Roostmonkey

theres no options for spring changes.At least they dont mention any alternates on their website. I'll run it tomorrow and see what I get.

I just recieved my tial bov and I dont see any adjustment provisions.Most likely doesnt require any adjustments but the Turbo-X unit I'm replacing, did.Does anyone know if this is the case? Ive searched Garrett's site and theres no info.I'll get the flange welded on tomorrow and try it out after work.Its a beautiful piece of work, almost too pretty to put on a motor.

the big benefit of the auto darkening lids is when your in a tight spot and theres no room to flip it up or if you need to hold the pc your welding in place to tack it. On the bench I'll take a flip lid any day.

Thanks guys. In the cab it goes.

I just finished the same brake kit and have heard mixed opinions as to where the proportioning valve should be mounted. Ive heard that these fronts will over power anything in the rear so install it in the fronts line to allow more bias to the rear.Ive seen them installed inside the cab against the tunnel indicating the rears are proportioned.Ive heard you both dont and do have to gut the stock valve.If there is a definative answer to these mixed opinions, please advise.

Ive been having the same problem with a turboX BOV. I know its a low end unit so it didnt surprise me too much.I have a Tial BOV on order to replace it. Does anyone have any experiences with this BOV?

Thanks Dave...I just had mine turned and they were only out .oo2 +- but it most likely would have caused a pulse in the pedal. Top quality parts, cant wait to try them out.

The jack plates are so you can get one side of the car up at once.Just makes it easyer if your swapping on some race tires. The added benefit is that you also get a solid jacking location that can be reached without having to lay on the ground to find it.

I'm running 225/50/16's on the same Panasports and I had to roll the inner lips to keep from rubbing. I'm lowered approx 2" also.

Those Photo's were on the website of the company I bought my T04e from. It made it look as tho they were a huge turbo supplier. Turns out it was just a single guy with a website.

Nice fit and welds. everthing looks as tho it will flow really well. It looks impressive but imagine the heat that things gonna throw.

the tank is a pair of stamped shells that have flanges around the edges.The flanges were then mechanicly welded together while they lay flat against each other.You may be able to cut the welded portion of the flanges off and pop the two sections apart leaving enough of the flanges intact to re-weld them back together. Take all the usual precausions before you do ANY cutting. Also I would wait until its back together before adding the sealer.

helix Its the stock 81 cam...all internals are stock. bastaad...I was talking about your motor. Just as an example, but ive seen numbers very similar in other cars.

My dyno doesnt seem tp be consistant with what your saying

I'm just curious about the relationship between hp and torque. I see guys with like 230 hp and over 300ft/lbs. My car dynoed at 325hp and 320ft/lbs and I'm wondering what variables allow mine to be nearly equal (hp/ftlb's) while others can vary so much.Also, I got my #'s at 13 psi, is it safe to say that things will remain somewhat equal if I bring it up to say 16 psi?

The Baddog parts are 12 ga coldrolled steel

From what I was told, My car was shooting some nice flames at the NY convention. It doesnt make any noise so I never knew it happend. You may have seen the pics on the convention cd. Green 240 w/ panasports and aero kit.

Yes they all came with a return line. I installed my sump inside the tank. I cut a 4"x4" hole around the drain, rolled up a 3" diameter cylinder x 3-4" tall with 2, 1/2" tubes running into the bottom/side of the cylinder to allow fuel into the sump but restrict its flow back out and welded it to the inside of the pc I cut out.The cylinder was positioned so that the pick-up and return were down inside it when I re-welded the 4"x4" pc back into the tank.

For mere comparison, witha t3/t04e at 13 psi, 450cc injectors and all the other std upgrades, I put down 326 whp on a Dynapack. You have more hp available, my guess would be your ecu is holding it back.

I'm no painter but rustoleum does not soung like a good idea for a car. I'd go to a decent auto parts supply house (not pep boys autozone etc...) and ask what they recomend. Also, I would sand the rattle can paint off and put a better base down ( better primer ).Nows not the time to cut corners.

I would trace your pattern onto the ss and then cut to the outside of your template.then use a belt sander or clamp a disc sander in a vise and sand to your template;s line.You will have to sand the edges anyway and you lesson the risk of cutting inside your templates lines.This also allows you to use a tool that may not be very accurate or one that slightly distorts the edge.

I wish....no it won the 1st gen modified class.

Heres another green Z for those who apreciate them.This pic was taken on the Cherahola Skyway by The Tail of the Dragon last may.Its a 70 with an 81 turbo motor that just dynoed at 326 rwhp and 318 lbs torque.These numbers came at only 13 psi. Pete Sanders (z-ya) did all the tuning and installed the Wolf 3d system. All the usual...450cc injectors,60mm TB,3" mandrel s/s exhaust w/ glaspack,aeromotive FPR,T3/T04e,grainger bc,Wolf 3d,lg IC with 2.5" plumbing etc...78 5 spd,fidanza FW,3.90 LSD,big sway bars,coilovers,konis,Sparco Torinos,S/S rollbar and strut braces.Driven every day the sun shines. 32

Go to zccne.org (z car club of new england) and check out our club race car.We are using a Super trapp with approx 6 disc's +-. With M/S, header, 60mm TB and other misc parts, we dynoed at 165 rwhp.

Ive got the Sparco Torinos and they fit me (5'-6" 200lbs of raw beafcake)j/k.For a taller driver wearing a helmet they would want to be dropped.I'm on the stock brackets still.