smaller. I don't want to step on any one's toe's about which is better, or why... but it mostly comes down to personal preference. The Coupe or the 2+2 will both hold up equally fine with a V8 swap. After that it's again, personal preference. Personally, I choose the Coupe because I liked how the body lines flowed verse the 2+2. Again, this is my preference. Good Luck in your search. -Andy

It looks like he simply printed out a new set of gauge faces (on a computer or such) and glued them to the existing gauges. I'm definetly goingto knock them, they look schweet and were probably be a lot cheaper than going the Auto-not-that-accurate-Meter route -Andy

I'll agree with what DavyZ said... except for the wiring comment on earlier Z's. My early '74 260Z had all of it's smog wiring intigrated into the main harness. This became a major p.i.t.a when it came time to pull out all unused wires. I eventually wound up rewiring everything in front of the fire wall. Not something I'd ever want to do again. The 75 - 78 280's, on the other hand, conveiniently had their engine wiring seperated from the main wiring harness (lights, turn signals, horn, etc...). All the engine wires went back to the computer in the drivers floor area. In fact, the only wires that didn't have a home after I removed the fuel injected L28 was an ignition line and a ground (I think, that was over five years ago). One other feature that is often overlooked, is the fact that the 280z is dimensionally larger than the 240z. There is about 1.2 - 2 inches more space between the framerails on the 280's. This extra space makes things like the radiator and transmission a little easier to install. However, they do come with a few extra pounds. Most of the added weight comes with the large 5 mph bumpers, but there is also additional strucural support that help tip the scales. IMHO I'd recommend a 75-78 280Z for anyone doing a first time, or non-intensive, swap. I've done two 77's, one early '74 and an early '71 and the 77's were by far the easiest. Good luck, and keep us informed. -Andy

I was able to "flog" a proptotype Marauder a few years back. ...felt like an Impala. It had the 4.6 SOHC with an Eaton type Supercharger that they are using on the new lightnings. It was quick, but not fast. Of course, I had to line it up against my Impala and see how the Marauder would compare. I had about a car and a half on the Marauder by 60. Also, the Chevy felt much bigger on the inside. Rumour has it that they are try to put the 32V DOHC Navigator based motor in it. We shall see, they've been talking about this car for years now. -Andy -A.K.A. He who is not afraid to race anyone (except maybe a cop) [ April 25, 2001: Message edited by: Andrew Bayley ]

Davy, Yeah, I was a little skeptical at first when I saw the fuel injection. Especially at the tender age of 19 with no experience. Fortunetly, it was much more simpler than I had imagined. Anyway, The frame clearance is simply the width of the actual frame itself. The cradle that holds both the steering rack and motor mounts bolts to the bottom of the frame. I've compared the '77 280Z crossmember/cradle/what-you-want-to-call-it to the early '74 260Z crossmember and the appeared to be indentical. So I guess I'm just repeating what Ross said, in that the pickup points never changed. -Andy P.S. Get out to the track and show me some time slips!!!

I run a solid frount Diff mount. Everyone said it would be loud, but I can't hear anything over my Holley Blue fuel pump. -Andy

I was going to ask why the engine wasn't set back... It seems that if someone would put this much work and detail into a Z, then the engine would be set back. I guess I'm not old enough to remember the original "Scarab's" so I wouldn't know what the originals were supposed to look like (other than the non-setback engine). Either way, it's a remarkable piece of work. Is the owner of this Z car the same guy that want's to get a third Z car out in Ottawa? If his wife wont let him get the third, I'll be more than happy to take this Primadonna off his hands so he can reduce his inventory by one. Oh well... couldn't hurt to ask -Andy

Frank, There is nothing to worried about with hubcentric type spacers. The biggest thing to keep in mind when using spacers, is that wheel attachment force is based on the shear-strength of the bolt. When a simple spacer is just slid over the bolts, a bending moment is introduced to the bolts because the wheel has the ability to rotate in reference to the head of the bolt. This is the force that will break wheel studs with high horsepower and sticky tires. When an adapter is bolted to the hub, then serperatley bolted to the wheel, no such bending moment exists. This type of adapter is just as strong as any non-spaced wheel to hub connection. I'm actually quite surprised that more people haven't used these type of adapters with Z's already. It only seems natural that this would be the best thing to do with the surplus of inexpensive Wrong-Wheel-Drive offset rims, and the limited availability of high priced Z wheels. I think most people easily get scared away from anything that has the words "spacer" and "wheel" in the same context. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

I remember when I first started college in '94 I saw my first Impala SS. I said to myself: "They finally got that car right. In fact, I'm going to buy one when I graduate!" Unfortunately, The General stopped production in 1996. That didn't stop me however, and ever since July on 1998 (yeah, I was on the five year plan at school) I have been the owner of a '96 black model. Granted, it's not the fastest car out there... but I can haul around myself and four of my buddies and still look (relatively) good while doing it. A lot of people were said to see the SS go, but it all came down to numbers. The bottom line was that GM was selling ONLY the Impala SS and nothing else. Ask yourself when the last time was, that you saw a normal 94 - 96 Caprice? Except for the few remaining police cruisers, there probably hasn't been too many. The SS package was a great idea, but came about 5 years too late. Typical GM launch timing So, it seems that I'm only about 2 seconds off the mark for the fastest SS. Oh well, I'll concentrate on my Z first. After that, I might start playing the Impala a little more (not to say that I haven't already started ) People often forget that these cars have the heart of an F-Body. And even at a bulky 4200 lbs, it's really only about 600 - 700 lbs heavier than it's little brother. Something to ponder. Kevin, Some Lexus 400 was trying to cut me off while merging onto the freeway last week while I was driving the SS. Needless to say, I didn't stand for any of that -Andy [This message has been edited by Andrew Bayley (edited April 17, 2001).]

http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/cgi-bin/i/witeface.jpg ...try this link. Autometer Phantom gauges in a 260Z. -Andy

Sorry, All I've got is green. -Andy

I might have a couple after this weekend. What color were you looking for and how many did you want? -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

Tim, Sorry to hear about that. I was looking forward to a spring cruise down T-graph in your Z. If you need an extra 280Z stub axel, I might have one laying around at my Dad's place you can have. Also, what machine shop did you use (just tell me the intersection, you don't need to say the name online)? Every time I've needed driveline work done, I've gone to "Joint, Clutch and Gear" up on 8 mile in Warren. They have always done good work for me, and more importantly, they are quick and inexpensive. Jim Biondo knows of a place in Troy somewhere that has a super accurate balancing machine, but they charge big bucks. Again, I've never had any problems with J.C.C. before. Let me know if you need any info. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

Steve, I like the "little boy finding a free toy store" comment... so true. My advice is to start by checking out other peoples projects so you know who to ask first when it comes time. Most people are now posting web sites in personal signatures on this board. It seems that everyone's project is unique to the next. If you are into the quarter mile performance of Hybrid Z's, I've compiled a short little page with a few members and their times. Feel free to look around, or even submit your own times if you have some slips. Welcome -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

Scott, I posted a schematic with a very basic description of how this might be possible... but I doubt that I'm much (if any) smarter than you or anyone else on this board. Since my geocities site blows, I'll post the direct link to both my website. Between the two, you should find it somewhere. Good luck and keep us posted. http://www.geocities.com/grannypotts/LEDLights.gif http://grannypotts.freeservers.com/LED.html -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey [This message has been edited by Andrew Bayley (edited April 09, 2001).]

I've been searching around for 4" (inlet pipe size) mufflers for my grand plan. I looked into the Dynomax mufflers, but they had the smallest cases for the straight thru designs in 4" pipe size. Also, I've never been impressed with Dynomax's sound or their designs. In fact, the three inch turbo muffler, I believe, is the exact same as the two and a quarter inch muffler... only with the larger three inch I/O pipes added. Currently, I'm leaning towards the Borla XR-1 16" muffler. It too is a straight thru design and has a slightly larger case than the other 4" mufflers out there. I was also thinking about going with a Flowmaster 4" (they do make them), but I think the sound levels might a tad too much. Also, I like the idea of doing something original that hasn't been done many times before. Besides, I've already got the Flowmaster now... time for something new. I just hope it doesn't sound like poop (my Impala with 2.5" Dynomax's sounds like poop ) -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

Rick, I know alot of the Pro Rally guys run about 25-30 psi of boost with a 9:1 C.R. and run a mix of 50% 93 octane and 50% 110 octane. These guys run ballz to the wall for up to 12 hours and their motor's seem to hold up just fine. Either way, you can just send your engine down here to my place and I'll do all the octane testing you need. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

I hear you Scottie... I L-O-A-T-H-E brake work. While a line lock looks simple and and is relatively cheap, there is alot more than meets the eye. The first, and biggest, concern is the fact that the Datsun was made in Japan. What does this mean? Well, most people who use line locks, use them on your typical American muscle car. Therefor, the manufacturers have catered to this crowd (and why shouldn't they) by making line locks with English thread sizes. It will bolt in just fine on a '69 Camaro, but a few adapters are going to be needed in order to get them to fit on a Z. It obviously can be done, but be prepared to make a few trips to your local parts store searching for those right adapters. Second, the space between the master cyl. and the dist. block is only like 8 inches. Creativity during this part of the installation is very helpful. Finally, I suggest getting a "lock" type push button switch and placing it next to the shifter somewhere. I prefer to have both hands readily available while doing a burnout. Having to hold down a button while warming up the tires was something I didn't want to worry about. However, I must strongly recommend to hook this :lock" type switch up to a 12V ignition switched source. The reason all these line lock manufacturers supply a "momentary" switch is because a line lock should only be on for a dozen seconds or so. This is a very strong solonoid that heats up very quick. If the line lock is energized for too long, the heat from the solonoid de-magnitizes the solonoid and will greatly reduce the holding power of the one way valve. Hope this helps, and good luck in your prusuit. -Andy

Ross (and others), I'm able to get a full 100% throttle 3-4 shift in my 700R4. All I did was install the B&M throttle valve and the strip shift kit. Not sure if it was the shift kit or the throttle valve, but I can shift into fourth at WOT. Also, the trans itself came out of an '87.5 Z28 with a 350 TPI. This might have something to do with it, it's probably very similar to the trans they used in the Corvette that year. If you've ever considered doing a shift kit, the B&M kit is very easy and well documented. The shifts are little stiff for normal street driving, but work very nice with the drag radials. Good luck -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

...or you could just neglect to tighten down your distributor and let the natural retarding of the distributor to create a nice, lousy idle. Sorry, I couldn't resist. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

That's the beauty of surfing on company time... Total download time, 32 seconds I might be able to transfer it to MP3 and upload it somewhere, let me know. -Andy

The Holy war has begun, to Holley or Edlebrock!!! Iim going to second what Mike said and believe that the idle circuits are dumping in excess fuel. I don't believe it would be a problem with the secondaries. If it's dogging off the line, it's more than likely getting choked up with more fuel than it needs. An engine will run a lot better with less gas, than with more. Besides, an engine doesn't really need the secondaries opened, until it's well into it's own power range. Therefore, "lugging" carbs are typically a result of over richness. But then, you did say the plugs looked fine. I don't know? The only other thing I can think of is that, maybe, your carb linkage has slipped and the pedal is no longer fully opening the carb. This happens to me all the time (nobody makes a good holley braket with a TV cable attachment ). Once you get everything figured out, let us know how that air gap works out. It sound good in theory, just haven't heard any street stories yet to back up it's claims. -Andy ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey

Some of these automatic transmissions we are using shift at rather low RPM's. I personally shift out of 1st gear at about 6300 rpm. If I left the shifter in "D", the 1st to 2nd shift would happen around 4500 rpm. This would not be ideal in my situation. Also, shifting myself makes sure I get no surprises when running down the track. -Andy P.S. The only stupid question is the one you don't ask. ------------------ "But I don't sit idly by, I'm planning a big surprise." Andrew's Land of Z and Honey [This message has been edited by Andrew Bayley (edited April 02, 2001).]

Oh man, you guys are getting "old school" on me now! Clutch's behind Auto's were a popular thing for a lot of the pro-stock drag racers before the advent of trans brakes. A couple guys I used to work with still had a few of these setups on some street cars. Work great for +8000 rpm launch's Dave, Check out the painless wiring kit for the 700R4. I believe it was under $100 (four years ago) and it allows lockup in fourth gear. The only thing I would do different is hook up a toggle switch that would enable the converter to lock up in any gear. Basically, there is a solonoid in the trans that tells the converter when to lock up. A 12 volt source is applied to the solonoid, while the ground path has to travel though pressure switches in the valve body. If there is adequate pressure in 2-3-4 gear, the switch closes allowing the current to flow thru the solonoid, thus locking up the converter. The painless wiring kit only uses the fourth gear pressure switch (2 and 3 gear use the same switch). Also, the 12V source is switched through a simple, generic map sensor and brake switch. This way, the converter will only lock up if there is adequate engine vacuum (i.e. engine is not W.O.T.) and the brakes are not applied. I drew a really nice picture explaining this, but my computer really blows and it just crashed as I was trying to save it. Sorry, -Andy