Roostmonkey

If your still blowing thru,pulse the trigger on for a second and watch the puddle cool thru your helmet.Just as the orange color leaves the weld spot hit the trigger again. This will deposit a small amount of weld and help not to blow thru.

Wire speed too slow and too much amperage.This causes the arc to run up the wire.The home type mig guns can be a challenge to set right and some are so bad getting a decent weld is next to impossible.

Ive got a spare z31 ecu your welcome to try.If it works I'll sell it cheap.Where around Boston are you?I work in Acton and live In Pepperell.

I'll bring them in on tues.Call me when the springs are off.

Hey Pete,whats a rooTSmonkey?

Thanks John...

Pallnet's right there are drain holes at each web,yours must have been clogged.I'm in the middle doing this to my intake right now.I used a plasma cutter to remove the bulk the webbing and a dynafile to smooth everything out.everything has been removed from the top of the plenum and welded(except the brake booster and boost guage holes) and polished to a mirror finish.The other needed holes have been relocated to the side to keep it clear on top.I still need to match port everything and open it up for a 60mm TB.I'm making a polised s/s fuel rail to match the I/C plumbing and powder coat the valve cover.Should look and run preety sweet.

How about a shock recemendation????????

Anyone here using these with their camber plates?I'm installing a set and they say I need to machine the shock shaft down to fit the spherical bearing.I'm ok with that but I was wondering if there was a certain shock should be using.I havent had much luck reaching them by phone so here i am.

J.C Whitney still has them.Its not in there catalog but I called them a few monthes ago and was told they're available.They were under $400.00

J.C Whitney still has them.Its not in there catalog but I called them a few monthes ago and was told they're available.They were under $400.00

I do have some pic's but I need to find them.I'm off on a 4 day fishing trip so I'll post them next week.

I have made a few sets of G-nose hinges and have a set installed on a club members car.I based them on the factory units that are unbavailable now.If any of you were at the convention this year, you may have seen them on the charcoal grey 240 that was there.

I did 20 laps in a viper at a skip barber class and they are FAST.AX isnt really a good ground for comparison.But it makes for great bench racing.

For Panasports call chuck at KSPEED...better price,no BS and I had my 16x7's in less than a week.Also included lug nut's.

I forgot to mention...these are turbo motors.

I just did this swap and its running like crap.Is there anything else that I need to do to make this swap complete.I think its running lean and when I adjust the AFM to richen it up,Its way too fat at idle.any suggestions?

False alarm,I'm gonna swap to an 82-83 dist instead.

Help..this part is no longer available and I'm down without it.Its the toothed ring behind the harmonic balancer that gives a signal to the crank senser.It only came on the 81 motor.Convention is next week and I'm freaking out.

Call Paul at Avalon Racing in Merrimac/Manchester NH. he will set you up.You can do a search or look in Sport-Z mag.Z's are his specialty.Also,are you coming to the convention next week?Go to zccne.addr.com for info.

TIG= tungsten,inert,gas.you use a small electic torch in one hand and feed wire into the molten puddle with the other hand.Mig welding feeds the wire mechaniclly right thru the torch.Tig offers a much more controlable weld.You use a foot pedal to regulate the amperage and only add as much wire as you want...with mig, you set the amperage and wire feed speed and pull the trigger and what you had set is what you get

Just a suggestion, take it to a weld shop not a muffler shop. No dis for the muffler guys but typically they're welding quality is low. they will most likley use a mig welder and they're used to gobbing it on because 99 % of their work goes unseen. Aweld shop will tig weld the joints and make it look pretty. I realize my muffler shop comments are gross generalizations and I know there are exceptions but ....

They're going for the old bi-wing effect.

If your going to do this, make sure that your original unit fits correctly.I believe that the 2 pc nose needs to be extended aprox 1/2" between the tip of the nose and the edge that meets the hood.It would suck to perpetuate a bad fit.

what do you guys reccomend for an aggressive street set-up.Ive got coilovers with 375 and 350lb springs but I think those rates are gonna be too stiff for a somewhat comfortable ride.I do some AX'ing so I want a firm ride but I dont want to wear a kidney belt every time I drive . Thanks