Oddmanout84

Here's an article someone sent to me. Truly amazing stuff here. http://www.badassoftheweek.com/akaiwa.html

Very nice. I had almost given up on that sump, since I measured and found out the sump was way too long. For some reason, I had never thought about modifying the sump itself that way... Biggest worry now is that I lined the tank with POR-15 a year ago, now its probably all going to have to come off...

Glad you like it! Hopefully it will help more to come.

I think it looks pretty nice. I do share the worries of possible boost creep issues though. If I had two of the 7 bolt blockoff flanges instead of the one I have, I might have tried this.

You need to press in those bushing as TIGHT as possible. I used a vice. If I remember correctly though, I might have shaved a tiny tiny amount with sandpaper off the urethane part. It should still fit tightly though, don't overdo it.

That is interesting, Tony. I had been afraid before to buy one of those from Autozone for the fear of getting the wrong thing. MSA seems to be in opposite land in that respect, because their turbo/auto pumps are 3 TIMES as expensive as the standards on their site ($224!!!!!) I'll probably end up using the aftermarket turbo/auto pump on the far right of the pictures, since its still in immaculate condition. Still deciding if I'm going to install the Don Potter kit when I build the motor or after I break it in.

Soak it in carb cleaner for a day or two, then wash it out. Autozone sells gallon buckets of the stuff, with a nifty drop basket inside so you don't have to dig your parts out from the bottom of the can with your hands.

I read both of those a while back. Simply amazing stuff. I can never hope to create something like what Monzter did, and didn't trust my fab skills enough to do something similar to RTz's manifold. That's why I picked up the RB26 intake plenum, so all I had to worry about are the runners and flange. When I get all the pieces in order, I'll have to take a trip down to my Uncle's place, since he has a TIG.

I've dealt with three L28 engine teardowns over the past couple years, so I have three oil pumps that I've removed from them. In addition, shortly after I bought my Z in California years ago I purchased a "high pressure performance oil pump" upgrade from MSA in order to make sure the car was ready to drive across the states to CT. However when I used the on base auto shop I decided I was too chicken to try installing it. Maybe a good thing. That engine had a lot of grit in it when pulled (and half of a 3M sanding disc from god knows where). Years later and with a bit more experience on the car, I swapped this MSA pump onto the turbo motor Airjockie sold me in order to freshen it up a bit. Less than a year from then, my motor broke down. After inspecting it, my grinded thrust bearing told me that I *might* have been running low on oil pressure, or maybe the grade I used was too thin. So I read my Datsun books and various sources on the internet and found that there were three (?) different oil pumps? The turbo automatic received the highest volume pump, since it had the addition of a turbocharger AND an oil cooler to deal with. Information was a bit spotty and some of it contradictory on the other pumps so I decided before I risk another motor I should at the very least inspect all the pumps I had. Also, while it is "known" that the H4 pump is the OEM high volume pump, the documentation on the aftermarket (typical auto parts supplier brand) is pretty scarce. Usually, the pump housing has a cast number in it which denotes which version it is. However Nissan uses one lettering system and all the aftermarket versions (the ones you're likely to get through a parts supplier) use a completely different one. In essence, I wanted to make sure that there was a little more information available for anyone who has one of these brand pumps, so there was less wondering if the pump they just bought at autozone was just a re badged "???" pump or a wrong part. Here are my findings. All pumps and internal components will stay in THIS order, left to right, for all following photos. Besides external markings and dirtiness, all pumps appear to have the same housing dimensions. Now we start to see differences. ’78 L28 pump housing as pulled from my original engine. L28ET pump pulled from my turbo swap engine MSA “High performance oil pumpâ€, made by Paraut. As you can see, the bottom of the casing has different markings than the other K1-marked pump in the next picture. The yellow box shown earlier is what it came in, and as labeled states that it is actually a 280zx turbo (Manual trans) replacement pump (tricky). The other K1 pump, pulled from the other ’81 280zx Turbo engine I have. I don't know who manufactured it, but I assume its another Paraut. These are the sleeves in which the rotors slide into and turn with in order to pump the oil. The only one visibly different is the one on the far left, which is from the ’78 L28. It is about a couple mm shorter. The housing is machined less to fit this accordingly. Also, the aftermarket pumps have additional alignment markings. I measured the inside of each one, and the two aftermarket parts on the right are a few thousandths of an inch wider than the Nissan pumps. Pump rotors. Same differences in length, but also the Nissan rotors are pinned to their shafts, instead of just pressed like the aftermarkets. Pressure relief valve “pistonsâ€. The two aftermarket pistons have slightly longer “nipplesâ€, I’m guessing for increased pressure. Pressure relief springs. Note the one on the far right is the longest. Also, both aftermarket springs seemed noticeably stiffer. That’s about it for the differences noted, but here is an extra. Also, it appears that the KA24E (SOHC) engine from the 240sx uses the same pump as the L28ET Automatic. I haven't gotten my hands on one though. D.L. Potter adjustable high pressure relief valve springs and shims. You add/subtract shims from the pressure relief plug on the bottom to change oil pressure. I displayed the two springs (meant to be used in tandem one inside the other) next to the ’78 L28 H 28 spring. They’re a lot shorter, and stiffer. I got the kit from ebay for $10. Unfortunately, it looks like they’re no longer available, unless you find them elsewhere. Mr. Potter passed away from what I gathered… That’s about all the information I have. I essentially wrote this because I couldn’t find comprehensive enough information anywhere else. Especially not the kind with pretty pictures! So I made my own. Feel free to add in anything you have. You can also donate me a Kameari/Tomei pump if you’re feeling generous. I’m curious to see what differences they have inside. Links: Here is a link I found with someone doing an inspection similar to what I did, only he is comparing two original Nissan pumps: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/79476-high-flow-oil-pump/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?showtopic=61680 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/88729-truth-on-l6-oil-pumps/

I'm still curious as to if anyone has tried this on an L6, flat top piston or otherwise.

Nothing is "wrong" with them, I just would have liked to see more variety in the choice of swaps, rather than two V8's with relatively minor differences.

Dude, he designed the Munster Coach. TONS of high class taste there! I also find humor in the fact that your avatar is Speed Racer. A bunch of the comments during that show sucked. I thought the challenging team did a decent job, though I noticed ripples in the paint around the rear column air vents they blocked off. Not exactly to my taste, but at least they made an attempt to make a "clean" car. While ambitious, the home team car was nothing more than a Mach 5 clone/abortion. The body lines didn't even match up at the doors. The comments on the handling baffled me, since I saw NO suspension work on either car whatsoever. if anything, they reduced structural integrity by tearing the roof off. Only having V8's as a choice for the engine swaps was salt in the wound, but I guess I shouldn't expect different from a murrican car show. Back to BBC and Top Gear...

The reason for my "almost" note.

You will always spend more money on an NA engine to make numbers comparable to a forced induction motor of the same type. Please enlighten me on the advantages besides less parts and points of failure in an NA.

This is my first time even finding out about this show since I normally avoid reality shows like the plague. So far one of the cars has ambitious design, but it looks like both teams have their heads up their asses.

There's no replacement for displacement (almost), but you have to ask yourself if the extra .3L is really worth the disproportionate amount of money it takes to get there. Also, block selection is a factor.

Its not needed, at all. I used the NA transmission for a while to great effect, no problems. Also keep in mind that you have a lot more options besides the stock 5 speed (240sx trans, Z31/32 trans, etc). All the answers are here if you search more.

You might be able to find some on Yahoo JP...

You should be able to weld a steel AN fitting on the end of one of the banjos. I'm pretty sure the banjos are steel.

From what I've read now, its a real hit or miss affair. I got my flares from MSA and they conform perfectly to the body lines. Maybe I got one of the ones made from Classic Datsun molds? That's a pretty crummy story though... makes me upset that I didn't know at the time to purchase them at Classic Datsun in the first place.

Well, my front opening (which will be further ducted as soon as I finish the prototype) is going to be covered by some aluminium grill mesh I've had laying around for the last 10 years. So my oil cooler is safe until the car ingests a medium sized mammal on the freeway.

I dunno, they came with the motor I bought. Lines are about 9/16" ID, the same size as -10AN hose. The fittings (other than the banjos) were kinda weird, and they're also going the way of my old oil cooler. Replacing them with braided stainless lines of the same size. As explained recently on another thread, the thread size for where the banjo fittings bolted up to on the adapter should be M18x1.5. I'll be doing that as opposed to reusing the old banjo fittings. Lance, love the Bosozoku style there. That's one way to spend an extra $50, lol!

I'm sure there's plenty of info on this site. But why does it have to be on here? Just search, there IS a reason for the existence of things like Google. its not like what you would be doing is ANY different than mounting any other fiberglass bodykit that isn't bolted in.

... .... M18x1.5 to -10 AN adapters. -10 AN is 9/16" inner diameter which could have easily been found by looking at the Summit/JEGS catalog or website.

Most people just put them right in front of the rad/intercooler. This is my old setup: I forget what the brackets I used were originally for, but they came from a 280/280zx. There's mounted to a piece of steel bar stock that I riveted to the lower portion of the radiator support, which I had used to mount the bottom of my intercooler to. Not the best way to do things, but it worked for the time. Tomorrow my low profile oil cooler is coming in the mail, and will go in a different location. I'll be modifying the steel bar so that it will still support the intercooler, but the oil cooler will sit in a "V" orientation to it. Hard to explain without showing, but it should be a much better setup.