cygnusx1

$10 says I go home tonight and slip a piece of paper in the hatch seal to check it! I will try the grease trick also.

I hate front wheel drive...can't stand it. Maybe I'm ol skool but to me it's either rear wheel, or all wheel drive. Front wheels are for steering. By the way that is a very nice Honda. Real good craftsmanship in that machine.

I removed my rear hatch finisher panel and put a heavy clear plastic sheet "glued" in place with weatherstrip sealer. I then put the finisher panel back on. I replaced all the rear tail light gaskets. I got under the car and the insides of the rear quarter panels do have some holes in them. I plugged any I could find. There was also a rubber plug inside the lower driver side quarter that I removed and reinstalled with sealer. With the windows shut, I get NO fumes. If I open the windows, I get fumes. With the fan set to 3, and the windows half open, I can manage to keep enough fresh air coming in so I don't smell fumes. With only one window open, the fumes are much worse. I don't think that there is a perfect solution. Somehow, the cabin needs to be pressurized so that the fumes don't come in. Maybe a scoop on the valence in front of the windshield. I did have a CO2 meter in the car with me once and I measured some pretty high levels with both windows wide open. Especially when coasting downhill. I don't remember the numbers off hand. You think Nissan will fix this under warranty or recall? LOL

I think he owes you a 512 Rossa!

I never speed or outrun anyone. I stop at stop signs and red lights, and always use my blinkers. I know all the rules of the road and obey every single one of them religiously. If I ever mentioned anything here about speeding or doing anything remotely illegal, I was lying. My Z does 0-55mph in 4seconds. Zhad, I have a 76Z in BMW Arctic Silver and an WRB '02WRX. Good choice of cars Zhad!

http://www.bullshitjob.com/officespace/moreflair.wav Sorry, couldn't pass up the opportunity.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7974670619&category=33701 They are cheap so I wouldn't expect too much out of them but since I only do 2-3K miles per year in the Z...

Comeon, everyone knows that 280 of anything is better than 240 of the same anything

Wow that solves the "where to get laid" dilemma that haunts us two-seater car drivers! I like it.

This is a part available for the 240SX from Tuner Transformation. http://www.tunertransformation.com Anyone think this idea would be able to be applied to an S30? It looks like a strategic place for bracing the front end; linking the front "wings" to the door hinge sill/firewall edge.

Today's rally Z's: http://www.tunertransformation.com/special.asp http://www.targanewfoundland.com

You've all missed the mark! Everyone knows that it's all about the quantity of stickers on the car! Thread Ressurection...lol

Just an update on Ford Capri Viton Seals. I have been running them in my 120K mile turbo Z motor at 14psi boost and they are working fine. My vacuum readings are good and high; about 19-20 at idle. I have about 2000 miles on them now.

Bump.

Hey Bast! I think you can delete the "Sorta useless post...." part now! Great discussion.

Maybe I'm missing something but a boost controller whether it's a grainger or electronic, does not care that you bolted on a downpipe or even run without one. It should maintain a setpoint no matter what (aside from spike). The RATE of boost climb relative to RPM and TIME may change but peak boost should always be limited by the controller and wastegate. No?

The hood ornament that isn't just an ornament!

I went nuts yesterday and went on a shopping spree for PC racing sims. I ordered, Richard Burns Rally, Grand Prix Legends, and GTR FIA Racing. I tried all three demos breifly last night and I was extremely impressed with all of them. The GTR FIA graphics, and sounds are AMAZING. I can't wait to hook up my force feedback wheel and pedals that have been collecting dust ever since I started building the turbo Z. I was a big proponent of Live for Speed but I want to try some of these other sims as there are lots of tracks and cars available to download. I really need to learn some of these tracks so when I finally get my real Z out there, I at least have some knowledge of the layouts. Any feedback on these sims?

I have built two .21 RC allwheeldrive offroad buggys. When it's rich, it fires on every other cycle (lower pitch) get it so that it switches over into the firing on every cycle (higher pitch). Take it for a good hard run and then spit on the head or use a drop of water. The water should boil off the head slowly. It should sizzle off gently in about 3-4 seconds. If it's too lean, the water will sizzle violently. Smoke is also a good indicator as stated above.

Lock open his wastegate actuator and let him run el-cheapo gas until he makes a financial recovery.

Thanks for the photos. I did notice that Nissan didn't run the floor rails all the way back to meet the rear frame box. I wonder why they chose not to connect them. It certainly creats a "soft spot" in the floor structure of the car. I guess they figured that the structure of the trans tunnel, the roof, and the rockers, would make up for it. Based on my reading here, it looks like I will triangulate the front strut bar with the firewall, and try to connect the floor pan rails with the rear frame near the forward, rear control arm bushings. I will possibly also try to cross-tie the left and right floor frame rails near their ends. I am doing this for suspension stability, and ultimately, more stable dynamic handling.

Actually, on the way home from work today, I was driving the Z and I was thinking that the roll cage would be really close to my head. Maybe I really only need a rear bar that ties the rear deck and towers into the floor pan rails and possibly a cross-connector between the floor-pan frame rails.

Do you guys think that the MSA roll cage, or any cage with this similar design will significantly stiffen the chassis on my 280Z? I am thinking about handling, tuning, and chassis stiffening lately and I also like the added safety aspect of a cage. I would want removable door bars for around town but that is not really part of the question. http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PIC08

If you are going to build a drifter, I think that the earlier 240SX's are pretty desired. Parts are also pretty easy to get and they look cool too. Good luck. The hard work should pay off.

I am glad you didn't get a defective caliper. It was probably just a tighter o-ring on one side due to tolerance issues. That won't be an issue because the drag from the oring/seal is negligable compared to the 1200psi of pressure from the fluids during braking. Just make sure that the pads don't hang tight against the rotor when you lift off the brake. I bought the 12.2" kit from AZ. I love it. I have been hammering on it for about a month now and it is phenominal. Cold, it exhibits a slightly high pedal pressure but once it is warmed up just a little, it is amazing. I have "street" pads. The pedal remains firm and the modulation is great. The cockpit proportioning valve is nice too. I did have to turn the front rotors even though they were new. Dave explained that the warp comes from tolerance stack-up during assembly. I have not had it out on the track yet but I can't imagine needing more...at least with my current engine setup. Nothing builds confidence like GOOD brakes.