cygnusx1

I think the stock 280ZX Turbo Motor does have a small recirc-valve AND a large pop-off valve. Both are threaded into the intake manifold. The "blow-off" valve is at the end of that little 1/2" hose that comes off the j-pipe and feeds into the intake manifold through that check valve. When I went with an I/C, 14psi, and large TurboXS recirc valve, I glued a dime on top of the stock recirc-valve so that idle would drop faster in between shifts. The stock recir-valve should work for 10psi with the stock turbo. Your safest bet is never to let off the gas pedal!

Yessir it's all fun and games till the bastards come down my road and dump 1" of salt for 1/4" of snow! Grrrrrrrrrrrrr. My road looks like the salt flats! The Z is officially quarantined in the shed until either a HEAVY rainstorm, or Springtime.

Are you going to use that beast to test the stability of your silicone jobs? Tax write off.

I completely understand vapor pressure is vapor pressure. That value changes with temperature. The volume of vapor that rushes out of the cap is a function of the volume of vapor in the tank. Now, I have never had the tank out of the car so I have no idea how many inlet or outlet ports there are on the tank. I do know that if I am building pressure in the tank, there are no paths that lead to atmosphere. Is that a function of a valve somewhere, a check valve, a clogged line, or is it normal to have a sealed system?

God I love Autumn in NY!! You guys ever driven a Turbo Z in 35 degree air? Holy sh#t it's an animal! Roll-ons in second gear from 35mph will set you sideways! Goose Bumps are NOT from the weather.

I had it in fourth gear (im a dumass) and I live in the hills. My driveway is very steep. The turbo motor has low compression and it has high mileage.

My wife wouldnt bring me a pen and paper!

I have the Arizona Race Brakes front and rear disk conversion with the line lock for the rear brakes; a "replacement" for the lack of handbrake in the kit. Last Saturday I took a spin in the Z and then came home and parked it in my driveway nose to the garage door. I went inside and about two hours later I hear commotion outside on my street. There are cars stopped, people walking around and traffic honking. I looked out and figured there was an accident. Then I saw a hot chick get out of one of the cars and start walking to my front door. I opened the door and my heart jumped about six feet over my head! My Z was sitting on the double yellow line of a two lane rural road blocking traffic in both directions. Apparently the line-lock bled pressure and even though the car was in gear, it slowly rolled back out of my driveway and into the street. I am SOOOOOO lucky it didn't get hit and nobody got hurt. I will NEVER EVER EVER EVER trust a line lock again. Counting my blessings still. A week later.

Nice job and congrats for taking the time to complete a project. I have found that as much as poverty comes into play, people just lose the will to finish and you see half finished cars on front lawns. As a temporary solution to a possible detonation, you may consider a home made water injection system. You obviously have the skills to fabricate one and it is a cheap way to add insurance while running higher boost and no IC. Just ask Gray Zee....http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105547 I was a poor kid too...it took me 15 years to get my Z as it is now.

Do we get to vote someone off the island, fire them, or sacrifice them to the gods? Someone watches too much "reality"(yeah right) TV. EDIT: I'm sorry, my sense of humor is sometimes a bit off if not non-existent so let me pay my dues. Clunking in the rear is usually a loose diff mount, worn u-joint, or too much backlash in the gears. Thanks, I feel better now that I contributed some info. Seriously. There are VERY FEW people on this board that are not helpful. Even people that only ask questions are helpful. They make me think.

Not defending or praising here. I don't know Alex but he built me a hybrid TO4B and shipped it to me in a timely manner with good communication and a fair price. That's just my experience. We handled it all over instant messenger. His username on IM was boostmyride. He struck me as a very busy guy going through many life changes as I recall.

This is a perfect candidate for a V8 swap or turbo. Think of the power to weight ratio! http://www.guru3d.com/newsitem.php?id=3210

The DMV never gets anything right. They show a picture of my mother-in-law on my license.

Cats are freakin' crazy. They may not be as threatening as big dogs but they can be NUTS! When they go ballistic, you DO NOT want to be near them. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1299/funny_cats/ Sorry about the theft...maybe this video will cheer you up. I had three bikes and one car stolen from me...I grew up in the Bronx.

Ummm..does Leno have a Z?

I did not pull the shafts out of the car. I bought them used but they were original, unrebuilt, 81-83 Turbo ZX shafts. I think that cardone must have given you an aftermarket, generic, shaft that fits other cars including the ZX...but not a modded Z I would see if I could return it, get some used originals. Even the originals go in tight, but they go in. You need to drop the inner ctrl arm and swing the stub axle in and out to get them in easy. It's not difficult.

The video works now. v80z, the shafts definately went in tight but they fit in my case with. I replied with details over in your other thread about the shaft lengths.

Whatever way you do it, don't test it downhill! Here is a photo showing the location of my Prop. Valve and line-lock (parking brake) in the ashtray. http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/Cygnusx1-interior.jpg

Globe valve. Yes and no. A globe valve would reduce pressure ONLY if there was flow. Once the flow stops (the pads reach the end of their travel) the globe valve does nothing. This would be more akin to a METERING valve or a restrictor. I think that a brake proportioning valveis more or less like an air pressure regulator on a compressor. Those regulate PRESSURE whether or not there is flow through them unlike a normal flow control valve. I have never had one of those apart to understand how they work nor have I taken apart a proportioning valve so it is difficult to grasp how they work.

I do not totally understand HOW a proportioning valve works. So here is my mental scratch pad. There are only two parameters that can possibly be controlled. 1) Pressure 2) Flow. I don't think that an adjustable proportioning valve controls flow or it would be called a metering valve. Assuming the adjustable proportioning valve can adjust pressure delivered past it, it can only cut back pressure. It can never increase pressure. Pressure Control: It could have a "cracking" pressure at which it would allow NO passage until it's "cracking" pressure was reached or it could simply take one pressure on the high side and deliver a differential pressure to the low side in a linear or curved relationship. Let's say you hit the brake pedal and you go from 0 to 1000psi in the front brake circuit in 1 second. Proportioning valve is set to deliver always 70% of front pressure. Assume the master cylinder creates the same pressure and flow for the rear. Rear circuit possibilities with Prop. valve: A. The rear circuit goes from 0 to 700psi in 1 second. (pure pressure control) B. The rear circuit goes from 0 to 700psi in 3 seconds. (pressure and flow ctrl) C. The rear circuit goes from 0 to 1000psi in 6 seconds. (pure flow ctrl) I don't know which is correct but I think A. IF A is correct, then, two proportioning valves in series would simply step down the pressure through each valve. MASTER-->(1000psi) --> STOCK VALVE-->(900psi)-->ADJ. VALVE-->700psi By removing the STOCK VALVE you are only changing the range of operation of the ADJ. VALVE Also, the speed of the vehicle does not effect the mechanics of the brake system...at least in these cars.

Yes I can totally agree with the unpredictable and nasty things because the pressure can "inchworm" in between the two valves. However, in the case of the AZ kit, and Dave's experience with it, on a 280Z, it seems to work well. I have tracked it and street abused it with no trouble. I get excellent brake control fore and aft with the second valve in the ashtray. I use a ZX master cylinder, 15/16" bore I believe.

I ran my rear brake line through the firewall and under the center console. I removed the ashtray and put the proportioning valve in the ashtray-well of the trans tunnel. Then I drilled a hole in the ashtray-well and ran the brake line back under the car to the rear splitter. Here it is during the installation: http://www.280zt.com/extimages/p_P4030096.jpg With the Arizona/Wilwood Big Brake Kit, Dave recommended leaving the stock prop. valve intact in the brake circuit and to just add the adjustable one donwstream in the rear line. It works great this way. The stock prop valve sends too much pressure to the rear brakes when you use discs in the back. The adjustable one allows you cut-back the rear bias.

here ya go. http://www.jimcookracing.com/catalog/page25.html

To clarify my setup. R200 - Early ZXT original Axles, left and right - my bolt-in adapters - 76 280Z companion flanges - 1976 280Z chassis and suspension.

Actually streetfire.net, the host, seems to be having some trouble with their system. I will see if I can get an update from them.